Carpenter Bees - Help

[LSU]

I've been battling carpenter bees in the back part of my shop.

I've used various sprays and foam to kill the bees and I think I'm making progress.

When I spray the foam into the tunnels it is amazing how long and deep the tunnels run.

I think I'm going to get the bees killed over time.

Need some advice -

Suggestions for finishing off the bees?

Anyone use any type of caulk or anything else that I can inject into the holes to fill them and firm up the beams that have been devastated?

I'm thinking something like Liquid Nails to bond the beams together.

I have a small side shack that has 2x4's supporting some roofing and these are what I'm worried about the most.

I think injecting Liquid Nails or some other type of "epoxy type" filler will hold the tunneled wood together.

Thanks.

 

[dragginbalz]

What I read and experienced, killing the ones you see and plugging the holes will not stop them. They will just drill more holes. They also come back next season.

I used some powder poison. You puff it in and it stays active for like 6 months or so. They track it into the nest it is dries them up and kills them.

http://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/Carpenter_Bees.htm

Good luck

 

[pepi]

Search building traps for Carpenter Bees.

 

[southalabama]

Woodpeckers will attack the wood causing further damage.

Build a couple carpenter bee traps. Don't empty it when bees get trapped. The smell will attract more.

Brake Kleen in the hole works good.

 

[VocaTexas]

Try finding a beekeeper in your area. Most will come remove a colony for free. Bees are extremely important to our survival and there have been mass colony collapses in the last few years.

 

[slip knot]

Try finding a beekeeper in your area. Most will come remove a colony for free. Bees are extremely important to our survival and there have been mass colony collapses in the last few years.

Carpenter bees are way different than honey bees. Honey bees have been devestated by colony collapse. carpenter bees, not so much.

 

[Dragfluid]

My solution for wasps should work.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

Spray everything with Bifen IT.

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/will-bifen-it-kill-carpenter-bees-qa-4799.html

 

[rlitman]

...They tend to not bore in stained wood or treated lumber...

Tell that to the ones that like to bore in a piece of ACQ treated lumber I have in an awning.

 

[MushCreek]

They have no problem boring into the treated lumber on our deck, but so far, have left the painted wood alone. I put out several traps last year, and caught exactly one bee. Haven't caught any this year, but they are around.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

I built several like this. I have an open wood framed carport/shed, and the carp bees were eating it up. I hung the traps up and caulked every hole in the framing I could find with urethane caulk. Then for the next week or so I kept an eye out and killed any bee I caught trying to dig another hole. Once they found these traps and started going into them, my problem has stopped. And the traps have plenty of dead bees in them....
Been a couple of years now and still no more problems.

 

[ratdoggy]

Sprayed bug killer into the holes and then....
We whack the little mothers on sight with a tennis racket...
That seemed to stop them and there is no genetic resistance to getting smashed..

 

[TractorJeff]

Enlightening!
I assumed that the 30 or 40 Bumble Bees swarming around my PT wood deck wouldn't bore it. I kept looking for holes but hadn't seem them? I'll get under there again and look more closely!

 

[rlitman]

...and there is no genetic resistance to getting smashed..

So how did this thing come about:

 

[ratdoggy]

No one smashed them....I'll start practicing my forehand I guess

 

[manwithtools]

They have no problem boring into the treated lumber on our deck, but so far, have left the painted wood alone. I put out several traps last year, and caught exactly one bee. Haven't caught any this year, but they are around.

Yep, they love treated lumber around my place despite what all the experts say. It usually takes at least one year of the treated lumber drying before they move in, but they love it after that.

 

[manwithtools]

Enlightening!
I assumed that the 30 or 40 Bumble Bees swarming around my PT wood deck wouldn't bore it. I kept looking for holes but hadn't seem them? I'll get under there again and look more closely!

The holes aren't the give away (although they are the proof), the sawdust on the ground where you have not been doing any carpentry is the first sign I see. Many times they like to get on the back side of framing members where it's not so inviting to predators.

