Ceiling ideas/suggestions (cheap preferred)

[raley]

Well, first off, I'm not exactly sure where to post this, it's kind of heating (since its for insulation) but also a little general since its about a ceiling.

Well, the current (I'm bad with terms) truss' are spaced 48" centers. they are 2x8s bolted together in the middle. The garage is 22' wide by 24' deep, with the truss' going the 24' span.

Now, my question is, what do i do for a ceiling? I would rather not go and get a million 2x8s to build a truss at every 16" because of the cost and having to do it on ladders and boards are expensive. But adding a few wouldn't be a big deal. So I beleive that drywall is out (if im not mistaken).

I saw someone on the board with metal siding for a ceiling, But don't know if I would have to add boards to do this, and it seems a little on the expensive side. (a 3'x10' peice is about $50, totaling 700 bucks just in siding.)

So, to sum it all up, what should I look into for a ceiling?! I'm in west michigan, so its about to get very cold. And I want insulation.

Thanks, Raley


And on with the pictures, since everyone loves those the most. Since the pictures I added a ridge vent (no ventilation was in the garage when I bought the house in January)

 

[raley]

I just was out measuring stuff and the truss' didn't look 2x8, i was mistaken, they are 2x6.

 

[brucer]

holy huge pictures batman

 

[raley]

Yeah, from my phone its hard to resize pictures.

 

[raley]

 

[Fastback]

I did the math, the thinner metal barn side that is made for interior use only from Menards is cheaper than sheet rock per SF. I think it ended up being cheaper than the foil backed insulation board!

Just get some 1x4 or 2x4 and make some stringers, insulate and then hang the metal, it does not weigh as much as the sheetrock or wood.

 

[raley]

ok, I only looked at lowes and they only had the thick stuff. The company I work for makes park structures and I *THINK* I can get some super thin stuff through work.

Thanks a lot for the info, any idea what gauge it was?

 

[Fastback]

No, I can't remember but just call a menards and tell themnyou want the basic white interior barn metal and get a quote. I ordered mine at 12' long since my interior is just under 24' wide, this gave me a few inches of overlap in the center.

 

[raley]

Ill stop in tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Kinger]

Aren't hip roofs typically unvented? Couldn't you just insulate the joist spaces and install a covering that would keep the ceiling open?

If you insulated the underside of the roof and sheeted it, it would save a ton of work trying to frame in a ceiling.

 

[raley]

the ridge is vented.

 

[jsmith6752]

I did not know that material was in existence.....thanks

 

[samert111]

Like others have said you can run some 2x4 stringers 24" OC perp to your truss cords and hang the interior panels on them. Menards has the 10 footers for $26 but I think that is the regular siding pricing. The lighter weight panels I ordered from Menards was called Dura Panel I think. They have sales on them quite often. I ordered mine at 10'-1" so they overlapped some. Even then some just barely did due to variation in my truss spacing so I would have them cut 2" longer than the length you decide on. 10 footers I could handle myself on some scaffolding and outriggers I made up from 1" electrical conduit bent at a 90 degree and slid down in the scaffoldings vertical pipes.

Attached are some photos of the ceiling being hung and the finished product.

I'm in W. Mi also (Rockford) if you want to stop by to take a look at it.

 

[raley]

Well, I ran by menards tonight and its on sale right now for 18 (in 8 foot lengths) or 26 (in 12 foot lengths) so the difference is price is 8 cents. I think i will be going with a 8 footers just for ease of install. Tomorrow I will be seeing at work what I can get it for at the company discount. hopefully cheaper. About 500 just in steel is kinda high for a 2 stall garage. But if thats the cheapest I can get, thats what I'll do. Id rather have the 29ga stuff since I think it looks better than drywall. Thats galvanized (or galvalume) and not painted, its about a dollar more per sheet for white. I haven't decided which one id prefer.

samert, What did you use around the edges, I can't tell if you put up j-channel or not. Also, thanks for the offer but I think I have a pretty good grasp on how to do it.

 

[samert111]

samert, What did you use around the edges, I can't tell if you put up j-channel or not. Also, thanks for the offer but I think I have a pretty good grasp on how to do it.

raley, I used J channel. It makes for a clean looking installation.

Be careful with the standard panel lengths and plan your stringer layout accordingly. Your going to want at least a 1" overlap.

 

[raley]

My span will be 23 foot so i dont have to slit a panal in half, the other direction is 24' so ill have to cut on the rib on both ends.

 

[samert111]

My span will be 23 foot so i dont have to slit a panal in half, the other direction is 24' so ill have to cut on the rib on both ends.

Lengthwise is much better. I had to make all kinds of cuts for light fixture boxes, cross ways for the vertical drop on the new addition in the back and the length of 4 panels for the final pc's on the building width.

I found the best way to cut this stuff was with the red handled Weiss snips. I'm left handed so they just fit me better. They are designed to cut counter clockwise. Green handled is for clockwise. I tried the abrasive cut off wheels in the skill saw but it just burned the material and threw sparks all over the place. The backwards carbide tip blade in the skill saw made ALOT of noise and threw hot chips all over the place. The Weiss snips just let me take my time and the material is really light weight so it flexes out of the way easily. I also tried the yellow handled straight cut Weiss snips but they didn't work as well as the red handled ones. The snips just make a nice clean cut. With any saw type method they recommend to paint the cut edge to keep it from rusting but I think that is more for exterior applications. The snips actually pinch the material so no painting necessary.

