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Ceiling options

Bradbilt

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Mar 8, 2018
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Gilbert PA
The building went up in April, the floor was poured last month.

Now working on the inside...

I found a "system" for the ceiling and the top 8' of the walls.(16' total wall height)

Called Tryply Ceilings.

From their Facbok page...

"What’s a triply ceiling? A poly fabric material supported by polyester banding and painted wood trim. And typically a layer of insulation gets blown on top to keep your building climate controlled. "


It is basically a very tightly woven quality tarp for lack of a better term.

The process of install is attach the "tarp" to the bottom of rafters or truss'
Then 1/2" wide nylon banding that runs perpendicular to the truss' every 12-14"
then put 1-1/2"x 1/2 wood strips down that get stapled to the length of the bottom of the truss.

Then blow in insulation can be blown in on top of it.

I got a quote for my 4800sq/ft building and i thought it was very reasonable
Ceiling material is $3337
R38 insulation in the 2240sq/ft shop + R20 insulation over the 2560sq/ft storage for $2944

Does anyone have any idea if this is a good price? A good product? What it would cost to have it done in tin?


Their claim is a cost saving compared to tin. It absorbs sound apposed to tin reflecting it and echoing in the garage. It is Not fire proof, but neither is the tin(metal gets hot and wood truss catch fire). They did have a customer that had a fire, the fabric melted and the insulation fell down and extinguished the fire



Suggestion, comments concern?


Their FB page. They do not have a web page
https://www.facebook.com/MidAtlanticTriplyCeilings/
 
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Dragfluid

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Sounds like a **** shoot to me. Besides, in your heating zone, you should have more than R38 up there. More like R60, and that stuff may not support it. Plus I don't like the way that it's flammable.
 
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Bradbilt

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Sounds like a **** shoot to me. Besides, in your heating zone, you should have more than R38 up there. More like R60, and that stuff may not support it. Plus I don't like the way that it's flammable.

LOL R60!!!!!!!! Yeah sure. I dont live in the arctic

Also, nobody said it is flammable. Just not Flame retardant

As for its strength. he gave me samples. Two men pulling their hardest will not rip it.
Also he told me a story about a insulation install. The spray guy was WALKING on the fabric, they could see his footprints from underneath and that was on 8' spacing. He didn't rip it or fall thru. Obviously he does not promote walking on it
 
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Bradbilt

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Looks sharp. I wonder how they get it so tight?


I guess the banding get anchored to the walls and they have some tool to pull that tight. As for the fabric, i think they just have guys working and pulling it tight as they staple it up
 
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Dragfluid

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LOL R60!!!!!!!! Yeah sure. I dont live in the arctic

Also, nobody said it is flammable. Just not Flame retardant

As for its strength. he gave me samples. Two men pulling their hardest will not rip it.
Also he told me a story about a insulation install. The spray guy was WALKING on the fabric, they could see his footprints from underneath and that was on 8' spacing. He didn't rip it or fall thru. Obviously he does not promote walking on it

No, you don't live in the Arctic. You also don't live in the tropics. You live in PA, where the MINIMUM R value is R-38. Why would you want the minimum? Don't you want to be comfortable?

You're building something wonderful here. You want to do it right the first time.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Sounds like a **** shoot to me. Besides, in your heating zone, you should have more than R38 up there. More like R60, and that stuff may not support it. Plus I don't like the way that it's flammable.

X2 on the flammability issue. Even if something is rated as flame retardant, it's still flammable. Flame resistant is non flammable.

Tommy
 
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Bradbilt

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No, you don't live in the Arctic. You also don't live in the tropics. You live in PA, where the MINIMUM R value is R-38. Why would you want the minimum? Don't you want to be comfortable?

You're building something wonderful here. You want to do it right the first time.

I dont live in the building. R38 is at least twice what is in my house. As for minimum allowable amount, Code is R24 So I am doing 1.5 times the minimum code
 
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Bradbilt

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X2 on the flammability issue. Even if something is rated as flame retardant, it's still flammable. Flame resistant is non flammable.

Tommy

Nobody said it was flame resistant either. The ONLY thing that is even remotely conducive for a garage ceiling that is flame resistant is sheet rock. And I am not framing out the entire ceiling to hang sheetrock
 

LS6 Tommy

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Nobody said it was flame resistant either. The ONLY thing that is even remotely conducive for a garage ceiling that is flame resistant is sheet rock. And I am not framing out the entire ceiling to hang sheetrock

I think you missed my point. You said "Also, nobody said it is flammable. Just not Flame retardant". I was only clarifying that by definition, not being flame retardant or flame resistant means it IS flammable. :thumbup:

Tommy
 

NUTTSGT

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I can tell from experience which one is going to last longer in a fire if that fabric stuff is polyester. I'll take metal siding all day long over a fabric ceiling.

How's the resistance to UV rays ? How about having them send you a sq ft sample of the stuff ?
 

MushCreek

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My ceilings are 12'. Other than the outside chance of an electrical failure, by the time the flames reach my ceiling, the shop is gone anyway. Still, I'm probably going to go with metal. I prefer to DIY.
 

ddawg16

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Rule of thumb for 'bleeding edge' technology.....don't be one of the first ones to try it.

I can see why it looks attractive....it appears to solve a lot of problems.

I didn't see anything about moisture barriers....resistance to mold?
 
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Bradbilt

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I can tell from experience which one is going to last longer in a fire if that fabric stuff is polyester. I'll take metal siding all day long over a fabric ceiling.

How's the resistance to UV rays ? How about having them send you a sq ft sample of the stuff ?

I have a sample of the stuff that is where I said 2 men cant pull it apart
 
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Bradbilt

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My ceilings are 12'. Other than the outside chance of an electrical failure, by the time the flames reach my ceiling, the shop is gone anyway. Still, I'm probably going to go with metal. I prefer to DIY.

Mine are 16' so I would be in even more trouble
I'm juts trying to weight the advantages of both. I love the idea of the sound absorption, because right now it echoes really bad.

Rule of thumb for 'bleeding edge' technology.....don't be one of the first ones to try it.

Agreed, but it is not new technology. it has been around for 30+ years

I can see why it looks attractive....it appears to solve a lot of problems.

I didn't see anything about moisture barriers....resistance to mold?

Is sheetrock a moisture barrier?
 
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