Cat5e to the barn...

[Cheap5.0]

Ive got a 250' run to my barn, im planning on running the direct burial cat5e cable out there from the router. Ive noticed looking around online that i can get 1000' of direct burial cat5e for $125 shipped + $8 for the crimp tool + $6 for 50 RJ 45 connectors (assuming i cant find someone local to give me 2). Thats $139 for 1000' of cat5 delivered. I can re-sell the extra 750' and the crimp tool when im done.

Or i can get 300' of the same cable w/RJ 45's attached for $125 delivered.

So i guess im wondering, what am i missing? Why would someone buy the 300' spool?

 

[1fastvx]

Be sure you also install lightning arrestors on both ends of that cat5e cable to protect all the attached equipment.

John

 

[geologist]

A lot of people can't seem to make a decent cable themselves. Thinking back to vocational school (11 years ago) the first few that I made were a real pain in the ***. A lot of people probably buy the 300' spool because the wiring / pin-out diagrams are slightly confusing unless you know what you're doing.

 

[Cheap5.0]

Be sure you also install lightning arrestors on both ends of that cat5e cable to protect all the attached equipment.

John

Thanks, i didnt think of that.

A lot of people can't seem to make a decent cable themselves. Thinking back to vocational school (11 years ago) the first few that I made were a real pain in the ***. A lot of people probably buy the 300' spool because the wiring / pin-out diagrams are slightly confusing unless you know what you're doing.

For the price, ill do it till i get it right. I can understand that, but it seems like i have plenty of time to **** around with stuff like this so why not?

 

[malibu101]

Be sure you also install lightning arrestors on both ends of that cat5e cable to protect all the attached equipment.

John

I am NOT trying to hijack this thread, but as part of helping the OP I ask the following........


Do you have any details on doing this? Parts? What do you have?

I have a Cat6 running from the router in the house directly to the computer in the detached garage for a few years now without a problem.
I gave passing thought to lightning protection over the years but never researched anything about it. I didn't really care enough since the garage and house computers are just basic, cheap web surfing/email machines. Nothing I will cry about if they get toasted.

However, I now have a $1K television that is plugged into the router too.
I might cry if that fried.

I will be watching this thread for advice to the OP and other readers.

 

[Steevo]

You want to be sure that the total distance from active device to active device (router to PC/laptop) is 100 meters or less (328 feet). This includes any patch cables plus the long run between buildings.

 

[mayday0017]

You want to be sure that the total distance from active device to active device (router to PC/laptop) is 100 meters or less (328 feet). This includes any patch cables plus the long run between buildings.

Beat me to it, if he goes to far he will have to use a repeater to make things happen...

 

[1fastvx]

Something like in the link below would work for the lightning protection. From what I understand the ground differential between the buildings tends to attract issues with lightning.

http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=22337

John

 

[geologist]

Make sure you cut the wires short enough that you can still fully slide them into the connector, but such that the external insulation / sheathing is also inside the crimper of the connector.

THIS IS RIGHT:

THIS IS WRONG:

 

[Cheap5.0]

I am NOT trying to hijack this thread, but as part of helping the OP I ask the following........


Do you have any details on doing this? Parts? What do you have?

I have a Cat6 running from the router in the house directly to the computer in the detached garage for a few years now without a problem.
I gave passing thought to lightning protection over the years but never researched anything about it. I didn't really care enough since the garage and house computers are just basic, cheap web surfing/email machines. Nothing I will cry about if they get toasted.

However, I now have a $1K television that is plugged into the router too.
I might cry if that fried.

I will be watching this thread for advice to the OP and other readers.

Cat5 cable is pretty simple stuff. I have not looked into cat6, so i cant tell you a thing about that.

For making cable, you need RJ 45 connectors (the things on the end of the cable that plug into routers/pc's/tv's etc...the cable itself, and some special crimping pliers. Thats it. There are a lot of diagrams/pictures on the net of how to connect the RJ 45's to the cable and how not to connect them.

