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Carbide burrs

pepi

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Mar 27, 2013
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Woodstock, GA
Replacing some burrs, what I would like to find out is what do you prefer, single, double or diamond cut and the reason.

Speed of material removal, finish of the cut, burr durability and control. I will be using them with a die grinder, mostly steel now and then some aluminum .

Thanks
 
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plinker

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Feb 28, 2007
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I have preference for 3/8 size cylinder and round nose tree type, I have mostly double cut but one single cut and one of the double cut is an end cut type. The single cut is a bit smoother, but slower material removal. I also like a 1/2 size burr in a round nose cylinder shape for general use.
I should really get a couple 1/4 body burr's as I have run into a couple time where I could have used one. I have not used diamond cut.

I use the burr's for enlarging holes/or slotting them, deburring edges, & for weld clean up on a number of different thing's (an example is smoothing out the inside of a pin boss that had to be built up with weld).

If you're going to cut aluminum you'll need specfic aluma-cut type burr's (if you didnt know). I used the one I have the other day for the first time and it worked great.

I've bought from Epstiens and Buckeye carbide. Both have great price's. No issues with either source quality wise, but dont use a die grinder that has a lot of runout (like the POS Matco's I have) or they'll chatter all the teeth off.
 

Ign

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Butte Peak ND
I prefer double cut 'cause it cuts faster and is less likely to "wrap" or "twist" around the ID of a hole, but they all do this to some degree. I'm rarely concerned with finish when I'm using a die grinder, if I care about round hole ID finish or the finish of a slot into the mill it goes.

ATRAX from Enco! US made.
 

rlitman

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Diamond cut is not for cutting metal. It is for things like ceramic tile or concrete, but I've had luck with it on plastics and rubber too.

Single vs double cut is like the difference between a mill and ******* file.
 
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pepi

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Good info you are using them the same as I will. Die grinder is IR, 3/8 is the size, think I'll get at least one 1/4, you definitely make a good point there. Single cut, I am looking at the Epstiens, but I will take a cyber ride over to Buckeye carbide. Thanks you, your information was helpful.
*********
Diamond cut is not for cutting metal. It is for things like ceramic tile or concrete, but I've had luck with it on plastics and rubber too.

OK nix the diamond cut for me.. do not do ceramic or concrete.
Single vs double cut is like the difference between a mill and ******* file.
also informative thanks
*********
I prefer double cut 'cause it cuts faster and is less likely to "wrap" or "twist" around the ID of a hole, but they all do this to some degree. I'm rarely concerned with finish when I'm using a die grinder, if I care about round hole ID finish or the finish of a slot into the mill it goes.

ATRAX from Enco! US made.

Epstiens also US made, the wrap around the ID of a hole is pain, and is a consideration replacing these..

Thank you also.

Looks like there could be at least 1 double cut in the mix now.
 
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jjjrmx5

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Dec 30, 2010
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Location
Cincinnati, OH
Garr carbide double cut burrs are the norm for me.

USA made.

Used on various metals and armour plate.

Never had a problem. Wear like a champ.

1/4" collet die grinders on huge-*** rotary compressor 150 psi shop air.

What you need burr wise is dictated by the work you do. Both size and shape.

Or, in general GJ terms, yes, you need ALL of them.

:)

The Garr counter sinks have served me well for years as well. Both for hand use pressed in a handle and using in a drill press.
 

rockchucker

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Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
1,764
Location
Seattle WA
Here are some pics of my arsenal. All US made and they are all still in use after many projects. This project is removal of the Casting Flash on the Coolant Galley of a Cast Iron Twin Turbo 3.0l V-6 Block...


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Before...



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Carbide Burrs...



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More Tools...
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Album...

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/generacerator/library/Coolant_Galley_Casting _Flash_Removal


Here are some pics of some very straightforward Aluminum removal with the Burrs. the thing about Aluminum is you really have to run at a lower speed and let the Cutting Tool do the work. Too many RPM or too much pressure only results in clogged Burrs.

Straight cut just enlarging an opening...


