CCA .60 lumber

[bluedog225]

I’m putting together some plans for a modest solar array. I’ll have concrete in the ground with Simpson post holders coming out of the concrete and then 6 x 6 posts connected with 2 x 6 runners and 45° supports, etc.

I’ve never had a problem with 0.60 CCA lumber in the old days. I’ll use hot dipped hardware or stainless.

It’s pricey and harder source. Do you think it’s worth it? Compared to ACQ or MCA or whatever else they’ve come up with. I’ve not had long term experience with the new stuff.

I don’t want to do this twice. I need optimistically 20-30 years service in central Texas. It would be nice if it was still in good shape when I kick.

And on a related note, is waxed going to make a difference in splitting and twisting?

Thanks

 

[mm08822]

Have you priced sch 40 galv pipe and fittings to do the same?

Do you designs need to be stamped in either case?

 

[bluedog225]

I have not priced the pipe. I’d love to use schedule 40 galvanized. It’s what I used on my other array. Though I picked up that pipe on craigslist. From memory the new stuff is a little spendy. .

I‘m at the digging holes stage so I have some time.

 

[bluedog225]

Have you priced sch 40 galv pipe and fittings to do the same?

Do you designs need to be stamped in either case?

edit to add, no approval or engineering required. Just common sense.

 

[LopezBart]

I'd definitely consider constructing the structure w/ hot dip galvanized steel; you may be able to find older galvanized boat trailer frames that can be salvaged as well.

CCA lumber is limited availability - "critical use" only. It was banned for residential construction in 2003 due to the arsenic content; it's carcinogenic and the risk to kids who may put their hands in their mouths after touching decks, stairs, etc. was considered significant.

 

[mm08822]

I would duplicate the design you already have.

As @LopezBart stated, the CCA product is limited sourcing. You may still pay a premium for it, way above the current PT junk on the market today.

 

[billconner]

I'd definitely consider constructing the structure w/ hot dip galvanized steel; you may be able to find older galvanized boat trailer frames that can be salvaged as well.

CCA lumber is limited availability - "critical use" only. It was banned for residential construction in 2003 due to the arsenic content; it's carcinogenic and the risk to kids who may put their hands in their mouths after touching decks, stairs, etc. was considered significant.

Somewhat off topic but can CCA lumber still be used for a AWWF/PWF where it's completely covered?

 

[Skiff Builder]

I don't know if your near the Gulf at all, but check with a marine piling/bulkhead contractor.
I get up to 7' cutoffs of 6-12" **** pilings, free from my local guy. 2.50 CCA.
Use for deck/shed footings- sometimes with a concrete cookie below frost if heavily loaded other times not.

Don't get a splinter from it though!

 

[jack stand]

Isn't old oilfield "drill rod - well pipe" (I'm not sure of the name) almost a surplus product down your way?
I'd do what I could to avoid wood for long term outdoor purposes.
The only thing that's harder to replace in this assembly would be the concrete footings.

 

[madhatter]

I’m putting together some plans for a modest solar array. I’ll have concrete in the ground with Simpson post holders coming out of the concrete and then 6 x 6 posts connected with 2 x 6 runners and 45° supports, etc.

I’ve never had a problem with 0.60 CCA lumber in the old days. I’ll use hot dipped hardware or stainless.

It’s pricey and harder source. Do you think it’s worth it? Compared to ACQ or MCA or whatever else they’ve come up with. I’ve not had long term experience with the new stuff.

I don’t want to do this twice. I need optimistically 20-30 years service in central Texas. It would be nice if it was still in good shape when I kick.

And on a related note, is waxed going to make a difference in splitting and twisting?

Thanks

The new stuff *****, if you have to use it pour concrete and use anchors to keep it from touching the ground and protect the ends to keep it from absorbing water through the end grain.

 

[Tractorsellr]

I dont know how far you are from Waco, but Repurposed Materials has 5in x 31 ft galvanized steel pipe for $91.50 a joint.
801 East Loop 340.

 

[bluedog225]

I dont know how far you are from Waco, but Repurposed Materials has 5in x 31 ft galvanized steel pipe for $91.50 a joint.
801 East Loop 340.

Thanks everyone. I found this and it’s right down the street, in country sort of way. The fellow will deliver it for $5.75 a foot. Not a bad deal. I don’t think. As far as I can tell, it’s stronger than a 6” x 6” southern yellow pine post. I’ll set it in concrete and bolt galvanized c-purlins to it. Then solar panel rail across the top.

had twenty holes dug today. It’s amazing how quickly the right equipment can knock out a job.

every hole had different soil. no wonder the septic guy was so frustrated.

 

[BurtEggley]

you might consider putting the underground portion in PVC tubing if it will fit. Lots of places carry it now. The original cedar fence here lasted 10 years before falling over. The one I put in with plastic tubing and redwood lasted 22 years, and only a couple posts in wet areas were partially rotted. Trick is to caulk the seam between the lumber and PVC. I forget who has the PVC but the prices are all over the place so shop. Some big box stores sell it for 4X or 5X as much as other places. If you can get longer ones you can get 2 or 3 pieces out of each one. They totally stop water migration into a post unless water comes up from underneath, or you don't caulk it, or leave the top open.

 

[pcmeiners]

Does not look like lot of dirt from those holes, is it the image ..... what about hurricane winds as more than usual are coming in the years to come due to global warming .