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CAT 6 ?

naturalgas

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I want to run CAT6 from my house to detached new garage while walls are open. it will be about 100’ run with 70’ in underground conduit already installed. I have no clue what I should use or where to purchase it. I’m just installing it for possible future use while walls are open. I’m also running coaxial cable for TV which I have on hand. Can someone give me advice on what particular CAT6 I should use?
 

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wyliesdiesels

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you will need underground rated cable.

I prefer shireen dry gel tape.


Is lightning an issue in your area? If so, fiber would be better but if thats out of the question make sure to get some surge arrestors.
 
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cgrutt

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Within conduit you'd probably be fine with Standard cable but direct burial would obviously be better. May want to buy shielded cable if there will be any other electric running through same conduit. I'd probably run 6A for no other reason than future upgrades to service, etc. Don't need riser or plenum for home use but jackets have better fire/smoke rating if that is a concern. I'd pull at least one extra cable while I was at it just for redundancy and if something happens to the cable in the future (although it's likely to happen to both if they're in same conduit). Id also consider pulling at least one fiber optic cable for future upgrades. You can always add a switch in garage if you need more devices so wouldn't worry too much about pulling alot of cables but at least pull enough to anticipate short term plans. Cable is cheap and it's much easier to pull now that everything is open. Good luck!
 
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naturalgas

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Within conduit you'd probably be fine with Standard cable but direct burial would obviously be better. May want to buy shielded cable if there will be any other electric running through same conduit. I'd probably run 6A for no other reason than future upgrades to service, etc. Don't need riser or plenum for home use but jackets have better fire/smoke rating if that is a concern. I'd pull at least one extra cable while I was at it just for redundancy and if something happens to the cable in the future (although it's likely to happen to both if they're in same conduit). Id also consider pulling at least one fiber optic cable for future upgrades. You can always add a switch in garage if you need more devices so wouldn't worry too much about pulling alot of cables but at least pull enough to anticipate short term plans. Cable is cheap and it's much easier to pull now that everything is open. Good luck!
What type of fiber optic cable would I want? I have three empty 1” conduits to use so no need to double up runs. Thanks.
 

wssix99

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you will need underground rated cable.

Wise advice. You won't want remnants of this and can find people online selling it by the foot. This type of cable is full of gel or goo that makes it a pain to work with, but allows it to live harmonious underground and in a wet conduit. Where I use this, I terminate it as soon as it comes above ground and switch to regular cable.

If you go with plenum rated cable for the rest of it, you'll have a quality cable that covers most the bases you would ever want: https://www.cablestogo.com/learning...as a,installation without conduit lowers cost.
 

cgrutt

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What type of fiber optic cable would I want? I have three empty 1” conduits to use so no need to double up runs. Thanks.
Fiber is not necessarily needed because the CAT6 is good for the distance you're talking about but if money is not an issue I'd pull at least one indoor/outdoor 6-strand single mode cable. Don't even need to terminate but it will be there should you need it in future.
 

Milton Shaw

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CAT 5 connectors are less than 1/2 the price of CAT6 connectors. The CAT6 wire is a heavier gauge wire and so is stronger. Use CAT6 wire with the lower price connectors. The difference in CAT6 and CAT5 connectors is in the shielding between wires in high interference use. Normally a home owner would not be needing that difference, just data centers would benefit. If you are doing this yourself get the LaGrand connectors and plier tool as it will punch down and cut the wires all at the same time instead of having to do each of the 8 wires one at a time.
 

Max

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I agree with the comments above. One thing to be careful about is to make sure that whatever cable you buy is 100% copper wires rather than copper coated aluminum (CCA).
 

wyliesdiesels

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CAT 5 connectors are less than 1/2 the price of CAT6 connectors. The CAT6 wire is a heavier gauge wire and so is stronger. Use CAT6 wire with the lower price connectors.
umm no. Most CAT5e plugs are rated only for 24awg so 23awg CAT6 conductors wont fit in the 24awg holes

BTW CAT5 is old and shouldnt be used anymore. CAT5e is what is used
The difference in CAT6 and CAT5 connectors is in the shielding between wires in high interference use. Normally a home owner would not be needing that difference, just data centers would benefit. If you are doing this yourself get the LaGrand connectors and plier tool as it will punch down and cut the wires all at the same time instead of having to do each of the 8 wires one at a time.
not true unless youre using CAT6a shielded wire which has overall shield and then each pair individually shielded. regular UTP CAT6 and CAT5e is NOT shielded

where do you come up with all this misinformation?
 
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u2slow

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Pick your battles.

I know my Internet tops out at 3MB/s, and I get gigabit connectivity on cat5E throughout the house and down to the shop. Plus two more rolls of cat5E on-hand. I have no need to buy fancier cable.
 

b-boy

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I'd go with fiber. It's not that much more than CAT6. You can buy pre-terminated cables online. I ran 300' of outdoor rated cable in 1" conduit for less than $200 several years ago (The conduit $ was separate). It's worked flawlessly and I get faster internet in my barn than in my house.

