Cement or epoxy that self-levels

[JackOfDiamonds]

I'm putting a door where the slab is sloped about 1/4 inch higher on one side of the door.

I thought about ripping thin wood wedges with my table saw, but someone suggested making dams on each side of the opening and pouring in something that is thin enough to level itself out perfectly. This sounds like a good idea but I don't know what product I'm looking for. If I use regular mortar mix and just thin it a lot, will that work?

 

[weadjust]

Lowes or Home Depot has floor leveler

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-555-Level-Pro-40-lb-Self-Leveling-Underlayment-12165/100549588

https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Self-Leveler-Plus-50-lb-Powder-Self-leveling-Underlayment/5014025089

 

[nadogail]

A self leveling epoxy caulk is often used to fill gaps under machinery after it is leveled we called it Epoxy Caulk.

 

[zendriver]

A framed door?

If so, I'd just shove in wet mortar with a trowel edge.

 

[Sumboodie]

The door should handle 1/4" easily. I'd be surprised if most doors/floors are less than that.

 

[y'sguy]

I've used this before.

Quikrete Hydraulic Cement

It worked okay for the two different project I had. Your job may vary.
You would make a for or dam as you said. Not sure how much of a structure you are trying to form, but this stuff does level out. Most common use I've seen for this is mopunting railiings in a drilled out hole in pre-existing concrete. Works excellent for that. There are other brands too.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

This is what I ended up doing with supposedly self-leveling underlayment.

Cost me $20 for the smallest package and I probably used $1 worth.

The problem as it turned out is that it didn't actually self-level. Maybe that was expecting too much. It leveled itself out into a plane, but the plane still follows the tilt of the slab. I think instead of a good 1/4" of slope there is now maybe 1/8" to 3/16" of slope. I called this good enough and put the door in without any further shimming. I also shimmed the rest of the door to be square instead of level. It seems fine.

I think it worked out because besides the left-right slope of the slab, the sill was also very un-flat in the other direction and so before it was like it was basically balancing on a hump before. Now it sits on there real nice all the way flat across both dimensions, but still not quite level.

 

[Kpaige]

I just ground mine with a 4” grinder with diamond blade and made a spot that was level. Benefit is it creates a ledge so if water got in under the sill it can’t get in the building

 

[PCustoms]

Does the door have a threshold?

Is this an exterior door?

You could have just cut one jamb long and there would have been a slight taper at the bottom of the door. Sweep or threshold would have taken up the visual difference. I'm confused why you'd go through this effort, especially when that wall appears to be framed with non treated lumber on concrete.

 

[bb29510]

five star

 

[Fav Onefour]

Get your two foot level and a pencil. Start marking anything over the low point on the threshold.
Put a grinding wheel (mentioned above) and grind down the high side.
Those grinding wheels aren't free, but they do the job well.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Does the door have a threshold?

Is this an exterior door?

You could have just cut one jamb long and there would have been a slight taper at the bottom of the door. Sweep or threshold would have taken up the visual difference. I'm confused why you'd go through this effort, especially when that wall appears to be framed with non treated lumber on concrete.

It's an exterior type door but it's inside my garage in an interior wall between my air conditioned shop and rest of the garage. It was a pre-hung door with a threshold attached at the bottom.

 

[Fav Onefour]

Funny thing about those "self leveling" compounds. The label should accurately say something like sorta self leveling.
I've used a few different brands and they seem to be about the same. They can certainly get you closer to level, but they do better with some help.

I use a few tricks for different applications. Small areas like the threshold, I mark a level line around the edge and use something like a paint stick to coax the liquid mixture into a smoother, leveled surface. In bigger rooms, I have used chalk lines around the edge. Bigger pours are a challenge especially if you are doing multiple batches. Even with a quick second batch, the seams will not merge smooth. I usually try to pre make a light push board screwed to a handle. I try sizing the board to work best in the area. The overall concept is somewhat like trying to sweep water. The extra coaxing helps the compound settle into a more level surface.

@JackOfDiamonds , I know those tips don't help now, but maybe for the next pour?
I like what you have done with the threshold base and extra prep to make it a real doorway. In the end, the opening should suit you well. You can install the door and use extra sealing under the threshold. It will probably be better than a lot of exterior doors. On the other hand, a little extra leveling will make it even better. Most sealing methods use material with some squish. Caulks, foam, rubber membrane, etc. If you use more sealer to compensate, the more squish you will have in the end. Thresholds around shop areas can take a beating with heavy items rolling and dragging through the door opening.

 

[p00p]

What I found that works decent, but not 100%, is to apply a bunch more than needed & manually screed the product. Screed it to the most convenient place for removing the excess product.
Of course it may not always be possible due to where it's being applied.
I makeshift a temporary ledger/form leaving one area of it open for allowing the unneeded product to flow out.