 

[RPH]

Sevin dust blown into the holes and any surface they collect on. The carry into the tunnels. Anything going in or coming out is soon to die. Not an imeadiate thing but works around the clock. Had some working in the barn, set the dust down and dusted the holes. They were livid but a week later all were dead. No problems since.

 

[ford fanatic]

Sprayed bug killer into the holes and then....
We whack the little mothers on sight with a tennis racket...
That seemed to stop them and there is no genetic resistance to getting smashed..

LOL, we do the same thing.

 

[pattenp]

Delta Dust is good for treating the nest of carpenter bees. Also works great for controlling carpenter ants.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

How far north do these carpenter bees go?

Anyone in southern Wisconsin have them?

 

[beardog]

I just won a big battle with them on my carport. I started with a tip to use WD-40 on them. I got the long flex nozzle can and stuck it as far as it would go in every hole and sprayed all the way out. That killed at least 50 of them. They started coming out quickly and looked like a duck in an oil spill when they hit the ground. Two days later a dozen were back drilling new holes and using some of the same ones so I repeated and got more.

I was told that you have to locate the queen or they will always return. I noticed that they hovered around the most chewed up board so I got foaming spray and redid all the holes then caulked them in. Next day about six holes near the worst board had the caulk pushed out so I hit them all again and left them open. I sprayed the foam after another day and caulked again and have been free of them since. This area had them for years and now I haven't seen a bee for weeks. I think I located the area the queen was in and finally got foam to it.

Although I didn't use it I heard that poking fine steel wool in the holes will kill them because they chew it and die.

 

[Throbbin Rods]

I bought some stuff from Tractor Supply called Spectracide Pro Wasp and Hornet Spray. Had a nest of yellow jackets in the project boat that was getting bigger and bigger, maybe 10-12" around. this stuff claims ot kill them on contact and for 4 weeks after that. I nailed the nest and ot killed one so dead he died hanging half in and half out of the nest. Haven't seen them since. Best stuff I ever used.

 

[Katodog]

Bees and ants are hard to get rid of unless you get rid of the queen. As long as the queen remains, other drones will seek her out and you'll be fighting a losing battle. Best stuff to use is what will last the longest, and what will cause residue to be taken into the nest. Most pest companies will use gels and powders that attach to the insect, allowing them to take the poison back to the nest.

Spectracide makes some pretty powerful and effective sprays, one in particular is SpectracidePro Wasp & Hornet Killer. It works very fast, killing almost on contact. The spray jets out, and while they claim it goes up to 20 feet, I've found that it will go at least 8-10 effectively. The chemical remains for days, killing any bees that return to the nest, and it will make the nest uninhabitable for the bees.

As with any type of bee treatment, use it at night when the bees are dormant, or when it's cold outside. Insects get sluggish when it's cold, and are typically dormant at night. Spraying at night or early morning will insure that most or all of the bees that inhabit the nest will be at it when you spray. In the case of the Spectracide, it remains long enough that returning bees get "infected" by it and they eventually spread it to the queen. So, if you don't get her when spraying the nest, the returning drones will do the job.


As a precaution to any insects or spiders, treat around the house with something like Hot Shot Home Control, Bayer Home Pest, etc.. These will last a decent amount of time and they leave a barrier that insects and spiders can't cross without eventually dying. I've used these products around the house and shed, and they do a great job of keeping pests from invading areas that are sprayed. Most of these products kill on contacts, so you can use them to spray active insects and spiders as well.

 

[Katodog]

I bought some stuff from Tractor Supply called Spectracide Pro Wasp and Hornet Spray. Had a nest of yellow jackets in the project boat that was getting bigger and bigger, maybe 10-12" around. this stuff claims ot kill them on contact and for 4 weeks after that. I nailed the nest and ot killed one so dead he died hanging half in and half out of the nest. Haven't seen them since. Best stuff I ever used.

Ah, you got in before my info. Yup, Spectracide is one of the best out there.

 

[manwithtools]

Bees and ants are hard to get rid of unless you get rid of the queen. As long as the queen remains, other drones will seek her out and you'll be fighting a losing battle. Best stuff to use is what will last the longest, and what will cause residue to be taken into the nest. Most pest companies will use gels and powders that attach to the insect, allowing them to take the poison back to the nest.

