Car Detailing - A "How To" write up/walk through WITH PICS

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Hey guys.. love reading the info on here. I'm about to purchase a PC kit. I've called and talked to AutoGeek & Adams. Here is what each recommends. The Adams is a bit more expensive, but does have more stuff. Which one would you choose?

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-swirl-remover.html

or

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-568-adams-complete-porter-cable-7424xp-polisher-kit.aspx

Thanks for the help guys..

Yup that looks like Adams Prices lol. Either kit should be good...but the only thing i'd say is I prefer 5.5" pads rather that 6.5". The reason being is that, yes the PC can handle 6.5" pads...but the power has a lot more pad to be distributed to so it can effect the cutting power. The other reason is that 5.5" fits into smaller areas better...and you can use it to sort of use the edge of the pad along body lines to get those swirls on the edges.

Personally i'd recommend something like this http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/meguiars-g110v2-microfiber-paint-correction-kit.html

I really like the Meguiars Microfiber D.A set up...i think you'd like it too. The other option would be a Meguiars #105 (compound) and #205 (finishing polish) set up. 105 is a bit more difficult to work with than D300 (D300 is the microfiber compound) #105 dries quicker and has a shorter buff cycle BUT if you use it with a microfiber cutting pad rather than a foam cutting pad ive HEARD it buffs longer (havent tried it yet but will in a week on a detail we have at a body shop).

205...what can i say..it's an awesome finishing polish. I really love this product. If you want a quick 2 step and done, do just the microfiber set up...D300 compound....D301 finishing wax..you're done.

If you want to mix and match....D300 for compound....#205 on a foam polishing pad as your finishing polish...then your last step would be a sealant or wax. I personally like this combo. The extra step takes more time but the paint looks so beautiful afterwards that its worth it. I used that combo here

Also one more note GOOD LIGHTING is a must...a halogen is really a lot of help...they get hot but give great light. The light im using in the video is the "Brinkman Dual Xenon" light...rechargable...a little bulky but works great as hand held. A high lumens LED flashlight would work well too. Its really important to check your work and make sure you're getting the correction you want. Nothing is worse than doing the whole car and then seeing "Oh ****, this still isn't as nice as i'd hoped"...do a test spot...check your work as you go...enjoy the beautiful finish

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

This has been a GREAT thread - lots of new learning and I am trying to absorb what I can. Just like anything else, you learn about better tools for a job and it becomes SO MUCH EASIER to get a great result.

Question: what is best to use on the sun-faded black plastic trim? I have tried a lot of the cheaper "black/wet" products, and even tire shine, but none of these look good for more than a day. I am pretty certain I am not using the right products.

I am not the type of person who can recite the Meguiar products by number.

Any suggestions would be really appreciated - these are the areas that look the worst on my cars.

For a fix for a month or so use Meguiars Ultimate Protectant. For a permanant fix you'll need to dye it http://www.autogeek.net/fbk04.html

Never used it myself but have heard good results and it lasts...just be careful lol

 

[vw_tdi]

2nd the forever black products. They work, but be careful. Mask off the area - even remove the piece, if you can.

 

[c_mccann]

What clay bar do you recommend? I have used the MG's kit, it works good, but I have no basis for comparision.
Also- have you ever used Detailking.com's products? Any opinions?
I am also looking for a good cleaner/polish for my white Ford Expedition- last year I was introduced to it and it is garbage- left swirls in the paint that were tough to get out. I use a Porter Cable 5" random orbital for my polishing. Can you recommend a polish to use after the clay bar?
Great info!

 

[haugy]

Hey guys.. love reading the info on here. I'm about to purchase a PC kit. I've called and talked to AutoGeek & Adams. Here is what each recommends. The Adams is a bit more expensive, but does have more stuff. Which one would you choose?

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-swirl-remover.html

or

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-568-adams-complete-porter-cable-7424xp-polisher-kit.aspx

Thanks for the help guys..

My main reason for going with Adams was the support. I had a question on Friday night before tackling my project. I sent Adam's an email, and got a response Saturday morning. That allowed me to start my project then, rather than wait till Monday.

And after using theirs, I'm a big fan. I've used tons of waxes on my boats and cars over the years. By far Adams was the easiest to use and most effective. Coming from a medium level detailer. I'm not a pro, I do mine normally, but never been able to get to this level. So for me to be able to really make that Benz pop sold me.

