Carburetor parts dip.

[docbuddy]

the McKay Parts Dip is still made( http://airosol.com/50241.html ) still looking for it.

 

[chris142]

I had a can of the stinky berrymans eat through the can

 

[Nele]

Chem dip, you need undoubted version. Stuff we got here takes paint off!

 

[Swan]

Simple Green and/or soda blast works wonders for me.

 

[Shadowdog500]

the McKay Parts Dip is still made( http://airosol.com/50241.html ) still looking for it.

I see this is your first post. Welcome to the forum!

I looked around the link and noticed that this dip is a new environmental friendly version so it may not work as well as the old stuff.

I also noticed that he website hadn't been updated in 5 years, and the link to their distributors don't work anymore. I wonder if they are still in business.


I'm going to check out that yamaha stuff next time I overhaul a carb. I'll even use an old crockpot.

Chris

 

[warweapon762]

Antifreeze (non-diluted) + crockpot has always worked for me! In some cases better than the berrymans stuff.

 

[Straightgrain]

I bought a gallon of Berryman's for soaking old ratchets and sockets in, after an overnight soak, it had little or no affect on the grease.

 

[larry4406]

Anyone with experience soaking Pistons? How long? Net search seems like it does a good job in 3-4 hours.

 

[laser3kw]

zombie post
if you want Berrymans use this
good carb dip 5 gallon
you want a product that has methylene chloride in it.
Some Berryman's cans have nearly identical labels but contain different products.

 

[four.cycle]

Back in the day I used to use a product by Gunk called Hydro Seal.
It was a caustic solution with a layer of water over it that came in a 5 or 1 gallon bucket.
I found it to be an excellent carburetor cleaner; you just didn't want to get it on your hands or skin.
Not sure if it's still sold.

No, it's been outlawed for years. From what I understand the fumes caused damage to the central nervous system.
Had to fish an aluminum check ball out of a 5-gallon bucket I had in the back room of the Yelm store. Stuck my hand down in there and finally found it.
Three days later all the skin on my arm crackled like an old China plate and came off in pieces. Very weird stuff.
Cleaned hell out of some old carburetors though!

Somebody mentioned "SuperClean" - don't put that stuff on an aluminum-bodied carburetor without diluting it.
I use it on lawnmower carburetors - I fill a plastic spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of SuperClean and water and douse the carb good, let it work a bit, and hit it with a pressure washer (still assembled.) Then I take it apart and take a can of Gumout Jet-Spray to it to clean out the innards. Works dandy.

Don't know if you could get away with that on an AFB or a 4150 Holley - they're just a wee bit more complicated.

 

[rhandwor]

Get an old kettle only for carbureators and boil for 20 Minutes this will clean them up.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Anyone with experience soaking Pistons? How long? Net search seems like it does a good job in 3-4 hours.

If you are trying to get carbon off of pistons use SeaFoam. Soak and then use a stiff non-wire brush.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Get an old kettle only for carbureators and boil for 20 Minutes this will clean them up.

Add the juice of 1 lemon, filtered.

 

[larry4406]

If you are trying to get carbon off of pistons use SeaFoam. Soak and then use a stiff non-wire brush.

I read this link which indicated seam foam was useless as a soak.

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?272077-Cleaning-deposits-from-old-pistons/page3

 

[Outlawmws]

It could be state dependent, Most "chemicals" for almost any automotive cleaning/conditioning sold in Sunny Kalifornia, are useless. Everything has to be low or no VOC, and CARB is nuts on the issue.

 

[larry4406]

I'm currently rebuilding an engine and I bought a 1 gallon can of Berryman's Chem-Dip at Walmart for not quite $18 and decided to give it a try. The one I bought does not contain methylene chhloride.

Here is a test of a 1-hour soak on a damaged piston compared to another damaged piston both in their "as-removed" condition from the engine. Both still have the rings in place. The 1-hour soaking proved quite encouraging! After soak, remove and rinse in hot water! This test picture does not show the affects of any brushing or scraping. The piston is extremely bright and the carbon and discoloration are fading away. Note the "dip line" on the rod beam at the big end.

I then proceeded to soak the good pistons for 3-hours, much better. Still need to scrape the grooves.

 

[BUDDMANN54]

Yep I remember the good old days when you could buy stuff that worked, and I sure miss those days. Bought some GUMMOUNT parts dip and was not happy after soaking a holley carb for over an hour. It came out looking like it was rinsed off with clear water. Here in California the AQMD is a royal pain in the backside, because if it works they take it off the shelf. Yes you do get chemical burns if you play in it bare handed, but you learn fast use gloves next time. Too bad it's no longer available If I had not let so much **** build up in the can and discarded it. I miss my McKay's Parts Dip it was the best.

 

[Outlawmws]

Eight year old thread, 4 year old Resurrection -

FYI, its gotten WORSE in Sunny Kalifornia. Many common solvents are gone completely, even Denatured Alcohol (Although they REQUIRE it's base in our gasoline)

 

[dnschmidt]

The missing ingredient is methylene chloride. The same problem exists with modern paint strippers which actually don't strip paint anymore. Methylene chloride can be obtained from commercial chemical suppliers (or at least it can outside of California) but it's no longer sold as a consumer product.

 

[didit]

The last set of carbs I cleaned in my blast cabinet using crushed walnut shells and jewelers rouge before dis-assembly and a rebuild.The finish was still great 5 years later when I sold the car.

 

[RoninB4]

Old thread revival. I had a carb that needed cleaning, left fuel in float bowl for several months (yes I know...). Everything got cleaned except for that green residue from old fuel in the float bowl itself. I decided to try removing the residue just to see how tough it was. I had several solvents to choose but none of them worked. As a last resort I tried using Pine-Sol, which I thought was a waste of time. I have to say that I was amazed at the results, clean as a whistle. I tried this several other times on carbs I've bought on the internet, all came out sparking clean. I've had no bad results from using this on brass jets, needles, or most carb bodies. I would like to offer a caution. Almost all carb parts that appear to be aluminum are a zinc die-cast material of varying composition. I had the float bowl drain plug in with the jets/float bowl soaking for a few hours. As I pulled all the components out I noticed a light silver residue on my fingers. The one component it affected was the drain plug, it was dissolving the drain plug but nothing else. Each zinc die-cast part is a different recipe, hence the name "pot metal" and using Pine-Sol may/may not affect it. I now use a 1:1 mix and check every 4 hours for silver on my fingers when soaking zinc die-cast components. I'm not concerned about brass jets but am about the "white" metals. Haven't tried it on a genuine aluminum alloy (so very many of them) and wouldn't trust it on a gasket either but float bowls seem to be made of a better composition than drain plugs. No experience with plated parts and wouldn't trust it on paint either. Plan accordingly. Hope this helps someone.