Carpentry framing question

[Gigem]

I've been working on a project in my backyard to spruce up an older pergola attached to the back of my house. It had slats across the top of it that were rotted, and busted up corrugated plastic on top of that. And a really sketchy ceiling fan setup.

I've removed everything but the basic structure. The ceiling fan is gone and won't be replaced. Question has to do with the rafter that goes where the ceiling fan was. See pictures. They boxed in a section and added a brace for the fan.

I would like to do away with this boxed in section and just have that center rafter be like all the others. Rather than replace that with a new 16 foot 2x8 and having to cut that detail on the end, I'm wondering if I can just "scab in" a section of 2x8 to fill in the gap. It's about 2.5 feet...

If it's OK to do this, what sort of material should I use to brace/support the scabbed in piece of 2x8? It would be great if I could use a piece of angle iron on top of the rafter so that it wouldn't be super visible from below. But I'd like it to be strong of course.

Not planning to put anything else up on top of this, so it's not carrying any weight. Just needs to support the whole length of the 16 foot 2x8.

Or should I just **** it up and replace this with a new board?

Thanks!

P.S. I am a TOTAL novice when it comes to framing stuff like this. Assume I'm an idiot!

 

[Jacko264]

My self I would renew it with a 2x8 and cut the end the same as before
i think it would look best
Graham

 

[cgrutt]

I would just replace the entire rafter. Haven't seen this done before on a 2x8 but a scarf joint would be strongest and might look best if you decide to patch it.

 

[Gigem]

What tool do I use to cut that fancy detail on the far end of the new rafter?

 

[cgrutt]

What tool do I use to cut that fancy detail on the far end of the new rafter?

Jig saw

 

[RPH]

Jig saw

And files, sandpaper. This will complete the tool list.

 

[Toolfool]

Looks like replacing that single rafter will be good practice ... the rest of your rafters look like they're beginning to rot and will be needing replacement soon as well.
Cedar or pressure treated would be your best lumber choices.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Porta-Band works well.

 

[CraigStu]

I am not 100% sure I understand what you need to do but you might want to look in the pergola section of the lumber dept. at L or HD. They are usually near the Simpson String ties. They have a lot of pieces of steel that are nicely made and powder coated black. Maybe one would work for you.

Search Results for pergola hardware at The Home Depot

Search Results for pergola hardware at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

 

[MongoTA]

If you end up leaving the boxed section in, just remove the j-box, remove the piece of framing lumber the j-box is attached to, rotate it 90 degrees and reattach it inside the boxed section, in line with the two headed off joist sections outside the boxed out area. It'll streamline the look a bit and there's no need to buy any more lumber.

Otherwise yes, remove the boxed section and install a new 2-by rafter. Your new rafter may have a bit of crown to it. Site down the length with your eyeball to see if it does. If it does, orient the rafter so when it is installed the crown is up.

Set the rafter in place and do what you need to do so the head of the rafter nests nicely on the ledger up against the house. Now go to the tail of the rafter and mark it to length using the tails of the rafters on either side of the new rafter for reference. While up there on the ladder, use a piece of cardboard and pencil and trace the outline of one of the rafter tails.

Take the new rafter down. Align the end of your cardboard pattern with the cut-to-length length mark on the rafter. Transfer the tail pattern to the rafter and cut the detail with jig saw if you have one.

The pieces on top of the rafters that were 90 degrees to the rafters are called 'overlay'. They will help hold the rafters in place and keep them from bowing along their lengths, or rotating a bit off of vertical.

I used to have silver lace vines growing up and over my pergola (16' deep x 42' wide). They vines gave a nice dappled shaded underneath. The vines dies one winter and I replaced them with bamboo fencing stapled to the top of the overlay. Worked well for quite a few years. Two years ago the bamboo was degrading and flaking, so I got rid of that. I installed new overlay and covered a little over half of the pergola with metal roof fastened to the overlay. Very easy installation, and it's nice to have a rain and snow safe area underneath. The other third has hardy kiwi vines over the top, dappled shade under that part.

Good luck with your repair!

 

[vavet]

Sounds to me like you need a CNC router to cut that detail on the end.

 

[RPH]

Sounds to me like you need a CNC router to cut that detail on the end.

Garage Journal tool suggestions. Always appreciated.
I up you one and go water jet!

 

[Stobal]

And files, sandpaper. This will complete the tool list.

Rasp may be better than or at least supplement the file.

 

[Viper98912]

Garage Journal tool suggestions. Always appreciated.
I up you one and go water jet!

I up you one and go laser!

 

[kbs2244]

I have seen that rafter end before
It is popular in CA
You may be able to buy one factory cut

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Since those 2x8s are there just to supply shade and don't support anything but their own weight, patching should be possible. If you remove the boxed section including the white boards, it looks like you would have the material to insert a section in the 2x8 that was cut. Careful measurement before removing the boxed section will tell you what length the patch piece needs to be. I am imagining Tom Silva on TOH doing this by removing both sides of the sectioned 2x8, placing them on the ground with the patch piece between, then using a biscuit joiner to reinforce the 2 **** joints to patch everything together with glue and possibly some pocket screws. One could probably do the same thing by drilling for some lengths of wood dowel. If glued and pulled together with pocket screws and allowed to cure before moving, this should be more than strong enough to handle.

 

[pbon]

The angle iron on top is fine to hold the new section in. These are not rafters. They have little structural value. You are retaining all the rest intact.

 

[Dig Doug]

You can make a template of the rafter detail and have your “ lumber yard “make the cut for you.

I would just swap it out and any others that have any damage or issues, while it’s apart like it is Now is the time to make it all NEW again.

 

[mmb617]

P.S. I am a TOTAL novice when it comes to framing stuff like this. Assume I'm an idiot!

I would just replace the entire rafter. Haven't seen this done before on a 2x8 but a scarf joint would be strongest and might look best if you decide to patch it.

Yep, this is the GJ alright. Where else does the original poster tell us up front that he's a TOTAL novice at framing and he gets advice to make a really intricate joint.

 

[backupbeeper]

I’d just replace the whole rafter , but using angle iron to support the splice would be fine too

It’s not like the rafter is holding up a roof .

 

[cgrutt]

Yep, this is the GJ alright. Where else does the original poster tell us up front that he's a TOTAL novice at framing and he gets advice to make a really intricate joint.

Except that my advise was to replace the entire rafter. Just showing best way to patch it in event that's the path OP decided to take. Perhaps OP is capable of cutting a straight line but didn't know which joint would work best. Or realize a proper repair is beyond his capacity and just shell out a few dollars to replace the entire board. Go figure lol.

 

[ybnormal]

I up you one and go laser!

I triple-dog-dare up you one and go old school with a Ginsu knife!

 

[Gigem]

Ha! Thanks guys. I'm gonna replace the rafter.