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Car Wash/Wax Suggestions

W_KY

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Bowling Green, KY
Well I just bought a new truck (GMC Sierra SLE Crewcab 4x4......color: think they call it granite blue) and shortly I will need to give it a washing and possibly waxing). I grew up on a farm and have always had rougher vehicles that didn't get very much attention. I can honestly say I never saw my dad wash or wax any vehicle. While I have washed and waxed a couple vehicles before, I'm sure there are better ways than others. Waxing in particular is what I feel I know less about. I'm also feel confident that the products/tools/methods used make a huge difference. I just want to make sure I'm doing a good job and don't do anything to mess it up in the future. Any resources you have on the topic would also be appreciated. I know Meguiars is good name in the area and I see that they have "how to's" on their website. I thought a similar topic was discussed on here a while back but I was unable to find the thread searching (maybe in free parking)

Any suggestions on particular products/methods? How often should it need waxing? Do I need to wax right after buying or will it have wax from the factory?
 
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Bojans

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Congrats on the new truck

Try a product like Menzerna or Klasse, these are polymer sealants, not waxes and will last much longer and provide better protection. I do my vehicles with Menzerna FMJ 2-3x per year and they stay looking great. If you use a carnuba wax based product plan on waxing monthly to keep the protection in tact.

I would suggest getting a sealant on there soon before the road grime starts to contaminate the paint surface. You won't need a mechanical polisher yet since the vehicle it new and there shouldn't be much if any contamination or imperfections to remove.

Take a look at Autogeek.net
 
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memento

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for something you can probably get at WalMart, I'd recommend Meguire's NXT 2.0.

For my BMW and my Crossfire, I use specifically Klasse All In One followed by several very thin layers of Klasse Sealant Glaze. The sealant glaze is acrylic based, lasts a very long time, and gives a great shine. And by a very long time, I mean for my BMW it will still bead water after 3 months as my daily driver. For my Crossfire, I only drive it on sunny days and keep it in the garage. It has so far lasted over a year.
 

logical

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The best thing you can do is to use a clay bar once a year prior to a wax job. It is used along with a spray quick detail product and will clean all the grittiness that washing won't and leave a much smoother finish to wax.

Meguires sells a kit with the bar and a bottle of the spray or you can order them separately from the online retailers. You basically wet the surface with the spray and then just rub the bar back and forth over the surface...it removes tar (although if you have a lot of tar, strip it off with a tar remover or you will foul the bar), sap, and road grime.

Just some basics for washing: Buy the good name brand car wash soap, not the cheap stuiff in a gallon jug and certainly not dish soap and use very little in vaery warm water. fill the bucket full enough so you aren't dipping into the dirt settled on the bottom. I like the big micro-fiber covered sponges for washing. Buy a bulk pack of microfiber towels at sam's and use them for everything and only wah them separately gentle cycle and never use dryer sheets.
I am by no means a fanatic but all my stuff gets washed at least weekly and fully detailed several times a year.
 
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flyersfanjd

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For wash method:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7598756069207401372#
*Some folks double up on the grit guards for a 2x4 method

For products:
Shops
A second nod to Autogeek.net/
DetailedImage.com/
DetailersDomain.com/

Products
Car wash
ONR
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss

Wax
Optimum spray wax
Wolfgang Fuzion

For more than you ever wanted to know
Autopia.org

There are a lot of really nice products out there. I guess it depends on your time, budget, & preferences. Do you have time to wash, clay, polish, seal, & wax? Do you care if you have swirls in the paint?

Enjoy your new truck!
 

Dan in Pasadena

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Do what logical said. Always wash it in the shade and the paint is cool. Never use a car wash if you can avoid it. For someone who is an adult and has rarely ever washed a car (!) and had a father who NEVER washed a car (!!!!!) you have a learning curve to overcome. But let me tell you this: IF you do what logical says and use the products recommended that truck's paint CAN look good as new when it has 300-400,000 miles on it. Yes; no exaggeration.
 

shotgunfatcat

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Don't forget to wash and wax in the shade. As stated above, using a clay bar is great, but you shouldn't have to do it right away on a new car. If you are looking to get into this, I would suggest getting mothers (or equivalent) chrome polish, most decent car soap won't leave a residue so any good brand, but turtle makes car soap called ICE (http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,1,1,1) as well as wax, bars, and what not. The Ice products are really nice for newer vehicles. If you have hard water, try finding a mr. clean car wash thingy, it has a filter in it to reduce water spots, and works well.