Post pics on whatever you do. My next project will be a heavily scratched 88 Harley Heritage that needs help.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

What clay bar do you recommend? I have used the MG's kit, it works good, but I have no basis for comparision.
Also- have you ever used Detailking.com's products? Any opinions?
I am also looking for a good cleaner/polish for my white Ford Expedition- last year I was introduced to it and it is garbage- left swirls in the paint that were tough to get out. I use a Porter Cable 5" random orbital for my polishing. Can you recommend a polish to use after the clay bar?
Great info!

After a clay you have tons of choices. If you're looking for a single step All In One (some correction, cleans the paint, polishes and leaves a wax behind) D151 is a good choice. I really like it, but after trying Meguiars D300 compound with the microfiber system they offer...the D151 has taken a back seat. D300 finishes off VERY nicely for a compound and gives really good correction. You can follow up with a finishing polish if you're feeling ambitions, or you can go straight to wax/sealant if you don't want to invest the extra time. I think i posted a link above in my last post with a good start up kit for the Meguiars D.A Microfiber System.

Other good polishes are Wolfgang, Menzernas, Pinnacle...and there are others. But for most bang for your buck and excellent correction...Meguiars is my go to. I will say i have found better SEALANTS and WAXES...but for correction/polishing, i like Megs for sure. I was pretty impressed with Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Paint Sealant...used it on a red Challenger a month back....went to give it a maintenance wash today and the paint still felt like silk.

As for another clay option...go to AutoDetailingSolutions.com and look up the hi-tech Magna Sponge, its a pretty good product. I've only used Megs and Mothers clay...if you live where its cold...id say put the clay in the microwave for just a few seconds and it should help make the clay more pliable and much easier to knead.

Never used DetailingKings stuff...not too familiar so i wont say good or bad about them.

My main reason for going with Adams was the support. I had a question on Friday night before tackling my project. I sent Adam's an email, and got a response Saturday morning. That allowed me to start my project then, rather than wait till Monday.

And after using theirs, I'm a big fan. I've used tons of waxes on my boats and cars over the years. By far Adams was the easiest to use and most effective. Coming from a medium level detailer. I'm not a pro, I do mine normally, but never been able to get to this level. So for me to be able to really make that Benz pop sold me.

Post pics on whatever you do. My next project will be a heavily scratched 88 Harley Heritage that needs help.

Hey i say if you find something you like...go for it...whatever it is. I have nothing against Adams, just too rich for my blood...Ive found things i like and thats what i stick with, but when i get a little something extra in my pocket sometimes ill venture out and try something new .

Autogeek.net has great customer service also...fast email replies and i really like their online forum. Can get answers from many difference sources and get different opinions and ideas (and share your own).

 

[HiccaBurp]

Yup that looks like Adams Prices lol. Either kit should be good...but the only thing i'd say is I prefer 5.5" pads rather that 6.5". The reason being is that, yes the PC can handle 6.5" pads...but the power has a lot more pad to be distributed to so it can effect the cutting power. The other reason is that 5.5" fits into smaller areas better...and you can use it to sort of use the edge of the pad along body lines to get those swirls on the edges.

Personally i'd recommend something like this http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/meguiars-g110v2-microfiber-paint-correction-kit.html

I really like the Meguiars Microfiber D.A set up...i think you'd like it too. The other option would be a Meguiars #105 (compound) and #205 (finishing polish) set up. 105 is a bit more difficult to work with than D300 (D300 is the microfiber compound) #105 dries quicker and has a shorter buff cycle BUT if you use it with a microfiber cutting pad rather than a foam cutting pad ive HEARD it buffs longer (havent tried it yet but will in a week on a detail we have at a body shop).

205...what can i say..it's an awesome finishing polish. I really love this product. If you want a quick 2 step and done, do just the microfiber set up...D300 compound....D301 finishing wax..you're done.

