SKINNER
Well-known member
What R-value should I use on the ceiling of my garage? I am located in Southern Indiana and plan on installing R13 in the walls....R30 is really pricey...any suggestions?
Ceiling Insulation,
- Thread starter SKINNER
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jerry j
Well-known member
SKINNER said:
Skinner; "R-30 is pricey" So is the fuel to heat our spaces..
I've been an insulation contractor for 30 years..
What I would do is: install R-19 batts and then blow 8" Cellulose (R-30)
over the batts. This will give you a total R-Value of 49.. This will also seal anywhere that heat could escape with just batts only...I know it sounds like overkill but fuel prices are not going to go down any significant amount, and this is one job that you don't want to do over again... If you heat on a regular basis you should save enough to pay for the extra insulation in a very short amount of time..
boiler7904
Well-known member
Like Jerry said, insulation is cheap compared to heating bills. It's only a matter of time until natural gas, propane, and heating oil costs go back up. I'd rather spend the money investing in my property than giving it to the utility company.
Extra insulation could also be considered a selling point in the future if you decide to sell the property.
My local Lowes and Home Depot stores keep advertising the Energy Star tax credit that you can claim on energy efficient home improvements (like insulation) for your 2006 and 2007 federal income taxes. I'm not exactly sure how it works but it's something else to consider.
Extra insulation could also be considered a selling point in the future if you decide to sell the property.
My local Lowes and Home Depot stores keep advertising the Energy Star tax credit that you can claim on energy efficient home improvements (like insulation) for your 2006 and 2007 federal income taxes. I'm not exactly sure how it works but it's something else to consider.
Bill K
Well-known member
One more thing to add is that most big stores will supply the blow machine for free when you buy x amount of insulation
jerry j
Well-known member
SKINNER said:
Skinner;
Whoops..... Now everything changes.... Your Limited.....
Everything depends on the size of the truss material.. 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc.
You are limited to the amount of space.. Also there should (must) be some sort of air space, after insulation is installed, from the underside of the roof to the insulation, to remove any moisture on the underside of the roof..
If you want, you can call me tomorrow as I'm leaving shortly.....
How about spraying polyurethane insulation directly on the underside fo the roof sheating? I've been looking into this on my building and it seems to have alot of benefits, especially for a vaulted ceiling. From what I have read or been told recently applying the polyurethane can drastically increase the life of the shingles and the sheating itself. I'm still struggling with the cost of this stuff, but the more I learn, the more I like it.
May be something to look into.
Dave
May be something to look into.
Dave
Itzkwik
Well-known member
What is the benefit of using batts then blown in Cellulose vs. just using the blown in, assuming you ended up with the same R value?jerry j said:
Special55
Well-known member
Like Jerry said, make sure you have an air space running from your soffets to your roof vents. You can get plastic or styrofoam troughs that staple to the underside of your roof sheeting at Lowes/Home Depot. I used these when I built my greatroom addition and they are a no brainer.
If you fail to vent your ceiling the roof life will be reduced significantly.
If you fail to vent your ceiling the roof life will be reduced significantly.
jerry j
Well-known member
Itzkwik said:
PAToyota
Well-known member
Special55 said:
I went another step beyond that. I cut up pieces of 1/2" rigid insulation with the reflective cover, scored along each side so that I could bend over about an inch on either side to form runners, and placed those up against the bottom of the roof sheathing. Provides the ventilation trough, some R-value, and the reflective cover bounces heat back in the summer. I was amazed at how much cooler the second floor was after doing this!
DanC
Well-known member
do you need to staple the styro. troughs between each truss? they only need to extend up above the height of the insul., correct?
Special55
Well-known member
To correctly ventilate the entire roof they must be used between every truss. The goal is to allow air flow from your eve vents to your ridge vent. The troughs should run the entire length from bottom to top.
Thread resurection:
I'm in the same boat, vaulted ceiling that I'd like to put insulation in. Would the rigid foam or something like double-bubble foil insulation stapled to the rafters work best (while leaving ~4" space from the insulation to the roof)?
Foil ~ 9 R-value up
2" rigid foam =10 R-value
I'm in the same boat, vaulted ceiling that I'd like to put insulation in. Would the rigid foam or something like double-bubble foil insulation stapled to the rafters work best (while leaving ~4" space from the insulation to the roof)?
Foil ~ 9 R-value up
2" rigid foam =10 R-value
Special55
Well-known member
If you are going to have an inspection I would be leary of the rigid foam. I remember hearing something about it releasing toxic fumes when exposed to flames. For that reason it probably wouldn't pass code.JMURiz said:
OK, I'll look into radiant heat film about 2" down from the roof then staple some bats of insulation below that. Maybe I'm over-thinking the insulation in there, but hey, might as well make it efficient eh? Probably feel better than my house from 1940 (when I moved in it had about 2" of insulation in the attic, haha).