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Cedar decking

garandman

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Oct 5, 2011
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Boston MA / Mt Sunapee NH
We have an elevated deck on our place in NH. The 1”x4” Cedar decking was installed tight: probably to create a dry space underneath. Snow and ice built up and unsurprisingly, it’s rotted out.

I’m going to install the new material with a gap - but how much? Temperatures are extreme (-20 to 95) and we get 10’ of snow per season.

Also, can I coat the decking right away, or should it age a few weeks after install?
 
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ford33

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Feb 26, 2011
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Chicago, IL. USA
You may want to go to fine home building website and they have an article on cedar deck installations. An 8 penny nail was mentioned but only if the wood was dry or semi-dry.

Purchase an inexpensive wood moisture meter with calibration for cedar. Check the moisture content of the wood and compare it to the coating manufacturers recommendations for wood moisture content at time of coating. In the past you could use time exposed outside as a gauge but with recent climate changes this is less accurate now.
 

SteveCh

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Dec 21, 2012
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I built my deck probably 35 yr. ago, the decking is cedar 2 x 4s. I made a couple spacers with scraps of 1/2" ply. Glued other wood scrap along one edge of the ply so I could set the spacers down on the preceding board and not have to crawl back and forth adjusting the gap at each end.

By the way, I brushed on a mixture of linseed oil and paint thinner [about 1 cup oil to 1 gallon thinner]. I soaked the ends of the boards in same stuff.

I repeated the linseed oil mix about ten years ago, just brushed it on. Deck looks great, no rot, nothing other than a couple spots where puppies over the years have chewed a bit.
 
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850xpeps

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If wood is wet I’d say 1/8” gap if dry then go more. 5/16-3/8.

By 1x4 I’m assuming you mean 5/4?
 
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garandman

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Boston MA / Mt Sunapee NH
I've built 5 to 6 decks over the last couple of years and used this system: https://www.camofasteners.com///

That raises another question. The decking is currently nailed. Should I go to screws instead?

This is the deck. We don't get out on it much but it's a nice detail. All the junk underneath is gone.

brook%20garage%203.jpg
 
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Copymutt

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Sep 3, 2016
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Colorado
Looks like a small deck. Why create more maintenance in your future. Opt for synthetic,Veranda/Trex etc.
 

ford33

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Chicago, IL. USA
After seeing the deck, I would go with a synthetic board but check the joist spacing. Some boards require closer spacing then what you may have there.
 

rayra

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Dec 1, 2014
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Escaped from Los Angeles
New wood will be wet, I'd **** them together and let the gap form naturally as the lumber dries / airs out.
Nothing is staying 'dry' in that under space, anyway, with such height and open sides.
I'd let them sit the rest of the summer before putting any sealer or finish on them.
 
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garandman

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Boston MA / Mt Sunapee NH
I've had the new wood a month or so now, going to check moisture level before I start installing.

It's inside and that garage gets hot as blazes in the summer sun.
 

nh_yota

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Mar 10, 2015
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Location
Seacoast New Hampshire
When I need to space deck boards I use a pair of speed squares laying on their side with the edge in between the boards. I think all speed squares are 1/4" thick on the edges.

I replaced the decking on my front and rear stairs 8-9 years ago with 5/4 cedar boards from Lowes and used the speed squares for spacing. The gaps have not widened much over the years. I think regular PT boards shrink more than cedar.
 
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garandman

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Location
Boston MA / Mt Sunapee NH
Note to self: next time get a nail gun....

Hardest part of the job was pulling the old nails. They are SS deck nails so I reused them.

Used a nail for spacing. Worked out just about perfectly, with a little extra gap under where water drips off the roof. Thinking about putting a gutter on it.

2019092120475177-5875884684293089037-IMG_0314-X2.jpg


Lightly pressure washed everything, I’ll let it dry out and stabilize for a week or two, then apply a finish to improve longevity.

2019092116404424-4262279234179506847-IMG_0315-X2.jpg
 
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