Car Paint Help

[jonb347]

Okay guys, let me explain to you what my car is.

68 Mustang Coupe with a 351w and a 4 speed. Its by all means, my "hot rod" I drive when im home from school in the summer. its still got its original highland green paint with some surface rust but no real rust. grill is all black. suspension is totally done as well as undercarriage. engine bay is done. interior is stripped minus the seats and dash.

Eventually someday I want to put some shelby body parts on it and paint it professionally and nicely but for now I want to spray it semigloss black. I don't care if it looks professional or not, but I do want the paint to last.

What should I do for a paint (duplicolor spray cans?) and should I bother priming it? looking for cheap!!

 

[evildky]

sealing primer, might cost a bit more than rattle cans but it'll look better longer and it's easy to touch up and when you dod paint it all you need to do is scuff and spray

 

[KMinAF]

Use a $20 HF HVLP spray gun and some thinned down Rustolem. Cheap and will look a lot better than a rattle can job.

 

[e3pres]

I painted my racecar with Valspar tractor enamel. I used the Valspar hardener as well. It looks good from 50ft and it keeps it from rusting. With proper prep and some color sanding/buffing, you should be able to get something like a decent result.

 

[70Chevy]

Seems alot of guys are going with the semi-flat or satin black rattle can stuff for "temporary" paint jobs. Less shine hides the bad stuff better.

 

[TommyK]

SPI makes flat black epoxy with UV inhibitors.

 

[ZRX61]

It's going to take almost as much prep to get a half-assed rattlecan paint job to stick as it would a proper paint job..

 

[DYNA BILL]

It's going to take almost as much prep to get a half-assed rattlecan paint job to stick as it would a proper paint job..

That's what I was thinking.

 

[jonb347]

i dunno, i used the cheapest semi gloss black spray paint and did a quick spray on a parts car, sitting outside, and it still looks good four years later. ive never set up my own spray gun before, just used one to learn technique. how could i get cheap paint for them or what do i use? i was planning on prepping a bit but im not gonna strip all the old paint off or anything

 

[Mr.N]

Use a $20 HF HVLP spray gun and some thinned down Rustolem. Cheap and will look a lot better than a rattle can job.

Unless they've changed there product I've been very unhappy with rustolem outside of the spray can form.

Good point in a gun, as mixing fresh paint makes it look better.


I've painted for an aviation company, very much like auto painting except the FAA randomly could inspect the paint jobs. It's all about prep work!
That said, there are auto paint guy's that forgot more about painting that I've ever known...

My current way of painting: (because I know too much about the time it takes for a good paint job)
1) Remove and stop rust. 2) Clean and scratch current paint 3) Use primer where needed & paint several coats all with a brush 4) sand smooth.

 

[ZRX61]

i dunno, i used the cheapest semi gloss black spray paint and did a quick spray on a parts car, sitting outside, and it still looks good four years later. ive never set up my own spray gun before, just used one to learn technique. how could i get cheap paint for them or what do i use? i was planning on prepping a bit but im not gonna strip all the old paint off or anything

In that case stop ******* about & just use a roller & latex paint from Home Depot..

 

[Need4racin]

Make a cheap paint booth in a shop, prep the car, and paint it. Painting a vehicle is not expensive, it's the labor that is expensive.

 

[jonb347]

lol interesting mix of comments. i have a paint booth already in my project room, i have no problem prepping and whatnot, i just dont want to put a huge amount of time into it. i just want it to be one solid black and not have the paint be flaking in a month. so if i get a cheap spray gun, can i use the same one for some primer and some paint? and what specifically should i put in the gun?

 

[larry4406]

Use a $20 HF HVLP spray gun and some thinned down Rustolem. Cheap and will look a lot better than a rattle can job.

Hot Rod Magazine did this on a 68 camero a few months back. came out pretty good.

 

[eric_koski]

You can't get much cheaper than this:
http://rolledon.forummotion.com/

 

[wornoutoldman]

Got a Maaco or something similiar nearby? Do the body prep and taping yourself and they can shoot you a decent paint job pretty cheap.

 

[ford.crazy]

Funny thing you should ask this now. I painted my plow truck after fixing the floors and cab corners a few weeks ago. I used farm implement paint (tractor paint). You can get it from Tractor supply (TSC) cheap. I forget what the primer cost. I think I paid around $50 for the gallon of paint. $20 for the can of hardener and around $20 for the gallon of naphtha to thin the paint. I also used a HF spray gun. Think it was about $30. I used the same gun for primer and paint. I also used the same paint and gun for my car trailer, just finished painting that yesterday. Both look great for what they are and what they were painted with. I consider them a 50/50 paint job, 50 mph or 50 foot away no one will ever tell what paint you used or see any imperfections.

