Ceiling Strapping for Pole Barn Ceiling

[Gillespie85]

When installing studs for ceiling strapping in preparation of installing a metal ceiling in a pole barn...

Should you surface mount the 2x4s to the under side of the bottom chord of the trusses?

or

Should you mount the 2x4s vertically between the trusses (with joist hangers or screwing through bottom chord) giving the ceiling a flush mount to the bottom of the truss chord?

 

[Gillespie85]

example of each method seen in picture...

 

[Chris705]

I think that is a question only you can answer....each way is acceptable if done right. Obviously one is very easy and the other is very time consuming and more costly. If you can give up the vertical space and live with surface mounting that is the way I would go about it. If I was tight on vertical space and need to fight for every inch then I would inset the ceiling supports. Choice is yours to make.

 

[stm317]

You may be able to skip that completely if you're willing to run the metal perpendicular to the trusses.

But given the choice, I'd run the boards vertically between the trusses to be flush at the bottom. It will be more work, but it would be stronger and better able to handle vertical loading.

 

[Gillespie85]

thanks... just wanted to make sure there wasnt a 'standard' way of doing it.

now does anyone know if a vapor barrier is necessary with a ceiling and insulation? or just need on your walls only?

 

[4cyclic]

I did mine surface mount. 90 degress to the trusses. More surface to screw the metal panels on, specially if you pre-drill panels. 1.5 in vs. 3.5 in.

Does not take much to miss a truss.

Plus as already said, much faster to install.

 

[MushCreek]

I strapped the ceiling in our house for more support for thick insulation, and to level the ceiling. I laid the straps flat, not vertical. It took many hours of shimming, but my ceilings came out perfect. For metal, this wouldn't matter unless the trusses were way out.

 

[dfiler2]

How far apart are your rafters? Four feet or less would not require any strapping.

 

[Gillespie85]

my rafters are on 8ft centers... i was initially thinking of installing the 2x4s vertically given they should be able to hand any additional load better. i will be hanging some signs and whatnot from the ceiling in the future.

 

[stm317]

Yes to vapor barrier in the ceiling.

 

[Gillespie85]

stm317... so does the vapor barrier go between the ceiling and insulation then?

 

[LXCam]

my rafters are on 8ft centers... i was initially thinking of installing the 2x4s vertically given they should be able to hand any additional load better. i will be hanging some signs and whatnot from the ceiling in the future.

I'd absolutely go with them vertical then. You could use hangers but you could also just toe screw or nail them as well just like how blocking is nailed in. Personally I'd go with screws.

 

[Voi]

If you go vertical & have been looking for an excuse to get a laser measure then it's a great tool for this job.

I have a smaller Bosch that works up to 50' & it is so useful in places where stretching out a tape by yourself is an issue.

 

[mltdwn12]

So I don't want to hijack the thread, but my questions seems applicable; I'm working on my walls now installing studs on a 2' center for batting and OSB. Then I'll move to the ceiling. Should I run 2x4's perpendicular to the bottom of the trusses and then attaching OSB or corrugated metal sheets or attach right to the bottom of the trusses? Would adding the weight of the 2x4's and the ceiling material plus fiberglass overload the design? The trusses are on 4' centers right now.

Thanks!
Craig

 

[stm317]

stm317... so does the vapor barrier go between the ceiling and insulation then?

Yes. I'd attach it to your framing before hanging the metal.

 

[stm317]

So I don't want to hijack the thread, but my questions seems applicable; I'm working on my walls now installing studs on a 2' center for batting and OSB. Then I'll move to the ceiling. Should I run 2x4's perpendicular to the bottom of the trusses and then attaching OSB or corrugated metal sheets or attach right to the bottom of the trusses? Would adding the weight of the 2x4's and the ceiling material plus fiberglass overload the design? The trusses are on 4' centers right now.

Thanks!
Craig

This all depends on your truss design. Figure an educated guess for the weight you'll be adding, add 10% in case your guess is wrong, and contact the truss manufacturer to see what they're designed to handle.

4 ft is probably too far for OSB to span without sagging. Especially with insulation adding weight on top. If you want OSB for a ceiling material, you'll probably need to add framing. If the trusses can handle the weight, I'd just mount your metal right to the bottom of the trusses. It will be cheaper, easier, lighter and the metal can handle a 4ft span just fine.

 

[Gillespie85]

If you go vertical & have been looking for an excuse to get a laser measure then it's a great tool for this job.

I have a smaller Bosch that works up to 50' & it is so useful in places where stretching out a tape by yourself is an issue.

As was already mentioned, you need to contact your builder or truss manufacturer to find out the PSF (pound per square foot) rating for the bottom chord load of your trusses.

Mine are on 8ft centers and are rated to handle up to 5 psf on the bottom chord. Dry 2x4s weigh about 0.4 psf and 29 ga metal weighs 0.65 psf, blow in insulation can range 1.0-1.5 psf. So when I install my ceiling, I will be at only 2.6 psf.

You will need to figure this same kind of calculation according to your truss rating and material you plan on using.

 

[mltdwn12]

This all depends on your truss design. Figure an educated guess for the weight you'll be adding, add 10% in case your guess is wrong, and contact the truss manufacturer to see what they're designed to handle.

4 ft is probably too far for OSB to span without sagging. Especially with insulation adding weight on top. If you want OSB for a ceiling material, you'll probably need to add framing. If the trusses can handle the weight, I'd just mount your metal right to the bottom of the trusses. It will be cheaper, easier, lighter and the metal can handle a 4ft span just fine.