Spectracide makes some pretty powerful and effective sprays, one in particular is SpectracidePro Wasp & Hornet Killer. It works very fast, killing almost on contact. The spray jets out, and while they claim it goes up to 20 feet, I've found that it will go at least 8-10 effectively. The chemical remains for days, killing any bees that return to the nest, and it will make the nest uninhabitable for the bees.

As with any type of bee treatment, use it at night when the bees are dormant, or when it's cold outside. Insects get sluggish when it's cold, and are typically dormant at night. Spraying at night or early morning will insure that most or all of the bees that inhabit the nest will be at it when you spray. In the case of the Spectracide, it remains long enough that returning bees get "infected" by it and they eventually spread it to the queen. So, if you don't get her when spraying the nest, the returning drones will do the job.


As a precaution to any insects or spiders, treat around the house with something like Hot Shot Home Control, Bayer Home Pest, etc.. These will last a decent amount of time and they leave a barrier that insects and spiders can't cross without eventually dying. I've used these products around the house and shed, and they do a great job of keeping pests from invading areas that are sprayed. Most of these products kill on contacts, so you can use them to spray active insects and spiders as well.

All of this is great information, but it does not entirely apply to the OP's question. He's talking about carpenter bee's. This is not a colonization problem, it's an egg laying / wood eating problem. Carpenter bee's are not colonized, there is no "queen" or hive. They are solitary insects. Wasp and hornet spray will kill them if flying or at the burrow, but their young may already be hatching in the burrow in the wood they have created. The young will return the following year. I've used axle grease a few times and that is pretty effective at not letting the young hatch and leave the wood.

 

[jwalk2c]

What I read and experienced, killing the ones you see and plugging the holes will not stop them. They will just drill more holes. They also come back next season.

I used some powder poison. You puff it in and it stays active for like 6 months or so. They track it into the nest it is dries them up and kills them.

http://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/Carpenter_Bees.htm

Good luck

I second this advice. I battled Carpenter Bees for years. They always bore at one area of my deck . I also use the Cyonara liquid that doyourownpestcontrol sales. It is great for all kinds of bugs and such. I spray around foundation of house and garage and of course deck. If you spray it in the early spring and then monthly it will ward off the bees from attacking.

 

[LSU]

Ok, I've got an attack plan.

Now, anybody have any thoughts on injecting something like Liquid Nails or something similar into the tunnels to fortify the 2x4's. I'm trying to fill the tunnels with something that will form up the shed.

Thanks.

 

[Dragfluid]

Carpenter Bees are interesting creatures. The last egg they lay hatches first. The holes are almost exactly 7/16 of an inch, and they go straight in for a little bit and then turn and bore straight back. They only lay eggs to the bend in the hole, or only bore as far as the eggs they are going to lay. They tend to not bore in stained wood or treated lumber.The children come back every year to their birth vicinity. Wasps and hornets are the enemies of the eggs, and will enter the hole to eat them. So, treated wood, stain, and get some wasps or buy a Hudson Hornet. But Bumblebees are very beneficial to the environment, and perform many of the polinating tasks that honey bees do. I prefer not to kill them, but to redirect them if possible. They are very meticulous about choosing a site, and spend hours and days picking just the right one before they bore. They have some sort of radar that lets them know how thick the wood is and how suitable. Love your Bumble Bees!

Just to clarify so others don't get confused by the above, Carpenter Bees and Bumble Bees are two different species.

 

[LSU]

I went out and looked at my shed - again.

I bought some Bayer brand (at Lowe's) Carpenter Bee foam. I sprayed all of the tunnels/holes early this morning. By sundown today there were many dead bees in the tunnels. I previously had used Spectrcide spray last week and I didn't see the same good results.

Today I built and now have 6 carpenter bee traps (4" 4x4's with a glass Mason jar underneath the roof - )check Youtube if you need an idea of what I'm talking about).

So far no bees trapped.

I'm going to stay out of that area of my shed for a few days and go back and check.

