Caulking Gun Question?

[Beemer]

On caulk guns does a higher thrust ratio result in more pumps to empty the tube?
If so then it moves less caulk per stroke, no?
I have a high load bottle jack that takes forever to pump up so I thought the caulk gun technology might be similar.

 

[dnschmidt]

Pretty much but it's not that big of deal. If you need is dispense a **** load of caulk at one time then buy a battery powered caulking gun. Otherwise for normal caulking a higher thrust ratio gun is the way to go. Particularly true for dispensing silicone-form-a-gasket when building engines.

 

[drmarkr]

M12 caulk gun is glorious...a Godsend.

 

[Beemer]

M12 caulk gun is glorious...a Godsend.

Too much money for the occasional times that I'd use it.

 

[Beemer]

Pretty much but it's not that big of deal. If you need is dispense a **** load of caulk at one time then buy a battery powered caulking gun. Otherwise for normal caulking a higher thrust ratio gun is the way to go. Particularly true for dispensing silicone-form-a-gasket when building engines.

What number do you consider higher thrust?

 

[drmarkr]

Too much money for the occasional times that I'd use it.

There are other, cheaper options. But if you're only occasionally using one, I can see why the money would be an issue.

But.... This IS the Garage Journal....

 

[dnschmidt]

Mine is a Newborn and is 16:1. Works great with Motorcraft TA-31 which the RTV used for the Powerstroke 6.0 and is some difficult to pump ****.

 

[Beemer]

There are other, cheaper options. But if you're only occasionally using one, I can see why the money would be an issue.

But.... This IS the Garage Journal....

I would have to put that in the same category as an electric grease gun. For once a year neither would make sense for me.

My M12 tools and lamps are a favorites, and I have more than I should, but I have realized that some of them were not bought for reasonable reasons. A few were just not good tools (circular saw and dremel type rotary tool).

 

[Sumboodie]

Mine is a Newborn and is 16:1. Works great with Motorcraft TA-31 which the RTV used for the Powerstroke 6.0 and is some difficult to pump ****.

I'd have guessed those turds were all melted down by now!

 

[tak1313]

When I researched caulk guns, I looked at a LOT of posts on pro painter forums, and the most recommended one was the Dripless (brand). At first, I thought it looked like it was all cheap plastic, but figured if so many painter swear by it, I'll try it.

I must say, there's something intangibly nice and smooth about the mechanism that pushes a much smoother bead. Could it be a placebo effect? Yes, but I also have a Worpro one that's highly rated, and this one seems to lay a better bead somehow.

Amazon.com

 

[Beemer]

When I researched caulk guns, I looked at a LOT of posts on pro painter forums, and the most recommended one was the Dripless (brand). At first, I thought it looked like it was all cheap plastic, but figured if so many painter swear by it, I'll try it.

I must say, there's something intangibly nice and smooth about the mechanism that pushes a much smoother bead. Could it be a placebo effect? Yes, but I also have a Worpro one that's highly rated, and this one seems to lay a better bead somehow.

Amazon.com

I ordered a Dripless to see what it's like. Can't beat 30 day free returns if first impressions are not up to expectations.
Perhaps they are not a frail plastic; I am thinking about my Rubbermaid cart that will probably outlive me.

On your WorPro, assuming it's the dual thrust ratio model, and back to my original question, do you think the higher thrust ratio choice takes more pumps to travel the full stroke of the rod?

 

[dnschmidt]

I'd have guessed those turds were all melted down by now!

Don't I wish. I've got two friends with these. That's one of the problems with living in a rust free zone. Car bodies last forever. If this was back North these pieces of **** would have rusted out by now. These two trucks look brand new. We are considering putting a Cummins into one of them. That's a pretty common swap out here in the desert.

 

[tak1313]

I ordered a Dripless to see what it's like. Can't beat 30 day free returns if first impressions are not up to expectations.
Perhaps they are not a frail plastic; I am thinking about my Rubbermaid cart that will probably outlive me.

On your WorPro, assuming it's the dual thrust ratio model, and back to my original question, do you think the higher thrust ratio choice takes more pumps to travel the full stroke of the rod?

Yeah, I was skeptical when I saw that it's like 85% plastic, but it does work REALLY well. I don't know if it's BECAUSE of the plastic construction, or despite the plastic construction.

