Ok, I am now officially off my electronic TW kick. Am down to CDI or Tekton click type 1/2” 20-150. I have a Tekton low range which I use for valve covers and water pumps. It seems to be very high quality with a nice solid click at 9 ft lbs. The USA made CDI is about $100 more than Tekton and no doubt is higher quality, but I am confident the Tekton is good enough for my needs. Are there reasons to pay $100 more for the CDI? Thanks.
CDI vs Tekton Click Type Torque Wrench
- Thread starter artbuc
- Start date
WhiffySpark
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2009
- Messages
- 6,252
Yeah cdi without question. Cdi or precision
Wouldn’t trust Renton
Wouldn’t trust Renton
pepi
Well-known member
Yes CDI, another reason, the scales are engraved. No need to torque valve covers, just apply even pressure.
RPH
Well-known member
Look at the tekton threads here, and you will see plenty of happy campers. There warranty issues that have come up have been resolved quickly with satisfaction. The money you save can be used on something else you desire. All the tools that my son and I share from tekton function great. The torque wrench that died was replaced within 72 hours. Can’t ask for more.
Diesel Mercedes
Well-known member
The Tektons are very good actually, I have the 1/2 click type, love it.
I also have a precision 3/8th split beam, it's a fine piece of engineering, I use it only for engine fasteners like when I had to torque down the camshaft bearing towers.
The tekton I use for everything else, brakes, suspension, wheels etc.
If uou're just a DIYer, the Tekton is great.
I also have a precision 3/8th split beam, it's a fine piece of engineering, I use it only for engine fasteners like when I had to torque down the camshaft bearing towers.
The tekton I use for everything else, brakes, suspension, wheels etc.
If uou're just a DIYer, the Tekton is great.
anndel
Well-known member
Tekton, Precision Instruments, CDI - you can't go wrong with either.
JohnDeere1
Banned
CDI the higher quality is worth it but both do the same thing I have a CDI rebranded Wright that goes to 250 and I paid $60 for it used but it's like brand new. I also had a Cornwell basically exact same rebranded CDI paid the same and sold it. I have handled the Tektons I'd chose CDI anyway I like the grips and the locking mechanism better just pull the collar down and turn it locks itself.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Ask yourself how much you will save when your cheap torque wrench causes a failure? Buy once, cry once and you will have it for life. Why cheap out on something that demands precision?
How many failures have you witnessed? There is a lot more to torquing a fastener correctly. Are the threads clean on both parts? Are the specs for oiled or dry threads? Condition of mating surfaces between bolt (nut) and what it is being tightened onto? Friction loss accounts for something like 80% of the torque on a bolt, this is why almost all manufacturers have gone to torque angle for almost all of the critical fastening points. Traditional torque measurement for a fastener is just going to get you into the ballpark. For most of us (even professionals) most any torque wrenches will be fine.
1950mercury
Well-known member
Not sure if it's still the case but tektons is the same as harbor freight...cdi or pi if you want nice quality at a reasonable price
openwheelracing88
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2015
- Messages
- 266
Tekton for sure.
These are not lifetime tools. They need to be calibrated after a period of time. Freshly calibrated from factory is better. I would trust a new Tekton over a 20 year old CDI that has been thru who knows what. I trust them equally when they are both new.
I just bought a 3/8 click type torque wrench from Lowe's. Kobalt brand but it is higher quality than the HF and Tekton. It is on sale.
These are not lifetime tools. They need to be calibrated after a period of time. Freshly calibrated from factory is better. I would trust a new Tekton over a 20 year old CDI that has been thru who knows what. I trust them equally when they are both new.
I just bought a 3/8 click type torque wrench from Lowe's. Kobalt brand but it is higher quality than the HF and Tekton. It is on sale.
Last edited:
Moparman390
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2016
- Messages
- 437
lightning02
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2013
- Messages
- 2,677
i have owned a HF and i returned it less then 24hrs later. was a POS.
i now own a Precision Instruments and its a really nice tool.
i now own a Precision Instruments and its a really nice tool.
guy48065
Well-known member
Why are you using a 20-150 at 9 ft-lbs?
The scale might go to 20 but the calibrated range is 30-150. Anything lower is a risk.
tdott
Well-known member
My CDI works well.
I was referring to the solid click on my low range 1/4” drive Tekton. Did you read my post? It was pretty clear.
