Caulk Drywall To Sill Plate?

[Chris702]

I have 2x6 walls over a 2x7 treated sill plate. However this creates an exposed lip on the inside face. After drywalling there is still a 1/2" exposed lip of exposed sill plate. The drywallers have held the drywall tight to the sill plate but I just question should I caulk this area? Not sure why, it just seems unfinished to me? I don't actually plan on finishing out the garage beyond how it is now. Or do I just leave it alone and tell my OCD to calm down?

 

[nadogail]

Will your cove base cover this? or perhaps your base molding?

 

[Chris702]

Will your cove base cover this? or perhaps your base molding?

I did not plan on doing any trim at the base because its 6-8" above the slab and very little chance of hitting it, not to mention 75% of my walls are going to be lined with cabinets and tool boxes. Really its just my OCD taking over and telling me the project is not complete.

 

[ItsNemo]

Quarter round...caulking would be fine too, just white outdoor silicone stuff.

 

[Bill50]

Caulk it, keeps spiders out.

 

[BillK]

I would have to put something there. Maybe a thin strip of lattice before you paint it ?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/America...1-4-in-Pine-Lattice-Moulding-268-LF/100096303

 

[acer66]

Caulking and/or a small moulding would be also my approach.
Any gap is a potential entry/exit point for draft, insects etc..

 

[Pntyrmvr]

Let it fade into the past.

Use OCD on more profitable issues like lining your tool box drawers.

 

[Kaizen]

Paint it all same color and you won’t notice it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[u2slow]

Caulk and paint is the most I would do. Extra trim in a shop is pointless.

 

[Killer95Stang]

I'm with paint both the same color and it will disapear.

 

[Viper98912]

Base molding

 

[Blsmith]

put 5/8 L-metal at the bottom then coat it like
regular corner bead, then add fire caulk at the bottom
especially if it's adjacent to to your house.

 

[didit]

In areas that it will not be hidden with cabinets, etc. you could use a product called "floor patch". Comes pre-mixed by the bucket or dry by the bag. A temporary strip of wood can be nailed horizontally on the drywall creating a guide/form that makes it easy to trowel a baseboard in place. It only needs to be applied thick enough to hide any surface protrusions. Pull the wood strip molds, fill the nail holes and paint it, same or contrasting color. I've done this many times and it is faster, cheaper and a better result than using any type of baseboard molding. Long lasting and durable too.

 

[curiusgeorge]

Maybe I'm overthinking it, but wouldn't it be better to leave it so if there was ever an issue with water penetration from the outside, it would have a better avenue to drain rather than be sealed up behind the drywall? Similar to hanging drywall in a basement and leaving a half inch gap from the floor to bottom of drywall?

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you leave it open for water to drain, I believe you have bigger isdues to worry about.


I'd caulk it along with the sill plate. You might be surprised to see how much comes in through those little gaps.

 

[glentre]

If your OCD tells you the wall is not finished, then it's not finished. I used 1/2" white pvc quarter round. No nails or paint needed, just construction glued to the drywall. Did my whole 1,100 sq ft garage in only a few hours.

Glen

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

...2x7 treated sill plate.

Treated for what? 'Cause it certainly doesn't look like pressure treated material- and it's in direct contact with that sponge- called concrete!

 

[like2wheel]

What gaps are we talking about?
Looks like it's the standard 1/2" clearance, and the sill plate would be 1 1/2 ", so it still overlaps by 1". I'm not understanding where the critter intrusion, drafts, ect. would come from.

I'd just do whatever you need to do to make you happy about the way it looks.

Edit; just reread, now I understand the drywall does not actually overlap the sill plate because it's wider than the framing.
Are you sure there isn't another sill plate on top to match the width of the studs?

 

[rayra]

'calm down'? no, you tell your OCD to f off.

You could put some sort of obscuring trim there, but then it's another edge / ledge to address.

 

[firebirdparts]

What gaps are we talking about?
Looks like it's the standard 1/2" clearance, and the sill plate would be 1 1/2 ", so it still overlaps by 1". I'm not understanding where the critter intrusion, drafts, ect. would come from.

I'd just do whatever you need to do to make you happy about the way it looks.

Edit; just reread, now I understand the drywall does not actually overlap the sill plate because it's wider than the framing.
Are you sure there isn't another sill plate on top to match the width of the studs?

I also thought this was an odd conversation. I would have assumed they hung it with 1” overlap, but maybe not. I can’t tell from the OP but he does keep saying “it’s just my OCD”