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Ceiling Shelving Support Ideas

tigerbalm2424

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Tried to search but such a broad term I couldnt filter through all the threads! :lol_hitti

I am looking to add some shelving (ceiling supported) around the perimeter back wall in my garage. Looking to make a 2x4 rectangles with plywood on top. Attach the back 2x4 plate to the wall but I am looking for ideas on attaching the inside (or front) of the shelves to the ceiling?

I have seen some complete this task with 2x4's through the ceiling, threaded rod, chains, etc. But I have not clearly understood how and where they attached to the shelving and roof trusses.

Any ideas or suggestions would be great! Thanks:thumbup:
 
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shannonw

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I think you're asking for something similar, there's a few threads around on this.

Here's what I did...older pic so everything is shoved up there while i work on the garage. header along the back wall. I spanned 2 rafters in the attic with unistrut for each downrod.

-[]----*---[]-

^ [] there are the rafters, * is the threaded rod. I put a bolt and washer below the strut and above...so the rod spans 2 rafters.

Drilled a hole through the front 2 bys to run the threaded rod through then a washer and nut. I can jump and hang off it no problem. I went around the entire garage perimeter.
 

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tigerbalm2424

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Thanks. Your picture was the one I actually ran across during my search, just wansnt sure how you connected. :thumbup:

So it looks like you went about 4 feet in between each threaded rod support?
 

dittle fart around

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Unistrut is what we used to support cable trays in substations. If you attic is insulated you can find the rafters and bolt the unistrut perpendicular to the rafters then use the spring nuts to run threaded rod to support the front of your racks. You can get unistrut at most electrical supply stores.
 

shannonw

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Hi I went about 5-6 feet, not for any particular reason, just seemed like an ok distance for support and visually. The above the garage door portion is 3 feet deep (about as far as I can reach). The sides are 2 feet deep.

So on a 16 foot run above the garage door there's 2 rods coming down 5 feet apart (2.5 feet from center of the door on each side). The side corners pretty much support the rest...so

[---------*-------*---------]
| |
| |
* *
| |
| |
* *
| |

(hope that comes out ad makes sense, * being the rods)

On the ones coming down the length of the garage I came 6 feet out from the corner, put one , then another 6 feet on down from that.

I lag bolted to the top of the rafters on each end of the superstrut just so it wouldn't move, just a small one with washer on each end to keep it from shifting about.

Having it go through the front 2 bys you can kind of level everything out by tightening the bolt. Then go back later with an angle grinder and cut off the extra under the 2 by.

I have to use a ladder for everything up there, but i have trusses in the attic and it's a pain to get up there. this is for the less frequently accessed stuff that would have been in the attic, it pretty much got all my infrequent stuff off the garage floor!
 

Zeke

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Perforated angle, Unistrut, and even threaded rod can get expensive. You can do all this with vertical 2 x 4's and deck screws.

Now, where the shelving parallels the above framing member can get more difficult no matter what system you decide on. Say your shelves are 24" and the ceiling layout is 16" on center, your uprights fall in the middle somewhere. You might find working with the steel components easier in this situation where you need to place a horizontal member above the proposed vertical attachment point.

But, being a carpenter, I still like the favorable cost and ease of wood/ screws.
 

shannonw

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ok well that diagram didn't come out...move the 2nd vertical line over to the right and that's about how i have the rods laid out.
 

shannonw

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yes the superstrut was the expensive part, that link above was like 15 bucks per strut,You get a few pieces out of 1. The threaded rod was only around 7 bucks, and you'll get several down drops from that. Then you have the bolts, washers.

In all iirc i used 2 struts, and 2 down rods, so around 50 bucks...on the sides next time i'd have probably skipped the 2nd strut the and just used a 2x to span the 2 rafters above. That would have put it at about 35 for that portion. Or you could use pipe to span, really anything would work.

I considered doing it with wood, but i needed the garage cleared quickly and this seemed like a quicker option to get it done that day for a few bucks more. small hole through the ceiling, cut a 2' piece of strut ,lag in, drop rod, done. It went together in no time.
 

icecactus

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While i havent done mine yet, i have been thinking about this same thing for a while. I got 16' high ceilings and want to put a lot of storage about 6' tall and about 30 feet long, and 2 feet deep. This will give me 10 feet underneath the overhead storage. What i am planning on doing is lag bolting to the wall, and for the ceiling, laying 2x6 across multiple rafters and bolting a 2x4 to the 2x6 and coming straight down through the drywall and attach the shevles etc..This way the weight is distributed across the wall and also multiple rafthers.
 

snakedoc257

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I love this shelving idea. I have been drawing plans and thinking of different ways of vertical supports. I like the threaded rod idea best, but don't know how I would make it work with a drop ceiling.

