Capping propane gas line.

[sublime68charger]

Wife wants to sell the gas stove in the basement,

Pulled it out from the wall and the line doesn't have a shut off valve on it?

I stopped at hardware store today and got a end cap that is the correct size I think.

Any way my plan is to turn on both up stairs stove and basement stove and have burners lit go out and shut off propane tank wait till the burners die out. Split downstairs line from stove and cap it off.

Turn propane back on.

Does this work?


Pic of the current hook up
Is there a good way to check for propane leak other than just the smell test?

Heck I suppse I can put a bucket of water over the capped end and watch for bubbles?
Long term plan is to put a shelf unit where stove was

Don't want house to go boom that be very bad?
Thanks for your thoughts on this

 

[sublime68charger]

Water heater is electric,
And house furnace has auto pilot so be okay on getting those back up and going.

 

[Alchymist]

Looks like copper tubing with flare fitting coming out of the wall. If so, grab a brass flare plug:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_416759-104-LFA-159_0__?productId=3824471

Just make sure you get the right size!

 

[CitadelBlue]

I'd say yes. It should work.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Use slightly diluted liquid dish detergent for leak testing. It will cling and blow bubbles if leaking.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Go out to where the two lines split and remove the "t" and install a straight coupling. Takes all the question of leak and damage to the line from later work out of the picture completely. Just common sense to completely remove the line and decommission it if you are going to put cabinets in its place. I would not want a copper line with propane hidden behind cabinets out of sight but ready for later damage. To easy to puncture and blow a house up.

 

[sublime68charger]

Looks like copper tubing with flare fitting coming out of the wall. If so, grab a brass flare plug:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_416759-104-LFA-159_0__?productId=3824471

Just make sure you get the right size!

I'd say yes. It should work.

Use slightly diluted liquid dish detergent for leak testing. It will cling and blow bubbles if leaking.

Thanks for the replays
Will due!

 

[sublime68charger]

Go out to where the two lines split and remove the "t" and install a straight coupling. Takes all the question of leak and damage to the line from later work out of the picture completely. Just common sense to completely remove the line and decommission it if you are going to put cabinets in its place. I would not want a copper line with propane hidden behind cabinets out of sight but ready for later damage. To easy to puncture and blow a house up.

I'd have to rip out the drywall to find the T junction.

Though I can ask previous owner where it's at next time I talk to him.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Go out to where the two lines split and remove the "t" and install a straight coupling. Takes all the question of leak and damage to the line from later work out of the picture completely. Just common sense to completely remove the line and decommission it if you are going to put cabinets in its place. I would not want a copper line with propane hidden behind cabinets out of sight but ready for later damage. To easy to puncture and blow a house up.

Great point. For any future homeowners maybe cut the drywall out and install one of these over the capped line. Makes a clean termination and future recognition/ access point. JMO

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=115086-138-34059&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3130139&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

 

[Ironhorse74]

Put a valve at the end of the line and then plug the valve.

Brad

 

[larry4406]

Put a valve at the end of the line and then plug the valve.

Brad

+1!!

 

[bob15]

Put a valve at the end of the line and then plug the valve.

Brad

This^^^^^

Code requires a shut-off valve at each appliance anyways.....so do it right the first time.

Also use a gas **** (not just any ball valve you find) and the correct sealant (will say good for LP)

 

[Dustin Echoes]

Why not shut the propane off at the tank? I sell tanks for residential and commercial use, and if the only thing they were feeding to was the fireplace, just shut the tanks off on their valves. Heck, disconnect them if you feel safer?

 

[pstnbly]

Go out to where the two lines split and remove the "t" and install a straight coupling. Takes all the question of leak and damage to the line from later work out of the picture completely. Just common sense to completely remove the line and decommission it if you are going to put cabinets in its place. I would not want a copper line with propane hidden behind cabinets out of sight but ready for later damage. To easy to puncture and blow a house up.

^^This. This installation looks to be poorly done (probably by the previous HO). If it were me I would have the line removed back to the source no matter how much drywall needed to come down.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Yes, I would go back to the tee and either remove the tee and replace it with a coupler, or cap it off at the tee. It should be a flared fitting either way. Do check for leaks, the 20 percent dish soap and 80 percent water will work and is the cheapest. I did see that home depot sell it all ready mixed up. But just make your own.

 

[sberry]

At working pressure you don't even need to shut it off to cap. If nothing is running often it doesn't even put the pilots out.