Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Next time around, OEM quality brake rotors for some BMW models are actually pretty fairly priced from some of the online BMW parts vendors. I was surprised at how cheap ATE or Brembo rotors were for my cars.
Car diagnostics
- Thread starter ManicMechanic
- Start date
Next time around, OEM quality brake rotors for some BMW models are actually pretty fairly priced from some of the online BMW parts vendors. I was surprised at how cheap ATE or Brembo rotors were for my cars.
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
OK guys, I've got a good one for you. I am presently looking at this one at work.
2006 Suzuki Forenza, 2.0 liter, auto trans. Check engine light is on with codes;
P1516- Throttle actuator control (TAC) Module throttle position performance
P2106- Throttle actuator control (TAC) System performance- Throttle limitation active
P2110- Throttle actuator control (TAC) system- Forced limited engine speed
P2135- Throttle position (TP) sensor 1-2 correlation
My OTC Genisys will pull the codes from the PCM, but will not show any data stream from either vehicle specific or OBD2 generic, and will not show me freeze frame data. So I checked all relitive circuits and everything led back to the Throttle body (car is drive by wire) being bad. Called the parts department at Suzuki, and they had the part in stock (one would think that its a common problem then). Replaced throttle body cleared codes, and the car drove fine. Car returned 2 months later with the same codes and sluggish acceleration intermittanly. Checked all circuits, and everything was fine. Warrentied throttle body and car drove fine again, (or so I thought). The car is back with the same friggin problem. My only thought is the sensor an the accel. pedel, but since my scanner will not show me the data stream (any other car it would) I cannot see if there is any voltage diff. between the pedel sensor and the acuator on the throttle body at any givin time. I'm hoping one of you have ever ran into this problem, or have any more ideas. Any help would be appriciated
2006 Suzuki Forenza, 2.0 liter, auto trans. Check engine light is on with codes;
P1516- Throttle actuator control (TAC) Module throttle position performance
P2106- Throttle actuator control (TAC) System performance- Throttle limitation active
P2110- Throttle actuator control (TAC) system- Forced limited engine speed
P2135- Throttle position (TP) sensor 1-2 correlation
My OTC Genisys will pull the codes from the PCM, but will not show any data stream from either vehicle specific or OBD2 generic, and will not show me freeze frame data. So I checked all relitive circuits and everything led back to the Throttle body (car is drive by wire) being bad. Called the parts department at Suzuki, and they had the part in stock (one would think that its a common problem then). Replaced throttle body cleared codes, and the car drove fine. Car returned 2 months later with the same codes and sluggish acceleration intermittanly. Checked all circuits, and everything was fine. Warrentied throttle body and car drove fine again, (or so I thought). The car is back with the same friggin problem. My only thought is the sensor an the accel. pedel, but since my scanner will not show me the data stream (any other car it would) I cannot see if there is any voltage diff. between the pedel sensor and the acuator on the throttle body at any givin time. I'm hoping one of you have ever ran into this problem, or have any more ideas. Any help would be appriciated
SpiderGearsMan
Banned
oh ,the sachs clutch on trailblazers that is oem to bmw too ?
if that is stuck on , the truck doesn't want to climb a hill
395flash
New member
Study up on the code setting criteria for those codes. That should help point you in the right direction. If you dont have access to proper tools(scanner) & info for the vehicle than your gonna be chasing your tail or guessing and that can get expensive, let alone tic off your customer. I wont tell you what my opinion is of the Genisyis.
395flash
New member
One thing I forgot to mention. Dont know if you have access to TSB's for this vehicle, but there might be a reflash for this issue. Something i would definetly look into. Good luck, If you get fixed let us know what it was.
checkthisout
Well-known member
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- Sep 5, 2008
- Messages
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The last code is the only relevant code. The other three above that are simply telling you that the engine has gone into limp/limited power/safe mode due to a fault being detected on the APPS circuit.
Three times a charm eh?
It might also be a good idea to check alldata to see if their is an updated calibration for the PCM.
BackTracker
Well-known member
Because water is a better conductor of heat than coolant. Coolant actually degrades the cooling properties of the water. On the other hand it does keep it from rotting your engine and freezing. both pretty good positives i'd say.
BackTracker
Well-known member
friend called me today. 93 toyota camr,. 100k miles on the v6 ,white smoke billowing from tail pipe, barely runs under 2k rpm, massive loss of power. I'm figuring head gasket. or cracke dhead. Car is not overheating thoughts?
