Central AC Install Cost Estimations/New Ductwork?

[Bodj Built]

Hey everyone, I have a 1470sqft, single story house, built in 1974, and it only has a furnace for central heat. The furnace is original, pretty rusted through, and doesn't work. Anyways, I ordered this setup based on the recommendation from my sister in law's father, who is an engineer that sizes AC units to buildings. He didn't go through all the calculations, but said it should suit us just fine

Goodman Unit

I now have all the components at my house. Here's my thinking:
I can get the furnace/evaporator mounted in place and build the pad for the condenser and get that mounted. That all seems like a pretty quick deal. However, I don't have any tooling for refrigerant stuff, so I'd need to bring in an AC company to get it all connected. Am I dumb for thinking they'll come and connect a system they didn't fully install? If they will do it, what ballpark figure should I expect to pay for that? I'll be reaching out to companies this week for prices, but I wanted to see if I'm dumb for even asking.

Second, since our duct work is original to the house, I'm concerned about asbestos. Here is what our ducts look like in the attic. They have some type of wrapping, but I'm not sure of the material. I haven't touched it or disturbed it in case it does have asbestos.





So I suppose my questions are as follows:

1: What should I expect to pay for the AC hookup if I install the units myself
2: Does that look like asbestos coating?
3: If so, since it's on the outside of the ducts, does it matter?
4: If it is asbestos and needs to be removed, can I leave the duct work and wrap it in some type of insulation, or do I need to completely redo the ducting?

I do a lot of metal fabrication and sheet metal work and I'm generally very handy, I'm just jumping into a realm I don't know much about.

 

[fitter30]

Doubt anyone / company would hook up your equipment. They don't want to be responsible for warranty, problems with duct or your work. Quit using asbestos for duct around 1980. Asbestos abatement company will come out and test it.

 

[danski0224]

The stuff in back of the picture is plain old duct wrap, most likely fiberglass.

 

[danski0224]

1: What should I expect to pay for the AC hookup if I install the units myself

Good luck with that.

Most won't touch it.

You can expect to pay anywhere from $5 to $20,000...

The customers don't know how to size equipment.

Most HVAC shops apparently can't size equipment, either.

Same goes for the ductwork. Most customers don't know how to size it, and most HVAC shops really don't know, either.

Sad, but true. Most residential guys think a 6" round will flow 100 cfm... and it doesn't.

Then when it's all done, and it doesn't work after the stuff YOU picked and YOU designed, YOU expect the T&M HVAC guy to fix it for free. Even when the customer agrees to the scope of work in the beginning, that all turns to **** if it doesn't work. And the customer expects free hand holding and design.

Not worth it. Been there. Nope, no more.

 

[mm08822]

Price I can't tell you, but here is what is needed for the ac.

Install evaporator on top of furnace (assume upflow)
Fabricate plenum to match up to existing ductwork.
Locate furnace and tie in gas, electric abd ducts.
Install humidifier and air cleaner as required.
Need a pad for condenser. Find shady location. I prefer concrete.
Run liquid and vapor lines. Bend tubing/braze fittings as needed.
Evacute lines w/nitrogen.
Vacuum test lines.
Pressure test line w/nitrogen.
Open service fittings on both lines.
If lines are longer than 15', will need more freon. (You can't touch or buy freon w/o a EPA 608 cert. Who knows what else CA wants.)
Operate ac and verify temps/pressures, air flow.
Operate furnace.

Firing up the furnace can be done seperately from the ac. Only need the fan for ac. (Just put the A coil in.)

You may have to agree to no warranty from HVAC Co, but I'm sure they will be happy to take your money as T&M. Might take a few calls.

Do as much of the grunt work as you can.

 

[Bodj Built]

Price I can't tell you, but here is what is needed for the ac.