Any ideas? Here are a couple of pictures of my ceiling as it is now.
 

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Steevo

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I love this shelving idea. I have been drawing plans and thinking of different ways of vertical supports. I like the threaded rod idea best, but don't know how I would make it work with a drop ceiling.

Any ideas? Here are a couple of pictures of my ceiling as it is now.

Is that your garage?
WTF?
Can a builder really leave all that ducting hanging open like that?
I'd be pissed.
 

paul cislini

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My first post...hello to all...love the forum.
Just finished my new shop with a 12 foot ceiling. Built a 3 foot x 14 foot shelf 9 feet above the floor. Instead of vertical supports going straight up to the trusses, I angled some hurricane strap from the front edge of the shelf to the top plate at 12 feet.

Had the hurricane strap left over from the construction, but could easily use chain, cable, angle iron, etc.. By pulling at an angle to the top plate, pressure is applied to the 2x6 wall and not the ceiling trusses. Works great for me.
 

snakedoc257

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Yeah unfortunately he can/did. It passes in GA. because he installed a sprinkler system. I am trying to decide on how to finish it. I would like to drywall it, but with all the plumbing up there I'm afraid to. I'm thinking my best route is a drop ceiling. I hope to tackle it in couple of weekends.
 

browntown

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I need another project like a hole in the head, but I've been contemplating something like this for some of my dead space above the garage door openers. Some of my neighbors have lofted their garage and with major beams or steel, have made 4 ft high storage attics for 1 or 2 of the 3 bays in our garages. I'm not that adventurous and might just do some shelving like the OP. Here's all the dead space I'm talking about:

garage 001 (Small).JPG

garage 002 (Small).JPG
 

shannonw

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Yeah i originally wanted to do what regguy did, use some wood for the drops, and enclose it....i looked at his setup many times as well as the others.

i just wasn't quite sure about using strong ties with as few downdrops as I wanted, and I was really needing to shove as much as I could up there, went the strut and rod route as i knew it would be quick and solid, it's also redhead bolted to the block walls for the header. I also wanted to screw or lag into the trusses as few times as possible...this largely avoided that, except i did decide to lag into each end of the strut with a small one, just to keep things from moving. In hindsight it's a bit overkill but solid for sure

I don't think the cost was all too much more..i remember calculating and thinking man for 30-50 bucks more for the struts and rod get this done today...i had 0 room in the garage and was about to go crazy.

I would like to go back later and frame it somewhat like he did, but i doubt i'll ever get to a nice clean garage stage like that =P i'm thinking moving would be easier! Just happy to settle for having **** off the floor.

In hindsight there was 1 thing i didn't consider, if i ever wanted to enclose similar to what others have done, with sliding doors,soffit underneath... i'd have that bolt and washer under the front sticking out....not sure how i'd deal with that, maybe just leave it exposed, recess it a bit or just tack a 1x under the whole thing to clear the bolt, and soffit it.
 

edl

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shannonw (or anyone) - where can you buy those struts that they are using? - and what hardware secures the struts to the C channel? - it looks like there is a C channel under the shelf and the bottom of the strut anchors there? - i think i will try this
 

shannonw

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edl,
i got all my stuff at home depot, superstrut is what it was called there, was just in a rush, if you look in the 2nd or 3rd reply i posted a link on home depot, might be places to get it cheaper.

the threaded rod just goes through holes in the c channel secured with a large washer and nut...just google for superstrut/unistrut and it should be a bit clearer. I secured under and over the channel just so you couldn't push nor pull the rod.

Yes, in that garage loft builders site I also noticed they used c channel under the shelf bottom, probably because they're pretty wide and deep, i skipped that as I wouldn't be standing on it...my sides are around 2 feet deep, back about 3-4. it's overkill just for shelving i think if you use 2bys. If it was very deep or i was planning on having to stand on it, the c channel under the shelf frame probably isn't a bad idea!

i just dropped the rod, marked my 2by on top edge, drilled a hole though, then secured under with a large washer and bolt on the rod.
 