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
Checked TSB's and couldnot find anything on a PCM reflash, didn't find anything on the condition either. So what are your thought on the OTC scanner? Starting to think it isn't up to par anymore, but it is the latest version (3.0)
checkthisout
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2008
- Messages
- 5,232
395flash
New member
OTC scanners have never been up to par. They have led me down the wrong path too many times. There is nothing in the diagnostic charts that point to an APPS. More testing is needed.
checkthisout
Well-known member
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- Sep 5, 2008
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- 5,232
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
Tried that, only thing that was found was a slight shimmy while in the worm hole. And a slight over heating problem in 1955
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
probably because it had water instead of anti-freeze
Flux capacitor is cooled by liquid nitrogen <sigh>, who is this clown?
Coach James
Well-known member
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
I never once said that I know everything. As a matter of fact, I said in the original post that either I could help or someone else could. So let me do this, I'll just sit back and listen to yor wisedom....................still waiting. Oh, thats right you just try to bash someone who might have an answer to a question (let me say it once more so that you can understand, MIGHT. sorry folks he's a little hard of hearing at his age). But I guess thats what you get when you mix cheap beer, a keyboard and internet access.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
Anyone have the new Snap-on verus scanner? Looks interesting, just curious how good it is
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
the shop i just started working for has one. i have only used it once but it is nice!
tcianci
Well-known member
No to hijack the thread, but the mention of scanners brings to mind a story of a neighbor of mine, very car challenged, who had a jeep that wouldn't run right at all, the thing would rev, stumble, stall, straighten out a little, all the gages would jump all over the place. I returned from a vacation and the car was gone. I asked him and he said it was at the garage but it wasn't looking good. He told me that he was going to just donate it. I asked if I could have a crack at it. He said sure. I went to the repair garage and asked for the keys. The owner asked me what I was going to do with it, I told him I was going to fix it and sell it. He laughed out loud at me and said he has had his 2 best guys on it for a week, that the engine was a bone yard replacement from a different year and that it was a "transitional" model of engine computer so that none of the codes were necessarily right. I'll take my chances I told him. The battery was dead and if I jumped it, it would start, and croak as soon as the jumpers were removed. I brought down a charged battery got it to run but even with my foot halfway into it the rpms would vary wildly and it was surging like crazy. They also had bundles of wire hanging out from under the dash, the steering column and in the engine bay. I managed to drive it the 2 miles to my house and proceeded to re assemble all the wiring and such. I got it running again and started watching the battery voltage. It was jumping all over the place and then it would steadily head downhill until all the gages would **** out and then it would eventually do a few more weird revs and then die. The guys had all kinds of voltage information written down on pieces of paper in the truck when I got it. But the main battery voltage jumping all over the place made me curious. I took the alternator down to the local parts jockey and they tested it, the thing was putting out all different voltages at a steady speed. I installed a rebuilt, fired it up and it ran perfectly. I sold it to a guy who does hardwood floors for me occasionally. Over 2 years later I thought to ask him about the truck. "never missed a beat in all the time I've been driving it."
The moral of the story is that although automobiles have all kinds of sophisticated electronics in them these days, some of the same stupid non-computer related stuff that croaked them before computers will still croak them today. Look for the basics, vacuum leaks, bad grounds...alternators with split personalities!
The moral of the story is that although automobiles have all kinds of sophisticated electronics in them these days, some of the same stupid non-computer related stuff that croaked them before computers will still croak them today. Look for the basics, vacuum leaks, bad grounds...alternators with split personalities!
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
I'd love to replace that stinking genisys of mine with one, but I just can't bring myself to spend 9 grand on it. If ya don't mind, play with it some more and let me know what all it can do (oh boy, I think I see a ****** harrasment lawsuit comming)
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
Does anyone have a problem with lean codes on flex fuel GM's? Ran across one today, ended up being the fuel sending unit. There is a sensor on the fuel level sender that goes bad. just a note if anyone comes across one. Took me a while to figure it out, hopefully this helps someone.....
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
All of the aftermarket scan tools are at best a compromise regardless of whose name is on it. If you work on mostly GM, buy a Tech 2, you won't regret it and it will pay for itself in a brief amount of time.
OP
ManicMechanic
Well-known member
I work on everything from Fords to BMW's, so pretty much whatever rolls into my shop. I need an all around GOOD scanner. If I bought a Tech2, Ford WDS, and all the others, I'd be in the poor house. But I do see your point
spazzer
Well-known member
You have access to a Tech II? Build it as a J-car (aveo) and see if you can access more info that way. Tried clearing the code and doing a wiggle test on the connector? Had an '08 Impala with 2 broken wires on the TB connector, had rubbed on the engine cover.