Install evaporator on top of furnace (assume upflow)
Fabricate plenum to match up to existing ductwork.
Locate furnace and tie in gas, electric abd ducts.
Install humidifier and air cleaner as required.
Need a pad for condenser. Find shady location. I prefer concrete.
Run liquid and vapor lines. Bend tubing/braze fittings as needed.
Evacute lines w/nitrogen.
Vacuum test lines.
Pressure test line w/nitrogen.
Open service fittings on both lines.
If lines are longer than 15', will need more freon. (You can't touch or buy freon w/o a EPA 608 cert. Who knows what else CA wants.)
Operate ac and verify temps/pressures, air flow.
Operate furnace.

Firing up the furnace can be done seperately from the ac. Only need the fan for ac. (Just put the A coil in.)

You may have to agree to no warranty from HVAC Co, but I'm sure they will be happy to take your money as T&M. Might take a few calls.

Do as much of the grunt work as you can.

Awesome. This was what I was expecting. I've done quite a bit of research on the install already, but I don't have the tooling to pull a vacuum in the lines/add refrigerant.

I'm also expecting to not have a warranty on anything. I know that goes with the territory

 

[nadogail]

I use an Independent HVAC contractor who buys Goodman Equipment. Goodman was an OK lesser known brand until they were bought by Daiken, now they are better regarded. I have Goodman Systems in three rentals and have only had to replace one capacitor.

I don't know if my AC guy would go to Moorpark, but PM me and I will forward his contact information.

 

[Bodj Built]

I use an Independent HVAC contractor who buys Goodman Equipment. Goodman was an OK lesser known brand until they were bought by Daiken, now they are better regarded. I have Goodman Systems in three rentals and have only had to replace one capacitor.

I don't know if my AC guy would go to Moorpark, but PM me and I will forward his contact information.

Awesome, that would be a huge help. PM incoming

 

[dcg9381]

I've had Goodman too. It was fine. Seems the go-to for "spec house" choice around here. 16 SEER or so, nothing impressive. Some of you HVAC guys can correct me, but from what I was told what matters more than the "brand" that build it is the quality of the install / duct work.

 

[ratflinger]

If lines are longer than 15', will need more freon. (You can't touch or buy freon w/o a EPA 608 cert. Who knows what else CA wants.)

Wrong, you can buy freon if you are providing it for a licensed tech. Have you looked at the EPA 608 test? It's not very hard and you don't have to be an HVAC person to take it. I'm thinking of taking it.

 

[mm08822]

Wrong, you can buy freon if you are providing it for a licensed tech. Have you looked at the EPA 608 test? It's not very hard and you don't have to be an HVAC person to take it. I'm thinking of taking it.

Ok,true if a reseller of sealed containers (meaning he doesn't access the gas in the bottles.) This wasn't in the scope of the OP's need. My point was really about having some EPA goon trying to stroke him with ~$44k fine for handling open gas.

I have taken some random pre-tests found online and agree it's about at an 8th grade level of difficulty. I've found the proctered test fee as low as $50. I may take it to redo my system myself.

 

[karoc]

My .2 worth opinion, as pointed out by others that’s duct wrap for insulation. What that means is your ductwork is hard pipe, meaning top of line. At todays prices only Bill Gates of world could afford. If your system size for heat then you’re good to go. As rule of thumb which I know I’m going to get beat up, the tonage is about 600 sq ft per ton base on 95* days. Thats in Texas so your area may be little different.
If I was still in trade, I would sweat copper pull vacuum, open valves but I wouldn’t warranty anything. I would charge you service call just come out look, since your getting bids on installation. Keep in mind that most companies wouldn’t mess with this but you will need look for one or two man shop. As they say Cash talks, you know rest.

 

[Bodj Built]

My .2 worth opinion, as pointed out by others that’s duct wrap for insulation. What that means is your ductwork is hard pipe, meaning top of line. At todays prices only Bill Gates of world could afford. If your system size for heat then you’re good to go. As rule of thumb which I know I’m going to get beat up, the tonage is about 600 sq ft per ton base on 95* days. Thats in Texas so your area may be little different.
If I was still in trade, I would sweat copper pull vacuum, open valves but I wouldn’t warranty anything. I would charge you service call just come out look, since your getting bids on installation. Keep in mind that most companies wouldn’t mess with this but you will need look for one or two man shop. As they say Cash talks, you know rest.

