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DirtRoad

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Joined
Oct 24, 2012
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607
Location
Lowell, Mi
OK that's good. However, looks like you only have R-13 up there now. If you want to blow in some more later for more R-value then you will have to close off the eves with something to keep the blown insulation from falling out into the soffits and also put in the baffles Beter to do it now then have to crawl out there once the ceiling is up to put the baffles and insulation dams in.

Also, you asked about putting up some plastic as a vapor barrier. You already have that with the Kraft facing on your insulation so you don't want to put the plastic up also. Personally, I would not mess with the plastic. Buildings need to breath some and anymore everyone wants to make everything air tight. Use kraft faced insulation and be done with it in my opinion. At some point we have to accept that these are just pole buildings and not a stick built shop.

Thats why i went with r13, its cheaper and since im not living in it its probably going to be fine. If i need more i will blow more in later, with those air vents of course.

Im a little nervous not using a plastic vapor barrier but your probably right, might not need it.
 

samert111

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Feb 28, 2010
Messages
182
Location
Rockford, Mi
Im a little nervous not using a plastic vapor barrier but your probably right, might not need it.

The plastic over the Kraft facing is a double vapor barrier and can create condensation issues between the 2 seperate barriers. Use one or the other but not both. If you want to put the plastic over the paper then you should cut slits in the paper to let any moisture thru it.

If you haven't started insulating your side walls yet, give me a holler. I'll explain what I did to eliminate 99% of the air leaks and drafts the metal siding allows before I framed in and insulated my side walls.
 

lowell66dart

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Oct 3, 2010
Messages
57
Location
South Louisiana
Since the metal covers 3 feet wide, at $2 a linear foot, that works out to 67 cents a square foot, which would work out to $67 a square, wouldn't it?

DO NOT tell my wife about this. I'm always meesing with her about not being able to do math in your head. Now I have to decide how to spend all the money I had budgeted for the ceiling:)
 

NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
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50,862
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Northern Central Ohio
Why was it a mistake? What happened?

I left the primer exposed without painting it, it started to yellow. I was ignortant about it and didn't realize that primer would do that. I'm now going back and repainting a section at a time this winter.

Not trying to hi jack your thread but here is what it looked like. Notice the unpainted corner ?

10292012radiopaint005.jpg



It wasn't a problem using primer or Kilz oil based primer, it was the fact that I didn't top coat it with paint and left the primer exposed.
 
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bleazenb

Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
19
Location
Central Indiana
Ok I have a ceiling question. Attached is a pic of my project, I've have the trusses on 4 foot centers. I'm wanting to use the Menards metal ceiling panel liner. Is 4 foot too much for the metal liner material to span? I am blowing in insulation on top of the ceiling metal when complete, and this will add some extra weight to the ceiling metal also? Any thoughts would be appreciated!! Thanks
 
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DirtRoad

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Oct 24, 2012
Messages
607
Location
Lowell, Mi
I think i have decided on OSB and then prime and paint.

Even with primer and paint its way cheaper than anything else i could do. More labor involved but thats ok, ive got nothing but time, im only 31 lol
 

imnutz

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May 7, 2012
Messages
106
You need to check with the manufacturer - you may need to go with heavier gauge steel siding or roofing instead of liner panel.
 

Highbeam

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Feb 15, 2011
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2,292
Location
Mt Rainier foothills, WA
Lots of people do the OSB and I can appreciate the utility for a wall but a ceiling? You say it saved money but sheetrock costs much less per sheet and you screw both right?
 
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DirtRoad

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Oct 24, 2012
Messages
607
Location
Lowell, Mi
Lots of people do the OSB and I can appreciate the utility for a wall but a ceiling? You say it saved money but sheetrock costs much less per sheet and you screw both right?

Durability is the issue i have with drywall. I only have 10' ceilings so all it takes is to be dinking around with 12'+ lumber or similar material and next thing ya know i have holes in the ceiling.

Already smashed a t8 bulb with a 2x4 so the last thing i need is to be worried about my lights AND my ceiling.
 

trbomax

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Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,556
Location
starvation lake,mi.
Try these guys. They are always less expensive than anyone else. They are amish ,and all the steel and trim is cut and formed by hand. I have built 3 buldings here with their steel and I dont even bother going anywhere else for quotes.They have an interior steel that ia cheaper per running foot. Manton Metal Sales,7812 E. 14 RD,Manton, Mi, 49663. Ph is 231 824 9002. Ask for Conrad or Joshua
 
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