The hardest part was finding a decent cable puller that wouldn't ruin the fiber or didn't fall apart half way through the pull.
 

jblnut

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These “what cable should I use threads” always bring out all kinds of opinions, none totally wrong with some more opinion than fact.

As usual, @wyliesdiesels is recommending a very nice product. I’ve also used it and it will work great in this case. It isn’t inexpensive but it will be a lot simpler than fiber. Like he said, lightning is an issue when you run a cable from one building to another. Fiber eliminates this concern as does a point to point link. If you have conduit to use do not even think about a point of to point link no matter what anyone says.

I’ve use all kinds of gel filled outdoor cable and some have been better to use than others. I’ve also installed PVC jacketed Cat5e in places where an outdoor cable would have been better and most are still working after a decade or more. Not all, but most. Having conduit gives you the flexibility to pull something cheap (like some Cat5e) for now and upgrade later if you feel the need to do so. Most people will never be able to utilize the capabilities of anything better than Cat5e unless you’re doing a lot of data transfers or streaming multiple 4k streams at the end of that cable. Cat5e is capable of Gigabit speeds but Cat6 is better. Cat6a is not needed for what you’re doing.

Find yourself a chunk of direct burial Cat6, run 2-3 of them in one of the conduits and move on to other projects.

When going between buildings with copper wire I like to put a cheap 5 port switch at each end to act as a sacrificial device should something happen. There are actual surge suppression devices out there that are more proper to use but a cheap 5 port switch works okay and can be used as a switch as well.

Have fun with the project and keep us updated !
 

cgrutt

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These “what cable should I use threads” always bring out all kinds of opinions, none totally wrong with some more opinion than fact.

As usual, @wyliesdiesels is recommending a very nice product. I’ve also used it and it will work great in this case. It isn’t inexpensive but it will be a lot simpler than fiber. Like he said, lightning is an issue when you run a cable from one building to another. Fiber eliminates this concern as does a point to point link. If you have conduit to use do not even think about a point of to point link no matter what anyone says.

I’ve use all kinds of gel filled outdoor cable and some have been better to use than others. I’ve also installed PVC jacketed Cat5e in places where an outdoor cable would have been better and most are still working after a decade or more. Not all, but most. Having conduit gives you the flexibility to pull something cheap (like some Cat5e) for now and upgrade later if you feel the need to do so. Most people will never be able to utilize the capabilities of anything better than Cat5e unless you’re doing a lot of data transfers or streaming multiple 4k streams at the end of that cable. Cat5e is capable of Gigabit speeds but Cat6 is better. Cat6a is not needed for what you’re doing.

Find yourself a chunk of direct burial Cat6, run 2-3 of them in one of the conduits and move on to other projects.

When going between buildings with copper wire I like to put a cheap 5 port switch at each end to act as a sacrificial device should something happen. There are actual surge suppression devices out there that are more proper to use but a cheap 5 port switch works okay and can be used as a switch as well.

Have fun with the project and keep us updated !
Good point about lightening strikes. Just installed an Ubiquity surge protector and grounded the rack. The device on surge protector is a camera out on a flagpole took a lightening strike a couple months ago and knocked out the switch. The protector was cheap and easy to install but you need one for each line that needs protection. We just did the camera on flagpole.

Surge protector mounted to side of rack

20241104_112019.jpg

Grounded rack to service panel above it

20241104_112034.jpg
 
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pbon

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I have a number of 100+ foot runs of CAT6 inside a commercial building and it works fine for my non-extreme data loads. None of mine is in conduit with 110-220V electric and I don’t know the rules on that — my recollection is that if low voltage lines are with high voltage lines in the same raceway or electrical box, the low voltage cable must be rated at least as high as the highest voltage cable. I used 300V or 600V rated cable for my 10V dimmer lines in such cases. And buried cables have additional rules.
 

jblnut

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Here ya go for the fiber crowd ….. there are lots of different fiber assemblies you can use, I just snagged a few off Amazon for price visuals. At a minimum you’ll need a 100’ fiber patch cable, two transceivers, and a device at each end to go from fiber to copper. Looking at around $100 with stuff off Spamazon.

Fiber patch cable - https://www.amazon.com/Uniboot-Outd...-OD-3-0mm/dp/B0CFM646F8/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Media converter / transceivers bundle - https://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-SFP-Dual-Transceiver-1000Base-Tx/dp/B099JF9KJD/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Underground rated Cat6 patch cable for comparison is around half the cost. Not breaking the bank going either way but the fiber will help eliminate spike issues between buildings - https://www.amazon.com/GearIT-Cat6-Outdoor-Cable-Waterproof/dp/B0873WMNPG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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