If you want to mix and match....D300 for compound....#205 on a foam polishing pad as your finishing polish...then your last step would be a sealant or wax. I personally like this combo. The extra step takes more time but the paint looks so beautiful afterwards that its worth it. I used that combo here

Also one more note GOOD LIGHTING is a must...a halogen is really a lot of help...they get hot but give great light. The light im using in the video is the "Brinkman Dual Xenon" light...rechargable...a little bulky but works great as hand held. A high lumens LED flashlight would work well too. Its really important to check your work and make sure you're getting the correction you want. Nothing is worse than doing the whole car and then seeing "Oh ****, this still isn't as nice as i'd hoped"...do a test spot...check your work as you go...enjoy the beautiful finish

Thx WWaW!! Thanks for the info on the Meguiars kit. How does the Meguiars compare to the PC? Does Meguiars make it themselves, or is it a name brand rebranded? The less I spend the better. I'm not a pro... just looking to do my own vehicles and maybe a family members or two. As for the lights.. I'm a contractor and have some pretty serious lights I can use

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Thx WWaW!! Thanks for the info on the Meguiars kit. How does the Meguiars compare to the PC? Does Meguiars make it themselves, or is it a name brand rebranded? The less I spend the better. I'm not a pro... just looking to do my own vehicles and maybe a family members or two. As for the lights.. I'm a contractor and have some pretty serious lights I can use

Personally my favorite D.A is the griots. It is only about $100 or less if you find a good deal on Amazon (have to hunt for it but they have sales here n' there on them). It has very good power (more than the PCXP but about equal with Meguiars). I can't remember WHO makes Megs polisher...i know i read somewhere who made it but have totally forgotten lol. Griots also comes with a lifetime warranty which is a big plus...i bought one a year ago and i obviously use mine quite often and its still running strong. So if you bought the Griots, and then the 'starter kit' of the Meguiars DA Microfiber system (i think its 2 cutting pads, 2 finishing pads, 16 oz of compound and 16 oz of finishing wax) you should be sittin' pretty. Just make sure to buy the supplies needed to MAINTAIN it with good washing and you'll be in for a sweet looking ride.

Since you have some serious lights maybe you can help me out. Do you have and good (bright, say 160 lumens) fairly compact LED Flashlights (prefer them to be white light not blue or yellow or whatever) that won't cost me an arm and a leg. I could use a back up light to my Brinkmann.

 

[HiccaBurp]

Personally my favorite D.A is the griots. It is only about $100 or less if you find a good deal on Amazon (have to hunt for it but they have sales here n' there on them). It has very good power (more than the PCXP but about equal with Meguiars). I can't remember WHO makes Megs polisher...i know i read somewhere who made it but have totally forgotten lol. Griots also comes with a lifetime warranty which is a big plus...i bought one a year ago and i obviously use mine quite often and its still running strong. So if you bought the Griots, and then the 'starter kit' of the Meguiars DA Microfiber system (i think its 2 cutting pads, 2 finishing pads, 16 oz of compound and 16 oz of finishing wax) you should be sittin' pretty. Just make sure to buy the supplies needed to MAINTAIN it with good washing and you'll be in for a sweet looking ride.

Since you have some serious lights maybe you can help me out. Do you have and good (bright, say 160 lumens) fairly compact LED Flashlights (prefer them to be white light not blue or yellow or whatever) that won't cost me an arm and a leg. I could use a back up light to my Brinkmann.

For bright white and great quality I go for Surefire LED flashlights. However, their price is a bit rich. The brand I use the most is Fenix and absolutely love them. Great light, built tough and affordable. I use them for work, home and play(mostly shooting sports .

For what your looking for, you can't beat this...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041NE8TG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Good luck and thanks for all the info. Now to decide if I want a Griots or Meguiars machine? I'm doing the one thing my wife hates the most.. I do so much research that I end up not getting anything because of information overload!!! LOL

 

[tanyaB23]

im newbie here.

 

[Matt M PA]

My detailing light is a Stanley 5 watt LED handheld spotlight. Finding swirls is cake. It runs a long time on a charge. Lowe's, Wal-Mart have 'em. About $35 if memory serves.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

For bright white and great quality I go for Surefire LED flashlights. However, their price is a bit rich. The brand I use the most is Fenix and absolutely love them. Great light, built tough and affordable. I use them for work, home and play(mostly shooting sports .

For what your looking for, you can't beat this...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041NE8TG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Good luck and thanks for all the info. Now to decide if I want a Griots or Meguiars machine? I'm doing the one thing my wife hates the most.. I do so much research that I end up not getting anything because of information overload!!! LOL

Ill make it easy, get the Griots..you wont be disappointed and you have a lifetime warranty. Autogeek.net is having a 15% off buffer sale thru the weekend i believe...then just buy your product and go to town.

Ill probably grab that light

My detailing light is a Stanley 5 watt LED handheld spotlight. Finding swirls is cake. It runs a long time on a charge. Lowe's, Wal-Mart have 'em. About $35 if memory serves.

