Carport into a garage

[1028garage]

New here, have a new house with a 2 space car port underneath a patio that I am looking to turn into a garage. Having never done this before I have some questions that I hope I can get answers on.

Before:

After:

Things I need to do:

• Grade
• Slab
• Frame
• Garage Doors

Consensus is I would need to grade down because I only have 7-7.5ft from right to left (looking from the front). I figure 12-18" minimum down to make enough room for low profile garage doors and side mounted openers. Also I would only frame the left side and the front and remain non-insulated. under the deck is metal sheets with a central drain that keeps the water from coming through.

I got a couple quotes to do it all and the prices were all over the place anywhere between $23K-46K. I am unsure of how I want it to look at this point so I figured the least I could do was grade it, pour a slab and run a drain across the front. Got some quotes for that and they are between 9k-13K for roughly 600-700 sqft depending on which contractor measured it. That's anywhere between $16-23 per sqft and reading online that is way higher than the average cost to pour a slab and/or grade.

So can anyone give me some insight into what I should be looking at spending to have it graded and a slab poured?

 

[ram50boosted]

since you have such a low overhead I would look into a bi-fold door. the same kind they put on aircraft hangers.

 

[3Series]

Whatever you do, post up the progress. You have an interesting build.

One thing I see is if you grade down you'll likely have to support those split face columns so your drive through between the columns will become narrower. Referencing the truck and the pic it looks like you would have enough width, but can't say for sure.

 

[CraigStu]

My first question would be how deep do those brick support columns go? Secondly, to drop the floor 18 inches what happens to the existing driveway. Not good to have a driveway sloping down to a garage

 

[1028garage]

Columns go to the frost line so 30" or so down. There are two supporting piers inside the garage that I think only go down 16" but I can deal with that. The width between the columns is 10.5' so plenty wide enough to put in 8' x 7' doors. Have had a ton of contractors and masonry guys come out and give me quotes plus feedback.

Having said that, a 4" slab + 4" gravel layer would require 8" at least. Will most likely end up with 7'6" - 8" ground to ceiling. I would prefer 8' across the board but at that height the slab would be below the run off area to the left. Right now height is anywhere from 7' to 7'8" depending on where you stand. It slopes from right to left away from the house.

So my plan right now is to..

+Grade down anywhere from 12-22" to achieve 7'8" floor to ceiling
+4" of stone + 4" of slab 3500 psi w/rebar and vapor barrier
+2 ft apron with horizontal drain running along front of garage with small lip behind it between drain and garage doors.
+Drain inside the garage running to the left out towards rear of the house
+Block wall on left side with room for a door
+Grade driveway to meet new slab to avoid steep drop off

So I got some more quotes, $6700, $8000 and waiting on one more before I decide who to go with. I got one quote for $3800 but the guy said he doesn't know how to install a drain so I don't have much confidence in him even at that price. I figure I could start with the slab and then decide what I want to do about doors and framing. Either overhead, bi fold or roll up. Not worried about a downward sloping driveway as long as I take into account the water which I am already doing. Some of the best garages I have seen have been at the bottom of a sloping driveway.

Here is a better pic of the driveway:

 

[Copymutt]

Not sure of your location,DMV. If your in snow country,or heavy rain belt I see nothing but water issues, flooding and rot.
Minimal height will be an issue w/ OH doors, subtract at least ten inches in usable height for hanging tracks. That takes you down to six ft. You don’t want to be walking into those.
Don’t mean to rain on you parade, just a poor candidate for your money.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

A low headroom rear torsion door will get you into the 5" headroom range, add an inch for the opener rail and you should be able to do a 6'6" door. Keep the doors as wide as possible. Frame down to the nearest standard, not stock width. 8', 9' or 10' wide are normal. You will need a trolley type opener on a low headroom system if you want the door to open all the way in the opening. Otherwise it will droop.

 

[1028garage]

DMV means DC Maryland Virginia. Worth it to me even if I get water in there every so often. Hell I have another house with a detached garage at the top of a slope that gets water in it when it rains/snows but the trade off is worth it. I just make sure I don’t have anything on the floor that can’t withstand some water.

As far as what size door I have been reading that with minimal headroom you can get away with 4.5” headroom w/2” track, rear springs and side mount opener. If I end up with 7’8” floor to ceiling then that’s more than enough to get a door and low profile track and not hit my head on it. I can always have a custom door built if need be. But I am no expert so I will consult a professional about the clearance needed. Hell if I need roll up or old school bifold I’ll do that if it gets me an enclosed space.

At the end of the day I can deal with whatever I end up with because I understand my options are limited.

 

[CraigStu]

have you checked w/ local building permit people. Is there a minimum ceiling height requirement?

 

[readhead]

If there is room I would spend the money on a separate building rather than cobble together what will at best be a series of compromises that you will regret later.

 

[John in OH]

have you checked w/ local building permit people. Is there a minimum ceiling height requirement?

+1 regarding first checking with local building authority. They may have other requirements such as fire retardation times etc. associated with attached garages.

IMHO, I'd be shocked if you could get this done for under $25K in the DMV area.

