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Ceiling Fan for 40'x40'x14'

TrippleT

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TheEquineFencer

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I'd get a commercial grade fan, maybe 56-60 inch with metal blades and put it right in the middle of the shop. If you get one, I'd get a curved tip blade if you can, it'll spread the air out more when blowing down. Previously I had 5 in the old shop, when I add one in here that's what I'm going to do, one fan right in the middle. 40x60x16 is my shop size.
 
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TrippleT

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I'd get a commercial grade fan, maybe 56-60 inch with metal blades and put it right in the middle of the shop. If you get one, I'd get a curved tip blade if you can, it'll spread the air out more when blowing down. Previously I had 5 in the old shop, when I add one in here that's what I'm going to do, one fan right in the middle. 40x60x16 is my shop size.

So I initially purchased 4 5-bladed 60" fans that I got from Lowes @ $60 a pop. . . . but I never got around to getting all the supporting hardware to install and wire them. I recently saw the 72" fan on the Lowes site and thought it may be a viable option and reduce the amount of time/work (I'd rather spend my time turning wrenches than installing fans).

Check out Big A$$ Fan$! Emphasis on $ but some very cool products

Yeah. I know about them. I've also had quotes from Ginormous fans and a few other HVLS companies. I honestly can't find a way to justify spending that much coin on a ceiling fan.
 

Baclay9

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Central Oklahoma
Great thread, I was originally go for the one the OP put up. I think I will go for the HD fans now though. I have the same size shop. I think I will do 2 of them
 

Charles (in GA)

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Same fan and controller I have in my garage, I love it. Reversible too!

--Joe

Well, sorta. Not sure why anyone would bother to reverse a ceiling fan in a shop, and given the hassle of reversing these, it isn't worth the effort. Just use it to push the air down, thats what you want to do. I guess given a flat uninterrupted ceiling and walls, blowing up might be OK, otherwise I personally don't think so.

For those that are curious. The method of reversing involves getting up to the fan, loosening the set screw that holds the bell (at the bell to downrod juncture) that covers the top of the fan motor, and sliding the bell cover up the downrod. Under that, you will find a slide switch. You slide it to the other position, put the bell cover back and tighten the set screw, and then turn the fans back on.

The blades are a hard plastic and hold up well in the very high summer heat, humidity, etc. They move almost 10,000 CFM on high.

attachment.php
 
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Baclay9

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Well, sorta. Not sure why anyone would bother to reverse a ceiling fan in a shop, and given the hassle of reversing these, it isn't worth the effort. Just use it to push the air down, thats what you want to do. I guess given a flat uninterrupted ceiling and walls, blowing up might be OK, otherwise I personally don't think so.

For those that are curious. The method of reversing involves getting up to the fan, loosening the set screw that holds the bell (at the bell to downrod juncture) that covers the top of the fan motor, and sliding the bell cover up the downrod. Under that, you will find a slide switch. You slide it to the other position, put the bell cover back and tighten the set screw, and then turn the fans back on.

The blades are a hard plastic and hold up well in the very high summer heat, humidity, etc. They move almost 10,000 CFM on high.


attachment.php

Did you have to extend the factory wiring coming out of the fans when you made the longer downrods?
 

Charles (in GA)

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Did you have to extend the factory wiring coming out of the fans when you made the longer downrods?

The downrods are 4 ft pieces of USA made ¾ galvanized water pipe. The wire on the fans is only long enough for the 18 inch downrod they provide, plus additional to reach into the box. I had to run the THHN box wire down the downrod and wire nutted it to the fan wire under the bell on top of the motor.

Current specs on HD website say 54 inch leads, this may be an improvement over the ones I bought several years ago. Mine were not long enough to reach.

I keep a permanent thread in the Test Forum to hold odd pics that I have linked to in PM discussions with members. If you go to that thread

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23392

You can look at more of the fan install pics in post #1.

Charles
 
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Charles (in GA)

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50 mi south of Atlanta
Do you know if they come in a steel finish or even black? White feels like just one more thing to clean...

Thanks!

T2

Black

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-...ling-Fan-26629/202670138?N=5yc1vZbvlqZ1z13nwj

*****

White

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-...ling-Fan-52860/204507386?N=5yc1vZbvlqZ1z13nwj

*****

They also have 56 inch Westinghouse industrial fans in several colors. Just go to the HD web site, select ceiling fans > shop by style > Industrial.
 

soapii

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SE Michigan
Not sure why anyone would bother to reverse a ceiling fan in a shop, and given the hassle of reversing these, it isn't worth the effort.

To me it is worth the 30 second effort. I do not like a cool breeze on me while I'm working in the garage in the winter, so I only have it push the air down in the summer when I want to stay cool.

As for mixing up the air in my shop, it doesn't matter if you push the air down or pull the air up....both serve the same purpose.

--Joe
 

jvitez

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Big Sky Country, Canada
I read somewhere, perhaps even here, than in winter you want a fan pushing air up, assuming you're using a forced air unit heater.

Hot air rises, so heat stratification means the hottest air is farther away from the cold garage floor. Blowing the hot air up means it will travel across the ceiling and down the walls onto the floor, then back up in the flowing air stream again, ie eliminating air stratification. Moving air feels colder, so in winter this does sound a good idea.
 

Charles (in GA)

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I just want that warm air up at the roof to be pushed directly to the floor where it can do some good, not circulated all around the roof and walls of the building where it has a chance to lose some of the heat. I'm just looking at maximum efficiency.

Every building is different and may respond differently to different air flows.

Charles
 
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