Ill check that one out too if i need one asap (which i might lol!) Thanks for the info.

 

[Matt M PA]

Another plus for the Stanley light is that it has a softer rubber "ring" around the end, in case you were to bump it against the surface. And, it's a pistol grip which is nice. I can't imagine working without one. (I went to a detailing demo once were the instructor used a small digital camera to look for swirls...I thought that was really alot more work than the instant results with my spotlight)

A couple product mentions. I have found Zainos Fusion very good for removing swirls and cobwebs. Its also water based, so it leaves nothing behind, where some others leave behind an oil that may not only hides potential minor swirls, and perhaps not allow a good bond of your final sealant or wax. (glazes are usually very high in oil content with short durability)

 

[vw_tdi]

Most of the pros I know use 2 halogen lights for polishing:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_320775-337-...=/pl__0__s?Ntt=halogen+light+stand&facetInfo=

 

[Matt M PA]

vwtdi...I used to use something similar. Mine was a slightly smaller version with just one light that I mounted on a tripod. It was much easier to take on location too.

Once I found that Stanley one mentioned above...the halogen got parked...for several reasons.

To begin, it's one more cord to trip over, move, direct around tires, etc. Two, while it's unlikely...I bumped into mine a couple times and almost knocked it over. I caught it...but was concerned about it falling into a car. I also got tired of moving the darned thing. Each time I would finish an area...I'd have to move the light. They're hot...I got tired of working near the darned thing. Finally, if working on location...it's big thing to move and wait to cool down until it can be handled or packed.

This is light I use...
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=yeirTsrmPOna0QGPxaCWDw&ved=0CDgQ8wIwAg#

 

[vw_tdi]

vwtdi...I used to use something similar. Mine was a slightly smaller version with just one light that I mounted on a tripod. It was much easier to take on location too.

Once I found that Stanley one mentioned above...the halogen got parked...for several reasons.

To begin, it's one more cord to trip over, move, direct around tires, etc. Two, while it's unlikely...I bumped into mine a couple times and almost knocked it over. I caught it...but was concerned about it falling into a car. I also got tired of moving the darned thing. Each time I would finish an area...I'd have to move the light. They're hot...I got tired of working near the darned thing. Finally, if working on location...it's big thing to move and wait to cool down until it can be handled or packed.

This is light I use...
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=yeirTsrmPOna0QGPxaCWDw&ved=0CDgQ8wIwAg#

you bring up a lot of good points...especially the tripping / falling on the car thing. Man, that would be awful. I'm going to pass on that link to a couple of friends...

 

[slush]

Most of the pros I know use 2 halogen lights for polishing:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_320775-337-...=/pl__0__s?Ntt=halogen+light+stand&facetInfo=

That's exactly what I've used in the past

 

[BHR4CE1]

Hey there WWW...Great info!

If you ever find yourself in SOCAL, let me know. I built a garage (see my sig) just for having my cars detailed.

 

[mroy05]

Great info. I have a few questions.

1. Where does glaze fit in? (I have used it as a cleaner/polish and waxed afterward).

2. I bought a used motorcycle that has a chrome console and it has micro scratches. I think the previous owner used polish an a sh..y towel of some sort. Is there a way to remove the scratches from the chrome?


thanks

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Another plus for the Stanley light is that it has a softer rubber "ring" around the end, in case you were to bump it against the surface. And, it's a pistol grip which is nice. I can't imagine working without one. (I went to a detailing demo once were the instructor used a small digital camera to look for swirls...I thought that was really alot more work than the instant results with my spotlight)

A couple product mentions. I have found Zainos Fusion very good for removing swirls and cobwebs. Its also water based, so it leaves nothing behind, where some others leave behind an oil that may not only hides potential minor swirls, and perhaps not allow a good bond of your final sealant or wax. (glazes are usually very high in oil content with short durability)

Yes thats why i like something small too. I DO bring halogens onto correction jobs...i want to check my work in as many different types of light as possible. I use to bring the whole tri-pod but as you said below...its bulky as hell and hard to move around and if the garage isn't big then finding space for the legs AND me...isn't easy. SO now i just have disconnected them from the tri-pod (ive got the craftsman kind and it disconnects...one of the stupid switches wont turn off one of the lights now though :-\) but its much easier to move around now. I usually dont use it on the whole job...ill use my brinkmann and use the halogen to double check an area when im done...

