Caulking between patios and outside walls

[Leaky88]

Hi,
After thought Patios were added to the house I (the bank) bought.
The self-leveling sealer has started to fail and needs replaced. There are some sloppy spots
where the sealer run onto (settled) outside of the gap and onto the patio that needs removed.
Q1. How do I remove the damaged and excess?
Q2. When replacing with new, how do I keep it contained in a neat straight fashion as pictured?

Thanks
Leaky

 

[danski0224]

It can be removed with an oscillating multi tool and a "soft material" scraper blade. You will need more than one. The blade won't remove stuff that's in the grooves/pores of the base material.

You want a polyurethane expansion joint sealant. Sika is one manufacturer. "Self leveling" vs a caulk consistency might be quite difficult to work with. The final joint is tooled with a caulking spoon or other appropriate item. A solvent may be needed.

Some sealants skin over quickly, so they need to be tooled quickly.

The joint gap may need backer rod.

There is an art to a good appearing caulk joint.

 

[Re-Tired]

BASF also makes great concrete caulks. As for the self-leveling, don't use it on anything with a pitch or deep cracks or crevices. It will just disappear.

Sika is excellent, too. It's my go-to now.

I've used both, and (for me, anyway) the Sika is easier to tool. The BASF requires xylene for a solvent. Strong stuff, xylene. It'll get you light-headed quick. I've used mineral spirits, it just takes a bit longer to work.

Also, the concrete caulks are STICKY. Real sticky.

 

[Leaky88]

Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.

 

[billconner]

I like backer rod usually so the caulk is sort of hour glass shaped if you cut through it. Thin and flexible in middle but wide where it adheres to the two surfaces.

 

[dogdog]

Self leveling Sikaflex and backer rods... Just make sure you have it at as deep as the concrete or a bit more... I used a piece of large paint stick and put a stop on it say 6" for my concrete and set the backer rods then use SikaFlex self leveling polyurethane.... good almost 10 years now still like new even on city street traffic.

I have seen some cheap out contractors that set it only for 1" or less and they have deteriorated within 1 or 2 winter / Summer.

you might have to tape the wall and floor though... people like me are messy, always drop something.

 

[dscheidt]

I like backer rod usually so the caulk is sort of hour glass shaped if you cut through it. Thin and flexible in middle but wide where it adheres to the two surfaces.

backer rod does three things. First, it lets you fill a joint with less caulk, which saves money. Two, it makes the caulk joint properly shaped, hourglass like, which is important for strength. Three, and most important for joint performance and longevity, it ensures the caulk forms a two point bond, and not a three point bond, so it can move with the two surfaces its joining.