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Certiflat table alignment stops

Kaizen

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I bought a 3x4 ft 3/16 thick certiflat table last year. I like it for my needs. But I bought drop in stop bolts from fireball tools. You know the ones used to keep something straight so I can align a corner or such. Anyway the fireball stops fit in the holes perfectly but when pushed against the tilt/move. Certiflat stops are ridiculously priced at 20 bucks each.
Anybody found a solution to using the the fireball ones in a certiflat table?
Now I’m wondering if a normal bolt that I cut down will do the same thing due to the thin table top.


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lis2323

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I am not familiar with the table but I think you already know the answer. The prob is the lack of thickness of the top doesn’t provide enough lateral support.
 

bullnerd

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Room for small rare earth magnets around the rim?

There's always the old slit/pipe thread trick. Think of an internal collet.

I like magnets.
 

lis2323

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Post a pic of the Fireball stop. I’m not familiar with it. Perhaps you could modify it to utilize TWO holes to increase the base footprint for stability?
 
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Kaizen

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Post a pic of the Fireball stop. I’m not familiar with it. Perhaps you could modify it to utilize TWO holes to increase the base footprint for stability?



Here they are. Perhaps make a triangle to another two holes...
2d4956854ea2510d2fff9a7086ce9f26.jpg


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lis2323

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Here they are. Perhaps make a triangle to another two holes...
2d4956854ea2510d2fff9a7086ce9f26.jpg


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Thanks for that. I was suspecting that was the case.

Kaizen your “ triangular” idea may work. [emoji106]


And your third pin doesn’t need to be a Fireball one. Just use a bolt or round stock to fit the table hole
 

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bullnerd

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So the pipe expends in the hole? What is used internally to push out on the pipe? Don’t know many fab tricks


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Yeah, I didnt realize you were talking about a 2" tall stop.

But, it would still work, but you'd have to access the bottom to tighten the plug.

Basically drill and pipe tap that bottom stud, then slit it on a bandsaw (Or slitting saw if your picky) and insert a small pipe plug. It will expand the stud as you tighten the plug. Wont be "drop in" though, you'd have to reach under the table and tighten the plug to lock it in.

Or (lol) you could get fancy and drill through from the top and drop a ball bearing in to expand the stud.Then thread the top section of the hole and use a set screw to tighten from the top.

Or , you could just thread the bottom of the stud and use a big knurled knob.

I like magnets. You can get them very small and stick them into the rim around the stud.

Lis's idea sounds good too.
 

lis2323

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Okay I just zoomed in on my phone and realized they are 2” tall also! My bad.

I would just tack weld a piece of angle iron behind them. Should sit flat then.

Edit again. Maybe weld a short length of angle iron to INDIVIDUAL stops to assist them staying flat. Radius the corners or drill a couple holes in them to make them look purpose built. That should work and you will look like a rock star.
 
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Kaizen

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Drill, thread and turn some under table nuts like the Certiflat spaces and then thru drill the stops or turn some stops with threaded shanks...

yea was thinking of just threading the exposed part and putting a nut on. Just hate the idea of trying to reach to do these. perhaps time for me to buy a mill :thumbup::thumbup:
 

aka Larry

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Do your stops need to be that tall?

I was looking into buying a Certi-Flat for myself for X-mas this year, but couldn't pull the trigger. Seems I remember a video showing someone just using the head of a standard 5/8" bolt for stops?
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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Do your stops need to be that tall?

I was looking into buying a Certi-Flat for myself for X-mas this year, but couldn't pull the trigger. Seems I remember a video showing someone just using the head of a standard 5/8" bolt for stops?

No video, but that's what I do with mine. Big *** 5/8" cap head screws would be even better, but you're talking a big allen if you want to go beyond finger tight.

I really like the Certiflat tables, but I think 1/2" holes would be more appropriate for the type of table.
 

lis2323

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Do your stops need to be that tall?

I was looking into buying a Certi-Flat for myself for X-mas this year, but couldn't pull the trigger. Seems I remember a video showing someone just using the head of a standard 5/8" bolt for stops?