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dittle fart around

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shannonw (or anyone) - where can you buy those struts that they are using? - and what hardware secures the struts to the C channel? - it looks like there is a C channel under the shelf and the bottom of the strut anchors there? - i think i will try this
Electrical strut no matter what the brand name is kinda a commercial product so any electrical supply store will have it. Here's link to the manufacturer.
http://www.unistrut.us/
 

soob

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The plan is to put a shelf in the garage over the door at the front. Like this one:

PC120148.JPG


I only have about 24" above the garage door so it's not going to be that big.

The plan is to make it 4 feet wide and span the length of the garage over the door, i.e., about 4' x 20'. Would be framed with 2x4s and supported by 3/8" threaded rod run down from 2x4s run over the 2x6 joists in the ceiling. Maybe four of them across the front of the shelf. Shelf would be 19/32 OSB.

Anyway, I have no experience with this sort of thing. I mean, I could nail it together obviously but not designing or selecting materials. So I have some pretty basic questions:

1) Is the shelf too big? I chose 4' wide because it reduces waste. But I could make it as narrow as 30" and still get most of the use out of it, since it obviously shouldn't have much weight on it. But that would be nearly all waste. Then again, it would be lighter, which would be more weight I could put on the shelf. Right?

2) The plan was to run the 2x4 joists under the 19/32 osb spaced every 24" -- should this be 16"?

3) I was planning to use 4"-long, 1/4" lag screws to attach the sides and the back to the wall studs. Is that right?
 

shannonw

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Sorry, I missed the update on this thread...

re:

1) Mine over the garage door is 3 feet, that was plenty of room for large bins, yeah there was waste there but that was as far as I could reach kinda safely reach on a ladder (i just climbed a ladder and guessed reaching my arm out). My sides are 2 feet.

At 4 foot if you drop or shove something back there not sure how you'll get to it, some access i guess in the middle like that site. I had looked at that site a pretty good bit as well.

I can tell you I wouldn't want more than 3" i have to use a pole or climb damn near on top of the ladder to reach the back wall especially in the corners..and that isn't too safe. I'd want 4' or >4' with a couple of access holes.

At 24" over the garage door, that's about like mine...i didn't see the need to go say 4-5 feet and have access panels like in that pic but could be handy i'm sure if you want more space...just have to have access panels at that depth.

2) 16 seems way overkill...mines every 24.


3) I can't really comment on this, my garage walls were block so I used redheads, i do have one short wall studded which yeah i used 1/4x4 but it was my back where i have a 2 footer. I usually use around that size for wall storage so seems ok to me.

The only thing i really did different than those loftbuilders is I ran theaded up above the joist so the steel channel spanned two joists, and i dropped it down (so weight is pushing down instead of pulling). I've had the garage overhang metal racks lagged in like that with tons of weight, i just felt more comfortable with this route (as well as visually).

You probably don't even need 2bys, the difference in cost was negligible and the 2 bys at depot,etc are usually staighter anyways so i just used those. The cost is in the hangers if you go that route, theaded rod, channel, and the ply...but with 24 center i used really thin plywood...plenty of support.

Here's how i did mine..

Basically i lagged a level 2 by ledger all the way around, nailed my hangers on the ledger every 24 center (I chose the middle of the garage door, marked then worked 24 out so bit off on each side at the ends but a bit cleaner visually). My front rods are like at 5 or 6 foot points so -----* -----*----- ...no thought here, just seemed even and good distance a 2 by could easily span.

Then I figured out depth (3 on back, 2 on sides) and measured and dropped my rods..put the 2bys on the front (drilled the holes for the rods), then i just cut and installed the joists. I did not use hangers on the front...just nailed them. (screws would probably be a bit better but I didn't feel like pre-drilling). So for the front just measure your depth, then temporarily support and nail a scrap board across the top of the ledger and front to get it all lined up and install your joists. Though a couple of times i dropped my rod first and went ahead and ran it through the front, just whatever worked.

Mine is pretty overbuilt, i don't have a ton of experience with this stuff so i usually end up going a bit overkill from lack of knowledge. But like I mention, a couple of 200 lbs dudes could jump and hang off it and it not budge and i've loaded the **** out of it lol

oh also for this type stuff i use my finish nailer a lot with 4" nails, helps me just to get everything set (can be easily pulled apart if i screw up), then i put the real nails or screws in. So like for my joist i hang em in the back nailed, finish nail the front bam bam bam then i'll go back and sink a couple of nails in each one on the face.
 
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tba

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I turned my shelving upside down and attached to the ceiling.
 