RPH
Well-known member
You’re first post answered your own question, you have a Tekton that works fine. No reason not to expect the new one in the higher range not to work well. They already have proven to manufacture a good tool by your words. Go buy the Tekton and I’m sure you will be satisfied. Save the hundred.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
A lot. I work on offroad cars and the team I'm on tried the cheap tool route years ago. The thought was we lose a lot of tools out in the desert, so why buy the good stuff? We started with HF torque wrenches and they were so bad we gave up on them. We then went to Craftsman and Husky; they held up a little bit better, but we got tired of breaking them. We now only use Snap On and they hold up. When our torque wrenches are off it can cost $35k for a motor.......or worst, somebody's life when the car balls up. My personal torque wrenches are Proto, Cornwell (I think CDI made), and Utica.
I have a job coming up where I have to pull an aluminum motor to replace an oil pan. You bet your *** I'm following the factory torque specs with a quality tool. One stripped out pan bolt ruins your day. If the job takes me 12hrs, do I really want to bet on a "lowest bidder" manufactured tool?
Last edited:
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My CDI's have been great. I recommend them without hesitation. 
Wamsutta
Well-known member
I don't like that locking knob design on the end of the Tekton. Not secure enough to suit me.
I'm currently making the same decision. I have a 3/8 10-80 CDI that I have been happy with but I'm the the market for a 1/2 30-250. The CDI is about $150 while the tekton is $50. For that difference I could also buy a torque screwdriver for my gun sights.
I know I'm gonna be hard pressed to beat the snap-on quality with the CDI, but I guess I'm just wondering what kind of accuracy and durability the guys with the Tekton wrenches are seeing. I'm thinking it might be hard to justify a 3x price difference on something that needs to be calibrated occasionally anyways. Also know Tekton is great with their warranty but if that means something critical fails because it wasn't torqued to spec, that won't really mean much.
I know I'm gonna be hard pressed to beat the snap-on quality with the CDI, but I guess I'm just wondering what kind of accuracy and durability the guys with the Tekton wrenches are seeing. I'm thinking it might be hard to justify a 3x price difference on something that needs to be calibrated occasionally anyways. Also know Tekton is great with their warranty but if that means something critical fails because it wasn't torqued to spec, that won't really mean much.
kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
I am in the same boat. I have a CDI 100-750 inch pound 3/8 drive. But I find on atv's and small engines I am using the CDI at or near it's lower limits, which is not good. I was looking at 1/4" drive 20-200 inch pound torque wrenches. I can get a Tekton for $50 or a CDI for $160. Think Tekton is good enough quality for my needs given the price difference? Anybody have problems with Tekton's quality?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/?tag=atomicindus04-20
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/?tag=atomicindus04-20
This is not true and it would be nice if it weren’t continuously repeated. For lug nuts, suspension components, etc Tekton is a nice feeling decent quality torque wrench at a great price. The HF one is serviceable but feels like a complete piece of garbage.
I think it is wise to have a selection of cheaper but decent torque wrenches for most work and a high quality one for the jobs that really require +-2% accuracy. Wearing out an expensive torque wrench on brake caliper bracket bolts seems silly.
Utahtrapper
Well-known member
I got bought a 1/4 and 3/8 CDI torque wrenches on Amazon for roughly 240.00 for both. When I did my Injectors and valve lash on my Cummins they worked great. Also Have a Matco 1/2 inch I bought used and a Precision Instruments 3/4 inch Torque wrench which I also got on amazon for a great price
Not sure where the HF wrenches are built, but the Tekton is a Taiwan Torque Wrench and for the price pretty nice. I used it to torque the head bolts on my daily last summer after I redid the head gaskets as well as the rest of the top end and no issues thus far!
The CDI division of Snap On Industrial tools makes both Snap On and CDI branded tools to the same quality standards. There might be feature differences like the Snap On swivel head vs the CDI fixed head but no quality issues. Some Snap On came from other sources but if it looks like a CDI it is CDI.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
jalind
Well-known member
There's some bogus information being touted here.
The Tekton locking mechanism is a thumbscrew on the end of the handle. Works just fine for me and the lockdown is solid; the wrench setting isn't going to drift. The handle itself has a bit of play, but it's not the adjustment, just the handle. Some folks don't care for that and would perfer the lock ring. The CDI and Kobalt use the same type of spring loaded locking ring. Pull down on it to turn the handle. Some don't like that finding it awkward and cumbersome. There's a technique to doing it one-handed. The Kobalt was very stiff to turn past about 175 ft-lb. Ran it up and back a few times and it's not so stiff now.