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The only real thing I can say is do not waste your time with the cheapie HF Burrs. If you buy a quality Burr it will last a LONG time when not abused and treated properly. Yes they are VERY expensive but they are well worth it once you start using them and realize why you paid that much for a tiny little hunk of metal. Single Cut Burrs for Aluminum and Double Cut Burrs for Cast Iron. When using the Double Cut on the Aluminum they tend to clog very fast. Double Cut on Cast Iron seems to remove material a touch faster than a Single Cut Burr.
 
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pepi

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Woodstock, GA
Oh, I forgot to mention one other style of die grinder burr.
There is a type where slivers of carbide are brazed onto a shank, standing up. It is only made for cutting wood, but is an animal at what it does:

http://www.woodcraft.com/category/2000943/kutzall-tungsten-carbide-burrs.aspx

I am a metal worker and car builder wood tools are not on the list. I am just replacing burrs I already have and was looking to upgrade. The double cut will be the style, and actually what I have. I recently replaced a carbide burr that had seen its better days. With this new one I learned they could be reground, with that in mind. I plan to replace the others cause they are just about ready and will keep the storage tubes, experience is the great educator.

Thank you, your comments are well taken.
 

theknurl

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Dec 18, 2010
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Diamond cut is not for cutting metal. It is for things like ceramic tile or concrete, but I've had luck with it on plastics and rubber too.

Single vs double cut is like the difference between a mill and ******* file.

really????

they've been working for me for 40+years in steel, cast iron and brass

rockchucker;
i don't ever use cylinder burrs for porting, they always leave end marks like in your pictures and balls are about useless too

most used in porting;
rounded tree
pointed tree
olive
flame

it's real easy to blend surfaces with curved burrs

for aluminum get some Aluma burrs they have 6 flutes and you can run them FULL speed
go to a machinist supply and get a 'Wax Stick' to lube the burrs works better than WD-40, makes way less mess too:thumbup:
 

rlitman

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Oct 18, 2010
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24,651
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Long Island
I said: > Diamond cut is not for cutting metal . . .

really????

they've been working for me for 40+years in steel, cast iron and brass

rockchucker;
i don't ever use cylinder burrs for porting, they always leave end marks like in your pictures and balls are about useless too

most used in porting;
rounded tree
pointed tree
olive
flame

it's real easy to blend surfaces with curved burrs

for aluminum get some Aluma burrs they have 6 flutes and you can run them FULL speed
go to a machinist supply and get a 'Wax Stick' to lube the burrs works better than WD-40, makes way less mess too:thumbup:

Weeeelllllll, I'll stick with that's not their intended purpose. They have a grinding action more than cutting. That can be useful on cast iron or brass, I guess. I couldn't see it working well on steel, but if it works for you, I say keep doing what you like. One nice thing about the diamond cut is that they are less grabby, so there is a little less kickback. They're also amazing in fiberglass.

I don't do porting, but your comments about shapes are spot on, and I can see how porting would put burrs to tests in all sorts of ways.
Yep, ball shapes are not very useful in most cases. Cylinder too.

My go-to shapes are a rounded cone and flame. I also have one of those carving burrs in a domed cylinder that I like.

I have a few stick shaped diamond cut burrs to make cutouts in plastic, fiberglass, sheetrock, etc. Basically using a die grinder as a mega-rotozip.
 

Corndoggeh

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Apr 2, 2016
Messages
1,198
Hands down, any kind of burr that has a rounded face, I've used them in both my garage and at when I worked in a dental lab (thats how I was introduced to them) They are the only thing I use if I need to drill out a tap.
 

CudaChick1968

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Jul 1, 2011
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Location
Northwest Tennessee (38230)
Hey Burman, after typing this up I see you aren't accepting Private Messages.

I'd love to learn more about your bur restoration services. I have a small {on GJ scale anyhow lol} selection I've been looking to replace for awhile but learning they may possibly be saved sounds like a win/win situation.

How does your service work? Do you accept PayPal or prefer postal money orders?

Feel free to give me a call if you'd rather save the typing. I appreciate your time.

P.S. My stupid phone keeps changing 'bur' to '****.' Cracking myself up here with my request for **** Restoration ... too funny! :D
 

wafrederick

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Joined
Jul 3, 2010
Messages
6,051
Location
Holton,Mi
I have a couple Matco sets,not cheap with a lifetime warranty on them.One set id for ferious metals and the other set is for non ferious metals.
 
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