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lemmy

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You can get some ideas from this site too

http://www.garagestorageloftbuilders.com/lofts.htm

notice on a few of those they mount the strut on the ceiling under the rafters, same method as the above garage storage (hiloft,etc) uses. I just didn't like having the strut in view and lagging underneath.

so how did you get your strut above the rafters? did you cut out the dry wall on your ceiling, or do you have access to the attic space above your garage? I have a room above my garage so I was planning on just mounting my strut on the ceiling and cunning a couple of bolts up into the rafters.
 

shannonw

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Where i mounted mine i have access above the garage...after i knew where the rod needed to go through the ceiling...then just drilled/punched a hole for the treaded rod thru the drywall ceiling.

i just cut off pieces of of the strut channel, enough to bridge two ceiling joists. I lagged them in on top the two joists. It's bolted with washer and nut on both sides of the strut (so if you were to push up or down it wouldn't move)

It took a little planning and mapping out to make sure i wasn't going to hit anything above there like you wouldn't want to get everything setup and find your rod place is right on the joist, or that you have access to where it needs to go. Last one i did i was a little off and had decking down right there in the attic, so i had to go up and remove some of that so i could get to it.

If i didn't have access above, i'd just do it under and lag the strut into the joists underneath like them. Difference there is you're relying solely on the lag screws, above it's the nuts and the channel is pushing down on top of the joists from the rod pulling it. I used a small lag screw there too...just enough to keep the strut from moving. But i'm pretty sure most of the weight is on the wall header.
 

smike

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here is a few pic's of mine that i just completed. Made out of 2x6, plywood and 1/2 all thread. I put lay in light under it. Now I have to insulate and build a work bench.
 

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shannonw

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smike that is sharp! what lighting fixtures did you use? That's a nice idea. I was thinking on going back at some point and drywall underneath and put some small mini can lights but that's a nice idea
 

e-tek

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Perforated angle, Unistrut, and even threaded rod can get expensive. You can do all this with vertical 2 x 4's and deck screws.

But, being a carpenter, I still like the favorable cost and ease of wood/ screws.

IMO, threaded rod is just so much cleaner and takes up so little room. I did mine like this and have 3 shelves hanging under it.

here is a few pic's of mine that i just completed. Made out of 2x6, plywood and 1/2 all thread. I put lay in light under it. Now I have to insulate and build a work bench.

That's awesome! The lights are a great idea - hope to see it all when done.

Here's one of my set-ups - not a great picture (sorry!). I have 3 shelves hanging from rods on both ends of the shop. Each are now loaded with over 1000lbs!

View-bike.jpg
 

Jack90210

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I have done a bunch of this type of shelving in my restaurants and in my last garage. Here are my thoughts:

1) Use threaded rod to suspend the shelf at the front. 1/4" is plenty heavy-duty. I have used 5/16" for heavy loads (like, a 16' (foot) x 28" x 10" menu board light box made out of angle and sheet steel). One rod every 32" is more than enough; you can get by with fewer rods but then you need a stronger front edge reinforcement than a 2x2 to prevent sagging between the rods. (I have used 2x2 angle iron, for example, for spans up to 8 feet long which results in a very solid shelf.)

2) Attach the threaded rod directly to the wood structure with "wood screw threaded studs." These are short (2"-3") studs with wood threads at one end and machine threads on the other. Attach the rod to the studs with coupling nuts. You will need to drop a plumb-bob line to find out exactly where to place these so that your rods are perpendicular to the ground. If you have a commercial/metal building, you may have to get creative with spanning the trusses above the ceiling with either wood or metal so that your rods drop at just the right place.

3) Attach the rod at the very front (1" - 1 1/2" back or so) of your shelf, and under the front edge of the shelf use a reinforcement of some kind that the rod will go through. I typically use a 2x2 and I recess the bottom of the rod, and the nut/washer, into the 2x2. (Use a washer above the nut, and either use two nuts to lock them together or use Nylocks to keep it from loosening.)

4) If you want to get fancy, you can cover the rod with any type of plastic tubing or even copper tubing.

I can take a few pics if anyone wants to see what I'm talking about.
 
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I've been thinking about doing this, but my ceiling joists run parallel to the wall that the shelf is going on. I don't have easy access to the space above so can't really hide the strut above and having to mounted to the ceiling perpendicular to the wall would just look bad I think.

So I am thinking about running a 2x4 diagonally down to the wall and having the shelf cantilever off the wall. Are there any problems with this? It will be supported at the ends and at least one spot in the middle (main beam going across garage).

Thanks.
 
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