To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Ceiling options

Kismetfarmer

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
11
Location
Southern Maryland
I just picked up a load of white metal roofing panels, $.50/ft custom cut to length. These were factory seconds but you can't tell them from the premium grade.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Rodster....I read through the replies but didn't see what I was looking for. You have trusses @ 24" on center which is standard, BUT.....are your trusses MADE for storage? So you may want to watch how much you put up above. If you are like most, you will have an access door and you aren't venturing too far from the opening to store things.

As far as a ceiling, myself, I have drywall. The guy that finished it, textured it which back at the time I was fine with. Today, I wish it was smooth, but oh well. My garage is going on 15 years old and I have not had a bit of problem with drywall as far as cracking.

A lot of people won't put drywall in a garage because a lot of times the ceiling WILL crack. It's done it on the house garage ceiling. My drywall guy tells me that the reason they crack is for a couple of reasons. One reason and the main reason is that most won't finish the ceiling off if it was contractor drywalled, or if the contractor textured the ceiling, it has not been primed and painted. He tells me that if a ceiling is painted it will not absorb moisture like an unfinished ceiling. ANd if the garage is not heated, you may pull a car in, in the winter, it may have snow and ice that melts off and it creates humidity, which will expand the drywall, then when the moisture is gone it will contract, therefore the seams will split. A good coat of primer and paint will seal the moisture out from getting absorbed.

If I had it to do over again, I would either go with drywall, or I would go with a metal ceiling. I like the looks of the metal ceiling myself. But back when I built my garage, I built it with what I could afford at the time. Plus the fact I was more familiar with drywall than I was with metal. Finding this site changed my mind on the way I would have built it, but unfortunately, I joined this site 5 or 6 years AFTER my garage was built.
 

jonlb

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
128
Location
South Central Kentucky
I opted for the white metal ceiling as well. I paid $1.55 per running foot (3 sq ft) for number 2. I did 1300 sq ft for $940 delivered to my door with J channel and screws. I prefer the look myself, but that's just my opinion.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ZRX1040

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
130
Location
Upper Penninsula, MI
my post from another thread.


Sheeted my ceiling with foil covered styrofaom and blew enough cellulose to cover the rafters and installed a lull down ladder with the foam on the bottom. I store lightweight stuff like lawn furniture and christmas decorations up there. Works great, lightweight and was easy to install with drywall screws and fender washers.

ry%3D400
 
OP
R

rodster_67

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2013
Messages
360
Location
Near Allentown PA
hedhunter9, thanks for the pictures! What a difference that makes. It looks like the panels are heavy or are they just cumbersome? Looks great!:thumbup:

kevin54,

Thanks for the info on drywall. If I put up a ceiling I probably won't use the space for storage as much as I do now, (which leads to ---another--- storage issue. :headscrat

zrx1040,

That's exactly what I originally had in mind! Thanks for the picture.

I'm leaning more toward a metal ceiling now and talked to 84 Lumber about the load on the bottom chord and they mentioned they sell the ceiling material, cut to length as others stated.

Thanks to all for the information! :thumbup:
 

brucer

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2010
Messages
261
I think menards or lowes also sells a thinner gauge metal for interior siding thats a bit cheaper than the outdoor siding.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom