Car trailer plans?
- Thread starter squash468
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JJThrasher
Well-known member
I really would bother buying plans. You can learn what you need to on the various forums. Just copy someone else's design that looks and works how you want.
Farrier
Well-known member
When I built my first trailer years ago, I marched myself down to a trailer dealer with tape measure and camera in hand.
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tlmartin84
Well-known member
I just re-built one.
I would recommend buying new or slightly used if I had it to do over.........Fot the money and time, I don't think it was worth it.
I would recommend buying new or slightly used if I had it to do over.........Fot the money and time, I don't think it was worth it.
I used these free plans from champion trailer supply to build my 5x10...
http://eurovan.synthasite.com/resources/UTILITY_TRAILER_KITS.pdf
they will send you the catalog free or you can download it.
http://eurovan.synthasite.com/resources/UTILITY_TRAILER_KITS.pdf
they will send you the catalog free or you can download it.
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Ign
Well-known member
If you do it please do a build thread along w costs. When I've looked at this I could only beat production trailers by $100-200, assuming my time was free.
Not trying to discourage you, just curious how it works out for someone else.
Not trying to discourage you, just curious how it works out for someone else.
aka Larry
Well-known member
+1. I built my own utility trailer, and while it was built better than one I could buy at Lowes, it was not cheaper. That doesn't even count the ton of time I put into building it. That said, I built my own because I like to build things and I enjoyed doing it, not because I wanted to save money.
I did mine way cheaper than I could buy, and built it much heavier duty. but then I collected scrap, got used steel, auction axles, yard sales, etc. buying everything new has pretty much always been proven to cost more.
j-guenth
Well-known member
I worked for a city and we built our own trailers. We took existing measurements from local companies that sell trailers and modified the measurements to meet our needs.
One critical area is the placement of the axle or axles to the receiver. You need tongue weight for the trailer to tow straight.
We took the measurements and chaulked these measurements on the concrete floor.
What is nice about those trailers we could modify to our needs.
One critical area is the placement of the axle or axles to the receiver. You need tongue weight for the trailer to tow straight.
We took the measurements and chaulked these measurements on the concrete floor.
What is nice about those trailers we could modify to our needs.
Thanks everyone. A new 18' wood floored unit is close to $3k before NC taxes. I think I can do this for half. Plus it's my own accomplishment. I'm going to price all the material in the upcoming week & drop a line on what I decide to do. Thanks again. SL.
NoPressure
Well-known member
I purchased a 20' car hauler, wood floor, dove tail, dual brakes for $2000 used but like new. I thought I did not need a 20' but it sure makes positioning the load for balance easy.
Unless you have or get a good guy price on the steel it hard to build your own. The trailer builders are buy $50-$100k of steel at time.
Unless you have or get a good guy price on the steel it hard to build your own. The trailer builders are buy $50-$100k of steel at time.
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nerraw117
Well-known member
What part of nc are you in?
NoPressure
Well-known member
that was a new one for $1500
https://www.muddywatersoffroad.com/collections/trailer-inventory/products/82x18-wood-car-hauler
Well that was easy.
NoPressure
Well-known member
There's definitely nicer car haulers out there with all the bells and whistles but can't beat that price. I'm gonna add catwalks down the sides eventually and about to order some leds to use as reverse lights.
Whiskeymike
Well-known member
I have the need of a general trailer for hauling yard trash, to material like plate or angle in long sticks, and occasionally need to haul a vehicle. Is it better to get a car hauler or a flat bed wood floor trailer like above?
I have a 18 foot wood deck car hauler that will be going away soon, I rarely haul cars so I want a deck over to make loading and unloading easier. Can't count the number of times we have had to **** around trying to load something heavy over the axles with the fenders in the way.