A product to make it go faster is a car squeegee, they work great. Also, if you have never used Rain-X, I think anyone who has used it loves it. Just make sure to follow the directions or it doesn't work as well.

That was a lot of product pitching, think I would be a salesman or something.

I detailed cars for a few years in my life, new and old, and sometimes too old. most upper end products work great, they all apply a bit differently, so find something you like, a spray wax doesn't last as long as a compound, multiple coats are good, circular motion when washing and waxing are key, and watch plastic with some compounds, it may dry white on them, and it is a pain to get off.

Don't forget about the wheels and tires. It may take you an hour to wash and wax your car, but it lasts weeks, and makes the vehicle last longer.
 

Matt M PA

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I too use Klasse AIO, has a mild cleaner and lasts a good while. Zaino also not makes an AIO type product that is excellent.

I'd also suggest using clay first, after the wash of course. I use a mixture of one cap of car wash soap along with about 24-32 ounces of water. I like using a plant mister for this.

For the first wash, or a wash prior to waxing...I use Dawn. There are some that think this is a problem...but it's fine for this. It will strip wax and grease, etc that are on the finish. Rinse well. Once waxed, use a good quality car soap.

I'd also not wait weeks to wax. Today's paints are catalyzed, so by the time your vehicle reaches the dealership...it's ready. In fact, my 2005 Excursion was waxed the first weekend it was home...and I picked it up the day it arrived at the dealership. (It was ordered) I was amazed at the amount of crud the clay removed...rail dust and the like.

I remember how the dealers would tell new customers to wait 6 weeks to wax their car....but were also able to sell a paint protection package right away.
 

Scout Driver

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South Dakota
If you are looking for a less-expensive, readily available wax that you can buy at Wal-Mart, Target, etc., try Nu Finish. Its a synthetic polymer sealer. We have used it for many years on many vehicles and its been great. Excellent protection from oxidation and the elements. Stands up to frequent washing well. Easy application too.

Scott
 

sgrammel

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Don't forget the polish before the wax. The polish is what shines the paint. There are many pure polishes that have no cleaning or abrasives. Also many that are plishis with cleaners/abrasives. Don't sweat the abrasives much...unless you get something inteneded for professionals the consumer stuff is very light in the abrasives area....but will take out the minor swirls, defects, etc. Wax won't do that.

The wax protects the finish.

You can find tons of useful informaton here

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/index.php
 

Dan in Pasadena

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Do you guys pressure wash before hand wash?

NO!!!!

Not unless you've been bounding over country roads full of mud. Then, yes on the undercarriage but don't get in the habit of pressure washing paint. It's fast, but you're just DRIVING the grit into the paint and in my opinion, probably breaking down the paint film long term even with regular waxing...and I wax often.
 

mmhouse

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Well, as you've seen already you're going to get LOTS of opinions on this subject. :)

I've had excellent luck with a product called Rejex. It is a sealant, not a wax. What I particularly like about it is that it lasts a long time...up to a year...especially if you use it regularly and it goes on and comes off pretty easily. That's not just their hype but has been my experience since I purchased a new car 4-1/2 years ago.

Here is their web page....

http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html

You can buy it at many TruValue hardware stores and probably online.

The key is to start with a clean slate. First, wash the vehicle with dish detergent like Dawn to get any dirt/grime off and strip off any existing wax that you or a dealer may have applied. If you want the very best results, the second step is to pick up a Meguiar's clay bar kit and go over the vehicle with that following their directions (it's not as difficult or time consuming as it may first appear) and then wash it again. Third, apply the Rejex to the vehicle when it's cool, let it dry to a haze and wipe it off. The final step is to keep it out of the sun overnight while it cures.

I'd suggest two coats to begin with. After that, an application every year or so will keep your new vehicle looking great.