If he doesn’t require the height that would work fine. [emoji106]


Don’t know if this helps but here’s some random pics of a rotating table I made and homemade table clamps. 68038ddd360f9cda82a909c4f40fd48e.jpg

ad67aa1edfb4f1a4a9e8a36aca141d84.jpg6fc65a34e9435fbc62479a6c5e1699ba.jpg


9d0594694741487073dc63562c7e924b.jpg
 

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Kaizen

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Do your stops need to be that tall?

I was looking into buying a Certi-Flat for myself for X-mas this year, but couldn't pull the trigger. Seems I remember a video showing someone just using the head of a standard 5/8" bolt for stops?



At least say an inch so It references the side of tube and not the round corner. The bolt will work for flat stock great.

The certiflat is a good table overall. Sturdy and truly flat if assembled right. I got it so my 90s were actually square. These stops were key in that plan. Still have to make some clamps so I will add the stops to the list

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lis2323

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How about drilling out some 2”(or?) round stock and bushing out your stops.

Pic for reference only—-not to scale obv.

2ced9c599c66771ea6a73d7b3da41e90.jpg

Or as I mentioned earlier—- joining two Fireball stops with angle iron.

763424109ae04b1b1591d8c63c29ea3b.jpg

dc2ef26ee48a03c7bf038f8241746928.jpg
 

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Kaizen

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I will be trying making the footprint bigger with either 2 of them or the angle like you show. I don't have machine shop tools so have to keep basic. i wouldnt want to try drilling out 2 inch stock. Maybe something with black pipe fittings would work though. Appreciate the ideas.
 

matt_i

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Time for a lathe :D Drill & tap the pins on the small-end and weld up a T bolt you can hand-tighten from underneath. Will also need a blind hole spacer bushing for the T to tighten under the tabletop.

Then you can knock out a bunch more pins from some solid round :cool:

An alternate idea (no lathe needed :() is to form a triangle from flat stock/angle iron and weld to the pin. One flat sits on the plane, the other goes diagonally up near the top of the pin. The advantage would be that you don't have to have a precise hole spacing and it can be rotated thru any angle.
 

lis2323

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An alternate idea (no lathe needed :() is to form a triangle from flat stock/angle iron and weld to the pin. One flat sits on the plane, the other goes diagonally up near the top of the pin. The advantage would be that you don't have to have a precise hole spacing and it can be rotated thru any angle.



F***me! That’s just too smart. [emoji16]
 

TLCObsession

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I ran into something similar and while its not the fastest solution, I bought some 5/8" drill collars/drill stops and use those. I have thought about welding a lever to the allen set screw, but for now I just have cheap allen keys siliconed into the set screws.
 
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Kaizen

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Just heard from jimbo’s garage who has some and the same table material as me. Turns out he will be making them for sale in his website. The ones he was using were prototypes.


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icecactus

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Pretty sure the Fireball stops are actually Buildpro stops. Which are for a 5/8" hole. Even in my buildpro table, the stops will rock a smidge. Certiflat USED to use 5/8" holes. My first table I got from them was 5/8. Now they use 16mm hole which is slightly larger then 5/8". Combine the thin top with a slightly larger hole and you are going to have some rock.

In theory they should all rock/tilt the same amount so they could still be used effectively for most purposes.
 
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Kaizen

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Pretty sure the Fireball stops are actually Buildpro stops. Which are for a 5/8" hole. Even in my buildpro table, the stops will rock a smidge. Certiflat USED to use 5/8" holes. My first table I got from them was 5/8. Now they use 16mm hole which is slightly larger then 5/8". Combine the thin top with a slightly larger hole and you are going to have some rock.



In theory they should all rock/tilt the same amount so they could still be used effectively for most purposes.



This is not usable due to too much movement. Maybe I will get some 15mm stock and make something. Certiflat said not any time soon for this item. Still developing I guess


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icecactus

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This is not usable due to too much movement. Maybe I will get some 15mm stock and make something. Certiflat said not any time soon for this item. Still developing I guess


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https://genuinemetalworks.com/products/stainless-steel-303-fixture-table-stops

You can try the stops from the link above. They are 16mm. I have not tried them so I cant comment on how well they will work, but they are def a few thousands larger then the buildpros.

I do have some of their squares and I am very happy with them.
 
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Kaizen

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