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Central Washington 36x60x12

hoppsxc140

Active member
Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Messages
37
Location
Yakima,Wa
I wanted to share my build since I've gathered many ideas from everyone else.

First a little back story.

I purchased a 4 bedroom, 2 bath 1700 sq ft, 2002 manufactured home on 2 acres in 2006, It was a foreclosure and I paid 96,000. At the dead end of a gravel road and surrounded by the back of other peoples multiple acreage lots. Fast forward to 2015 after multiple friends living a bachelor life style, a wife, and two little girls, 3 and 8 mos the house is due for some updating. I told my wife if she could find a place on at least an acre with a shop we would consider moving. After finding nothing we like my wife gave me permission last October ( hence my join date) to build a shop if she could do some things inside as well.

After multiple meetings with Doug @ Steel Structures of America discussing layouts and option I came up with something that would work and not be outrageous in cost. After meeting with the county and discovering a neighboring lot had a county ROW. I had to shift the building further behind the existing house than originally planned. This dictated the 12ft inside height since I didn't want the building to dwarf the house in front of it.

I did quite a bit of trial and error with layouts and doors to help in the overall plan.

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With only a 8x12 pressure tank house and a 10x12 plastic shed I was pleased with the area a 36x60 would give me.

Old 8x12 and 10x12 out of the way

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The company I work for is a family owned road construction/paving and concrete supplier. After stripping the area and planning finish floor elevation I began building the pad. I placed average of .8' of crushed concrete for the majority of the fill and topped it off with 3/4 minus. The first 24x36 will be 4 inches of concrete and the remaining 36x36 will be 6 inches. This change can be seen in the grade work.

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I wanted to get the bulk of the prep work done before the building was up since it is easier to grade when not inside of a building. A tip for anyone have prep done with rock. It needs to be wet throughout the process of placing and compacting. This will keep the material consistent and stop segregation of the fines. With plenty of moisture and compaction the water will stand on the surface.

The materials arrived with the crew shortly behind on a Wednesday and the post holes were done with an auger and ready for inspection.

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With the post in concrete it was ready for the trusses, roof, and wall structure. Steel Structures had planned on being in and out in 6 days but I was able to get them to leave after getting this work completed so the concrete contractor could come in and pour and finish without being inside a building as temperatures are in the high 90's and 100's.

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With the walls up and roof structure I had to get the cars parked inside just to see.

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With the building and pad ready, Poppoff Concrete was on schedule to pour the slab. These guys do great work all over the world and they are worth the wait to have a quality job done. http://www.poppoffinc.com/Index.htm


4000 PSI mix with 4lbs of structural fiber and diamond clear cure.

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Floor was to be flat, with the door forms set 1/4 inch low as seen in this picture.

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The foreman with Poppoff noticed that it was a little deep with where the skirtboard had been set. I told them this is fine as it was cheaper to have a little thicker concrete then for me to spend the time and add more gravel. Calculated out it should have taken 35 yards and they used 40, averaged about 1/2 deep throughout.
The floor was cut that night in 12x12 sections. Steel Structures showed up the following day and made short work of finishing the outside steel.

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There were a few issues with getting the final building inspection, one of them being a piece was cut at the wrong angle and they had to wait for a replacement to be shipped in. They also managed to chip the slab when removing the forms to place the trim steel. I was extremely unhappy about this, but my guys have made mistakes as well, these things happen.



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With the final done I got my electrical permit. I will be doing the electrical service myself. It will be a 100 amp service since I have enough room in the existing meter base. An electrician friend of mine will be helping and too start he brought over some demo fixtures from a Fred Meyer remodel his company is working on. I had planned on LED fixtures from Costco, but the cost of those vs. the cost of these (free) made the decision simple.

6 lamp, T8, with 3500k bulbs.

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He brought a few over and I purchased some 4100k and 6500k to get an idea of what I wanted. I will be going to the 4100k as I like this the best.

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Left side 4100k, center 3500k and right side 6500k

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This is where it sits today,

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I will bring a mini excavator home this week to dig the electrical and get that installed and work on the wiring. Eventually there will be plywood on at least the first 4 ft around the bottom, to protect the outside steel from damage from a piece of tube or anything else. I've met with northwest material handling about getting some steel racks for storage, http://www.nwhs.com/ , the salesman said they get a lot of used stuff in all the time and he will let me know when they get some 2 ft deep frames in. Getting quotes for doors, one 18x8 and 2 11x10s. I'm not in a hurry to get these done, just sometime before winter.
 
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Jay W

Active member
Joined
Nov 18, 2013
Messages
37
Location
Yakima, WA
Looks great! I would put more insulation in the walls before inside sheeting if I were you.
 
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drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,000
Location
Pacific Northwest
any updates or pictures to post? hopefully everything is ok because it's been a while since you posted.

there is a PNW (pacific NW) thread i started last year that has several of the local members posting on it you are welcome to join.

how do you like your garage and would you do anything different?
 

Farrier

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
982
Location
California Foothills
Question: I can't a permit here for a pole building so I haven't paid a lot of attention to the pole builds here. Is it normal to set posts in concrete? In my experience, setting wood posts in concrete creates a tomb for water to sit and rots the wood pretty quickly.
 
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