Caulking Expansion Joints....

[cashishift]

I want to caulk all the expansion joints in my driveway, and inside my garage. Sick of stuff getting caught in them, and then weeds growing in them in the summer.

What do you guys recommend? I've been told to use the Vulkem Self Leveling stuff.. I believe its 45 SSL, but its pretty pricey when compared to other options such as the Quikrete branded stuff.

So whats the dilly yo!

 

[ScaldedDog]

I used Sikaflex self leveling stuff in the big tubes. Worked great, and their "pink" color actually matches our driveway pretty well.

Mark

 

[cowboyjosh]

I had mine done. I also do this to many of the homes i build. Of course we sub caulking and sealing out especially since our garages and driveways are usually large. Sika is good stuff however its self leveling, there are some pro grade products available that be tooled and worked that are less mess then Sika.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I like the Silkaflex stuff, but if you have wide/deep cracks you need the foam filler "rod". I still used way too many tubes.

 

[jsb025]

I've gotten good results from NP1

 

[cashishift]

I like the Silkaflex stuff, but if you have wide/deep cracks you need the foam filler "rod". I still used way too many tubes.

yeah i'll use backer rod or sand where BR won't fit.

 

[cashishift]

I've gotten good results from NP1

More details?

 

[cashishift]

I like the Silkaflex stuff, but if you have wide/deep cracks you need the foam filler "rod". I still used way too many tubes.

Located the Sikaflex stuff.. 12 bucks a 30oz tube.

Now I gotta figure out how many tubes. I don't have a HUGE driveway.. probably start with 6.

 

[jsb025]

I used the NP1 several times. It is not self-leveling, but you could look into the SL1/SL2 lines. Each of these are made by Sonolastic. I don't have much experience with many other expansion joint sealers as these options were readily available at the time.

Here is a .pdf on the SL1: http://www.basf-cc.com.sg/en/products/WaterproofingSystems/Sonolastic/SonolasticSL1/Documents/Sonolastic%20SL1_PDS.pdf

 

[ConCretin]

Sikaflex and NP1 are both good products. if you have an actual expansion joint i.e. a joint that moves with changes in temperature, the caulk is less important than the joint design. Use a backer rod to create a convex profile on the bottom and tool the top to get a concave profile. This maximizes the surface area where the caulk adheres to the edges relative to the thickness of the caulking across the joint where you want the material to stretch. A nice sketch wold be helpful about now but that is beyond my limited posting skills.

 

[Markgyver]

Sikaflex and NP1 are both good products. if you have an actual expansion joint i.e. a joint that moves with changes in temperature, the caulk is less important than the joint design. Use a backer rod to create a convex profile on the bottom and tool the top to get a concave profile. This maximizes the surface area where the caulk adheres to the edges relative to the thickness of the caulking across the joint where you want the material to stretch. A nice sketch wold be helpful about now but that is beyond my limited posting skills.

Ditto....
If its a moving joint you dont want the sealant bonding to the bottom of the joint use a bond breaker tape or backer rod or even sand. I strongly recomend using the manufactures primer prior to installing the sealant. Also the BASF Sonolastic SL and Skiaflex 2C are available in a self leveling and a slope grade. IF you have a White Cap supply in your area you can usually find one of the two brands there. You can buy it in 2.5 and 5 gal pails but you need a special gun $50.00 and alot of skill to use it.

 

[WakonTonka]

Anybody with experience with this product? "Trim-A-Slab"

Their website: http://www.trim-a-slab.com/trim-a-slab-three-quarter.html

here is what it looks like:

 

[skamp]

Anybody with experience with this product? "Trim-A-Slab"

Their website: http://www.trim-a-slab.com/trim-a-slab-three-quarter.html

here is what it looks like:

I think it is like $3 a foot. Looks like a good product but expensive.

Steve

 

[WakonTonka]

Located the Sikaflex stuff.. 12 bucks a 30oz tube.

Now I gotta figure out how many tubes. I don't have a HUGE driveway.. probably start with 6.

I found a chart while researching all the available options for my driveway expansion joints titled "Sealant / Caulking Yield Rate per Tube" .
It is on a pretty informative website here: http://www.bestmaterials.com/caulk_sealants.aspx#Sealant_Caulking_Yield_Rates

 

[WakonTonka]

I think it is like $3 a foot. Looks like a good product but expensive.

Steve

Thanks Steve, I still haven't received a price quote on the stuff. I will probably do a per foot assessment of the caulk method (primer, backer rod, caulk, tape for clean edges) to compare to this product. If I do, I will post my numbers here. Then there is the time factor......hmm.

During this days' search results I also found a similar product called "Gap Armour". Amazing what one can turn up in a short time with search engines!

But I am really looking for actual users of any of the products used for E/J sealing, how did it work out for you and would you use the same product again??

 

[pattenp]

I've used the Loctite PL Polyurethane Concrete Crack & Masonry sealant to fill joints and it has held up well. It's about $6 for a 10oz tube.

 

[djjsr]

I used PL brand urethane that I got from Lowe's or Menards. It was not self leveling and is a beige/gray color. About $7 for a regular size caulking tube. One tube covered about 12 ft for me but the channels weren't very deep.

This may sound strange but I wanted the edges to be clean so I masked both sides of the channel leaving about a 5/8" gap. Then filled the channel and smoothed it with a bondo spreader. Once it was smooth I removed the tape.

It worked out great but it took a long time to dry.

 

[Theo911]

Don I do that when I do regular caulking jobs in my home. Really gives a professional clean edge.

 

[MWitte]

I have used Vulkem on my own driveway. I used the self leveling stuff on the first joint, but it was runny and messy. I guess it would be okay if your joint was perfectly level, but mine was not quite. I think it was the Vulkem 116 that I used on the rest of the joints with good results - it was about the consistency of a latex or silicone caulking. After 10 years, I have one joint that it has pulled loose from. The rest has held up pretty well

 

[NUTTSGT]

What I used in my garage.

 

[WakonTonka]

I appreciate the info guys!
Do any of you want to post some photos of the completed expansion joint caulking job(s) & indicate how long ago it was done?

 

[shannonw]

Another option

http://www.clarkconcreteforms.com/uploads/exp_jnt_slnt_1_.pdf

got a tube but haven't used it yet, i was ordering some stuff for the pool drains and since steigmier carried it i figured it was decent.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I appreciate the info guys!
Do any of you want to post some photos of the completed expansion joint caulking job(s) & indicate how long ago it was done?

Follow the link in my sig and maybe a page towards the end there should be a few pictures.

 

[WakonTonka]

Follow the link in my sig and maybe a page towards the end there should be a few pictures.

Well, I did just that and ended up watching your whole project come together, talk about an endless punch list! Nice work BTW.

So your joints have been caulked since January. Would you use the same product again?

I am concerned with the bonding to the slab edges issue for my (outside) E/J job. If the bead pulls away, bam: dirt=weeds in no time. Then again, the (insert) molded type product is not bonded at all to the edges of the slab, I imagine the dirt can work its way into that too. I kind of want to do this once, have it last a good number of years, look good and not grow anything. I still have higher priority jobs before I get to this one. Glad I started the research early!!!