Like steeveo mentions below, dont exceed 100 meters. Thats the physical limit of cat5 without either another router or a repeater (repeaters are $200+...and good luck connecting a router into a power source, then burying it with your cable lol...so keep it under 100 meters).

You want to be sure that the total distance from active device to active device (router to PC/laptop) is 100 meters or less (328 feet). This includes any patch cables plus the long run between buildings.

Thanks for the reminder Steevo I am rounding up with 250'. The path i measured is actually around 230', but i added 20' for the vertical climbs and then getting into the building to plug into the computer.

I didnt check on ebay, i just found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300-FT-OUTD...hernet_Cables_RJ_45_8P8C_&hash=item231e3e5307

Thats 300' of direct burial cat5e w/RJ 45's connected for $50 shipped. I found my solution.

 

[tdkkart]

THIS IS WRONG:

It may be wrong, but it sure seems to be SOP in alot of places...........

 

[jeffmoss26]

I have run a lot of cable...always put lightning protection and ground on both ends whenever you leave one building and enter another...

 

[Cheap5.0]

It may be wrong, but it sure seems to be SOP in alot of places...........

Everyone works with a hack....

I ordered that ebay cable, for $50 i cant go wrong. If i remember right, that lightning protection burns itself out instead of burning out the NIC on the computer...but if the NIC on the computer is only $5, id rather burn that out and replace that.

 

[Coolerman]

When I put ethernet and phone in the shop (yes I don't have electric yet but do have satellite, phone and ethernet there already) I mounted a junction box to the wall, ran PVC conduit to the box, pulled all the low voltage cables to that box, then used Keystone connectors on the lid of the box. That way I don't have to worry about damaging the "main" cables just the connecting cable. Also did not have to have a crimping tool as the Keystone connectors are punch down connectors.

 

[Cheap5.0]

When I put ethernet and phone in the shop (yes I don't have electric yet but do have satellite, phone and ethernet there already) I mounted a junction box to the wall, ran PVC conduit to the box, pulled all the low voltage cables to that box, then used Keystone connectors on the lid of the box. That way I don't have to worry about damaging the "main" cables just the connecting cable. Also did not have to have a crimping tool as the Keystone connectors are punch down connectors.

lol...what do you use the net/satellite for without juice?

Good idea on the box, then separate lines.

 

[Coolerman]

Actually have a 10 ga extension cord from the wifes one car garage to my shop. It's about 35 feet. I can plug in the TV/laptop and phone while I'm out there working...

I'm picking up a bunch of stuff to start wiring the shop tonight...

 

[malibu101]

I have run a lot of cable...always put lightning protection and ground on both ends whenever you leave one building and enter another...

What piece/pieces of equipment do you use? I want to do something but have no idea on what I need.
Is there some simple "block" with an in & out jack?
Obviously it must have a ground connection too.

EDIT- I missed this post-
1fastvx
Posts: 131 Re: Cat5e to the barn...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Something like in the link below would work for the lightning protection. From what I understand the ground differential between the buildings tends to attract issues with lightning.

http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=22337

John

Thanks for this!

 

[warrend]

I have the same stuff from L-Com. I used the punch down style because I didn't want plugs anywhere but at the switches.

http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=22337

One at the house...one at the garage.

We did have a strike last month that punched a hole in my neighbors siding (maybe 50ft from my house). Fried a bunch of stuff in our house (oven controls, TV, phones, etc) but did not bother anything in the shop or my office. My office and shop both have UPS which took the hit on the 110 side and the L-Com devices seemed to save me on the data side.

I also have a coaxial lightning protector on the cable coming in just because I'm paranoid that way.

No I don't work for L-Com or have any affiliation. Satisfied customer and they seem to sell pretty good stuff.

 

[ADaughen]

If i remember right, that lightning protection burns itself out instead of burning out the NIC on the computer...but if the NIC on the computer is only $5, id rather burn that out and replace that.