For the light fixture boxes I measure and moved them first so they would fall in the flats between the ribs. Tried measuring location and cutting hole in the panel before hanging and could never get it right. Ended up measuring general location of the box from reference points and loosely hung the panel around the hole location and drilled a 1/2 hole where the box was and used the Weiss snips to cut the hole. Much cleaner and precise cut.

If you don't have some scaffolding available, I suggest you rent some for the weekend. It makes the job of hanging this stuff alot easier and you could probably go with longer panels to, especially if you have a helper.

Good luck.

 

[raley]

Thanks, i'll get some pics of the progress this weekend (if i can get somebody to come over and give me a hand) Hopefully I can get started this weekend, depending on how good of a deal i can get on the panels from work. we only use 26ga and its cheaper than menards 29 ga, so hopefully i can get 29ga through work for really cheap.

 

[00si2]

Not trying to get the thread off topic but for you guys that have used metal on the ceiling what are you thoughts on noise vs using drywall?

My garage is under a living space (with insulation between) and i am debating using metal.

 

[samert111]

Not trying to get the thread off topic but for you guys that have used metal on the ceiling what are you thoughts on noise vs using drywall?

My garage is under a living space (with insulation between) and i am debating using metal.

Sorry, can't really say since I've never had drywall on the ceiling. I can tell you my pole barn is much quieter inside now with it all insulated and the OSB up on the walls. Feels and sounds like a much more solid building when I close the doors.

 

[raley]

For different spaces i can say metal is a slight bit louder inside but it doesnt really radiate out if its insulated/seamed well.

 

[Dave28]

samert111,

Thanks for posting the pictures and info on your ceiling. I had never even thought of using metal siding for a ceiling but after seeing how yours looks I am now considering it. I had originally planned on doing a suspended ceiling but now I can see a metal ceiling is in the near future.

Dave

 

[samert111]

samert111,

Thanks for posting the pictures and info on your ceiling. I had never even thought of using metal siding for a ceiling but after seeing how yours looks I am now considering it. I had originally planned on doing a suspended ceiling but now I can see a metal ceiling is in the near future.

Dave

Dave,
Just to clarify, this material is actually a bit lighter @ 29 gauge vs. the 26 gauge that is typically used for exterior siding. You could use the heavier material but it's probably a bit more expensive.

 

[raley]

26 or 28 is for roofing 29 for siding.

 

[samert111]

26 or 28 is for roofing 29 for siding.

Hmmmm.... this stuff really feels lighter than my siding material. I had to trim some of my siding panels when I put in a larger overhead door and cutting it with the snips was a little tougher I thought.

 

[samert111]

OK, here is the material I used from Menards. It's actually lighter than the 29 ga panels. It's .0014" thinner. Not sure what gauge that makes it.

http://menards.com/main/building-materials/post-frame-materials/panels/durapanel/p-1699441-c-5717.htm

 

[raley]

oh, in store I only saw 29ga siding...

http://menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/steel/8-l-prorib/p-1699405-c-5837.htm

the dura panels are 31-32 ga... hard to say since gauge doesn't actually go down that far for galvanized steel sheet. I didn't even see that stuff when I was there, probably much cheaper. My purchusing person wasn't at work today so I couldn't get a quote, but I know it will be cheaper, I dunno about the waiting, we'll see how much cheaper.

 

[samert111]

oh, in store I only saw 29ga siding...

Yes, this product is special order only in the length you want it cut to. Takes about a week to come in if I remember correctly. It's sold by the 100 sq feet. I paid $49.99 / 100 SF or $0.50 per SF where the regular siding is closer to $0.86 / SF.

The J channel only comes in 10' lengths and was $4.23 each and don't forget the color matched screws. It adds up quick.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Yes, this product is special order only in the length you want it cut to. Takes about a week to come in if I remember correctly. It's sold by the 100 sq feet. I paid $49.99 / 100 SF or $0.50 per SF where the regular siding is closer to $0.86 / SF.

The J channel only comes in 10' lengths and was $4.23 each and don't forget the color matched screws. It adds up quick.

Are you guys using vinyl J channel, or another material?

 

[raley]

I was planning to use the metal stuff...

yeah, the screws are gunna be the most expensive thing im guessing, atleast I wont need the fancy tek screws with washers, those are like 3 times the price...

 

[samert111]

Are you guys using vinyl J channel, or another material?

I used the metal "J" channel.

 

[brucer]

wouldnt drywall or osb add to the insulation value a little more than metal would?

 

[raley]

Yes, but from my understanding, 5/8" more insulation would be better, does look as go, imo. Also is MUCH heavier.

 

[Dave28]

Samert111,

Thanks for the information. As soon as I get the heated slab done this will be my next project.

 

[raley]

well, got about half of it done today... I'll be putting pop rivets at the panel ends... just to make sure its all tight together.

 

[brucer]

well, got about half of it done today... I'll be putting pop rivets at the panel ends... just to make sure its all tight together.

going to look nice..