FYI, the bane of dark colors (other than fading) are swirls. Keeping a good coat of sealant on the vehicle and washing only by hand with a clean rag will go a long way toward minimizing swirls. Taking a vehicle through automatic car washes is guaranteed to maximize them.

If my vehicle is very dirty I quickly hit it with a power wash (not getting too close with the wand) to get the bulk of the dirt off before washing it with a rag. The more dirt you rub around with the rag the more likely you are to create swirls. Of course, if it doesn't get real dirty between hand washes this isn't necessary.

Some will say that power washing damages the finish but I haven't found this to be the case as long as you don't go overboard (wand too close) and make sure there is sealant is on the paint before power washing.

Enjoy your new truck! :beer:
 
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kymatt

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Some good advice here. I'll weigh in on what has kept my paint largely swirl free and looking like new over the past 200k:
(1) Avoid car washes unless it's winter time and you're trying to get salt and other grime off. Then go to the touch free washes.
(2) When you wash your car, use the two bucket method. One bucket = soapy water, other bucket = clean water used for rinse. You'll be amazed by how much dirt this will keep from being reapplied on your car.
(3) Use a quality car wash. All of the Meguiars stuff available locally are good. I like the NXT wash.
(4) Use a quality applicator to clean - I like the synthetic mits. Wash from top to bottom, one panel at a time.
(5) I prefer to dry with a waffle weave towel. Not a fan of squegees as previously mentioned - one missed spec of dirt can end up getting drug across your car's finish.
(6) Clay bar 2x/yr (spring/fall) prior to waxing. Make sure you follow the instructions by applying some sort of lubricant (usually supplied) prior to clay bar.
(7) Wax 2x/yr. If you follow the method above you should'nt need to polish much to remove swirls. Sealants generally give you good, durable results, and are generally easier to apply than carnubas. Some expensive brands were thrown out earlier, but there are quality waxes available at local places from Meguiars, Mothers, and Duragloss (my favorite.)
(8) When waxing, you want the paint to be clean, cool, and out of the sun. Focus on light, even coverage, not quantity of product. Make sure to let it set up (haze) before you remove.

Hope this helps.
 
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Boiler

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Some good advice here. I'll weigh in on what has kept my paint largely swirl free and looking like new over the past 200k:
(1) Avoid car washes unless it's winter time and you're trying to get salt and other grime off. Then go to the touch free washes.
(2) When you wash your car, use the two bucket method. One bucket = soapy water, other bucket = clean water used for rinse. You'll be amazed by how much dirt this will keep from being reapplied on your car.
(3) Use a quality car wash. All of the Meguiars stuff available locally are good. I like the NXT wash.
(4) Use a quality applicator to clean - I like the synthetic mits. Wash from top to bottom, one panel at a time.
(5) I prefer to dry with a waffle weave towel. Not a fan of squegees as previously mentioned - one missed spec of dirt can end up getting drug across your car's finish.
(6) Clay bar 2x/yr (spring/fall) prior to waxing. Make sure you follow the instructions by applying some sort of lubricant (usually supplied) prior to clay bar.
(7) Wax 2x/yr. If you follow the method above you should'nt need to polish much to remove swirls. Sealants generally give you good, durable results, and are generally easier to apply than carnubas. Some expensive brands were thrown out earlier, but there are quality waxes available at local places from Meguiars, Mothers, and Duragloss (my favorite.)
(8) When waxing, you want the paint to be clean, cool, and out of the sun. Focus on light, even coverage, not quantity of product. Make sure to let it set up (haze) before you remove.

Hope this helps.

Well so far Kymatt is the only one that I think is mostly correct...

