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Catching debris under the drill press?

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1950ChevySuburban

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Ideas on this? I'm tired of the metal mess under my drill press. Thought of a magnetic circular catch tray placed below the surface. Any better ideas?

Thanks!
John
 
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outcast

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wouldn't a magnetic tray be hard to clean :headscrat

how about a regular tray ?
 
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bad_idea

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am i the only one that has long, curly q's wandering off upwards of 2-3 feet from the press? i find the best way to contain them is to walk around after drilling and get them stuck in the bottom of my boots. who needs to sweep when i can just pluck them out of my boot soles?
 
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Steevo

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bad_idea said:
am i the only one that has long, curly q's wandering off upwards of 2-3 feet from the press? i find the best way to contain them is to walk around after drilling and get them stuck in the bottom of my boots. who needs to sweep when i can just pluck them out of my boot soles?
Click to expand...

I find that my bare feet get all the really small ones that shoes and shop vac miss.
 
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A_Pmech

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Pretty much the nature of the beast, chips on the floor is part of manual machining. Now, if you're knee-deep in chips off a turret lathe it's time to do some shoveling.

:)
 
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Keep

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I position the shop vac hose about an inch from where I am drilling, catches a good 95% of the chips. Then the rest end up in my shoes.
 
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Falcon67

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Keep said:
I position the shop vac hose about an inch from where I am drilling, catches a good 95% of the chips. Then the rest end up in my shoes.
Click to expand...

This is what I do with the mill since it really slings swarf all over the place.
 
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trbomax

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bad_idea said:
am i the only one that has long, curly q's wandering off upwards of 2-3 feet from the press? i find the best way to contain them is to walk around after drilling and get them stuck in the bottom of my boots. who needs to sweep when i can just pluck them out of my boot soles?
Click to expand...

If this is the case,then your drills are sharpened all wrong. A properly sharpened drill bit has a chip breaker ground into the tip, behind the flute. Sharpening drills with a machine will get them sharp on one cutting edge,but shaped properly on the flute and with regard to rake.Useing a drill bit that does this is extreemly dangerous as well. The rouge chip can grab a finger or sleeve with serious results.Please fix your drill bits.
 
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Brad54

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I too have pulled more slivers from the soles of my feet than I can count! Damn, what the hell is wrong with us?!?! :)
When I was a kid and would go down into the basement shop with my dad, he'd toss C-clamps and hammers toward my feet if I wasn't wearing shoes.
Obviously that lesson didn't take...

For the OP: restaurant sheet pans are awesome for exactly what you're talking about. They're 18 inches wide, 26 inches long, and have a 1-inch, outward-angled lip around the perimeter, with a fully-rolled edge for strength (they're aluminum). Any restaurant supply house will have them new or used, and a town of any reasonable size will have a restaurant supply store. You'll find a use for every single one you get.

Lots of really handy things for the shop at a restaurant supply store.

-Brad
 
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1950ChevySuburban

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It's a floor model. I use the shop-vac, just thought something easier would be out there. Very small space, so sometimes when vacuuming small parts get sucked in that I wanted to keep.
 
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bullfrog123

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Old metal 13 gallon garbage can works great for me. Empty out every month or so. Keeps cutting oil contained too:thumbup:
 
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bad_idea

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trbomax said:
If this is the case,then your drills are sharpened all wrong. A properly sharpened drill bit has a chip breaker ground into the tip, behind the flute. Sharpening drills with a machine will get them sharp on one cutting edge,but shaped properly on the flute and with regard to rake.Useing a drill bit that does this is extreemly dangerous as well. The rouge chip can grab a finger or sleeve with serious results.Please fix your drill bits.
Click to expand...

w/o starting one of those hateful internet arguments with name calling and the like, what do you base this on? every drill bit i have ever used has been sharpened by the manufacturer. i have yet to buy a sharpener, so when a bit gets dull it goes in the bin with all the other dull bits waiting for a sharpener. btw... my experiences aren't solely in my home garage, i work in ship repair so drilling holes is a common task for me (my company considers drill bits to be a consumable and throws them out when they get dull).

sorry for the sidetrack everyone, this just seems like a serious issue that i am unaware of. if anyone else has experience/knowledge on trbomax's statements, please chime in. :beer:
 
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trbomax

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bad_idea said:
w/o starting one of those hateful internet arguments with name calling and the like, what do you base this on? every drill bit i have ever used has been sharpened by the manufacturer. i have yet to buy a sharpener, so when a bit gets dull it goes in the bin with all the other dull bits waiting for a sharpener