The one thing i REALLY like the halogens for...is wax removal...you always miss some...always lol...but as long as the wax/sealant is hazed over then the halogens will show if you missed any pretty easily. Well that and windows...you can't do windows in the sun, but you cant see if you got all the streaks out unless you have bright light...so i shine the halogens infront of or behind the window/windshield im doing so i can see if the streaks are out or not

As for polish residue...usually an alcohol wipe down will show you if there is any 'filled' areas...either that or a spray wax like final inspection will remove any left over residue.

Most of the pros I know use 2 halogen lights for polishing:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_320775-337-...=/pl__0__s?Ntt=halogen+light+stand&facetInfo=

Yup yup, mine are similar to that, but like i said above...don't lug the tri-pod around any more lol

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Great info. I have a few questions.

1. Where does glaze fit in? (I have used it as a cleaner/polish and waxed afterward).

2. I bought a used motorcycle that has a chrome console and it has micro scratches. I think the previous owner used polish an a sh..y towel of some sort. Is there a way to remove the scratches from the chrome?


thanks

Glazes are usually used on old single stage paint. Single stage paint has no clear...and glaze...basically...is just oil lol. So the glaze is great to use on single stage paint that has sort of that 'dry' or 'faded' look as it restores the oils back into the paint.

THIS http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html is the best write up ive ever come across concerning how to use a glaze on single stage paint...now not everyone will want to do THAT much work...you could just buff the glaze on and still get decent results....but if you have time give that thread a read.

As for chrome...yes you can remove the scratches. For starters i'd get some Mothers Chrome Polish (any type of POLISH is abrasive, compounds are more aggressive polishes, just a note). I'd also say if you have a DA polisher use it with a foam pad with the Mothers polish. If NOT, you could get the Powerball Mini...it connects to a drill and works good when doing rims or chrome. You could also try it by hand but you'd have a lot of rubbing to do lol.

I've also heard of guys using Meguairs #105 which is a compound...but pro grade. Consumer grade would be Meguiars Ultimate Compound, its about the same stuff, just a little more mild and can be bought over the counter at wally world for 8 or 10 bucks. If the swirls/scratches are deep...give it a shot...then follow up with Mothers Polish...then wax it and enjoy the shine

Just note, whatever you try...do a little test spot first and look at the results to see if they are better or worse...if its worse, change your technique or try another product.

 

[89MustangGX]

What do you recommend for cleaning and treating leather in a newer vehicle, like my 06 Super Duty. The leather is coated, like I believe most is now, and it seems to have "dirt" in all the grain that just won't come out. I have tried several different products, and the top of it is clean and seems to be in really nice shape. It's just that when I look close, it seems dirty. One of those things most people wouldn't notice, but I do.

BTW, I saw your detail on the Challenger on autopia.org and wow.

Adam

 

[IMXCITD]

nice write up! thanks!!

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Hey there WWW...Great info!

If you ever find yourself in SOCAL, let me know. I built a garage (see my sig) just for having my cars detailed.

Wow man, sorry took me so long to reply...was gonna look at your link then got sidetracked. Thats awesome. If i ever end up doing any under carriages can i come to your house lol? That would be my dream...to have my own garage, either 2 car like that or 4 car (double deep type) with all of my gear set up..and to have a lift like that would just be a dream.

What kind of cars do you have? Too bad you don't live closer, that would be fun to detail at your place lol

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

What do you recommend for cleaning and treating leather in a newer vehicle, like my 06 Super Duty. The leather is coated, like I believe most is now, and it seems to have "dirt" in all the grain that just won't come out. I have tried several different products, and the top of it is clean and seems to be in really nice shape. It's just that when I look close, it seems dirty. One of those things most people wouldn't notice, but I do.

BTW, I saw your detail on the Challenger on autopia.org and wow.

Adam

Ahh you saw the Challenger huh? That was a fun detail...long and hard but man it looked so sweet when we were finished. The owner loved it, said he's going to 'treat his baby' to a visit from us once a year lol.

For your leather...as long as it is the coated leather and not the type of leather in the Kings Ranch edition, then you could use an all purpose cleaner (I like meguiars APC about 4 or 5:1) and just spray a little on there. Here's the trick my sis came up with. Rather than taking a brush and just going at it...use your hand to spread the cleaner evenly over the area you are doing (wear a glove of course). Then use some type of a medium bristle brush, even a finger nail brush would work great...and give it a scrub. Not too hard of course but enough to loosen the dirt. Then wipe it clean and apply a leather conditioner.