1) 2 bucket car was system: this is a must. This way you don't keep scratching the paint with dirt, at least as little as possible. Buy two 5 gallon buckets, and one snap on lid. Keep the buckets clean. You can nest them together to save storage space, and you can put your mitts, towels, etc, inside to keep them clean (dust / garage dirt free).
2) Make sure anything you rub on the truck (mitt, towels) are absolutely clean of dirt, woodchips, etc. You'd be suprised how much stuff gets on them if they are in a pile on a shelf in your garage. Inside the bucket works best.
3) If you aren't waxing after the wash, use a good brand car wash. Meguiars is fine. You're looking for lubricity & foam here, to lift the dirt away and to keep from adding fine scratches to the paint.
4) If you are waxing after the wash, I would wash once quickly with car wash to remove dirt, then wash again with Dawn dish soap to strip waxes.
5) Prior to a wax job, clay with plenty of lubricant (quick detailer).
6) Polish before waxing.
7) I used the term waxing lightly...use a synthetic sealant unless you want to wax monthy or every other month, as thats all waxes last. I use zaino (Z-2) and love it (zaino.com). I apply a coat of zaino and a couple weeks later wash again, apply zaino quick detailer, and then seal it with Z-2 again. It looks freakishly shiny, I love it. You can also put a coat of wax on top when you're done, if you're so inclined. The zaino will last 5-6 months. I'd recommend this treatment right before winter driving, for sure, as you're not likely to be waxing it as much at that time.
8) During the winter, get regular trips to "no touch" car washes. They just spray, no scrubbing. Make sure to get underbody wash if you see any salt...or even if you don't. I try to wash mine that way every week or two as I live in salt heaven (indiana).

It sounds like a lot, but its really not that bad, and pretty fun. My recommendation would be to google "how to wash a car" and find a video that shows how and when to use the 2 bucket system, bug and tar remover, etc. you'd be suprised what you'll learn.

Washing is easy, doesn't take too long, and kind of fun. Claying is kind of fun. By the time you wash, clay, polish, seal, and then detail the tires, interior, clean up, etc, have a weekend set aside to work when it is time to wax (seal). Usually all takes me about 20 hours, but then I like to spend time in my garage / with my jeep.

GL and have fun!
 

Auzivision

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Lot’s of good info here and as you can see… not much consensus.

+1 on Rejex for long lasting
+1 for Zaino looking great (not cheap)
+1 on Meguiar's for inexpensive and good enough

Pretty much anything you do is better than nothing and the differences between the products is not as great as some would lead you to believe. Polymer sealant will last longer than carnauba wax. The difference in the level of shine usually has more to do with technique and labor and less about the products. There are suttle differences that can be made into mountains by the **** rententive types.

Really it comes down to taste, time, and budget and something like this:
Best show car shine with limited durability use caruba wax (every 6 weeks or before each car show)
Show car shine lots of layers good durability expensive but smells nice use Zaino (all the time… it’s addictive, but two or three times a year is plenty)
Near show car shine with excellent durability not too tuff to apply reasonably priced Rejex (once or twice a year)
Great shine not expensive extremely easy and available anywhere Meguiar’s (at least twice a year)

Clay works with any of these products and should be done a least once a year (just prior to waxing)… Waxing/polishing/sealing (whatever you call it) twice a year is an ideal minimum… use Rejex if you only thinking aboput doing this once a year.

Enjoy your new ride… take care of your ride and you'll enjoy it longer.
 
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akdiesel

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Another one for the Clay Bar approach. You will be amazed at how much cleaner the surface of the vehicle will be after a clay bar job even if it is a new car.
Even new cars still have the road grim on them. These cars are taken out as test vehicle for potential buyers and they are simply washed and maybe waxed at the dealerships.
As mentioned rub your fingers on the lower portion of your vehicle befor and after you use the clay bar and you will see the difference.
Simply waxing a vehicle while it has the grime on there that simply washing can not remove will end up scratching the surface and then you will have to eventually use some sort of rubbing compound to clean it up.
After you clay bar it use a protectant to seal the paint.
I have also used clay bars on the glass, chrome, and any smooth surface on the vehicle. It is designed to remove road tar, bugs, over spray, etc...
 

regguy1

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W_KY

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Thanks for all the replies and information and please keep them coming. I for sure need to watch some of those videos on proper technique. (especially into barring and waxing) This whole idea of clay barring a car is something I have never seen done. To be honest it kind of makes me nervous thinking about clay running over the paint but I see where it makes sense. I'll probably just try on small area first.
 

sgrammel

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Thanks for all the replies and information and please keep them coming. I for sure need to watch some of those videos on proper technique. (especially into barring and waxing) This whole idea of clay barring a car is something I have never seen done. To be honest it kind of makes me nervous thinking about clay running over the paint but I see where it makes sense. I'll probably just try on small area first.