I fully understand your position and sympathize with the desire to get an enclosed garage. but an old, highly experienced builder once told me that the Number One error that most people and/or builders make is to build at too low a grade.

 

[matt_i]

I'd be very concerned about the large flat "roof" which I'm putting in quotes...I'm not sure how that can be sufficiently waterproofed to consider closing it in...

I'm faraway but I can't really see a point lower than where your finished floor is theoretically going to be. When you say "drain" where is the water output going to go...it must go lower.

 

[1028garage]

have you checked w/ local building permit people. Is there a minimum ceiling height requirement?

No height requirement, free to end up with whatever I think works best.

If there is room I would spend the money on a separate building rather than cobble together what will at best be a series of compromises that you will regret later.

No other room on the property to build, this is it.

+1 regarding first checking with local building authority. They may have other requirements such as fire retardation times etc. associated with attached garages.

IMHO, I'd be shocked if you could get this done for under $25K in the DMV area.

I fully understand your position and sympathize with the desire to get an enclosed garage. but an old, highly experienced builder once told me that the Number One error that most people and/or builders make is to build at too low a grade.

I already have a quote for $22K to do it all, grade, slab, drains, framing, garage doors and replace an old slider.

I'd be very concerned about the large flat "roof" which I'm putting in quotes...I'm not sure how that can be sufficiently waterproofed to consider closing it in...

I'm faraway but I can't really see a point lower than where your finished floor is theoretically going to be. When you say "drain" where is the water output going to go...it must go lower.

That flat "roof" is already water proofed (I took these pics 20 minutes ago):

Everything drains away from the house, down and out to the left behind the stairs. Ground has a slope from right to left and I would keep that when I pour the slab. I will put an external sump in if I have to.

This project is going to happen and I will be sure to keep this thread updated as I progress through it.

 

[1028garage]

I'mmmmm back with a slab...cost was roughly $4k all in.

Biggest problem was figuring out what to do with all the dirt but luckily FB had the answer and a neighbor wanted all of it. The only other PITA was digging the trench for the channel drain but in the end it worked out great.

Currently I am figuring out the best way close it in (block or pressure treated wood) and what kind of garage doors I am going to go with. Thinking Bi fold out swing with a header mounted opener so I have little to nothing over head. That is solely based on the ceiling being the bottom side of a deck with corrugated steel + gutter running along it. That gives me limited options as to what I can put on it.

 

[fourjeepin]

Looking great!

 

[Bretny]

Looks very nice. You hired it out for $4k?

 

[joey1320]

Hmmmmm a beautiful M2 and a Datsun (Or VW) old school pickup. Lucky dog.

 

[1028garage]

Yeah hired it out and helped the guys here and there with the drains and getting rid of the dirt...total was $4k. Which is crazy because like I said prior the quotes from people I didn't know were all over the place. Cheapest was $3k but the guy didn't know how to install drains all the way up to $13K just for the slab. In the end a family friend who is a GC recommended this guy and his price was more than reasonable.

Its actually an M3 and 71 Datsun 521 pickup.

Had the electrician out yesterday to get a quote for outlets in the garage and in the shed next to it. I have tons of power in the utility room off to the side and I think I am just going to have him punch a hole through the wall and run conduit and outlets along the back walls. Then run one underground out to the shed for power + lights on a separate circuit. Waiting for him to get me a quote on that.

Had the garage door guy over today and he said they could do bi-fold swing out doors with the opener mounted just off the ground on the backside of those columns. I think that would be ideal for my situation but he kept saying 'totally custom' so I am sure it will cost me an arm and a leg.

GC is coming over tomorrow to help me figure out how to frame it in. That will present some challenges based on the roof again and how to attach the frame at the top. In the meantime I have been putting pond liner in between some of the joists to ensure the water runs to the drain under the deck rather than down the columns. The PO waterproofed it but didn't seem to pay much attention around the tops of the columns where the corrugated steel isn't flush.

 

[joey1320]

M3, my bad.

Any more pics of the Datsun?

 

[1028garage]

 

[rsanter]

Good progress
Have you considered using the space as is and building a separate garage?

 

[1028garage]

No because I don't have any room on my property to build a 2 car garage. I have another parking spot up at the top in front of the house but I wouldn't do anything there other than maybe one of those shade sails to keep the tree **** of my girlfriends car.

 

[joey1320]

Badass!!!!

 

[imok]

Very interesting build, thanks for sharing. I see your dog approves!!

 

[1028garage]

Bumping this as its now time to close this in.

Got a handful of quotes ranging from $4k to $9k to frame and finish it without garage doors. Got one guy (again recommended by same GC friend) that would do it all for $5k + materials which I would buy. That would include custom carriage swing out doors. Which at this point is looking the best deal because the cheapest custom carriage doors I have been able to find start at $2500.

