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Car Ramps

autobon7

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
730
I've had the Rhino ramps for 10 years with no issues. Had a 87 and my current 95 Toyota Landcruiser on them many many times. That's about 5500 lbs. I always give them a visual once-over before using them, other than knocking the cob webs out of all the little squares on the underside they have been great. Was using them last summer, have never gave a **** about the webs, and this big a## spider come sliding out while I was in a contorted position and couldn't retreat. Funny now but not funny when you are laying there with this spider about 6 inches from your nose. :scared: Ask anyone who has these, those little squares are like little spider condos :lol_hitti
 
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sselander

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
2,041
Location
CT
Rhino has great support service.

I called them because the rubber pads kept coming off.
I suggested to Rhino to mold some bumps on the ramp to hold them.
She suggested gluing them on and they sent me 2 new ones, no charge.
I used little zip-ties to hold them in place.
 

amolaver

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Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
834
i just had to resuscitate this thread :) my trailer is not dovetailed, so to unload, i usually raise the nose of it waaaay high. the powered jack seems to have bit the bullet, so i thought i'd give the rhino ramps a workout. that's my 8500lb dually with the 2K lb tongue weight of the trailer on it (load distribution arms are not hooked up). color me impressed.

ahm
 

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amolaver

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Mar 10, 2009
Messages
834
the trailer weighs 13K lb but its nose heavy so tongue weight is somewhere around 2K w/o the bars hooked up. i was expecting them to fail - that is a LOT of weight on there.

ahm
 

ImportTuner

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
5,855
Location
SF Bay Area
Rhino has great support service.

I called them because the rubber pads kept coming off.
I suggested to Rhino to mold some bumps on the ramp to hold them.
She suggested gluing them on and they sent me 2 new ones, no charge.
I used little zip-ties to hold them in place.

Any pictures of how you zip-tied them? Thanks
 

countryroad82

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
3,447
Location
Kentucky
After almost getting killed because of a set of ramps, I won't own any. Invest in a good jack and quality jackstands.
 

CLee0507

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
103
An older gentleman I know has scars where a car fell on his chest when a set of ramps failed. Luckily he was not killed. That was way back and with the old metal type ones. Those black rhino ones look very impressive though. I should get a set since I always find a 2x4 to drive my Tercel on to just get my drip pan under it, and even then its tight just to get the drain plug off over the pan so I don't drip anything.

Wanted to also add that I try to never get completely under the car in that situation. Always just my arms to reach things, it makes me leary. The mechanic in our truck shop always used to say never get under anything (on stands or ramps) without at least having a jack there where it could be lifted off of you in a hurry. I've tried to live by that.
 
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Skin

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Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Messages
11,713
Location
Boston
After almost getting killed because of a set of ramps, I won't own any. Invest in a good jack and quality jackstands.

I'd trust a set of ramps with an amateur before i'd give them a jack and jack stands. The former is idiot proof and safer. If a jack stand fails suddenly it will often kick out the other(s), the odds of both ramps going are basically nill. Plus for someone who just wants to make oil changes easier it makes no financial sense to spend hundreds for a jack and stands.
 
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baucom

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Joined
Jul 1, 2009
Messages
189
People who've been nearly killed by a failed jack stand generally say the same about those. Anyone who survives a vehicle support failing is lucky to still be here.

After almost getting killed because of a set of ramps, I won't own any. Invest in a good jack and quality jackstands.

I've used a set of 12K Rhino Ramps for 5 yrs now and they're holding up fine. Usually I just use them for oil changes on the wife's car--formerly Pontiac Grand Prix, now Chevy Equinox--which isn't really a challenge for the 12K ramps. I've driven my Titan up on them a couple of times when I just wanted a little more room underneath and I'm still here to tell about it so they did what they were supposed to. I'd buy them again in a heartbeat if I needed a set of ramps.
 

plung

Banned
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
562
Location
N. Cali
Anyone have the Harbor Freight plastic ramps?