It would naturally take more pumps, but it's really not noticeable in "normal" caulking because it really doesn't take much caulk to make a typical bead.

If you really need to push out giant beads, like filling concrete expansion joints, a 10oz gun and tube is likely the wrong thing to use, but even if you did, I would think it would still be an overall better experience because although it would take more pumps, the significantly reduces effort per pump would still make it less fatiguing overall.
The main difference I've noticed with the high ratio guns is that the lower squeeze effort makes for a more "consistent" squeeze, which makes the bead more consistent and less "gloppy."

 

[tak1313]

The photo below is when I did bullnose craftsman trim on our window. Just the casing on the right side is 49 inches from sill at the bottom to stop at the top (the first piece that sticks out). It takes one squeeze to caulk from top to bottom with the Dripless.

 

[ohhimark]

Don't I wish. I've got two friends with these. That's one of the problems with living in a rust free zone. Car bodies last forever. If this was back North these pieces of **** would have rusted out by now. These two trucks look brand new. We are considering putting a Cummins into one of them. That's a pretty common swap out here in the desert.

They are rusted out, but for some reason they are still here, rust unrepaired, with deep offset wheels

 

[dscheidt]

On your WorPro, assuming it's the dual thrust ratio model, and back to my original question, do you think the higher thrust ratio choice takes more pumps to travel the full stroke of the rod?

yes, of course. It's mechanical advantage -- more movement at the handle for less movement at the plunger means more force on the caulk for the same squeeze. What thrust ratio you want depends on what you're spreading. latex painters caulk can be done very well with a low thrust ratio gun, but I find it's easier with slightly higher on (I think the one I use is 10:1) because it dumps less caulk per squeeze, so I have more control (I am not a good caulker, and make no claims otherwise.) . for thick stuff, I have a much higher ratio one.) If I were to have just one, it owuld be a 16:1 probably, because I don't use enough caulk to care that something else is faster.

 

[billford]

Question about dripless caulking guns:

I have a non-dripless caulking gun, when I'm applying a long bed, the caulk continues to flow when I'm pumping the handle and it looks like a seemless fairly smooth caulking bead.

With a dripless gun, if your applying a long bead and have to pump the handle several times, since the caulk stops flowing when you release the handle, do you end up with a gap or clumps in the bead?

 

[GeoBruin]

Question about dripless caulking guns:

I have a non-dripless caulking gun, when I'm applying a long bed, the caulk continues to flow when I'm pumping the handle and it looks like a seemless fairly smooth caulking bead.

With a dripless gun, if your applying a long bead and have to pump the handle several times, since the caulk stops flowing when you release the handle, do you end up with a gap or clumps in the bead?

You have to stop the gun from moving across the surface while your trigger is resetting. But it only takes a fraction of a second (literally). If you're good, you can make it look almost seamless.

In my case, I always go back and wipe the bead with my finger so I can smooth out any minor inconsistencies. If you're not doing that, it might be a bigger issue.

For me, it's worth it to go dripless (I'll never go back) but maybe there is an arguement for keeping both if you have a specific need to have a continuous, perfect, uninterrupted bead that you won't be smoothing after the fact.

 

[WWheeler]

The photo below is when I did bullnose craftsman trim on our window. Just the casing on the right side is 49 inches from sill at the bottom to stop at the top (the first piece that sticks out). It takes one squeeze to caulk from top to bottom with the Dripless.

Obligatory ...

 

[Shiftless]

 

[b-dog]

One more vote for dripless and both of mine have a switch to turn on/off the dripless feature. I have the all plastic ETS3000 and I like it more than the metal SI300. I needed the metal one with a higher thrust ratio to push some thicker sealant. But, in dripless mode with the SI300, the plunger rod slips back and when I pull the trigger, nothing happens. It's a 2-handed operation to hold the tube to the front of the gun and then start pulling the trigger. The plastic housing on the ETS3000 is cracked but probably due to my pushing it too hard, I'll buy another one at some point.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Nobody has mentioned these but Pneumatic caulk guns are cheap and if you want to get a lot of caulk out quick they excel at that, just turn the pressure up. With air nailers still being used, air is available on most job sites although that is decreasing with cordless nail guns. I haven't been on job sites recently but the last roof I had done they used all Pneumatic coil nailers with one compressor powering 5 or 6. Gas compressor running all the time with unloader instead of on and off motor like you would use with electric.