The new one will be a deck over 5th wheel with a 20 foot deck and possibly a 2 foot beaver tail or a 16 foot deck with a 6 foot hydraulic beaver tail.
stuk4x4
Active member
I have built several dual axels. I also have repaired several production trailers. A Couple of things that I would offer when building a trailer; 1. Over build, people rarely consider how much they are putting on a trailer and include the weight of the trailer in the equation. 2. a lot of people own a “welder” but that doesn’t make it qualified to perform the welds needed on road worthy trailer (heat, penetration). 90% of the trailers I have repaired, the welds looked like bird **** and were somehow holding together. But when they fail from overstress or rust out, you don’t want to be in the car behind it when it happens.
Having said all that here are a few things I have found helpful on dual axel trailers. If at all possible do a deck over your tires, eliminate fenders. if you aren’t picky about looks use rough cut oak, it is very durable and can be re coated several times over. Put as many stake pockets as you can on the sides, they make great tie down points and you can never have too many. I recommend a dove tail. Plus it allows you to step up on the trailer with more ease. Removable ramps that store under the trailer are always a plus as opposed to ramps that are attached on a pipe or hinge that is not easily removed; they tend to get in the way if you are trying to haul something that is at the length limit of your trailer. I also would reinforce a winch plate at the front of the trailer for future winch application. Weld a piece of conduit on the bottom of the frame and run all your wires through it, you never will worry about them getting caught on anything. If I were building dual axel trailer I would not compare the price cost of new or custom built. I would spend the money one time to have it exactly how I thought it would fit my needs best. Realistically it will long out last the POS that is sold for half the price.
Just a few thoughts based on my experience.
Where are you in NC?
Stuk4x4
Having said all that here are a few things I have found helpful on dual axel trailers. If at all possible do a deck over your tires, eliminate fenders. if you aren’t picky about looks use rough cut oak, it is very durable and can be re coated several times over. Put as many stake pockets as you can on the sides, they make great tie down points and you can never have too many. I recommend a dove tail. Plus it allows you to step up on the trailer with more ease. Removable ramps that store under the trailer are always a plus as opposed to ramps that are attached on a pipe or hinge that is not easily removed; they tend to get in the way if you are trying to haul something that is at the length limit of your trailer. I also would reinforce a winch plate at the front of the trailer for future winch application. Weld a piece of conduit on the bottom of the frame and run all your wires through it, you never will worry about them getting caught on anything. If I were building dual axel trailer I would not compare the price cost of new or custom built. I would spend the money one time to have it exactly how I thought it would fit my needs best. Realistically it will long out last the POS that is sold for half the price.
Just a few thoughts based on my experience.
Where are you in NC?
Stuk4x4
Farrier
Well-known member
NoPressure
Well-known member
kerrynzl
Well-known member
4" C-channel frame?
4" C channel is OK with a wooden deck because all the planks will contribute to the beaming strength [especially if they were glued together]
On a steel deck trailer there is very little beaming strength in the deck, so a taller frame rail is required
Considering that steel is sold by weight, the manufacturer would have been better off using 4"x2" x1/8"wall tubing.
It would have higher beaming strength, better torsional strength, and lighter weight. [and easier to fabricate]
I've built 4x2 tube ladder frame trailers that can take a 6500lb payload.
This is why the OP is better off building his own trailer instead of buying a "built to profit" piece of ****
I'm in Lincolnton, 20 minutes outside of Charlotte. I've got access to professional equipment & operator if need be. I grew up in the middle of my old mans welding/fab business. I will agree to the quality of work that can be found.... Short cuts aren't an option. I will gather my materials list & see where I stand. This is something that I would love to accomplish, but it just might be cost effective to buy a factory built unit. Kaufman Trailers facility is about an our away. I plan on checking them out in the next week or so. Thanks for the response. SL.
Chris_the_wrench
Well-known member
What's involved with getting a homebuilt trailer licensed? Do you just tow it down to the dmv for an inspection?
Chris
Chris
stuk4x4
Active member
SL, sounds like you have everything under control, you just have to make the hard decision of whether you do it yourself or not. It's is always very rewarding when you complete a project that you build from the ground up and use it for years. I am down on the coast by Wilmington.
Stuk4x4
Stuk4x4