I also have a SO 175 ft-lb Torquometer and the $80 Kobalt 50-250 ft-lb click. Wouldn't want the "comfort grip" version CDI but the metal handle. Comes down to a cost-benefit ratio. How often are you going to use a 1/2" drive 50-250 ft-lb torque wrench? Presuming you want one that goes to 250 ft-lb because you've got torques to set over 150 ft-lb. Think in terms of tasks or jobs per year (not how many bolts). Divide the cost of the wrench by that, and it's how much you've spent per task or job on the torque tool.
Are you working on $35k auto racing engines? General aviation aircraft? How much precision do you require? 5%? 2.5%? 1%? Do you require NIST traceable certification for the jobs at hand (not just nice to have)? If we all followed the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, we'd be lined up at the SO truck clamoring for $600 torque wrenches. At perhaps four jobs per year for a DIY'er who's merely maintaining a couple cars and saving $$$ wrenching on them himself, that's $150 in tool cost per job. For a $170 wrench that's $42.50 tool cost per job. Need a $600 torque wrench for lug nuts and brake caliper bracket bolts? The Tekton works just fine if 4% accuracy suffices for the tasks at hand and there isn't much for which +/-4% doesn't suffice. Both the Tekton and the Kobalt have been close enough and knew it with the force required when I took the bolts out later with a breaker bar.
The Tekton is just over $52 on Amazon (if you have Prime it ships free) and $59 direct from Tekton with free shipping if you set up an account there (free). When I bought the Tekton I couldn't justify a $170 CDI torque wrench although it was very tempting. Bought the Kobalt and could justify that when I thought the Tekton had gone AWOL and needed one immediately. May sell the Tekton or the Kobalt some time soon. Both are working perfectly and don't need both of them. At this point I don't know which one I'll keep so I'm hanging onto both for a while.
John
- The Tekton and HF's Pittsburgh Pro $20 special are not the same. I have the Tekton and have handled the HF. They're miles apart in just how they feel, and in how the micrometer setting adjusts.
- The Tekton's setting scales are deeply engraved into the shaft and deeply cut/stamped into the handle. They're not wearing off anytime soon, unless you're wearing crocus cloth glove when you use it.
The Tekton locking mechanism is a thumbscrew on the end of the handle. Works just fine for me and the lockdown is solid; the wrench setting isn't going to drift. The handle itself has a bit of play, but it's not the adjustment, just the handle. Some folks don't care for that and would perfer the lock ring. The CDI and Kobalt use the same type of spring loaded locking ring. Pull down on it to turn the handle. Some don't like that finding it awkward and cumbersome. There's a technique to doing it one-handed. The Kobalt was very stiff to turn past about 175 ft-lb. Ran it up and back a few times and it's not so stiff now.
I also have a SO 175 ft-lb Torquometer and the $80 Kobalt 50-250 ft-lb click. Wouldn't want the "comfort grip" version CDI but the metal handle. Comes down to a cost-benefit ratio. How often are you going to use a 1/2" drive 50-250 ft-lb torque wrench? Presuming you want one that goes to 250 ft-lb because you've got torques to set over 150 ft-lb. Think in terms of tasks or jobs per year (not how many bolts). Divide the cost of the wrench by that, and it's how much you've spent per task or job on the torque tool.
Are you working on $35k auto racing engines? General aviation aircraft? How much precision do you require? 5%? 2.5%? 1%? Do you require NIST traceable certification for the jobs at hand (not just nice to have)? If we all followed the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, we'd be lined up at the SO truck clamoring for $600 torque wrenches. At perhaps four jobs per year for a DIY'er who's merely maintaining a couple cars and saving $$$ wrenching on them himself, that's $150 in tool cost per job. For a $170 wrench that's $42.50 tool cost per job. Need a $600 torque wrench for lug nuts and brake caliper bracket bolts? The Tekton works just fine if 4% accuracy suffices for the tasks at hand and there isn't much for which +/-4% doesn't suffice. Both the Tekton and the Kobalt have been close enough and knew it with the force required when I took the bolts out later with a breaker bar.
The Tekton is just over $52 on Amazon (if you have Prime it ships free) and $59 direct from Tekton with free shipping if you set up an account there (free). When I bought the Tekton I couldn't justify a $170 CDI torque wrench although it was very tempting. Bought the Kobalt and could justify that when I thought the Tekton had gone AWOL and needed one immediately. May sell the Tekton or the Kobalt some time soon. Both are working perfectly and don't need both of them. At this point I don't know which one I'll keep so I'm hanging onto both for a while.
John
Last edited:
I got real and bought the Tekton. I am happy with it just as I am happy with the Tekton 1/4” drive TW I already had. For what I do it would have been just plain stupid to spend hundreds of dollars on a high end TW, especially since I have no one to pass it on to.