I will say the key to a good paint job is the prep work, spraying it was the fast and easy part.

 

[jonb347]

car isnt entirely legal and closesy maaco is 45 minutes away. i guess ill try a gun and get some thinner, hardener, and paint

 

[sanddan]

lol interesting mix of comments. i have a paint booth already in my project room, i have no problem prepping and whatnot, i just dont want to put a huge amount of time into it. i just want it to be one solid black and not have the paint be flaking in a month. so if i get a cheap spray gun, can i use the same one for some primer and some paint? and what specifically should i put in the gun?

Interesting, you have a paint booth but not a paint gun.

The least amount of work that still comes out good is.

1. Scuff the paint and/or strip to bare metal,
2. Use etching primer, I use the spray can version for small jobs.
3. Spray with an epoxy sealer style primer such as PPG DP90 (flat black).

This will be water proof and will last quite a while. There is really no substitute for the prep work if you don't wan't to just do the work all over at a later date. If you just plan on selling it ASAP then rattle can will work. The next guy will just have to sand it all off before doing any other work.

 

[gonefirefighting]

it all comes down to the amount of time and patience you have.

a can of white with some thinner and a wagner power painter and a good buff on the clear

will produce this (after 4 months of daily driving)

The key is elbow grease

 

[countryroad82]

For cheap, quick, and dirty. Nail it with 80, 180, 220 with a DA. Prime with el cheapo laquer primer, sand with 320 on the DA. Use Rustoleum flat black, on the last coat I like to thin it a little more than reccomended as it will lay down much smoother. Granted this is NOT what I would do for a super nice job, but to just make it look better than it does and have it all one color, it will fit the bill. This is pretty well how I have done my race cars in the past and it did all I wanted, look good and cheap!!

 

[MP&C]

SPI makes flat black epoxy with UV inhibitors.

This is about the best suggestion yet. I can't see someone doing a rattle can paint job and then spending the money for Shelby parts, only to have paint adhesion issues later. Lacquer primer may be fine for the race car, but I wouldn't recommend it as a starting platform for todays urethanes/basecoats, you're likely to have shrinking/adhesion/compatibility issues. So why use something you'll have to come back later and sand off?

With proper prep, the epoxy will give you a good starting point, and when you're ready to spray the good stuff down the road after your body mods, scuff it and go.

 

[jonb347]

This is about the best suggestion yet. I can't see someone doing a rattle can paint job and then spending the money for Shelby parts, only to have paint adhesion issues later. Lacquer primer may be fine for the race car, but I wouldn't recommend it as a starting platform for todays urethanes/basecoats, you're likely to have shrinking/adhesion/compatibility issues. So why use something you'll have to come back later and sand off?

With proper prep, the epoxy will give you a good starting point, and when you're ready to spray the good stuff down the road after your body mods, scuff it and go.

what i meant is that someday when finances are better i am doing the full body with new body parts and a professional paint job

 

[MP&C]

..and by using a quality epoxy like SPI, you won't have to do that part again. Some of the other suggestions may require sanding back down to metal in order to spray with professional paints.

 

[countryroad82]

..and by using a quality epoxy like SPI, you won't have to do that part again. Some of the other suggestions may require sanding back down to metal in order to spray with professional paints.

In my suggestion I was thinking the OP would do a correct resto on the car in the future. IMO correct resto requires stripping the car to the bare metal so there is no chance of any old paint/ primer/ crappy previous bodywork coming back to haunt you a year after you spend the $$$$$ for paint/ bodywork. Most of the cars that I have done work on that are 20+ years old I strip them regardless of the condition of the paint already there, you never know what is hiding underneath, and it is my name on the line when I am charging thousands of dollars for restoration work I just don't take the chance. Cheers

 

[78Bird]

This is about the best suggestion yet. I can't see someone doing a rattle can paint job and then spending the money for Shelby parts, only to have paint adhesion issues later. Lacquer primer may be fine for the race car, but I wouldn't recommend it as a starting platform for todays urethanes/basecoats, you're likely to have shrinking/adhesion/compatibility issues. So why use something you'll have to come back later and sand off?

With proper prep, the epoxy will give you a good starting point, and when you're ready to spray the good stuff down the road after your body mods, scuff it and go.

I agree as well. SPI black will hold up great and looks pretty good if you like matte black, plus if you make sure to CLEAN OFF THE RUST first it's a great base for future bodywork and better paint.

I specify black because though SPI sells other colors of top quality epoxy, only the black gets UV inhibitors to make to last in prolonged sunlight.

Do this now, and you won't have to strip and re-do it when you're ready for real paint.

 

[kmacht]

If you decide to shoot it yourself just be carefull in what paint you use. Alot of the newer stuff will kill you if you start breathing while spraying. Just a cheap charcoal respirator from the hardware store won't necessarilly protect you.