Magnum-16000 Auto Ramp Set with Built-In Safety Chock $40

Description
Get the clearance you need to do oil changes, general maintenance and repairs beneath your vehicle. Engineered reinforced construction handles up to four tons.

Integrated safety chock reduces risk of roll-back
Ramps take-down easily for storage
Diamond tread for maximum traction
Rugged high-impact construction, will not rust

Easy assembly. Recommended to use additional chocks (sold separately) for wheels on the ground.
Capacity: 8000 lbs. combined (16,000 lb. gross vehicle weight)
Lift: 6"
Features: Integrated safety chock
Maximum Tire Width: 7-1/4"
http://www.harborfreight.com/magnum-16000-auto-ramp-set-with-built-in-safety-chock-67722.html

image_14312.jpg


This one will be easier to store because you can break it down.
 

lwlobo

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
1,076
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
I have black Rhino ramps and they pretty well. No problems strength wise.

I have three issues with them, I'm wondering if any of you have solutions to recommend.

1) I've misplaced one of the rubber pads. I just emailed them and hopefully they'll send another one out. I glued the remaining pad in, and will glue the replacement in as well.

2) Even though they are low profile, my Mazda 5 hits the bumper before the tires start up the ramp, so I have to use a 2x6 to get up a bit first. My BMW 325i just barely clears.

3) Even with the rubber pads underneath, they still want to slip. Getting up on the ramps is hairy, especially with a rear wheel drive vehicle.

Any ideas? Thanks!
 
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KPSquared

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Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Messages
2,750
Location
Wetaskiwin, Alberta, Canada
I built my own. Hold up my diesel Super Duty no problem, and enough clearance to get my old Mazda 3 on.

can't find a finished pic. Put 1/8 inch checker plate on, a little more bracing and castors on one end to make them easy to move.

DadsRamps.jpg
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,666
Location
Southeast
I would never trust my life to something plastic! That's why I use steel jackstands made by Chinese convicts in a hurry. :bounce:

But seriously, I've used Rhino ramps since they came out. That might be almost 20 years ago. They cost more then. I've since bought another pair. I just plain like ramps.

One peculiar fellow on GJ a few months back posted pics of his Greyhound-type bus front tires up on plastic ramps while he fiddled with the steering gear. :shocking:
 

bluebolt

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
5,435
Location
Benton LA
Anyone have the Harbor Freight plastic ramps?

Magnum-16000 Auto Ramp Set with Built-In Safety Chock $40

Description
Get the clearance you need to do oil changes, general maintenance and repairs beneath your vehicle. Engineered reinforced construction handles up to four tons.

Integrated safety chock reduces risk of roll-back
Ramps take-down easily for storage
Diamond tread for maximum traction
Rugged high-impact construction, will not rust

Easy assembly. Recommended to use additional chocks (sold separately) for wheels on the ground.
Capacity: 8000 lbs. combined (16,000 lb. gross vehicle weight)
Lift: 6"
Features: Integrated safety chock
Maximum Tire Width: 7-1/4"
This one will be easier to store because you can break it down.

And made in the USA!
 

ImportTuner

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
5,855
Location
SF Bay Area
Anyone have the Harbor Freight plastic ramps?

Magnum-16000 Auto Ramp Set with Built-In Safety Chock $40

Description
Get the clearance you need to do oil changes, general maintenance and repairs beneath your vehicle. Engineered reinforced construction handles up to four tons.

Integrated safety chock reduces risk of roll-back
Ramps take-down easily for storage
Diamond tread for maximum traction
Rugged high-impact construction, will not rust

Easy assembly. Recommended to use additional chocks (sold separately) for wheels on the ground.
Capacity: 8000 lbs. combined (16,000 lb. gross vehicle weight)
Lift: 6"
Features: Integrated safety chock
Maximum Tire Width: 7-1/4"
http://www.harborfreight.com/magnum-16000-auto-ramp-set-with-built-in-safety-chock-67722.html

This one will be easier to store because you can break it down.