This is why you dont know about this. If you have any old time t&d guys or even milrights they should be able to explain it,I will try. A new bit is sharpened on a compound angle,you cant see it but its there.The leading edge is a few degrees flatter than the tail of the edge. Also a drill bit gets thicker in the twist as you move up the shank of the drill,so when you sharpen them by hand or in a drill doctor the length of the cutting edge becomes longer. A tool maker will relieve the backside of the flute when he hand sharpens a drill bit. When he grinds the end of the flute for rake,he will then knock that rake back on the leading edge so that the actual cutting done by the bitis only done by a narrow part of the flute,thus breaking the chip as it is sliced off of the material. The same proceedure should be used when sharpening tool bits for a lathe to,so as to eliminate the long spiral chip that can grab you like a piece of concerta wire and damn near cut whatever it grabs in half.I have personaly seen this happen to a guys arm while he was working on a lathe. Anyway,the compound angle on a new bit will not be duplicated with a drill doctor . I have never used one. My dad was a jouneyman t&d guy from before ww2 and he showed me how to do these things when I was only about 10 yrs old. For years all the bits and tools in his shop (not a home shop) were sharpened by me,only after I could sharpen and do set up was I allowed to actually run any machines.So,not to be disrespectfull to any one,but things like this are just not taught any more,people just throw dull stuff away.

edit) a spiral chip will also result if the angle on the leading edge is too steep in relation to the material,even all other proccedures are followed.Drills used in brass or bronze will grab if the flute is not relieved, even with a brand new bit,they also require a shallower leading edge angle than a bit used with steel or aluminum.
Click to expand...
 
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Twiggss

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middle
trbomax said:
bad_idea said:
w/o starting one of those hateful internet arguments with name calling and the like, what do you base this on? every drill bit i have ever used has been sharpened by the manufacturer. i have yet to buy a sharpener, so when a bit gets dull it goes in the bin with all the other dull bits waiting for a sharpener

This is why you dont know about this. If you have any old time t&d guys or even milrights they should be able to explain it,I will try. A new bit is sharpened on a compound angle,you cant see it but its there.The leading edge is a few degrees flatter than the tail of the edge. Also a drill bit gets thicker in the twist as you move up the shank of the drill,so when you sharpen them by hand or in a drill doctor the length of the cutting edge becomes longer. A tool maker will relieve the backside of the flute when he hand sharpens a drill bit. When he grinds the end of the flute for rake,he will then knock that rake back on the leading edge so that the actual cutting done by the bitis only done by a narrow part of the flute,thus breaking the chip as it is sliced off of the material. The same proceedure should be used when sharpening tool bits for a lathe to,so as to eliminate the long spiral chip that can grab you like a piece of concerta wire and damn near cut whatever it grabs in half.I have personaly seen this happen to a guys arm while he was working on a lathe. Anyway,the compound angle on a new bit will not be duplicated with a drill doctor . I have never used one. My dad was a jouneyman t&d guy from before ww2 and he showed me how to do these things when I was only about 10 yrs old. For years all the bits and tools in his shop (not a home shop) were sharpened by me,only after I could sharpen and do set up was I allowed to actually run any machines.So,not to be disrespectfull to any one,but things like this are just not taught any more,people just throw dull stuff away.

edit) a spiral chip will also result if the angle on the leading edge is too steep in relation to the material,even all other proccedures are followed.Drills used in brass or bronze will grab if the flute is not relieved, even with a brand new bit,they also require a shallower leading edge angle than a bit used with steel or aluminum.
Click to expand...

wow! good info. :bowdown::thumbup::beer:
Click to expand...
 
D

Davo3

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Fig, NC
My buddy has a HUGE magnet underneath a piece of plywood. It catches most and is easy to clean.
 
OP
1

1950ChevySuburban

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Tucson, AZ
Good ideas and info in here. I guess I was wrong, but I always thought the long spiral chip was the result of a perfect bit.
I've never gotten the hang of sharpening my old bits, but I keep trying
 
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bullfrog123

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RBailey said:
Be careful swarf and oil can spontaneously combust, especially fine swarf.
If it gets warm and wet it starts to oxidize this generates heat which can start the chain.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I don't drill enough in a months time to generate any significant amount of junk in the bottom of the garbage can, hence the reason I only empty it once a month. If in a machine shop type atmosphere I can see that becoming a real issue.
 
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