Yes, the lightning protection should burn itself out and not the unit it is plugged into. The problem is, if you skip the protection it may not only be the NIC that gets toasted. The NIC isn't meant to handle that kind of current and may transmit it to the motherboard before it poofs into magic electrical smoke.

BTW, many NICs are on-board now days. Say good bye to $50-200 motherboard and/or the CPU($200), RAM($100), videocard($400)... ****. Protection starts getting more financially viable.

 

[aandpdan]

Make sure you cut the wires short enough that you can still fully slide them into the connector, but such that the external insulation / sheathing is also inside the crimper of the connector.

THIS IS RIGHT:

THIS IS WRONG:

Both are "wrong" all your doing is making a 250' patch cable.

What type cable are you using? Solid or stranded? Stranded is usually used for patch cables and used with the RJ-45 connectors. Solid is usually run in walls with jacks. Since it is "direct burial" I'm guessing it is solid. Most of those RJ-45 connectors in your pictures are designed for use with stranded wire.

Use a jack like this instead:

Run each end into a jack and then use short patch cables to connect. That way there is much less wear and tear on the connection. It also looks much more professional.

I'd run at least two cables as well, just in case. Put them both in the same trench.

 

[nehog]

... + $8 for the crimp tool ...

1. An $8 crimp tool is not going to create the best connections. I'd recommend a better tool if at all possible.

2. I would not (personally) use a cable with pre-attached connectors on it. Too much risk that one will be damage while running the cable.

3. Got flea markets nearby? I got two almost full 1000 ft reels (boxes) of 5e cable last sunday, one for 12.50 and the other for 5.00. I figure I got about 1500 ft of cable for 17.50--not a bad deal. About half (one box) was plenum rated, too.

 

[SCscoutguy]

1. An $8 crimp tool is not going to create the best connections. I'd recommend a better tool if at all possible.

2. I would not (personally) use a cable with pre-attached connectors on it. Too much risk that one will be damage while running the cable.

3. Got flea markets nearby? I got two almost full 1000 ft reels (boxes) of 5e cable last sunday, one for 12.50 and the other for 5.00. I figure I got about 1500 ft of cable for 17.50--not a bad deal. About half (one box) was plenum rated, too.

I actually bought this kit just to have one to keep in my truck and I was shocked at how well it worked. The tester does a good job as well for what it is. I normally just use keystone jacks and knock down punches along with patch cables but for the times I have needed to put a RJ-45 end on this little tool has worked great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150755297762

 

[pcmeiners]

"Be sure you also install lightning arrestors on both ends of that cat5e cable to protect all the attached equipment."

Your gambling even with lightning protection. I have a network client (in shipping), who had a cat5 between buildings with very good lightning protection and opto isolators. A ground hit over the cable area took out the protection devices (fried them), jumping over all the arresting components, lightning made it to the first network switch, luckily the damaged stopped at the switch. Even if the wire is in a grounded metal conduit, it is no guarantee a lightning hit will not jump to the enclosed wire. With buinesses I will not run a copper cable between buildings, it is either fiber or wireless.

 

[1fastvx]

I agree with the using fiber and that is what i would do. Most people wont entertain usuing fiber at all or even better yet and lightning protection at all. All to save a few dollars. Two media cnverters and a pre-terminated fiber pair is not that much, certainly less than the nice big LCD TV that is jacked into the same network.

John

 

[SeattleKent]

Any thought of burying two cables? The hard and expensive part is usually digging the trench. The small additional cost of a second cable is good insurance.

 

[Cheap5.0]

Any thought of burying two cables? The hard and expensive part is usually digging the trench. The small additional cost of a second cable is good insurance.

Not a bad idea if you live in an area with any amount of rocks in the soil.

I live in 75/25 sand/loam with zero rocks. Ive had a 50' cat5 run into my old garage for about 6 years now and its not even rated for burial, its been fine.

