Ceiling heater condensate drain

[smalltown]

Been working to get a Sterling propane ceiling heater hung, and vented properly. I have already purchased, and installed most of the Duravent fasNseal CAT III pipe and parts.

Today after talking with the Duravent tech. group they confirmed my opinion that the way this pipe, and parts are constructed the piping should be installed with the normal 1/4" slope rising up from the heater toward the outside. I am supposed to have a condensate drain next to the heater. They appear to be plastic tubing with one loop to form a crude trap.

I can easily buy an appliance adapter with a condensate drain port on the bottom, but what do I do with the drain tube?
I have been searching high and low for pictures of what others have done with their drain on the inside of the garage without luck.

I have no idea how much condensate we are talking about, but I do not have a drain in my garage near the heater. I was hoping people would say there isn't much condensation, and simply install a small plastic "jug" on the back of the heater or nearby wall 3.5 " away to catch any condensate. Anybody got any pictures?????.

I realize that there are differences of opinion of up slope verse down slope, (read most of them while searching), but in this instance it has to be up slope from the heater. Do to the pipe construction with built in seals the acidic condensation would pool, and while not affecting the CAT III pipe, it would have a negative affect on the seals.

I think I must have been born with the "do it the hard way gene "

 

[Muzzy]

Have you considered drilling a hole in the wall and running the condensate drain tube outside? It would probably be worth it to heat trace and insulate the line to keep it from freezing and backing up.

In all honesty, given that its already getting cold, I would probably just run it to a five gallon pail and see how much you get, and only come up with a better solution if it proves to be a problem.

 

[98ssuck]

The condensate is slightly acidic. So make sure your condensate piping is plastic. You do not want a in direct connection between your Condesnate trap on the unit and the drainage system. I would highly recommend a neutralization unit to neutralize the acid.

To plumb the drain properly you will require two pee traps with a air break between them when plumbing the condensate into the drainage. The first on is the unit to stop exhaust gases from escaping from the venting. The second is on your drainage system to stop sewer gases from coming out the drainage piping.

If you show a picture of your installation I can draw a picture to help you visualize a solution.

 

[Jackfre]

"Slightly acidic" Ph will be about 3.2, which is pretty hot. It will do a number on concrete.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

The condensate is slightly acidic. So make sure your condensate piping is plastic. You do not want a in direct connection between your Condesnate trap on the unit and the drainage system. I would highly recommend a neutralization unit to neutralize the acid.

To plumb the drain properly you will require two pee traps with a air break between them when plumbing the condensate into the drainage. The first on is the unit to stop exhaust gases from escaping from the venting. The second is on your drainage system to stop sewer gases from coming out the drainage piping.

If you show a picture of your installation I can draw a picture to help you visualize a solution.

Not only is the neutralization unit a good idea, it's code...

Tommy

 

[smalltown]

Good suggestions please keep them coming. Not much to take a picture of as I was so close to hanging the unit, but delayed when I got the drain information today.

Muzzy's I like your suggestion. I think I'll try by coming out of the drain port with tubing, and the coiled tube to make the trap then slide that into some small 1/2 pvc pipe. It's 3.3' to the rear wall and down the inside wall keeping it warm. The five gallon bucket does sound like a good temporary solution to check for volume. Later I could drill a hole just above the sill and pipe it outside. I wonder if this condensate is so problematic for concrete what's happening to the concrete foundation/slabs under all the exhaust pipes that drip condensate outside next to foundations?

I haven't seen any posts where someone said there is a lot of condensate dripping out of my exhaust onto the ground. So tonight we need a few hearty volunteers to sit outside and watch just how much your exhaust drips.

LS6 Tommy I'll have to check out what a neutralization unit is.

 

[brewchief]

I suspect you could pipe it to a quart jar and not fill it all winter unless the vent is extremely long and running through an unheated space. If you try to keep the room just above freezing and have short run times you may make some amount of condensate but it still isn't going to be anything like a condensing furnace.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[dreasoner]

A neutralization unit sold as an accessory by one well known OEM is simply a piece of PVC drain pipe capped at both ends. The caps are drilled and tapped for hose barbs and the pipe is filled with limestone gravel. The condensate is piped thru the "neutralizer".

 

[BillChoneser]

Why isn’t venting it horizontally with a 1/4” downward slope an option?

 

[smalltown]

BillC the way this particular pipe was manufactured as the pipe works its way toward the outside you are left with a female end. So if I slope it downward from the heater it runs into ridges. If it is sloped back towards the heater there are no obstructions, and no pooling of condensate around those areas.
One thing I do like about this pipe is that it can be pulled apart at any time for inspection if needed, and seals can be replaced, and then simply reassembled. No tape or high temp silicone on the joints.

 

[bd8134]

Why isn’t venting it horizontally with a 1/4” downward slope an option?

I think you need to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the heater on whether the vent slopes upwards or downwards, not the pipe manufacturer.
My Sterling heater said for a horizontal vent, to slope it downwards.
If your instructions say downwards then maybe you will have to use a different manufacturers pipes or if possible, cut the end pipe you have to change its connections to be male/female style you want.
These guys sell the drip connection, maybe best to exit it the outside..
http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/heater-pipe2.shtml