Ceiling Seams

[Ramper]

I have a chance to buy enough steel for my ceiling at a GREAT price (about 20% of retail). The only issue is the steel is 24 feet long and my shop is 30 feet wide.

Would you install the steel so that there is ONE seam (at 6 feet from one side) or STAGGER the seams?

 

[cowboy73]

I would probably stagger the seams. I think it would look better.

 

[doublearon98]

Definitely stagger the seems

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[Leaflessshadetree]

I'd stagger the seams. I'd also cut some in half, do 12 ft from each side and a 6 ft piece in the center that could be removed for access. Actually if they would cut them to 12 ft pieces I'd do them all that way. I work by myself and 24ft pieces would be difficult to handle.

 

[dfiler2]

Assuming you would splice on a bottom rafter cord and overlap a little it may not work out exactly to cut them at 12 or leave at 24 then cut 6 footers. I would actually prefer to put the splice all in one line, the same as you would do on a roof. I would also pay attention to which way they lap as you may be able to make the seam be pretty unnoticeable.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Assuming you would splice on a bottom rafter cord and overlap a little it may not work out exactly to cut them at 12 or leave at 24 then cut 6 footers. I would actually prefer to put the splice all in one line, the same as you would do on a roof. I would also pay attention to which way they lap as you may be able to make the seam be pretty unnoticeable.

this.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

My vote:

 

[bullnerd]

30 ft wide but how long and which way do the rafters run?

 

[Ramper]

30 ft wide but how long and which way do the rafters run?

40 FT WIDE

The rafters (trusses) run the short way, but there are cross members every 4 feet the other way

So if I ran the steel the long (40') then I would only be able to screws every 8 feet. Running it the short way (30') I have a place to screw every 4 feet. I could/will use joist hangers to make a cross beam wherever they are needed. The two overhead doors are on the long side so I thought it would nice to go that direction

8 inches of rigid foam (EPS) on TOP of the 2x4's (run the short way) and then the plan is to blow cellulose on top of the rigid foam. Prodex on the bottom (so 3.5 inches of dead air space and then the steel. I plan to leave a 2x4 foot (or maybe 4 x 4) in the middle to access the attic. There is a copula so within the access I plan to have an exhaust fan for the summer and a an insulation filler for the winter. This is MN so the winter is more of a concern than the summer.

I want to do this RIGHT once, but $400 for ceiling steel vs $2000 can't be missed.

 

[johnnyradiant]

Stagger the seams else the install will look 20% of well done.

 

[dfiler2]

Stagger the seams and it will look like a patch job, put them all on one end, lapped the right direction and you won't be able to see it unless you get 6' from the wall and look back.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Do you have access to a siding brake ? If you do, you bend up your own J-channel with a deeper edge that might allow you a short bit of overlap, depending how you lay out the sheets.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I also would run with one seam, not staggered. Be sure to chalk a reference line down the center, and measure to it every sheet. It's very easy to go off slightly and then the sheets won't be straight in line.

 

[The Cobbler]

my vote is staggered

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

8 to 2 staggered...hmmm. I think 80% of the people are nuts....

 

[NUTTSGT]

8 to 2 staggered...hmmm. I think 80% of the people are nuts....

I wouldn't stagger it. Just arrange the seams on one side where it is less obvious. Why cut more more sheets than you need to ?
8 to 3.

 

[James-W]

Put one seam down the middle and then put about a 12 inch wide piece that looks like a channel iron (but made with sheet metal) with some canned lights inside. That way you won't see a seam, all you will see is what looks like a row of lights in a long fixture.