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Ceiling beam ideas for hoisting stuff?

drackett_19

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Apr 21, 2009
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This may be covered in another thread, but I couldn't find it.

I'm approaching the interior sheeting stage of my 30x24 garage and thinking its probably a good idea to put some kind of beam or reinforcement in the ceiling for future hoisting purposes, before I get it all sheeted and closed in.

I'd like to be able to hang an engine/****** or hang the cab of my old truck if need be. The roof is constructed of 2x4 gusset trusses on a 24" center.

I considered running a 24' steel I beam just below the ceiling, but cost is a factor and the beam may be overkill for what I need.

Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Ray916MN

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The low cost more flexible alternative is to buy a gantry crane. What is nice about a gantry crane is the ability to roll it and whatever is hoisted out of the way or even out of the building. The downside of course is having to store it.

The strength of a ceiling beam is typically more based on the load bearing walls on the sides than trusses. Most truss systems are built for compression loads (load from top) as opposed to tension loads (load from bottom). If you want to put in a beam, you want to think about tying a support column into the wall for the beam.
 
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drackett_19

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Thanks for the info Ray, I'm going to look into those gantry cranes, I could always store it under a tarp beside my garage...out of sight of course, lol. In terms of the beam, I was thinking i'd either run a beam below the ceiling, with each end sitting on columns inside the walls, or lay a beam inside the ceiling laying on top of multiple trusses. But I have no clue how much weight the bottom chords of the trusses can handle, since like you say, they arent designed to support that kind of load. Might have to contact the manufacturer.
 

rponfick

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When I was designing our garage, I just ask the truss people to design a struss for the purposes you outlined (and also for light storage in the attic). They basically doubled up one of the trusses in the place I wanted to lift from. Me, being ****, I then ran a 6"x6" landscape timber in the attic spanning about 3 of the trusses (on 24" spacing) and attached Harbor Freight chain pull to that. Just lifted a BB Chev. with ****** attached out of my '69 Vette. Have lifted bodies off cars with it also. Never any issues.

Ralph
 

1967marti

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I glued and screwed two 2x10's to one of the trusses in my shop.. I'm going to repeat the same on the next truss and have a small rolling electric hoist roll between them... I'm planning on using them to lift up to 300lbs.
If you want some pics lust let me know.
 

wssix99

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When I was designing our garage, I just ask the truss people to design a struss for the purposes you outlined (and also for light storage in the attic). They basically doubled up one of the trusses in the place I wanted to lift from. Me, being ****, I then ran a 6"x6" landscape timber in the attic spanning about 3 of the trusses (on 24" spacing) and attached Harbor Freight chain pull to that. Just lifted a BB Chev. with ****** attached out of my '69 Vette. Have lifted bodies off cars with it also. Never any issues.

Ralph


^^^ This is the thing. Typical engineered trusses are not built to withstand a high point load pulling down on them. You'll ether need solid wood or something specifically engineered for the purpose. (Either way an engineer and/or architect and more material in the ceiling is required.)

IMO - A portable gantry lift isn't that much more than the added structure/engineering labor and you get the added benefit of being able to move it around to where you need it and for whatever purpose.
 

Curtis_Peterson

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^^^ This is the thing. Typical engineered trusses are not built to withstand a high point load pulling down on them. You'll ether need solid wood or something specifically engineered for the purpose. (Either way an engineer and/or architect and more material in the ceiling is required.)

IMO - A portable gantry lift isn't that much more than the added structure/engineering labor and you get the added benefit of being able to move it around to where you need it and for whatever purpose.

I agree. They sell nice lightweight aluminum ones that one guy can dismantle and assemble. Easy to store in the rafters or attic if necessary.
 

tyjoja

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I've seen some that are attached to one wall on a swivel, and then swung out when wanted and store up aginst wall when not.
 
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drackett_19

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Apr 21, 2009
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When I was designing our garage, I just ask the truss people to design a struss for the purposes you outlined (and also for light storage in the attic). They basically doubled up one of the trusses in the place I wanted to lift from. Me, being ****, I then ran a 6"x6" landscape timber in the attic spanning about 3 of the trusses (on 24" spacing) and attached Harbor Freight chain pull to that. Just lifted a BB Chev. with ****** attached out of my '69 Vette. Have lifted bodies off cars with it also. Never any issues.