Nadogail recommended a gentleman so I need to contact him. However, the other day I was driving on our street and saw a neighbor having HVAC work done. I asked the workers to come check out my house after, and he said he can do it, including new ducts, for $7500. But he said it does have asbestos in some areas so I'd need to have it removed before he touches it. I'm going to get an asbestos test kit to verify.

 

[karoc]

Good idea to play it safe, at work we had several areas that were hot that had to be incapacitated or removed

 

[danski0224]

What that means is your ductwork is hard pipe, meaning top of line.

Maybe. There's nothing wrong with flex if it is installed correctly. Most isn't. Flex duct can be both ductwork and insulated out of the box. There are different grades of flex ductwork.

Same for metal ductwork. Not such a big deal if it is installed/designed poorly.

At todays prices only Bill Gates of world could afford.

Only Bill Gates can afford poorly designed/installed ductwork.

Unfortunately, he must have owned a lot of homes, because poorly designed/installed ductwork is the norm not the exception.

 

[danski0224]

But he said it does have asbestos in some areas

It would be interesting to know what these areas look like.

I see zero asbestos in the first picture.

 

[Bodj Built]

It would be interesting to know what these areas look like.

I see zero asbestos in the first picture.

The guy was saying the fuzzy stuff on the register is the asbestos, but I'm pretty sure it's just dust...

 

[danski0224]

The guy was saying the fuzzy stuff on the register is the asbestos, but I'm pretty sure it's just dust...

Interesting.

I've only seen that on OLD gravity systems here. Like around 100 years old at this point. Old coal systems. Haven't seen it for a long time.

Looks like a white cloth wrapped around the sheet metal.

It certainly could be asbestos. The house isn't old enough in my area to see something like that. Different regions, different practices I guess.

Gravity system = no fan. HUGE ductwork, round duct, looks like an octopus.

I have seen it a couple of times on old soldered together wall stack.

 

[Bodj Built]

Interesting.

I've only seen that on OLD gravity systems here. Like around 100 years old at this point. Old coal systems. Haven't seen it for a long time.

Looks like a white cloth wrapped around the sheet metal.

It certainly could be asbestos. The house isn't old enough in my area to see something like that. Different regions, different practices I guess.

Gravity system = no fan. HUGE ductwork, round duct, looks like an octopus.

I have seen it a couple of times on old soldered together wall stack.

It's a 50ish year old house, so not sure why it would have such an old system. Looks like I'm calling in an asbestos removal company to check it out.

 

[Bodj Built]

Figured I'd update this. I have a local guy coming today through Sunday to remove all the old stuff and install the new. Pretty excited to finally have heat and AC after over a year! This guy came in $2500 cheaper than a previous quote, came as a referral from a friend, and lives in our neighborhood.

 

[meathooker]

Sad, but true. Most residential guys think a 6" round will flow 100 cfm... and it doesn't.
.

do tell …

 

[Jackfre]

Sad but true? What is sad is that you didn’t convert your system to mini-splits. You have gone new system with old technology. Why?

 

[danski0224]

do tell …

You can get a ductulator and see for yourself.

 

[danski0224]

Sad but true? What is sad is that you didn’t convert your system to mini-splits. You have gone new system with old technology. Why?

"Real" mini-splits (not the cheapest thing found on DIY HVAC website) cost real money.

There is still the issue of getting conditioned air into each room, which is comparatively easy with ductwork.

OP mentions $7,500 in Post 13. There's no way that a mini split conversion is happening for that price... unless one goes and buys the cheapest junk on DIY HVAC website and DIY's the job.

OP is in CA, and I'd bet that if the job was done on the up and up, with permits, there would also be before and after duct leakage testing requirements. SO, there might not be much of a $$$ difference if the jobs were done "properly" with respect to permits and required testing.