OR you could also get a little steamer, which i love on leather and vinyl. Helps speed it up and get out nasty stuck in dirt. Check out Harbor Freight or HD for the McCulloch. Like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DF0RB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Its about $100 but you can get one used from Amazon or c.list for around $75 (or less if you're lucky). Its not a high grade industrial steamer, but it does make jobs easier for us and i think for the fairly small investment you would be happy with it too. Still use a little APC with it to help the cleaning along..but if you use the triangle head attachment for the steamer and wrap a terry towel around the head...then steam the seat while gently rubbing, you'll get it really clean.

You MIGHT also be seeing just creases in the seats. Which i've come across and though it looks dirty, it isnt (this is usually older leather though). Its just wrinkled or folded over and the crease makes it look dark like its dirty but it really isn't.

Hope that helps man. Keep an eye out on Autopia...got another sweet write up on a lime green Daytona Charger we did a couple days back. Turned out awesome!

 

[vgarage]

great thread Wills! thanks for the info.

One question for you.. what are your thoughts on vacuums in terms of brands, types etc.. for the general garage enthusiast ?

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

great thread Wills! thanks for the info.

One question for you.. what are your thoughts on vacuums in terms of brands, types etc.. for the general garage enthusiast ?

Honestly i haven't used enough of them to compare, but with my experience with the actual Shop Vac brand from Lowes..its been a trooper. Used it for about 3 years now and hasn't caused a problem yet...and we dont just use it for cars all the time, but use the blower attachment often...have used it to **** up water out of fountains and pools, even mud a few times and it worked great. Enough power to do the job and cleaned up real nice. I have the 12 gallon one with 5.5 peak HP i believe (or maybe its 6 HP, cant remember for sure).

The only 'eh' thing i have to say about it is the tool holder isn't the best lol. I mean its ok, but things do have a tendency to fall out when you're moving it in and out of the truck if you're not careful (mainly the blower attachment piece). Other than that, no issues. Plus for garage work...get the big flat rectangular attachment and add on a couple extensions and it works great for sucking up saw dust or tile dust off the floor...also works good for puddles of water. Thats just my 02 cents

 

[Matt M PA]

Not to step on Wills toes....

I have a wall mounted Metro vac in my garage. It is not a wet vac, but for car work is very handy. It came with 24 feet of hose, and we added a couple more sections. I can go anywhere in my garage with this set up its made in the US, and has great suction. Since its wall mounted, it's out of the way...just pull the hose down and off you go. I wen installed a wireless lamp remote to trip a relay so I can turn it on and off while working.

For remote work, I have the Ridgid vac that looks like a toolbox. All the tools, hose, etc go inside.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Not to step on Wills toes....

I have a wall mounted Metro vac in my garage. It is not a wet vac, but for car work is very handy. It came with 24 feet of hose, and we added a couple more sections. I can go anywhere in my garage with this set up its made in the US, and has great suction. Since its wall mounted, it's out of the way...just pull the hose down and off you go. I wen installed a wireless lamp remote to trip a relay so I can turn it on and off while working.

For remote work, I have the Ridgid vac that looks like a toolbox. All the tools, hose, etc go inside.

Ive seen the wall mounted vacs...heard they're really good and quite powerful. Do you have a link to the toolbox type vac you're talking about by ridgid...sounds like it might make life easier on me lol

 

[89MustangGX]

For your leather...as long as it is the coated leather and not the type of leather in the Kings Ranch edition, then you could use an all purpose cleaner (I like meguiars APC about 4 or 5:1) and just spray a little on there. Here's the trick my sis came up with. Rather than taking a brush and just going at it...use your hand to spread the cleaner evenly over the area you are doing (wear a glove of course). Then use some type of a medium bristle brush, even a finger nail brush would work great...and give it a scrub. Not too hard of course but enough to loosen the dirt. Then wipe it clean and apply a leather conditioner.

OR you could also get a little steamer, which i love on leather and vinyl. Helps speed it up and get out nasty stuck in dirt. Check out Harbor Freight or HD for the McCulloch. Like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DF0RB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Its about $100 but you can get one used from Amazon or c.list for around $75 (or less if you're lucky). Its not a high grade industrial steamer, but it does make jobs easier for us and i think for the fairly small investment you would be happy with it too. Still use a little APC with it to help the cleaning along..but if you use the triangle head attachment for the steamer and wrap a terry towel around the head...then steam the seat while gently rubbing, you'll get it really clean.

