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car lifts?

Cobra6

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Oct 23, 2007
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Location
Tennessee
I am building a 24' x 30' garage/workshop, and would like to make sure I can add a 2 or 4 post lift later.
In addition to some of my woodworking tools, I also have 3 classic mustangs - I would like to have a lift to do front end work, plus changing oil and brake shoes, etc.

Anyway, my main concern is how much vertical clearance I need to install a lift?

Does anyone have pros/cons of a 2 post vs. 4 post lift?
What else does everyone have?

Thanks,
Beri
 
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PxTx

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Nov 13, 2006
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Subs of Philly
They make different kinds of lifts for different needs. There is not really a popular lift around here since everyone's needs are different.

I'll venture a guess and say a 2 post might b better for you since they take up less space and you did not mention anything about needing additional storage space.

How tall is the ceiling?
 

PAToyota

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Jan 20, 2006
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South Central Pennsylvania, USA
There are a number of threads on here discussing the advantages/disadvantages of 2 and 4 posts lists as well as different brands - makes for some good reading to get up to speed.

I'd check a couple different manufacturers to see their height requirements and build accordingly.
 

flesburg

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Aug 15, 2006
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Location
Pontiac, IL
I have had a rotary 2 post asymetrical lift for about 12 years. I love it. I paid about $3000 INSTALLED. It is a 7000# lift and I put my suburban on it. You REALLY should have 12' cielings. Outside of post to outside of post is 12' 6" so you will need some width to accomodate. I can store my suburban up on the lift, and I can park a car under it. If I had a 2nd suburban, I could store it under it.

I think you need a 6" thick rebared concrete floor minimum.
 

Danglerb

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Sep 6, 2007
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Location
SoCal
My garage is 148", many lifts appear to be 150" to 151", but there are MANY different brands and styles available.

4 post drive on ramp.
Being able to drive a car on, and raise it with no fuss, is VERY nice. Best for double parking, set of plates and some alignment work possible. Its big, some access issues, raising the wheels requires a bridge jack.

2 post.
Typically the best access, lowest cost, smallest foot print. Often first choice for a shop and general work.

Scissor, Full, Mid Rise, and Low Rise.
Most scissor lifts are mobile, nothing is bolted down, and no special slab requirements other than flat and smooth. Access to the middle of the car is restricted, so its often seen as a specialty lift or extra lift only certain jobs are done on. Low Rise is the common cheap lift many tire shops have, some with pads for lift points, some with big padded areas, quick and reliable. Mid Rise is very popular with body shops, and home users with space issues.

Kwiklift is a ramp you drive on, then raise up the rear with a jack and legs drop down.

Jack and jack stands or ramps, cheap and popular.
 
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C

Cobra6

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Oct 23, 2007
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Location
Tennessee
Thanks - good point about the floor thickness - I haven't gone there yet.

I just know there is a big cost difference in a 8' - 9' ceiling vs. a 10' - 11' ceiling.

I had heard that there were some new lifts that only needed 9.5' clearance, but haven't seen any.

I will search the forum to see topics on 2 vs. 4 post lifts. I am new to the forum (1st post) so I have read a lot, but have not gotten that far.

Thanks again
 

Vicegrip

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Mar 9, 2007
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1,187
Location
NoVA.
You mention working on rather than storing cars. In that case I would think a 2 post would be better suited. I have a Bend-pak in a 24X30 shop. $2300 to my door 3 or 4 years ago. It took me one day working slow and easy to install it and has been trouble free. Manu recommends 4 inches of 3000 psi concrete for the base. I purchased the floor plate type as the shop ceiling is only 10' 6". Would rather not have the floor plate but overall it has not been a problem at all.
Look at pad hight. The Bend pack is one of the best in this regard as it goes from 4 inches to 6' 6". A six foot person can walk under it when it is fully up without having to duck under the arms. My only beef with Rotary is that the lifts seem to be short.
 

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Lloydthumper

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Jun 3, 2007
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268
Has any one mounted a 2 post lift on a 4" thick floor? My floor is only 4" thick but it is 4000psi concrete I am wondering if I will have a problem with a 2 post lift.
 

icnsltmfg

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May 14, 2007
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282
Location
New Jersey
Has any one mounted a 2 post lift on a 4" thick floor? My floor is only 4" thick but it is 4000psi concrete I am wondering if I will have a problem with a 2 post lift.

I wonder if you welded a thick plate that is larger than the the current footprint of the pad and then bolted it, would it change the thickness requirement as it spreading the load out over a larger footprint?
 
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Lloydthumper

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Jun 3, 2007
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268
I wonder if you welded a thick plate that is larger than the the current footprint of the pad and then bolted it, would it change the thickness requirement as it spreading the load out over a larger footprint?

I have wondered the same thing or weld two gussets and a foot on a 45 coming down from the lift it would make the legs more of a trip hazard but the lateral stress would be less which would be the main concern of the lift rocking back and forth and busting the floor and it falling over I am really torn on which to buy.
 
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Cobra6

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Oct 23, 2007
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Location
Tennessee
I don't think I will be storing vehicles on the lift (for a while anyway) - I may need to at some point, or store for a short period while needing room for a large wood project.
 

Vicegrip

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Mar 9, 2007
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Location
NoVA.
IIRC Bend Pac recommended 4 inches of 3000 and they included the anchors for mounting the pillars.
 

Will67

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Nov 17, 2006
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Location
Hell's half acre
Well being raised by a follow all the rules Father, I was stupid enough to put my proposed two-post lift on my garage plans submitted to the County Building Dept. End out come is, I am required to have a 30"x30"x18" footings with #5 rebar cages under each post and a 4,000 PSI concrete mix in these area, and a special inspection i get to pay for from a licenses person (civil engineer or similar) for the anchor bolts that will be epoxyed into footings.

The intended use of the lift is to facilitate the restoration of my 67 camaro, nick-named the money pit.
 

Lloydthumper

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Jun 3, 2007
Messages
268
Well I was raised with out a father and adopted the DO IT RIGHT BUT DON'T DO IT STUPID POLICY. I am sure they have the same building code reguardless if the lift is for a home garage or a comercial garage because they don't know what is going to be picked up in a comercial garage from a ****** to a two ton truck. But if that is what they want and you have already commited to it. It's only time and money. Which I have extra on neither. I wish I would have planned ahead on mine but I had the impression I was getting a 4 post lift and it wouldn't matter but now I am un sure I want a 2 post now but I am unsure of the floor. If you do go that route be sure to pick your lift now so you can get the foot print for installing the anchors that would **** to put them down and them not be in the right place. I have seen it at work with machinery being installed. good luck.
 

Danglerb

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Sep 6, 2007
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SoCal
Following the directions and specifcation of whoever makes your lift isn't a bad way to go, unless you have made it into some city project.

I'm talking totally out my hat since I don't know any of this, BUT ... All the lift vendors I have seen say 4" and do NOT put bolts in the concrete. Anybody here EVER hear of a shop in any industrial space doing ANYTHING special to an existing slab before putting in a lift?
 
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