Ralph

Thanks for that info Ralph, I'm kickin myself for not requesting a couple load bearing trusses.

I glued and screwed two 2x10's to one of the trusses in my shop.. I'm going to repeat the same on the next truss and have a small rolling electric hoist roll between them... I'm planning on using them to lift up to 300lbs.
If you want some pics lust let me know.

Yeah if you could send me a couple pics that would be great. I'm thinking other than a Gantry Crane, my only real option is to lay a wooden beam spanning a few trusses and also maybe reinforce the bottom chords of those trusses by doubling them up.


Gantry crane... You can disguise it as a swing-set in the back yard when not in use..
haha, that should take care of getting the wifes' permission.

I like the idea of that swinging gantry crane! Gonna have to google that.
Thanks for all the replies!! this forum is the cats meow!
 
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BWS

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Agree with #12 above.Cpl HUGE advantages to this,you move...and it goes with you.Also,if it ain't big/bad enough...sell it and get a bigger one.Mainly though,they're completely independent of structure's framing.Best of luck w/decision.
 

Lippyp

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Sorry to hijack the thread, next year I'm re-roofing my garage and part of that involves replacing the existing timber purlins with steel beams as we are taking out an internal dividing wall that they currently rest on so it will need to span two bays (probably about 20 feet. This is a brick building with double skinned walls so 9" thick and a pitched slate roof so the beams will be sat on brick and I can build additional pillars under the ends if needs be to add extra support.. Its crossed my mind to over-spec the beams so I can run a beam trolley on them and use them to pull engines. Any idea what sort of size of I beam I'd be looking at, biggest engine will probably be my small block chevy so a fiar bit of weight plus the roof.
 

bczygan

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Sorry to hijack the thread, next year I'm re-roofing my garage and part of that involves replacing the existing timber purlins with steel beams as we are taking out an internal dividing wall that they currently rest on so it will need to span two bays (probably about 20 feet. This is a brick building with double skinned walls so 9" thick and a pitched slate roof so the beams will be sat on brick and I can build additional pillars under the ends if needs be to add extra support.. Its crossed my mind to over-spec the beams so I can run a beam trolley on them and use them to pull engines. Any idea what sort of size of I beam I'd be looking at, biggest engine will probably be my small block chevy so a fiar bit of weight plus the roof.

Not enough info to calculate.
Take total maximum load including weight of hoist and any other tackle. Double it for a safety factor. Decide if there will be rolling loads. Design beam for load and span. Don't forget weight of beam in calcs. Then design beams that will support this beam on each end. Then design columns. I would design this independent of the roof structure.
 

wssix99

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Its crossed my mind to over-spec the beams so I can run a beam trolley on them and use them to pull engines. Any idea what sort of size of I beam I'd be looking at

Can't the engineer you are working with on the project, confirm this?



I'm thinking other than a Gantry Crane, my only real option is to lay a wooden beam spanning a few trusses

This still creates the point load problem. If you have engineered trusses, which are designed for 0 point load on the bottom chord, splitting the weight may not help much.


and also maybe reinforce the bottom chords of those trusses by doubling them up.

If they are engineered trusses with nail plates, this may be very difficult to do and would also require an engineer to design in order to be safe.
 

Lippyp

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What engineer LOL, its strictly a home build job and the beams will undoubtedly be sourced used! I'll have to see if I can find some tables online to give me a guide.
 

Vegaman_Dan

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I want an excuse to buy a gantry crane. Typically they are on sale at $600 from HF. The primary advantage is that unlike a beam in your garage, you can always sell it later on Craigslist if you don't need it anymore. Try that with a part of your garage structure!
 

bams50

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One idea might be a 4x4 parallel to the trusses, with hinged 4x4 legs under. The legs swing up and tie out of the way when not in use. My Dad did this in our garage when I was a kid.
 

MoonRise

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This may be covered in another thread, but I couldn't find it.

I'm approaching the interior sheeting stage of my 30x24 garage and thinking its probably a good idea to put some kind of beam or reinforcement in the ceiling for future hoisting purposes, before I get it all sheeted and closed in.