I thought the same thing..I thought clay was like a pot or brick...hard and rough....Detailing clay is soft..Think of the kind of clay you played with as a kid..

It is the very best thing you can do. A good test is stick you hand in a baggie and run if over the paint surface..if you can feel 'grit' through the baggie..its time to clay...makes is slicker than bat snot!
 

osu69

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mmhouse is correct-rejex is a great product. I learned about it years ago on a motorhome forum. All my vehicles get an annual treatment on bug accumulating surfaces. Makes bug removal very easy.
 

logical

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The idea of clay scared me too but once you see it's more like a kneaded eraser you not worry. It is not an abrasive at all and less dangerous than even a fine scratch remover polish.

I don't really see any big lack of concensus here other than everyone's personal preferance for certain products. For someone new to detailing, it's good just to start by using a good wash product being careful not to reintroduce dirt...possibly by using two buckets (I never do but I see the logic) , some type of purpose designed cloth product, clay bar and a premium wax.
 
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Boiler

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claying is really easy as long as you don't have a ton of overspray on your vehicle (which it will remove). I had a lot on my jeep and it was gripping and shedding clay everywhere, total PITA. But on a reasonably clean car its really easy and has great results.

The reason you haven't seen it done is that people haven't being doing it for that long, at least not widespread. My stepdad thought I was nuts the first time I showed him how to do it.
 

mixxmstrmike

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While I do agree that claying is relatively "easy" I haven't seen anyone put forth the information that there are different grades of clay and that certain grades WILL scratch the paint.

I have seen Mother's yellow clay and Meguiar's gray clay sold as kits at Walmart. Clay Magic is another company that sells a kit. Regardless of the company, many on Autopia.org view these clays as a fine/medium type clays that will get out the contamination and not scratch the paint. Griot's sells a very mild yellow clay that's very pliable and I've used it to remove overspray.

The most important thing to know about clay is that if you drop it on the ground, throw it away. This is a good reason to cut the clay into halves or even fourths, so that you will have a reserve in case you have a mishap and drop it on the floor.

I like Meguiar's NXT 2.0 synthetic wax for its ease of use and paint-popping properties! It's my go-to wax for medium to dark metallic vehicles.

Definitely lots of information to glean from these posts. Good luck with your new ride!

-Mike
 

akdiesel

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Get one of these California water blades to dry the car, they work great.
It gets 95% of the surface dry and you only need to wipe small areas.
Speeds up the drying process..even the glass!

Video here:

Just Google California water blade, you can buy them all over, eBay has some good deals.

Here's one on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23081fbee2

I for one don't really like the use of these California Water Blades due to the fact that you are taking a solid product and wiping it across the surface of the paint. At times you will tend to push harder to make the edges mold to the shape of the vehicle and collect all the water. If you still have the grime
that washing could not remove then you stand the chance of pulling it off with the blade and scaring your paint.
I like the man made chamois (the ones that stay flexible even when dry).
 

regguy1

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I for one don't really like the use of these California Water Blades due to the fact that you are taking a solid product and wiping it across the surface of the paint. At times you will tend to push harder to make the edges mold to the shape of the vehicle and collect all the water. If you still have the grime
that washing could not remove then you stand the chance of pulling it off with the blade and scaring your paint.
I like the man made chamois (the ones that stay flexible even when dry).

If I were to do a poor wash job and leave grime on the surface of the paint it seem to me that rubbing a chamois over the dirty surface would also tend to create scratches (?)

The water blade is not a "solid" product it is ultra soft silicone and if you pulled it over a piece of debris stuck on the paint it would take a nick out of the blade.

