Ceiling height - what can I do with...

[cdottrot]

Hello GJers!

So it has been decided, we are tearing down the old garage and rebuilding anew in the spring.

It currently has 8'4" ceilings, but I find these are a bit tight when moving 8' 2x4's around. I was thinking of going with 9' and calling it a day, but I do have the option of going up to 11' or so.

I was planning to get a lift, but then I saw the measurements of a lift, and 18w x 24d won't really cut it. Knowing that I'm not planning on a lift, is the extra ceiling height really necessary? Will I find it useless? Will I regret not getting as much ceiling height as possible?

For reference, I'm pretty sure both the man-door (36") and the garage door (7x9) will be on the front aka driveway (18ft wide) side of the garage.

This is probably the only time for the next 20 years I'll be able to build a garage from scratch, so I really want to do this right!!

Options I have considered:
- A mezzanine above the garage door area.
- Lower ceiling but more attic space.
- Small office nook on mezzanine above garage area (but this brings HVAC into the mix).

As always, I am most grateful for input/suggestions/criticism (ok maybe not so much the last one )

 

[trbomax]

Cieling hight is good.maybe a crane or I beam trolly? One thing to keep in mind though,the cieling sometimes does you no good w/o a door to match. get the highest door you can.

 

[e-tek]

You'll never "regret" an 11 foot ceiling - though without a lift you may not use it/need it much. Mine is 11' and if it wasn't for the lift, 9 foot would suffice. Ever planning on putting a camper in there? One thing for sure - to get the most use of a high ceiling, go with side crank door openers, not centre pulls. Other uses for higher celings: storage around perimeter, tall shelving....hmmm...that's all I can come up with!! Good luck!

 

[cdottrot]

e-tek, I am definitely saving up for a Liftmaster 3800, costs more than a normal one, but definitely helps with the space usage.

trbomax, I had forgotten to mention the I-beam crane idea - something I have considered and left out, as it's a cost that probably will only be used once or twice, and could probably be retro-fitted later on without a huge amount of hassle.

I hadn't even thought about getting a higher door, I shall check into that, thanks.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I don't know about a two post lift, but a four post lift would fit in there just fine. If you have the option of a 11 foot ceiling, I'd say go for it, but make sure the overall height of the garage will be okay with any local zoning rules you may have.

 

[Ray-CA]

I'm in the planning stages as well and I've decided that I am going to build the walls on top of at lease a coarse of block, if not two. That way, I can get the extra height, but won't have to pay for extra long 2x4 studs or extra framing. Yes, I know that the masons will cost, but it can't be much for a couple of rows of block. Or, I might just do it myself.

Ray

 

[Dragster Racer]

There are pros and cons of taller ceilings.
On the plus side, you can do more storage if you are creative. If you run a car for a short period, you don't get fumed up as quick. Light is easier to difuse. I can get the motorhome in side and the enclosed trailer. And of course the lift.
On the minus, I have to run the fans pretty much all winter with my 15' ceilings. You also have extra wall for more potential heat loss.

 

[dodgeram2500]

Could also get scissor trusses for extra height in the middle...being 18' wide you'll probably only gain a foot or two though...

 

[trbomax]

Highest cieling and highest door,you will never regret it.Whatever fixtures or fans you mount to the cieling,make absolutely sure that they are HIGHER than the top of the door opening..that way , if it fits thru the door,it fits anywhere in the shop.

 

[cdottrot]

I checked into the taller door, and at retail prices the difference between 7x9 and 8x9 is about $450. A lot, but could be worth it.

The stem wall I'll ask them to make 12" instead of 8", so by using 10' 2x4s I'll get 11' and change ceilings.

Haha, a four post will cause even more problems than a two post - the 'size' issue is not height, but footprint. To get it fitted in, it'll have to be about 16-24" from the wall on one side, meaning it'll take up about 2/3 of the floor space with a car on it. Normally I would have the car under the door area, but cannot do that with the lift. 18x24 sounds decent, but it's still just a glorified 1.5 car garage.

I think I'm really not using the garage enough to ever justify a lift. My only long-term car plans are to build a car (how to build a car for 250 pounds) aka Lotus7, and that would most definitely not require a lift, but a good welding table. I think I'll reserve the floor space for that.

I'm going to apply for a variance to go beyond the local 14'6" max height for maybe 16 or 18' - I will see what they'll give me. 14'6" is ok, but to get 11' ceilings means almost a flat roof - just under 1/3 pitch. 1/3 is minimum by code.

 

[srmofo]

Ive got 10' ceilings with 9' doors. The material works out nice at 10' with very little waste. The 10' 2x4s had 4.5" cut off (for top and bottom plate)to have the final size of the wall at 10'. If you dont cut them down you will probably have lots of waste just to gain 4.5" of ceiling and wall height that you may or may not use.