Thanks again Will. I'm going to give this a shot.

I was actually thinking about a steamer already, but I didn't really know what worked and what didn't-- for what I want to use it for anyway. I was looking at this one: http://www.vapamore.com/ but if the one you linked to will do the same job, I'm all for saving a few bucks. Any thoughts on that, or other models that might do a lot more for a little more money? I won't be using it at a Pro level, but I'd like it to work, and last.

Thanks,

Adam

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Thanks again Will. I'm going to give this a shot.

I was actually thinking about a steamer already, but I didn't really know what worked and what didn't-- for what I want to use it for anyway. I was looking at this one: http://www.vapamore.com/ but if the one you linked to will do the same job, I'm all for saving a few bucks. Any thoughts on that, or other models that might do a lot more for a little more money? I won't be using it at a Pro level, but I'd like it to work, and last.

Thanks,

Adam

Adam,

the one i hear about the most...and if i had the cash i would get myself is the VX5000 http://www.steam-cleaners-direct.com/ Its pricey but from what i've heard from quite a few different people is it's worth it. I got my little McCulloch because i needed SOMETHING to help out with interiors...and it has worked for me. But just like i have my little extractor that has helped me a ton, i do plan on getting a pro Durrmaid extractor soon. I figure its something that'll last me 1/2 a lifetime at least lol...same with the steamer. Its also why im looking to drop 5-700 on a good pressure washing unit.

So it depends on your intentions of use. Ive seen steamers be used for carpet spot cleaning, grout, tile, grease removal etc etc. So its something you could use often...if you have the extra cash then i'd say go for the VX, but the one you linked me to looks decent as well. Maybe compare the stats on them, check lots of reviews on amazon and see what looks like the most bang for your buck.

One last thing, let me know how the seats turn out!

 

[89MustangGX]

Adam,

the one i hear about the most...and if i had the cash i would get myself is the VX5000 http://www.steam-cleaners-direct.com/ Its pricey but from what i've heard from quite a few different people is it's worth it. I got my little McCulloch because i needed SOMETHING to help out with interiors...and it has worked for me. But just like i have my little extractor that has helped me a ton, i do plan on getting a pro Durrmaid extractor soon. I figure its something that'll last me 1/2 a lifetime at least lol...same with the steamer. Its also why im looking to drop 5-700 on a good pressure washing unit.

So it depends on your intentions of use. Ive seen steamers be used for carpet spot cleaning, grout, tile, grease removal etc etc. So its something you could use often...if you have the extra cash then i'd say go for the VX, but the one you linked me to looks decent as well. Maybe compare the stats on them, check lots of reviews on amazon and see what looks like the most bang for your buck.

One last thing, let me know how the seats turn out!

Wow-- that one looks nice but it is definitely a price jump! The one I linked you I could get for $250 refurb, which I thought maybe I could justify that price range if I knew it would do wonders for me. I think maybe I'll start with the McCulloch you linked me to and see how much I use it and if it is something I want to use more-- then upgrade if necessary. If it works for a Pro, it should be good for me too...

I will probably go out in a few minutes and take a look at the seats. I'll let you know.

Thanks again!

Adam

 

[floridaguy]

I started taking care of this Volvo S-40 last year. The car is not mine but I treat as it is. This year I wanted to make the paint is clean and well preserved.

I wanted to take a before picture but it was raining and the pic looked strange so I washed the car with Mothers Carnauba Wash & Wax, then moved the car into the garge. I then clay the entire car including wheels using clay magic blue. I then proceeded to use M205, M21 and M26 as the topper. As for the wheels after claying I applied cleaner wax, then carnauba liquid wax. All exterior rubber and trim received Ultimate protectant. The interior was the typical vacuum, with a touch of Folex. For the windows I use Stoners. As I was finishing the car that is when the rain stop just in time so at least i can take an after picture. The car looks better and the owner was happy.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Wow-- that one looks nice but it is definitely a price jump! The one I linked you I could get for $250 refurb, which I thought maybe I could justify that price range if I knew it would do wonders for me. I think maybe I'll start with the McCulloch you linked me to and see how much I use it and if it is something I want to use more-- then upgrade if necessary. If it works for a Pro, it should be good for me too...