Should one do a through wash job before using a water blade...absolutely, the same goes for a chamois.
 

akdiesel

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The vehicle should be rinsed off with low pressure water to remove any loose dirt or particles.
The soft silicone blade is a solid product unlike the soft wash mits designed for car washing. The mit should be used to simply clean and not polish.
The car should be cleaned properly before any drying or any clay bar / polish is done.
Chamois are designed to be pulled over the top of the paint and soak up the water not pushed or rubbed onto the paint.
I have used the California Blades for shower tiles rubbing across stones and sanded grout for years and the blade does not have any cuts or wear.
If you like this product for your vehicles continue using them, but your last statements were incorrect.
 

Auzivision

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+1 on California Water Blade, works awesome! It's a very soft silicon not much different than rubbing a sponge or wash mitt. If you aren't willing to touch your paint with a blade, you certainly would want to use a wash mitt on it.

+1 on not dropping the clay bar… that is bad, but I don’t immediately through it away. Inspect it first. I clay in my garage and I blow my garage out with a leaf blower to try to cut down on dust and debris. If you pick up a small stone, that would do some damage… a little dust won’t hurt anything.

Clay magic was the first product I used in 1995 when my wife’s car ended up with overspray at a body shop. The stuff was amazing. Later I replaced that bar with Meguair’s and it worked equally well. Then I tried Zaino and theirs seemed to work a little better (totally subjective). Then I tried Griot’s clay and it works about the same as Zaino.

IMHO… Clay versus no clay, clay wins. Big box clay versus boutique clay, boutique wins (but not by a landslide). Don’t fear the clay… probably the best thing invented for paint cleaning ever!
 

kymatt

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+1 on California Water Blade, works awesome! It's a very soft silicon not much different than rubbing a sponge or wash mitt. If you aren't willing to touch your paint with a blade, you certainly would want to use a wash mitt on it.

I have to disagree with you here - it's a LOT different.
Wash mitts and (to a certain degree) spones are made to capture dirt and debris. Silicone is not, which is why the risk of marring/scratching is so much higher with a water blade.
 

sgrammel

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I have to disagree with you here - it's a LOT different.
Wash mitts and (to a certain degree) spones are made to capture dirt and debris. Silicone is not, which is why the risk of marring/scratching is so much higher with a water blade.


I have a CA H2O blade but don't use it any more...I use my leaf blower...True
no touch!
 

rodm1

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Stay away of silicone based wax.

http://www.car-accessories-magazine.com/best-car-wax.html
The best car wax must penetrate into the pores of the painted surface. However the traditional waxdoes not do that. Moreover it has very low resistance to outdoor conditions and repeated car washes.It is also affected by infrared rays, acid rains, dust and pollution agents present in the air. Itis also easily attacked by detergents and chemicals.

The biggest advantage of traditional waxes is their low cost. Certain wax products are formulated with 40% Carnauba wax with Beeswax and a UV protectant. They don't use fillers like talc which doesn't last, and leaves white streaks and dust. These formulas are muchlonger-lasting and result in a better and harder shine.


Silicones generally penetrate the pores of the painted surface and endure many times longer than the traditional. They are easy to apply and result in a much more shiny look. However, silicone products also penetrate the primer and the metal making it difficult to apply any new paint. This is due to the fact that the silicone has eroded the surface adherance and when the new paint is applied, air bubbles may appear at the surface. This major drawback makes it difficult to justify the use of silicones. Conclusion : silicones should not fall into your list of the best car waxes.

If you are prepared to spend more money to use the best car wax, you may want to consider higher end products. They are 4 to 5 times the cost of a traditional wax but they offer a much longer lasting protection (two years and more). One such product is a polish system that uses high quality, durable acrylic elements. The formula is a very expensive and high quality. It is designed to fill the pores of the paint with a unique resin (plasticizer). This forms a barrier which prevents penetration of any other elements. It also contains an acrylic which when fully cured, is a hard durable, anti-static,transparent, protective layer and gloss enhancer.



If you would like to find out more on the best car wax and polishing system, you should consider reading "Automotive Detailing: A Complete Car Care Guide for Auto Enthusiasts and Detailing Professionals" by Don Taylor. This book covers all state-of-the-art compounds for polishing, cleaning, restoring and protecting every finish on a vehicle, from ABS plastic to stainless steel.
 
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