Ceiling in garage with tall doors?

[killerbee812]

I just bought a new place and it has a 30x120 pole building. I have been working all year on finishing off a 30x40 workshop. My plan is to install steel ceiling and walls, but have run into an issue. My ceiling is 10’ tall and the door I believe are 9’, so the door hardware extends into the trusses. As you can see from the pictures who ever built this building notched the trusses to fit the doors. I have been searching all over the interweb but cannot find any ideas on how to install a ceiling in this area since I will be putting ceiling on the truss. I am thinking I will have to frame this in somehow but would like some advice and pictures on what others have done.
Thank you

 

[gnpenning]

Just box in the spring shaft and drum. You can start with running a 2x between the joist above the header and in far enough so the drum will clear. Then add a top piece which can be at a 90. The rest the sheeting or drywall can tie in with the boxes. It can just follow the notch that the builder cut.

 

[stngfever]

It should've been ordered with low headroom kit. I'd be concerned with the now comprised truss.

 

[thewatusi]

Wow, don't let a building inspector see that notched truss. He'd **** himself.

 

[upndown]

Just remember if you box in that torsion assembly, at some point you will be tearing it out(broken spring)!

Normally I would cut the the bottom of the vertical tracks. Lower the track and spring assy. then refasten. Unfortunately we have no idea how much wood has been notched, what radius track was used etc. not enough info.

I learned early on that you Never Ever notch wood to install a door! It either fits or it don't. If it doesn't you adjust to make it work. Good luck!

 

[gnpenning]

I should have mentioned if you do box, if the springs ever have to be wound or unwound you will need to a false panel you can remove to do it. As far as removing springs once they are unwound removing the center bracket and outer bearing plates it should come right out.

Anytime you cut off the bottom of the tracks it moves the door up the radius. This makes placement of upper roller brackets critical. Other wise door will not set tight against framing or top of door will hit the bottom of the drums.

Like mentioned it would be helpfull to know which radius of track was used. It looks like a 15"??? If that is the case you can just buy 12" horizontial track and that would lower the spring 3". Don't know if that would be enough. If it is sister 2xs to the bottom of the truss cord.

The 12" radius with the top roller bracket set correct will not do as stated above due to the difference in radius.

The correct door and track should have been installed at the beginning. Doors sections come in 18",21" and 24" hieghts. So door height can be adjusted in 3" increments. Example 8', 7'9",7'6", etc.

 

[mizzoutrover]

The top cord of roof framing transfers the weight of the roof to the outside walls. The bottom cord of the ceiling truss is in tension and is designed to hold the wall together. With that in mind I would not be overly concerned about the notch, before I installed the ceiling I would sandwich plywood gusset between the bottom and top cords to reinforce the area. I believe this would make up for the small notched area.

As far at the garage door, you can just build a box around the entire door and track so the door disappears into the ceiling when it goes up. As someone suggested, you should build a removable panel so the spring can be service as it is sure to fail eventually. I believe someone he on GJ framed around their garage doors, I am considering doing it in my shop. If you will be blowing in attic insulation you will want to make sure to seal off the attic area from the garage door cavity.