Capacitor replacement-Carrier A/C unit

[Banjorear]

OK, I'm thinking of being pro-active and replace the capacitor on our Carrier unit that is just about 10 years old. I was at my local jobber and they had a product that was a "universal fit" capacitor. I forget who made it.

Is this something that needs to be specific to the unit or just fit the specs? Is there way for someone not in the HVAC trades to quickly figure out which capacitor I need?

Also, when discharging the old capacitor, is it just laying a screw driver over the terminals or is there another trick?

Thanks,

Tim

 

[Brian_WK]

OK, I'm thinking of being pro-active and replace the capacitor on our Carrier unit that is just about 10 years old. I was at my local jobber and they had a product that was a "universal fit" capacitor. I forget who made it.

Is this something that needs to be specific to the unit or just fit the specs? Is there way for someone not in the HVAC trades to quickly figure out which capacitor I need?

Also, when discharging the old capacitor, is it just laying a screw driver over the terminals or is there another trick?

Thanks,

Tim

Universal fit you are going to overpay and there is a chance that it will not match what you need for uF (micro farads)

To figure out what you need power the unit down and take off the side panel. No need to short the terminals on a run capacitor the fan and compressor windings of the motor will discharge it when the power is off. Remove the capacitor from the bracket and read what the uF is on the capacitor if there are 3 terminals on the top it will be a dual capacitor and will have 2 ratings. Make sure to get one with the voltage rating equal or higher then what is indicated on the original.

If you are picking one up put the new in and keep the old for a backup.

Brian

 

[Davefr]

The capacitor must be > or = to the voltage rating of the original and must be within + or - 10% of the capacitance. You get that from the schematic, parts list or the value stamped on the old cap. (assuming it's the original).

Is the universal cap a Turbo Cap? If so use it. It's made in the USA and far superior to the **** caps from Mexico/China. You jumper the cap to the value you need. They are a little expensive but worth it IMHO.

 

[Banjorear]

The capacitor must be > or = to the voltage rating of the original and must be within + or - 10% of the capacitance. You get that from the schematic, parts list or the value stamped on the old cap. (assuming it's the original).

Is the universal cap a Turbo Cap? If so use it. It's made in the USA and far superior to the **** caps from Mexico/China. You jumper the cap to the value you need. They are a little expensive but worth it IMHO.

Yes, that's it. I also liked the fact that they are made in the USA.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Might as well toss a hard start kit on it at the same time...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SUPCO-12...gclid=CNvA1qGh5M0CFQckhgodb2kGtw&gclsrc=aw.ds

Tommy

 

[Banjorear]

Might as well toss a hard start kit on it at the same time...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SUPCO-12...gclid=CNvA1qGh5M0CFQckhgodb2kGtw&gclsrc=aw.ds

Tommy

Curious, why?

 

[crabjoe]

Curious, why?

 

[Git]

Is there way for someone not in the HVAC trades to quickly figure out which capacitor I need?

Read the sticker!

It should have a model number or something you can search for. Also, your looking for something like "55uf"

I found exact replacements for both my capacitors on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVTIS2I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[dclassical]

I discharge mine by putting my meter on Low-Z and checking voltage across the terminals (common/herm and common/fan). This way I know exactly where I stand and it does not take that long to do it.

I took this habit working on big capacitors inside TVs and monitors where using a screwdriver blade would not be practical.

Why change it though? Why not buy a replacement (save uF values and at least the same voltage as people mentioned) to have on hand.

I am lucky my two (different) A/C units use the same contactor and caps.

 

[Brian_WK]

Might as well toss a hard start kit on it at the same time...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SUPCO-12...gclid=CNvA1qGh5M0CFQckhgodb2kGtw&gclsrc=aw.ds

Tommy

Tommy I normally agree with you but I see hard starts as a last ditch effort to get a compressor running. With Digital thermostats providing a time delay and equalizing orifices/expansion valves that allow the pressures to equalize in the system. The starting torque just isn't needed. Throwing on a catch (mostly) all size hard start kit that isn't designed for the the size of the compressor with questionable components (I have had more then one fail catastrophically). They just add complexity to the system. True if the manufactures weren't so cheap they would put a start relay and cap in there but it would only be needed for those 1% of the time situations or once the unit is aged and or abused.

Brian

 

[Brian_WK]

I discharge mine by putting my meter on Low-Z and checking voltage across the terminals (common/herm and common/fan). This way I know exactly where I stand and it does not take that long to do it.

I took this habit working on big capacitors inside TVs and monitors where using a screwdriver blade would not be practical.

These are nasty compared to A/C unit capacitors!

Why change it though? Why not buy a replacement (save uF values and at least the same voltage as people mentioned) to have on hand.

Thats like buying a new battery for your car and keeping the new one in your trunk until your car won't start. Might as well put the new one in and then have the old for a spare. Because you know the old one is gonna give out on the hottest day of the year when your gone and when you walk in the door it will be 130F inside.

 

[Davefr]

Thats like buying a new battery for your car and keeping the new one in your trunk until your car won't start. Might as well put the new one in and then have the old for a spare. Because you know the old one is gonna give out on the hottest day of the year when your gone and when you walk in the door it will be 130F inside.

I agree. In addition I don't think it's good for the compressor to be energized and not started due to a capacitor failure. Maybe the protection circuit would help but who knows so why chance it.

The HVAC pros are always bitching about poor capacitor quality. Get a premium cap and then enjoy the thought of having prevented the single biggest cause of A/C and HP failures.

For my Rheem HP I have a spare parts supply consisting of control board, OFM cap, hermetic cap and contactor. (ie The 4 biggest points of failure.)

 

[joe--h]

http://www.capacitorguide.com/motor-starting-capacitor