Car dolly

[Blackbyrd]

Wanting to build something like attached. Could I get away with buying some 4 x7 square tubing that's. 25 thick and cut into 4 inch sections?

Mount some casters on it call it a day?

Working on a 70 camaro, after I pull off the subframe this would make it easy to move around and work on. Rear axle still in place so these fronts would only support the front half of the shell.

 

[36truck]

I think the biggest thing is bracing so the don't roll over going in or out of garage.

 

[Blackbyrd]

In the photo they are mounted to one of the body bushing locations. So that's my plan here, but I get what you are saying you don't want it to fold over if it gets caught on something.

What would work in that situation?

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like a good concept, but I would add some bracing of some sort. maybe flat or round bar cross bracing that bolts in place... something to steady up the pillars from bending and toppling

 

[Monza Harry]

Looks like a good concept, I don't think you need a 1/4" wall tube for that though. A piece of old/used bollard [cheap/free if you hit the right timing/place] with a couple of plates, would do the job far cheaper than the tube called out. Being round wouldn't need cross bracing either. A socket sized hole in the center of the bottom plates would give access to the body mount, along with the required caster pattern. Harry

 

[phy6]

I built something like this for my rat rod, but the big casters I put on my engine stand would have been nicer for rolling over thresholds/cords. Locking would also be nicer.

 

[Blackbyrd]

Sounds like I'm grossly over estimating the strength requirements of this?

I've got all the 1.5 inch angle iron (1/8) thick I used to to brace up the car. I think I bought 6 72inch sticks and cut them up.

Sounds like I should use those to build my post with and get a plate for each end one for body mount and one for the caster.

 

[loganb]

4x4 wood post would work from a strength only, it's just in compression.... that total car right now weighs what...2k lbs? Agree that the challenge is in keeping the posts vertical when moving it around. Toss a brace from post to post, then something extending towards a handy mounting point at least half way to the rear axle should do well

 

[Blackbyrd]

I'm guessing less than 2k at this point curb weight was 31-3200 lbs.

It currently has no engine or trans, interior or fuel tank, trim and windows are gone. And by the time i get ready to use these the front half including subframe and suspension will be out. I'm guessing she will be in the 15-1800 lbs realm? I've seen a few places say the shell only weighs 500lbs?

Rear suspension and axle will still be under it but other than that it's body weight

 

[loganb]

Even lighter then I was guessing

The bigger of wheels you can out under it the better. Air filled 8" or bigger so it wants to roll over hoses, cracks etc will help with reducing the potential on the mounts to try and collapse. The bigger and softer of a wheel, the less concerned I would get on the reinforcement....still needs something but when you move to a big air filled over a 4" hard wheel the load from impacts is much lower

 

[Blackbyrd]

Thanks! Sounds like I have my next welding project..... after floor patch and quarter skin hahaha

 

[Blackbyrd]

Here we go.

 

[Jehannum]

Wanting to build something like attached. Could I get away with buying some 4 x7 square tubing that's. 25 thick and cut into 4 inch sections?

Mount some casters on it call it a day?

Working on a 70 camaro, after I pull off the subframe this would make it easy to move around and work on. Rear axle still in place so these fronts would only support the front half of the shell.

4x7 square tube is going to be way overkill for that application, but sure.

This one was done in .125" wall 1" square tube with some .125" angle iron for anti-racking braces.



It moved that Datsun 1600 around like a champ for a few months, just bolted together.

 

[Slednut]

I build these, it’s nice because I can jack the project using the cross piece and put jack stands under it so working on those lower panels is easy.

I don’t like having the piece that runs between the front and back, it makes working under the project difficult.
I added a picture of some I made for a friend who is 6’6” tall. They have casters and axles for wheels so he can push it outside to keep the dust down in his shop.

 

[Blackbyrd]

Thats kind of what Im after with this @Slednut. I stripped the front half but still want mobility. I dont want to sacrifice underside clearance to accomplish that?

I have some concerns about what I have made acting like a lever against the body mount under the firewall, but I think I may tie my dollys to the fender mount on the upper firewall to take some of that stress off. which will still keep it out of my way.

Ive got one tacked up now and the second held together with magnets, so just gonna finish welding and get them on and see what's what.

 

[larry4406]

I build these, it’s nice because I can jack the project using the cross piece and put jack stands under it so working on those lower panels is easy.

I don’t like having the piece that runs between the front and back, it makes working under the project difficult.
I added a picture of some I made for a friend who is 6’6” tall. They have casters and axles for wheels so he can push it outside to keep the dust down in his shop.

Very nice!

 

[Monza Harry]

@Blackbird what about mounting these to the toe panel mounts and add a bolt on "stabilizer: bar to the rear most sub-frame anchor points [around the front seat leading edge under the car]. Install to move unbolt for access? Just spitballin' to feed the imagination. Whst you built so far looks pretty spot on! Harry
Edit: also consider a similar bar from side to side if using casters (almost mandatory)

 

[Blackbyrd]

@Blackbird what about mounting these to the toe panel mounts and add a bolt on "stabilizer: bar to the rear most sub-frame anchor points [around the front seat leading edge under the car]. Install to move unbolt for access? Just spitballin' to feed the imagination. Whst you built so far looks pretty spot on! Harry
Edit: also consider a similar bar from side to side if using casters (almost mandatory)

I did think of that as an option, but since one ofnthe next steps is to strip the underside I didn't want anything in the way so I don't have to move them and strip anything else.

But these do utilize the toe board body mount. I don't intend to move it a lot? If I thought I could make it happen fast, there's a guy that does Lazer stripping I'd get it onna trailer and let him clean the underside. But I think me stripping it on my back is what will end up happening. The most moving it will see is rolling out of the garage and back in if that's the case

 

[Monza Harry]

Those sub-frame mounts are stout to be sure, but your stand dollies appears to have considerable leverage and the subframe had 6 mounting points mostly in shear/compression while driving, your dollies are torsional/compression. It would **** high to catch a wheel going out of the garage and tweak a sub-frame mount, is all I'm sayin'. Harry

 

[Blackbyrd]

correct again, its about a 2 ft pry bar.......

That's what made me think to go upwards to another mounting spot above the toe board mounts with some square tubing and balance out the load between a horizontal mounting point and a vertical mounting point. I've got plenty of the 1/8 inch angle iron left to play with. I think I bought 7 6ft sticks of it originally to brace up the inside for the roof swap. used 1.5 ish to make the 4 sides of the caster mounts.

 

[Blackbyrd]

All welded up, thank goodness this doesn't need to look pretty haha

Third pic is the additional bracing I'll add to even the load. I'll use the angle iron to make flanges to mount to the firewall and the caster frame

 

[Blackbyrd]

Here's where we ended up, posts up to the firewall are 1inch tube, 1/8 inch thick as well as the angle iron mounts.

Definitely so it wiggle a bit without the fire wall supports. It's not all square but abused whatninhad laying around. Learned if I was going to do something like this again a jig table would be useful or a better work table... maybe my next project.

It rolls well on the large casters though I didn't move it far. I think I've got more than enough clearance to clean the underside now.