ceiling or not?

[littleboss]

Still planning on converting my 37x 63 hay barn into a shop. My plan is too make one section (18' wide x 37') have a 14' walls for a motorhome. Then I would like to step it down to 12' for the other 47'x 37" section. This area will be my tools, shop area and have a 2 post lift. I am thinking of putting in an insulated shop curtain between the motorhome section and the shop area. As long as it gets enough heat to stay above freezing I am good
So I am in north Texas and it's hot and humid. Definitely need AC.
So am I better just leaving the ceiling out all of the way and have 3" of spray foam put on the underside of the roof? or go ahead and have a ceiling added? I would need trusses or beams to mount the tin too, then the price of 2300 sq feet of tin. Then I could use blow in cellulose and be way cheaper than the foam. Wonder what the payback period would be on putting a ceiling in it and having less area to heat and cool vs just leaving it open? If I left the ceiling out I could use an infrared tube heater that would send the heat downwards and then mini splits for cooling since cool air drops.

Any thoughts?

 

[Kaizen]

without enclosing it with a ceiling and insulation it will be hard to heat or cool. Just foam adds extra cubic space that would not be used but would **** up the heat and ac.
Metal would be nice but cheaper options like wood or drywall could cut cost down. I'd put the shop area at 13 or 14 feet. Mine is 12 and need to watch the lights when moving lumber or ladders. Also consider foam panel. Haven't priced them out lately but you could design the structure to allow them to be laid on top and add more insualtion if needed.. Then you could add metal later if you wanted. If you have the money do all of this before moving everything in. Also can't you just winterize the RV and put up an insulated permanent wall?

 

[racecougar]

What does the existing roof and framing consist of? Pictures would definitely help here. Is the roof vented? If so, by what means?

 

[75gmck25]

I think you are comparing two relatively high cost options (tin ceiling vs foam on roof).

If you had basic ceiling framing (truss/beam) installed and then used drywall with garage-grade taping quality it would save you quite a bit. The folks installing the framing don't need to be working off a highly engineered design, since its only function is to support itself and the drywall.

 

[BobnCO]

It will be a lot easier (and cheaper) to control the temperatures with the drop ceiling (from experience/commercial contractor).

 

[littleboss]

What does the existing roof and framing consist of? Pictures would definitely help here. Is the roof vented? If so, by what means?

 

[littleboss]

What does the existing roof and framing consist of? Pictures would definitely help here. Is the roof vented? If so, by what means?

Currently the barn has triple doors on each end so I could load and unload hay from either end. Those will be removed and I will have three 12' wide insulated garage doors on the side- basically a bay between the posts in each section. There is no venting in the barn.
I could use the tin from the six doors to wall off the section where the motorhome will set. All it needs to do is be above freezing.
If I don't put a ceiling in it then I think maybe an infrared tube heater for the main source of heat. At least that heat radiates down. I currently have forced air heat in my old shop and my woodworking shop. Both have only 10' side walls but if you get on a ladder it's definitely hotter at the ceiling. So if I used an infrared tube heater for heat, and added a couple of mini splits for air conditioning. I would mount them down low on the back wall. They could also be used as heat in the spring and fall

 

[littleboss]

It will be a lot easier (and cheaper) to control the temperatures with the drop ceiling (from experience/commercial contractor).

Hard to figure how long it would take to pay for the ceiling and supports in the utility bills.

 

[racecougar]

I expect that sprayfoam will be the less expensive path here, as adding proper attic venting to allow for an insulated ceiling, not to mention framing out said ceiling, will be a significant undertaking.

 

[billconner]

It does not look to me like you are removing much volume or reducing the wall area much by lowering ceiling. Spray foam. The only problem is leaving spray foam exposed as it is not flame retardant. If you're not worried about building code or selling I the future, you'll be ok.

 

[CraigStu]

How tall are the existing walls? I am trying to figure out how much volume you would be cutting out of the existing by putting in a ceiling. IE if the existing walls are 16ft and you drop the ceiling to 12ft then you are reducing the volume you need to heat or cool significantly. OTOH, even if you don't drop the volume by much, a ceiling w/ blown in insulation and some good venting of the attic, could reduce the heat from the sun by a bunch.

 

[aggie113]

Two inches of closed cell on my walls/ceiling. Ceiling is 18ft to the rafters. Would have paid for 4 inches if I could have afforded it. One minisplit keeps it comfy if the door stays closed but once you open it and let a hot car in you need more. Spinning up second minisplit installed near the two post bay area so it can dump more cooling in when needed.

 

[dcg9381]

So am I better just leaving the ceiling out all of the way and have 3" of spray foam put on the underside of the roof? or go ahead and have a ceiling added?

Spray foam all the way (I'm in TX). Don't do the "attic" thing - cost is and time to build is going to eat you. Just pull that RV out, cover the floor and they'll spray it in a couple of hours.

Have them cover the steel (not like mine).

 

[Superbowl]

You can always just have a inch of foam sprayed to control air movement and then put batt or blown on top of that.