I'd like to be able to hang an engine/****** or hang the cab of my old truck if need be. The roof is constructed of 2x4 gusset trusses on a 24" center.

I considered running a 24' steel I beam just below the ceiling, but cost is a factor and the beam may be overkill for what I need.

Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks!

Although a roof truss -can- be designed and made to be load-bearing (within certain limits), generally they are NOT load-bearing.

I'm thinking other than a Gantry Crane, my only real option is to lay a wooden beam spanning a few trusses and also maybe reinforce the bottom chords of those trusses by doubling them up.

No, you can not just go and slap some 'extra' wood or metal underneath the roof trusses and hoist away.

As mentioned, go for the 'swing-set' gantry crane. Buy it, use it, then sell it or move it.

A "jib crane" is another bit of rather 'engineered' stuff. You need the jib beam, the jib column, and the often rather large footing/foundation to keep the thing in place as well. It cetainly can (and is) done, but it is not as simple as just dropping a post into a hole in the slab and sticking a beam on top and saying 'Done'.
 

MoonRise

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Sorry to hijack the thread, next year I'm re-roofing my garage and part of that involves replacing the existing timber purlins with steel beams as we are taking out an internal dividing wall that they currently rest on so it will need to span two bays (probably about 20 feet. This is a brick building with double skinned walls so 9" thick and a pitched slate roof so the beams will be sat on brick and I can build additional pillars under the ends if needs be to add extra support.. Its crossed my mind to over-spec the beams so I can run a beam trolley on them and use them to pull engines. Any idea what sort of size of I beam I'd be looking at, biggest engine will probably be my small block chevy so a fiar bit of weight plus the roof.

Most brick buildings (at least on this side of the pond) have the brick as just the wall covering and not as a structural item.

So you'd have to design and put in support posts for the beam. Plus footings/foundation for those support posts.

Even if the existing brick walls -are- 'structural', it would be rather unlikely they are strong enough to handle the existing roof+wall loads and an additional beam+hoist+heavy-weight load, so you'd still probably have to put in support posts for the beam. Plus the footings/foundation for the posts.

Putting in support posts and a beam usually means you need a 'pro' to design and stamp/certify the structure. Pro being an engineer or maybe an architect.

Just as a quick ball-park size check, to span a 20 ft length and stick a 1000 lb load in the middle of it (simulate hoisting a big-block+the trolley+some yanking), change the load to 3000 lb to put in the required safety factor shows a rough minimum required beam size of a W12x26 A36 steel beam. The limiting factor (as often with mid-span loaded beams) is the bending of the beam. In this case, a 3000 lb load in the middle of a 20 ft long simply-supported W12x26 beam gives a bending stress of ~6 ksi against a max allowed bending stress of 10 ksi = safe.

A W12x22 A367 steel beam (next size down) does not meet the bending stress limit = NG.

A W8x21 A36 steel beam just barely meets the bending stress limits at 11.5 ksi calculated versus 12.7 ksi max allowed.

That's a rather big chunk of steel. And a rather big chunk of money to get that big chunk of steel.

Actual 'crane' design codes typically call for higher required safety factors (5x or 10x, depending on if used to hoist personnel or not), as well as design and inspection certifications.

At a 5x safety factor, your 1000 lb load is now 5ooo lbs for design calculations and that big W12x26 A36 steel beam just barely squeaks by as 'adequate' in bending at 9.88 ksi calculated versus 10.10 ksi max allowed.

disclaimer: this advice is not legally binding, objects in mirror are closer than they appear, flammable substances may be inflammable, actual mileage may vary, no puppies were harmed in the making of this film, this calculation worth what you payed for it (zero), etc, etc, etc

Building Codes are usually sized/made for the building itself. A trolley-hoist beam is not in the usual BuildingCodes, so you 'd have to get an engineer (or architect) to do the calcs and stamp/sign-off on it.

Trying to put in a roof beam that is holding up itself + the roof loads + a trolley/hoist load means the required beam is much bigger than the aforementioned W12x26 A36 beam.

You really do need a licensed structural design engineer to do all the 'certified' calcs if you are going to put in a beam hoist.
 
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