Went to the HF link and looked at the reviews .. not good at all

Would not even hold my honda civic up as soon as i drove my car up them they crushed just the honda going up on them could not even think of driving my explorer up them and harbor freight would do nothing about them i know the honda civic is not more then maybe 2000 pounds and thats the who car.

Plastic showing cracks.

I used them once and they held my car well. In the morning I noticed cracks on the part were the tire sits. I would not trust these especially since there supposed to hold thousands and thousands of ponds. Sad that these are USA made. I will return then tomorrow. Buy at your own risk.

I have tried to use ramps for years and they always slip. I like the stability of a ramp, so I end up lifting up the vehicle w/ a floorjack and putting the ramp under the tire instead of just driving on it. This product worked perfect the first time and every time.

I prefer these over the metal ones. Even in light of the issues with them. The plastic around the edges cracks really easy if you drop it. They are also easy to work with And I prefer the plastic ones over the metal kind for weekend oil changes.
If I were you, I would buy some expanding foam and fill up the open areas with this and then not have to worry about the outside plastic cracking. If yours do, use foam and fiberglass to do repairs.

I bought a set of these. They were very difficult to use. On one occassion, they flew out from underneath the car as I was driving up on them. The car fell 11 inches on top of them damaging the undercarriage. Get one of the jacks and a set of jack stands, instead. Those are much easer and safer to use.

Seems to be well made. Feels strong. Time will tell but I think I will be happy
 

sselander

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
2,041
Location
CT
I got something at Advance Auto and on the receipt it mentioned the 8,000 lb Rhino ramps were on sale for $24.99 until April 25.

If you lose the rubber pads for the ramps, Rhino will send you free replacements.
I zip-tied mine to the ramps.
 

sselander

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
2,041
Location
CT
zip-tied Rhino pads, I used the thin zip-ties.

These have held up for several years. I have a spare set from Rhino, no charge for the spares. (call them up)

Any pictures of how you zip-tied them? Thanks
 

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Macgyver_ga

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2011
Messages
265
Location
Canton, GA
I have a set of rhino ramps that I think I've had for about 10 years now. They work great. The only thing I don't like is they slip a little on a smooth concrete floor.

I don't use them much anymore because I drive a lifted Tacoma so I can do oil changes and stuff without having to jack it up or use ramps.
 

cgv69

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
1,033
Location
Boone Co., KY
I'd never trust plastic ramps with my life. Built me a set of wooden ones.
Yeah, me neither. I would never trust something designed by engineers who know how to calculate material strength, load ratings, stress factors, etc.. Instead I'll just build my own with my vast (aka = 0) amount of engineering experience.

Just to make it interesting I'll use pine (one of the weakest and least stable woods) and then lay them flat so they can split instead of on their sides which know to be their strongest orientation.
 

PT Doc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
3,197
Yeah, me neither. I would never trust something designed by engineers who know how to calculate material strength, load ratings, stress factors, etc.. Instead I'll just build my own with my vast (aka = 0) amount of engineering experience.

Just to make it interesting I'll use pine (one of the weakest and least stable woods) and then lay them flat so they can split instead of on their sides which know to be their strongest orientation.

Seems like reasonable reasoning.
;)
 

ldim

Active member
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
33
Race Ramps....they are actually worth the price. But you have to use them to know that.
 

honda.lioness

New member
Joined
Sep 1, 2015
Messages
1
I have gray Rhino Ramps. Recently I lost the hard rubber pad on one of them. I made a new one from a hard rubber sanding block I bought at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-78-in-soft-rubber-sanding-block-69574.html . See photo. It is very close to the right height, the right angle, and the correct hardness of rubber. I cut it with a sharp Baker's/Chef's knife. I dug out the central section of the hole with the knife. I used a 3/4-inch drill bit to do the final reaming, rotating it only by hand and not with a power drill. I put zip ties through the holes of the pads so I would not lose them.

While searching for an alternate pad, I also came upon a youtube video that shows why one should not use the rhino ramps on gravel. The gravel is too uneven and tends to improperly stress the ramps.
 

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