I'm still trying to get an answer on my idea of "injecting" either Liquid Nails or some type of epoxy type caulk into the tunnels to "firm" up my "tunneled" 2x4's. If I had to change the 2x4's out it really wouldn't be worth it. - Anyone have any thoughts on this idea?

I'm thinking I'd take my caulk gun that is driven by my air compressor and "fill the tunnels".

Thanks.

 

[Chris705]

LSU - I don't see anything you inject into a hole putting the wood member back to original strength. Perhaps sistering another member alongside is possible?

 

[LSU]

LSU - I don't see anything you inject into a hole putting the wood member back to original strength. Perhaps sistering another member alongside is possible?

I'm thinking an internal bonding agent will somehow make the tunneled wood stronger? I figure it can't hurt, might help?

Replacing the beams or sistering a stringer is always a fall back.

 

[Chris705]

Maybe if you took a wire brush to clean out the various attempts to kill the bees and exposed some fibers that epoxy or glue can grab it might restore a bit of strength, but I think your time/money would be better spent on other options to strengthen the compromised members.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

I went out and looked at my shed - again.

I bought some Bayer brand (at Lowe's) Carpenter Bee foam. I sprayed all of the tunnels/holes early this morning. By sundown today there were many dead bees in the tunnels. I previously had used Spectrcide spray last week and I didn't see the same good results.

Today I built and now have 6 carpenter bee traps (4" 4x4's with a glass Mason jar underneath the roof - )check Youtube if you need an idea of what I'm talking about).

So far no bees trapped.

I'm going to stay out of that area of my shed for a few days and go back and check.

I'm still trying to get an answer on my idea of "injecting" either Liquid Nails or some type of epoxy type caulk into the tunnels to "firm" up my "tunneled" 2x4's. If I had to change the 2x4's out it really wouldn't be worth it. - Anyone have any thoughts on this idea?

I'm thinking I'd take my caulk gun that is driven by my air compressor and "fill the tunnels".

Thanks.

LOL....you did bury the bodies right?

I think you need to apply for a permit for reconstruction and hire a nationally known engineering firm to access the damage. Then apply for permits with the AHJ for reconstruction. For removal of the boring Bees, apply for a pesticide license, and take out an insurance policy to cover any unforeseen damages to the area and any bees not involved in the mitigation that might die and their heirs. BTW, you may need a hunting license with those traps with a trapping endorsement.

LOL.... Actually...if you live in Cary,NC you might be required to do the above...it's a strange place to live...

 

[LSU]

I live south of Cary, NC - way south.

I'm looking in my shed for some of that old DDT I thought I still had. I figure that will solve the problem.

I also have some of that methaethyldeath somewhere. Back in the 60's it was the go to bug killer.

 

[kabinenroller]

****,
I live just South of Milwaukee, last week while installing a new shake shingle roof on our gazebo I found two holes and a bee came out of one of them. I sprayed with Raid wasp and hornet spray and have not seem them return. (Johnson Wax Company is within view of my house so I used Raid)
So they are in our area.

 

[Hephaestus29]

I've got a privacy fence that I built with treated wood, they've bored holes all in it. It may have slowed them down some but they do it anyway.

 

[CN Spots]

I'm a wasp-a-phobic and spray every crack, corner and crevice on my property with malathion in a pump sprayer every spring. I usually have to hit it again before the summer's over and the place smells like a chemical plant for a few days but it keeps most everything from building nests. I missed the roofs of the storage sheds this year and the carpenter bees got busy.

I'm intrigued by the traps. I need to make a few this winter and see how well they work.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

Tennis and badminton rackets give the most satisfaction for eradication....

 

[SmartShoe]

I had a bad problem with carpenter bees when I built a lean-to on the back of my garage. I tried various methods to get rid of them without success.

Then I came across something that suggested the best way to prevent them was to make the wood not look like wood. What that means is, staining the wood will not help as it will still look like wood. Painting the wood with an outdoor paint will cover it up and it no longer looks like wood to the carpenter bees. I painted my lean-to with some leftover outdoor paint I used on the garage and sure enough, no more problems with the bees.

My bee traps sure get full but they leave the painted wood alone. This year I haven't had a single problem with carpenter bees.

At least that's what worked for me.