 

[Coolerman]

I have been in the business of getting different kinds of data from point A to point B my entire working career. I can say with great confidence: There is not a single protection device on the market today that can withstand a direct lightning strike.

We use devices made by Transtector for data (RS-232, RS-485, Ethernet and phone lines), and AC powered devices. These use avalanche diodes to absorb the spike and divert it to ground. They will take LARGE spikes on lines due to close strukes, but I have a box full of exploded protectors due to direct strikes. They are not cheap, but work very well when properly installed ie when they have a GOOD ground.

It's best to prevent the strike in the first place by mounting lightning rods on your building(s).

 

[jeffmoss26]

ITW makes several good products:
http://itwlinx.com/product_classification/modular-power-protectors

 

[Cryptic1911]

run two lengths of cable just incase

 

[Tom McDermott]

In my experience, either punch-down or EZ RJ45 connectors are a lot easier to install and crimp than RJ45.

In the EZ RJ45 the wires thread all the way through the connector and out the front. The crimp tool both crimps and cuts the wires.

-- Tom

 

[Teken]

In my experience, either punch-down or EZ RJ45 connectors are a lot easier to install and crimp than RJ45.

In the EZ RJ45 the wires thread all the way through the connector and out the front. The crimp tool both crimps and cuts the wires.

-- Tom

They are super expensive but well worth the price when used in confined areas / tall heights.

If you're on a site where the runs need to be certified. This one single device will save your *** and your ticket!

Teken . . .

 

[beater74]

In my experience, either punch-down or EZ RJ45 connectors are a lot easier to install and crimp than RJ45.

In the EZ RJ45 the wires thread all the way through the connector and out the front. The crimp tool both crimps and cuts the wires.

-- Tom

that aint no 568B pinout

 

[71flh]

Since CAT5 whatever is old, and theoretically this is a long term solution, I'd think of buried fiber, preferably in conduit. A decent size pipe and you have a 20 year solution for problems no one thought of.

Think in the past, you get problems today. Extrapolate.

 

[Kevin C]

Since CAT5 whatever is old, and theoretically this is a long term solution, I'd think of buried fiber, preferably in conduit. A decent size pipe and you have a 20 year solution for problems no one thought of.

Think in the past, you get problems today. Extrapolate.

I have heard of a combo cable that has fiber, CAT 5E and coax. Pretty sure its for in wall use... But I like the combo idea.

If you use conduit, what you put in it is less of an issue.

Kevin

 

[ishiboo]

$110 in conduit to run 2" PVC 250'... seems like an easy choice to me!

Then pick up a spool of regular 5e for $70 and run one or two through. Use the keystone jacks on both ends as mentioned for the cleanest connection without having to invest in a crimper. This is "more professional" - a "professional" run would likely terminate in a 110 block on a patch panel, you're doing a miniature version of that

Fiber sounds extremely forward thinking, but it isn't... conduit is.

 

[Cheap5.0]

$110 in conduit to run 2" PVC 250'... seems like an easy choice to me!

Where do you find 250' of 2" PVC for $110?

 

[malibu101]

2" Schedule 40 PVC
Weird, I just bought some yesterday at a supply house for work. $53.56 per 100'
250' would have cost me $133.90.

Ishiboo's price sounds right.

 

[SCscoutguy]

Where do you find 250' of 2" PVC for $110?

At just about ever lowes or home depot? That is about exactly what it costs around here.

 

[Cheap5.0]

2" Schedule 40 PVC
Weird, I just bought some yesterday at a supply house for work. $53.56 per 100'
250' would have cost me $133.90.

Ishiboo's price sounds right.

At just about ever lowes or home depot? That is about exactly what it costs around here.

I dont know what i did....i priced it out at around $300.

 

[gabedad]

If you are going to exceed the 328 ft ( which is optimal) You can certainly run into data issues as you reach that point-then you may want to look at running Ethernet over coax and use some adapters. It is not cheap but you can get like 1000 ft+

Look at some of the products here:

http://www.veracityglobal.com/