Even though I dont have a lift at this time I love the extra height. Whatever you choose just make sure its at least 10'. The price difference from 9' to 10' is next to nothing. the garage door is really the only additional expense.

And get a liftmaster 3800 to utilize all that extra ceiling space.

I had one of the 3 wheel skid steers (whatever they're called)that ride around on the back of tractor trailers in my garage last week. He was dropping off all the supplies for my fence. That right there is worth the 9' doors/10'ceiling

 

[cdottrot]

Good news - found out today that I have an easy way around the height issue. We were already planning some pergola-like structure, and now if we turn that into a breezeway, the garage becomes 'attached'. This solves the height problem (cannot be taller than the house) and the sq.ft. problem ('house' can't be more than 40% of total property sq.ft.). It only brings one issue in - the offset from the property line must now be 4', not 2'.

At any rate, we're now good to go with 11' ceilings. Sweet!

When I get my sketchup drawings a little more complete, I'll create a post in the garage gallery for the work log.

Thanks for the input everyone!

 

[Keep]

There is a guy up around the corner from me on Stevenson that built himself a boat house two years ago, backs right up to the property line and is probably 18 ft high, and not attached to his house.

Maybe go knock on his door and ask how he did it

 

[scuba0459]

my current garage has 9' walls and I really liked that you could handle a 4x8 sheet without hitting the ceiling. So the new workshop has 10' walls and a 9' high door. I can back my cargo trailer (8' high) into the garage to load and unload stuff. The difference is cost between 9 and 10' was minimal in comparison to the total project cost.

If I could do this again I will go higher and use scissor trusses to open it up even more. I never thought I would want a lift but I am starting to change my mind.

Albert

 

[Hank McMauser]

for 10 ft wall heights you can buy/order 116-5/8" studs. I would think it'd be much cheaper to go with a longer stud than adding an extra row of blocks. it would also be more difficult to conceal the taller concrete with siding(much easier to attach it to wood than cement blocks)

 

[z28toz06]

use the precut 2x4x10', it takes the cutting out of the equation. 11' walls will mes you up when finishing it off, plus you will need all 12' 2x4's. with 10' height you will be able to cut most wall board in half and finish the walls. with 11' you will have either a lot more taping and joining or a lot more waste material.

I wish I had the garage door installer make the 8'x10' doors hug the ceiling.

 

[cdottrot]

That's a good point about the drywalling. I will be using 2x6 construction, not 2x4, but the principle still applies.

However, aren't you supposed to run the drywall horizontal to the studs?

Also, the 11' height is made up of 12" (hopefully) of stem wall and 10' of stud/sill&top plates. So the drywallable height is 10'. The stem wall will be poured, I believe, but I have to check on that. Either way, it'll be a minimum of 8" of concrete from the floor.

I had thought I would go with scissor trusses...but now I'm not sure. I would think the lighting would be more uniform on a flat ceiling vs. scissor.

 

[purpony]

when i built my tractor shed (16X20) i went with an 11ft ceiling. I then build a 16x4 ft loft in the back and a 20x4 loft along one side.... This way i have LOTS of storage in a small footprint. I also have a walk in attic.......
With the tall ceiling it also allows me to hang the bikes and still clean them with my tractor roll bar.

 

[z28toz06]

That's a good point about the drywalling. I will be using 2x6 construction, not 2x4, but the principle still applies.

However, aren't you supposed to run the drywall horizontal to the studs?

Also, the 11' height is made up of 12" (hopefully) of stem wall and 10' of stud/sill&top plates. So the drywallable height is 10'. The stem wall will be poured, I believe, but I have to check on that. Either way, it'll be a minimum of 8" of concrete from the floor.

I had thought I would go with scissor trusses...but now I'm not sure. I would think the lighting would be more uniform on a flat ceiling vs. scissor.

yes, drywall is run horizontally, so at 10 feet even you will need 2 and 1/2 sheets. at 11 feet you will need 2 and 3/4 sheets. If the bottom 12" is cinderblock and you will do ten foot walls on top of the kneewall, you'll be fine. Technically, you can't have too much height, just keep in mind you have to paint it, maintain and heat and cool it.

 

[cdottrot]

Gotcha. Ok, I'll be aiming for 10' from sill to top plate. Yay math, eh?

I will not actually be cooling this garage (beyond windows), and heat will come from a 220v electric heater, when I need it.

Actually...now that I think about it...what if I turn the garage into something used on a daily basis down the line...shoot. Guess I'm off to the GJ/heating forum!!!

Thank you very much for clarifying the practical nature of the drywall.