CEMENT WALL ANCHORS slight prob.

[scratchedup]

I am drilling the holes plenty deep and using a 1/4" bit per instructions. The problem is that it seems there is no was to drive the wedge nail all the way into the lead "seat".

There is a point during the hammering process where the wedge nail stops going in any further and starts to bend. Not a big deal but annoying. same problem with 1 1/2" or 2".

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

Just a guess, but try wiggling your bit, a little to make the hole diameter a smidge larger. My guess, is the hole needs a little more room to expand, which is why the " nail " is proud. Its run out of " real estate ".

Also, might consider " Tap cons " in lieu of the expanding anchors, if you dont get it dialed in.

 

[CNGsaves]

Electric or air hammer ???

BIGGER hammer !!!

Seriously, I'd agree with above to waller the hole a bit.

 

[demographic]

Sometimes when using an SDS Tungsten tipped drill bit for hundreds of holes it gets worn enough that its undersized, could be a possibility.

Try one that's half a MM bigger?

 

[ilovevocs]

1. Ream the holes well. You have to get all the dust out before they will seat. Don't worry about them getting a bit out of round. The nail in anchor isn't super picky when it comes to the hole being oversized or out of round.

The anchor should slide in loosely, you shouldn't have to pound it until it's seated.

2. Do you have rebar / wire in the wall?

They create a unique challenge unto themselves.

3. Personally I would be using a powder actuated gun to pin those if I had more than a few to do. It's much faster.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[1991Syclone]

I second the opinion of switching to Tapcons. You can get them at the local hardware store in a variety of sizes. I never really did trust those hammer in style ones for some reason.

 

[ilovevocs]

Another note. I have noticed the cheap chi-com generic bits are not measuring true to size.

One of my estimators tried to be cheap and buy some because they were half the cost of the hiltis but they ended up costing us allot in labor due to breaking fasteners from the undersized hole and their short usable life.

 

[BD1]

Not being a smart a$$, but blow out the holes before inserting anchor. There is more concrete dust in there then you think.

 

[TLCObsession]

Not being a smart a$$, but blow out the holes before inserting anchor. There is more concrete dust in there then you think.

My Makita hammer drill came with a bulb style blower - its amazing what a difference it makes.

 

[scratchedup]

THX all
Yes...my thought was the holes need to be slightly bigger.

And the powder/dust is a real problem.

And the bit seems old and worn...the drill was borrowed and is old.

 

[scratchedup]

BTW what bits does this monster use...SDS, SDS max???
Hilti TE 17.

 

[theoldwizard1]

BFH or rent/buy a Ramset powder actuated fastener. <$30 for the base tool.

 

[fury9]

Use a nail and some copper wire or tie wire, or use a tapcon. Are you furring the wall out for drywall?

 

[djjsr]

My workshop is an old brick building. I've tried a lot of different methods to mount things to the brick. Now all I use is Tapcons. I've used lots of them and never had any problem.

 

[laydoubtFab]

A can of electronic equipment duster works good to blow the concrete dust out of the holes if you don't have an air compressor available. Makes a big difference in fastener performance.

 

[theoldwizard1]

For block/brick, that crumbles easily, or concrete with light to medium loads, I use Red Head Polyset Anchors. They are basically a heavy duty plastic wall anchor. Drill the hole, place the anchor, drive in a #12 screw. I like them because the are fast and easy. For thicker material, ust use a longer screw. If you are mounting something to a floor in a wet area (laundry tub) you can use a SS screws ! No rust !!

If I had a heavy load (like a horizontal ledger for a shelf) I would just reinforce them by running a 2x4 flat to the wall from under the ledger to the floor.

 

[joe49]

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=rawl%20concrete%20spikes

Been using these for 25 years, and tapcons.

 

[tarbellb]

Will second most the above.

1) check bit for wear

2) blow out the holes with a straw or compressor

I personally like those hammer in style, but only if the conditions are right ie good wall material and name brand fasteners.

 

[fourjeepin]

I recently did this with a concrete ceiling in my basement. Powder actuated did the job quick and easy. The walls are block, so I had to drill those and used Tapcons. So much slower than the powder actuated nails.

 

[BlackTalon]

We spec these types of anchots a lot, and I've seen tens of thousands of these that have been installed. It is rare for me to go on a project where they were used and seeing more than one or two like this out of hundreds. That holds true for Rawl/ Powers and Red head. If this is happening to most of the ones you are installing it definitely points to a drill bit that may be slightly too small.

 

[MJD1]

2 , 16 penny nails driven into a 1/4" hole is as strong and a lot cheaper.