I will probably go out in a few minutes and take a look at the seats. I'll let you know.

Thanks again!

Adam

Yeah it gets me by, but id like to upgrade...i think i'm going to upgrade my pressure washer first, then my extractor *sigh*..and i wonder why i can't save up any money lol

I started taking care of this Volvo S-40 last year. The car is not mine but I treat as it is. This year I wanted to make the paint is clean and well preserved.

I wanted to take a before picture but it was raining and the pic looked strange so I washed the car with Mothers Carnauba Wash & Wax, then moved the car into the garge. I then clay the entire car including wheels using clay magic blue. I then proceeded to use M205, M21 and M26 as the topper. As for the wheels after claying I applied cleaner wax, then carnauba liquid wax. All exterior rubber and trim received Ultimate protectant. The interior was the typical vacuum, with a touch of Folex. For the windows I use Stoners. As I was finishing the car that is when the rain stop just in time so at least i can take an after picture. The car looks better and the owner was happy.

Looks great man. What did you use to apply the 205? I love that stuff, one of the best products ive used. Never used M21 yet but i do use M20 quite often. Great protection and leaves the paint super slick.

 

[89MustangGX]

One last thing, let me know how the seats turn out!

Amazing!

I spent about a half hour cleaning the driver's seat, and I am in shock. I have tried so many different products, but never thought I could scrub these type of seats. They came so clean-so quickly, I feel like these are new seats. The entire time I have owned the truck they have been "dirty" in the grain, and I thought I just had to live with it-- even considered having them recovered at one point. Now I think they are not looking too bad for a 100k mile truck!

Thanks!

I took a couple quick pics with my cellphone-- a 50/50 and a couple after.

Adam

 

[floridaguy]

Looks great man. What did you use to apply the 205? I love that stuff, one of the best products ive used. Never used M21 yet but i do use M20 quite often. Great protection and leaves the paint super slick.[/QUOTE]


For the M205 I used an LC orange pad. M20 Polymer Sealant is a cleaner wax and M21 Synthetic Sealant is a finishing wax (sealant). Since I just finished apply M205 which as you know does offer some polishing oils I did not want to strip away by using anything such as M20. M21 would seal what I had and M26 is just to give it that extra sparkle.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Amazing!

I spent about a half hour cleaning the driver's seat, and I am in shock. I have tried so many different products, but never thought I could scrub these type of seats. They came so clean-so quickly, I feel like these are new seats. The entire time I have owned the truck they have been "dirty" in the grain, and I thought I just had to live with it-- even considered having them recovered at one point. Now I think they are not looking too bad for a 100k mile truck!

Thanks!

I took a couple quick pics with my cellphone-- a 50/50 and a couple after.

Adam

Thats awesome man. What did you end up using to clean it with? Did you apply a conditioner afterwards? Glad i was able to help...very nice job.

Looks great man. What did you use to apply the 205? I love that stuff, one of the best products ive used. Never used M21 yet but i do use M20 quite often. Great protection and leaves the paint super slick.

For the M205 I used an LC orange pad. M20 Polymer Sealant is a cleaner wax and M21 Synthetic Sealant is a finishing wax (sealant). Since I just finished apply M205 which as you know does offer some polishing oils I did not want to strip away by using anything such as M20. M21 would seal what I had and M26 is just to give it that extra sparkle.[/QUOTE]

M20 ...as its name says..is a polymer sealant, it just has a very light cleaner...but the sealant is still very long term. Ive used it lots of times following up after 205 and it doesn't dim the gloss that 205 leaves...but both are good. Personally i prefer to have no oils left on the surface (unless dealing with single stage of course) since sealants are designed to stick to paint and not oils.

Did you use a flat or ccs pad?

 

[Matt M PA]

Wills....here's the one. What's nice is that it has a "Springy" type hose that stretches...and everything goes into compartments.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Wills....here's the one. What's nice is that it has a "Springy" type hose that stretches...and everything goes into compartments.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Wow thats such a cool lookin little thing! Has great reviews on it too. I think ill be hanging onto my shopvac a bit longer, but this will for sure be at the top of my list of replacement ones...looks like its pretty strong too.

Do you have any pics of YOURS...opened up with all the equipment etc? I ask because HD only shows the one pic of i folded up.

Thanks for the hook up,

wills

 

[Matt M PA]

Wills...here's a pic of each side with the lids raised.