Keith

 

[jonb347]

ya i have a respirator, i do a lot of painting just never a car body haha. im sure it will go down to bare metal someday but i still like what you guys are saying about the spi stuff. anybody have any good sources for it?

 

[KPSquared]

You say this. . .

i just dont want to put a huge amount of time into it.

But the best advice you have received is this. . .

it all comes down to the amount of time and patience you have.

The key is elbow grease

You're not going to get paint to stick and not look like complete garbage without some hard work, specially if you have no money. Usually the cost savings means a lot of hard work.

you're basically saying, "I'm lazy and broke but I want to preserve this classic car"

you have two choices, stop being lazy, or stop being broke. . .one is easier to do.

 

[jonb347]

when i say huge amount of time i don't mean no work, i mean i dont want to sand the whole thing down to metal and two multiple layers of clearcoat etc etc, ive done that and thats not what im doing with this at the moment, and when I do ill have a professional do it

 

[MatthewM]

Got a Maaco or something similiar nearby? Do the body prep and taping yourself and they can shoot you a decent paint job pretty cheap.

That's good advice if you can swing it. I did that with my first mustang. I did the majority of the prep work, removed the chrome, and trim, and then drove it over to an Earl Scheib following behind someone. I never had any problems with the cops along the way, and the paint turned out pretty good. They had a few sags here and there, but the paint was tough and looked pretty good even from 5 feet. Definitely worth the $200 I paid. When I sold the car the new owners(not really car people) were in love with the paint.

-Matt

 

[FriendOfYours]

Go down to the local tech school and pay a kid twenty bucks to let you use his discount at a body store. Sometimes you can find cheap OMNI AU on ebay as well

$150 of OMNI will last you a decade if not longer

A crappy job will cost you a lot more time in the long run. You can have the whole car prepped and shot in two days if you keep a quick pace. Get a buddy to help you tape and sand

You HAVE to make sure your mask can do isocyanates. All of them say you can't but the 6001 can handle it. SHAVE YOUR FACE! You have to have a ton of air flowing through your booth or the cartridges will be toast in an hour. The life of a cartridge is 40 hours after opening. If you have to take a break, vacuum seal them because moisture in the air will break down the organics.

 

[Lhorn]

Damn, that Corvair looks awesome for a car painted with Rustoleum through a Wagner power painter. White will hide a lot of sins so it's a good color choice for the OP.
I had a friend paint a car with Rustoleum (black) and a roller with a lot of wet sanding. To be honest it looked better than nothing, but looked like a beater paint job.

 

[hdridinas1]

I bought a base coat/clear coat kit with 6 quarts sprayable for $250, and spent $150 on Primer at a local paint shop. I got self etching primer, so I could have spent less on that. I also painted door jambs, etc as I did a color change. The paint is also a pearl, so that could have been cheaper if I would have gotten just a straight up color.

 

[FastKat]

Don't expect all that much if you're not going to take your time prepping the car for paint. 95% of a good paint job is in the prep work - it's by far the hardest and most time consuming part. You do not have to take the whole thing down to bare metal to prep it properly.

If you want a rough temporary paint job, that's totally fine and acceptable - especially on a hot rod! Just make sure you set your expectations appropriately.

i have no problem prepping and whatnot, i just dont want to put a huge amount of time into it.

 

[jonb347]

my expectations are low trust me lol. i decided im just going to rattlecan it. im going to sand it down as much as possible and use etching primer and some semigloss black duplicolor. then in a few years when i have more money for it i will have it done right...

 

[hdridinas1]

I have been told that you only need ething primer is spraying on bare metal, I was told this by the shop that I bought my paint supplies from when I painted my Blazer. You might want to look into primer/sealer. For a while when I was doing body work on my Blazer, shaving things etc, I used rattle can primer and found that the primer/sealer looked/held up the best the best and did not get rust through like the regular primer did.\


I have also heard that black and semi/flat paints show imperfections very easily so the body work has to be very straight. if not, you may see every little dent, blemish there is.

 

[jonb347]

ill look into the primer sealer thanks. im not worried about the dents showing thru at the moment, geez at this point maybe ill just undercoat the whole dang thing lol

 

[hdridinas1]

Look around for Black primer/sealer then you will only have to spray that instead of the primer and then a top coat. The sealer is not porous like plain primer, so you are ok without a top coat for a while. I would only rock the sealer as a top coat if the car stays cept for cruising around.

 

[jonb347]

it drives me to work and back, occasionally to walmart. it will be in rain but never any snow or salt or anything. where would i find black primer sealer? duplicolor only makes gray..also, stumbled across a universal krylon called dual, its a primer/paint...what do you guys think? it would save me some dough. think it would last ok if i prep it good?