Tough part about contacting the truss manufacturer is I don't know who they are and I can never get a return call from the people who built the pole barn for the previous owners I even contacted them about closing in the one "car port" side and some additional work, maybe $10K worth. They said what I wanted was no big deal, said they send a quote and weeks go by with no return call or email! If I went with metal for a ceiling on 4' centers, could I still put insulation up there? May be better to add some additional support. I may keep trying some local contractors once I finish adding wood on the walls for insulation and sheathing, it's tough getting people to return calls in this area for some reason. I'd loike to think it's because all of the rain has them behind and not that they just have lousy customer service!

 

[Augus7us]

Tough part about contacting the truss manufacturer is I don't know who they are and I can never get a return call from the people who built the pole barn for the previous owners I even contacted them about closing in the one "car port" side and some additional work, maybe $10K worth. They said what I wanted was no big deal, said they send a quote and weeks go by with no return call or email! If I went with metal for a ceiling on 4' centers, could I still put insulation up there? May be better to add some additional support. I may keep trying some local contractors once I finish adding wood on the walls for insulation and sheathing, it's tough getting people to return calls in this area for some reason. I'd loike to think it's because all of the rain has them behind and not that they just have lousy customer service!

I have the same trusses as you do. Based on my conversation with folks and posting photos on here, I'm assuming I have 5psf to work with as mentioned above. I don't think I would try OSB. I'm going with metal panels, vapor barrier and blown in. That's as much as I want to push it.

I see call the truss mfg mentioned often but I assume most are like me and have no idea who that is or if they are even in business any more. I was never able to find someone that would give me a definitive answer. I imagine no one wants to risk the possible liability. All said I'd be fine to do what I mentioned above.

-Clint

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd absolutely go with them vertical then. You could use hangers but you could also just toe screw or nail them as well just like how blocking is nailed in. Personally I'd go with screws.

Unless you have a framing nailer which would make the job go a bit quicker than running screws in.

 

[NUTTSGT]

So I don't want to hijack the thread, but my questions seems applicable; I'm working on my walls now installing studs on a 2' center for batting and OSB. Then I'll move to the ceiling. Should I run 2x4's perpendicular to the bottom of the trusses and then attaching OSB or corrugated metal sheets or attach right to the bottom of the trusses? Would adding the weight of the 2x4's and the ceiling material plus fiberglass overload the design? The trusses are on 4' centers right now.

Thanks!
Craig

Craig, I would do ribbed metal on the ceiling rather than OSB. The ribbed metal is a one and done. No filling gaps, nail holes, no 2 coats a of primer and a coat or two of paint. Buy, borrow or rent a drywall lift to hold the metal sheets and you can do it easily yourself. yes, a bit of up and down a ladder but you're working your schedule and nobody else's.

Personally, if you go metal on the ceiling, I would get the walls done, insulation and OSB up. Once that is done, screw your j-channel directly to the walls and then put the steel up.

 

[mltdwn12]

Craig, I would do ribbed metal on the ceiling rather than OSB. The ribbed metal is a one and done. No filling gaps, nail holes, no 2 coats a of primer and a coat or two of paint. Buy, borrow or rent a drywall lift to hold the metal sheets and you can do it easily yourself. yes, a bit of up and down a ladder but you're working your schedule and nobody else's.

Personally, if you go metal on the ceiling, I would get the walls done, insulation and OSB up. Once that is done, screw your j-channel directly to the walls and then put the steel up.

Eric, I like the idea of the ribbed metal ceiling. This may have been addressed but I don't see it, so my rafters are on 4' centers, if I run the metal panels perpendicular to the bottom of the trusses, would I still need to run some additional wood 90 degrees to the trusses for additional attachment points? I was thinking about blow in insulation. I looked at the one picture posted earlier, but can't tell if that's what was done. I am going to complete the walls first before I tackle the roof! Thanks to everyone for input!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Eric, I like the idea of the ribbed metal ceiling. This may have been addressed but I don't see it, so my rafters are on 4' centers, if I run the metal panels perpendicular to the bottom of the trusses, would I still need to run some additional wood 90 degrees to the trusses for additional attachment points? I was thinking about blow in insulation. I looked at the one picture posted earlier, but can't tell if that's what was done. I am going to complete the walls first before I tackle the roof! Thanks to everyone for input!

I'm not going to claim to be an expert on building pole barns but I wouldn't worry about 4' OC trusses. I think there has been many built and featured here that are metal ceiling and blown insulation.

Check out RR Buildings on Youtube, he does nice work and gives plenty of pointers.

 

[Bob2112]

I have 10' between my trusses and I did not use any strapping and 9.5" thick batt insulation on top - no problems. You do need to get PBR metal panels though. They are rated for a 6' unsupported span as roofing material, but when used as a ceiling they don't have to deal with wind and snow, so they can carry a 10' span just fine. You can check out my thread if you like.

Nice thing about not using any strapping is all the extra weight is not hanging from your trusses. Not to mention, less time spent putting up the strapping and some saved money from the lumber savings. I didn't have any trouble hitting the trusses with my screws. The panels are only three feet wide, and if you get panels that are 8ft the ends are easy to see where the trusses are. If you get 16ft panels, then you can just use a level or string to mark the truss location for the center run. It goes fast.