I have some questions and would really like to frame it myself but not quite sure what to do with the openings. I can't nail or screw anything into the ceiling as its corrugated steel (99% water proofed from the bottom) and I don't want to create a leak. So I figure I could glue the top sill and attach the studs to the columns/wall and the bottom sill to the cement floor. None of this would be load bearing. I am planning on using these openers as well as they require nothing overhead: https://realcraft.com/products/franklin-autoswing-opener-for-swinging-carriage-doors

Questions:

1. Attaching the framing to the columns should I use a powder gun or hammer drill and anchor?
2. Some spots on the columns I would need to flatten, easiest way to do that is to grind them? If so is there any special blade?
2. Garage openings are 90" x 124" and the opener requires a minimum of 7 1/2" from the lowest part of the jamb to ceiling. My plan is to use a 2 x 8 header without any cribbing and 3 trim/jack studs to get the opening I want.

Rough drawing to frame the 2 garage door openings:

This should leave me with 8 3/4"" of head room which is more than enough for the opener. The swing our carriage doors would then be (H)6'9 1/2" x (W)4'8" if my math is right. Anyone with more expertise than me can you tell me if this plan is sound?

What it looks like today:

 

[1028garage]

Started working on the walls and closing this thing in.

Framed the side walls and cut out sections of the columns to allow for a flat surface for the ply and trim. Outside will be cedar trim and cedar shingles so it should offset the board and baton of the main section of the house nicely.

Plan is for a 4.5' x 6 3/4' opening with carriage doors made to match. Carriage doors right now are going to be 7/16 birch ply + 1/2 cedar ply + 1 x 6 cedar boards similar to design below:

Now I am trying to find strap hinges to work with the doors and settled on the ones below (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y69R1LS/?tag=atomicindus08-20). I don't imagine the doors will be all that heavy so 3 x per door should suffice.

 

[nadogail]

Looks Great, be proud.

 

[1028garage]

Thanks man.

One more pic showing the framing of the door opening. Still need a couple jack/trimmer studs on either side but its starting to take shape. Also not sure what I am going to do were the header/top plate meets the corrugated steel. I thought about jigging the trim to match but I think that would look odd. Maybe spray foam in from the back? Its never going to be conditioned or air tight because of the deck above but I would like to do as much as I can to close it in.

Forgot to post the door design in my last post:

 

[1028garage]

Back with more updates and pictures if anyone gives a **** lol.

Now I am struggling with what to do about garage door openers. I can get overhead door mounted ones for a grip ($1600 per opening) from RealCraft which is basically a reskinned gate opener.

Or I can get overhead split door opener (Sommer/Direct Drive) for roughly $450 per opening. After talking to a carriage door builder he suggested the swing out type because the overhead ones are finicky at best.

I am leaning towards the split door one just to save a couple bucks. But if I do go with the over split door opener (https://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/sosyswdogado.html) I have to figure out how to mount the track (only mounting point) to the ceiling which is made of corrugated steel.

Anyone got any ideas on how to do that and prevent it from leaking? I would basically need to mount a piece of angle iron to the steel roof with 2 screws and the track would hang off that single mounting point.

 

[1028garage]

Well I might have answered my own question, looks like there is a fair amount of solar panel clamps that may fit the bill:

https://s-5.com/products/clamps-brackets/corrubracket/

 

[1028garage]

Stupid website losing my posts.

c'est la vie.

Here's a link to the 8" hinges I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZRW9RFG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[CN Spots]

Looks great! Regarding the gap between the wood and corrugate... other styles are available.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibralt...VEtvACh1nRwjeEAQYASABEgJYgPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[1028garage]

Looks great! Regarding the gap between the wood and corrugate... other styles are available.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibralt...VEtvACh1nRwjeEAQYASABEgJYgPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I actually got that but it doesn’t line up with my steel. Mine is like a V whereas that is rounded. In theory it could work to just block off that gap at the top from the inside if I just attach to the header.

 

[Pluribus]

Interesting solution to a challenging space. Impression from the initial pictures was that the area under the deck was the low point, and I was worried, but in reality you were able to drain to daylight. Doing some work of my own with a transit right now, and it's wild how much our eyes/brain can deceive us as far as ground elevations.

Looks great!

 

[Pressingonward]

Nice work so far. Those solar mounts look like they'll work great for your openers.

Spray foam in a can above your header seems like an easy solution. Either block/mask the front to get a good surface or overfill and trim flush, then paint/spraypaint to hide it. No experience doing this, just throwing out ideas to consider.

 

[1028garage]

Yeah the garage is a low point but to the left is lower and where 99% of my down spouts and drains drain to daylight. Ill figure something out for the gap in the front but right now just having a hard time finding cedar boards, seems like with covid building materials are scarce.

 

[1028garage]

More progress:

 

[1028garage]

More progress..got the split door opener installed and working. A couple issues to work out but for the most part I am happy with it. Its quiet, easy to install and use but the specs by Sommer leave a little bit to be desired.

The other 2 doors should be done in the next couple days, ordered glass for them and I need to order another garage door opener. Still waiting on shingles from Maibec but hopefully done with this in the next couple weeks.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/149231725@N05/50081296102/in/datetaken-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/50081296102_25be0b1d80_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[Jayman17]

I've gotta say this has turned out way nicer than I thought it was going to. I just read your thread today and it looks great. Those doors looks nice. Enjoy your newly enclosed garage space!

Jay

Edit: Forgot to mention I love that truck

 

[TimTaylor75]

Such a cool transition. Looks really nice!