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Caulking kitchen tile backsplash question

branimal

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Do you caulk where the tile backsplash and the vertical edge of the cabinets meet? See pic.
 

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Viper98912

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The only reason to caulk that area is to clean up the edge and make it look a little more flush. So for me that's a yes
 

67CarGuy

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Agreed - and for those of you who have never tiled before, a kitchen or bathroom backsplash is a great introduction, in my opinion. Especially if using basic ceramic tiles, as you don't need an expensive wet saw to cut them, and if you make a mistake the tiles are usually small enough that you can sacrifice a few to your learning curve.
 

billconner

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I don't like the look of that vertical caulk so either install an end panel after tiling or tile first and install wall cabinets after. Looks more like a tile wall than a walk covering.

No vertical caulk or grout in vertical corners. Bound to crack or gap. I use the vertical metal channels on one side with other tiled behind or on both sides. Looks more finished to my eye.
 

yeldogt

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Caulk to me is always the last thing I use ........ anyplace .... hate the stuff. Looks horrible

Just grout ... most of the stuff is modified today -- I'm assuming with the tight space it's un-sanded? Protect the cabinet side ..

You could have tiled and placed the cabinets on top and used bull nose on the end if it's open
 
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Pike2350

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For that I would likely grab a small trim piece and attach it to the cabinet.

Like this 1639672107510.png
while caulk would work, it can be difficult to look good. It can, and would work...but it can also discolor over time, especially if it's over the stove.
 

duneslider

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Technically speaking, any change of plane will have some amount of movement. Historically, those are all caulked. Today, there are a lot of good grouts that have much more flex than "regular" portland based grout. On my own house if I am using one of these newer grouts I wait and see what will happen, easy to caulk later. For paying customers I ALWAYS grout because its cheaper to do it before I leave rather than get a call back and have to go back months later.

I just built a house and there are only 2 places that have shown a little movement and I may caulk. The counter to backsplash in the kitchen and the tub to wall tile in one bathroom. The backsplash to cabinets has not moved. Anyway, I don't love caulk and it will require recaulking sometime in the future. In my own house I avoid it if possible. For the tub to tile transition this pretty much ALWAYS moves (floor and wall locations), I haven't ever seen those not need to be done. I always use silicone caulk there in a color matching the tub.
 
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jonshonda

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They make sanded caulk that looks exactly like the grout, you guys maybe just aren't aware of it? Every project I have done using sanded caulk was almost a perfect match.
 

yeldogt

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They make sanded caulk that looks exactly like the grout, you guys maybe just aren't aware of it? Every project I have done using sanded caulk was almost a perfect match.
It's still a caulked joint .... unless you can wipe it. If something is dead white -- white Phenoseal is the best IMO. I also Phenoseal prior to painting. It does come in colors. When people say "caulk" they are often speaking about the more typical type.
 

duneslider

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Sanded caulk can look pretty good but it is still caulk and can still grow mildew in showers as it is food for the mildew. It can still stretch and fall out. Sanded caulk also tends to have less stretch than no sanded caulk. You can get sanded silicone caulk and it has more stretch but it doesn't match as well due to a big sheen difference.
 

engineer2

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I don't bother unless:
It's a highly visible end cabinet​
The gap is uneven for whatever reason​
There is a reason to keep dirt, water, grease out​
 

csp

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They make sanded caulk that looks exactly like the grout, you guys maybe just aren't aware of it? Every project I have done using sanded caulk was almost a perfect match.
I wouldn't want sanded caulk unless the grout was sanded. Given the small grout joint the OP has I would assume it's a non-sanded grout.
 

Viper98912

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I also like the thin trim pieces, if you have them from the manufacturer (color matched)
 

Superwilly

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Translucent caulk would be a great choice. Cut VERY SMALL tip off the tube of caulk, leaving slightly more than pinhole size... then assemble two wooden sanding blocks at an "L" and rub the caulking tip into that inside 90 degree corner to create a 90" angled tip on caulking tube. Get Sharpy marker and draw a line on tip so you know how to align, and get that tip right into the crack with JUST ENOUGH caulk but no more. Same technique for baseboards and casing btw.

Geez, I said tip and caulk alot. But you'll thank me later lol.
 

slowxj

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They make sanded caulk that looks exactly like the grout, you guys maybe just aren't aware of it? Every project I have done using sanded caulk was almost a perfect match.
They also have unsanded caulk to match the unsanded grout in the exact color. I prefer unsanded on a backslash with tight joints.
 
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branimal

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Thanks for all the responses. I used Mapei Keracaulk S. It's a matching sanded siliconized acrylic caulk. I masked off all the edges because the stuff smears about and makes a mess. I find using craft sticks gets me a better line than using my finger to smooth out the caulk. It is water soluble, but not as easy to work with as say DAP window and door caulk.

Interesting idea on tiling first and then installing the upper cabinets. Lot's of other complications with that, but at least you don't have caulk lines. That's why I tiled the exhaust fan area and chimney before I installed the exhaust.
 

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