Chain binders

[ATC]

I haul a lot of vehicles (trucks), my skid steer & attachments, and here lately, logs.

I've always used lever-style binders (boomers), and I've recently picked up a couple ratcheting binders. HF and Northern Tool specials. HF actually had the better quality lever-style binders vs. the other stores in town where I could lay hands on them before buying. Ratcheting ones are from NT, I think.

I like the idea of the ratcheting binders, and they work well...but using them is time consuming and can really be a PITA if you run out of thread and have to readjust them. Mine are just starting to get hard to use (selector lever)...I need to lube them some more.

Anyways, I've been eyeing the Speedbinders lately. They are expensive, but look like an awesome solution for speed, strength, and of course, made in the USA.

Anyone have or used them? How about a source for USA lever-style binders (or brand names)? Short of me Googling and searching every rigging company that comes up. I think I'm done with the ratcheting ones...might just save them for special occasions.

 

[cvairwerks]

Check out Dirt Monkey’s youtube channel. He uses them quite a bit I think. Know I’ve seen them there before.

 

[ATC]

Check out Dirt Monkey’s youtube channel. He uses them quite a bit I think. Know I’ve seen them there before.

Yeah, Dirt Perfect also uses them, and is where I first saw them. Looks like the couple places I've checked are at least 30 days out on shipping...

 

[Bert_]

I've used ratcheting binders, not a big fan. Lever binders are quick and simple. I carry a short piece of 1 1/2" emt that fits over the binder handle. Makes it easier to get the chain tight without a lot of effort

 

[AA/FC]

As a former lowboy driver / equipment hauler I can tell you that ratchet binders are a pain in the *** to use and maintain but they absolutely secure the load much better than lever style binders..... and they're safer, too. The need to be lubed constantly, which makes them very messy to handle. Gloves are a must. Once you understand that they need to be "unscrewed" far enough when unloading a piece of equipment, so that when you go to load you next piece of equipment you wont run out of thread, they become easier to use. It ***** when you're in a hurry to unload, but take your time when unloading to unscrew the binder much farther then you need to just get the chain unhooked. This will prevent running out of thread when loading next time. Also, once they're "broke-in" and the threads move freely when lubed up they become much easier to use. It's like breaking in a new pair of work boots. Once they're broke-in, you will love them.

• Keep them lubed up
• Wear gloves
• Unscrew them much father than necessary to just get the chain unhooked while unloading
• When unloading (unscrewing) twist the body of the binder with one hand, while operating the binder handle with the other hand.
• While one hand is going in one direction, the other hand is going in the other direction. This speeds up the unscrewing process by about double.

Ratcheting binders **** to use but their benefits outweigh their downsides..... in my opinion. If you look at any real equipment hauler, they all use ratchet binders. Very few lever binders can be found on any real lowboy. (maybe a few for securing small items with small chains) If you're just a private guy hauling your own stuff use whatever fits your needs, or makes you happy.

 

[Sumboodie]

Lot of companies ban use of over center binders. Too many injuries and if the chain loosens a bit, the binder pops open.
OSHA frowns against them too.
Rare I see them used anymore and I work in one of the state's largest trucking yards.

If you chain something and the binder is in an awkward spot, good luck with an over center binder.

 

[ATC]

• Keep them lubed up (I keep the threads lubed, but need to work on the pawl)
• Wear gloves (I do)
• Unscrew them much father than necessary to just get the chain unhooked while unloading (I do)
• When unloading (unscrewing) twist the body of the binder with one hand, while operating the binder handle with the other hand. (I do)
• While one hand is going in one direction, the other hand is going in the other direction. This speeds up the unscrewing process by about double. (I do)

Thanks for the reply

 

[ATC]

Lot of companies ban use of over center binders. Too many injuries and if the chain loosens a bit, the binder pops open.
OSHA frowns against them too.
Rare I see them used anymore and I work in one of the state's largest trucking yards.

If you chain something and the binder is in an awkward spot, good luck with an over center binder.

Luckily I don't have a company over me or OSHA to worry about. Just me hauling my personal stuff. I've never had an issue with the levers in the 15-ish years I've been using them. I do understand the dangers, and I do wrap the excess chain around the handles. Getting them tight the first time lessens the chance of anything loosening up during the trip though.
The ratchet style are an awesome option...I just wish they worked better from a user standpoint.

I've used ratcheting binders, not a big fan. Lever binders are quick and simple. I carry a short piece of 1 1/2" emt that fits over the binder handle. Makes it easier to get the chain tight without a lot of effort

I have a piece of the frame from a trampoline...one of the straight sections of leg about 36-40" long. Works perfect

 

[Robinson1]

The handful of times I've used lever style binders I hated them. Their limited amount of travel make it an absolute pain when at awkward angles. Its not always possible to get enough slack out of the chain to make them work correctly. Couple that with the fact I'm almost always working alone when chaining down equipment. An extra set of hands to hold the chain would make the process easier.. Too little tension they pop open. Too much tension and they are down right dangerous to release.

Ratchet binders are the only ONLY way to go in my opinion. Just spray them down with WD40 a few times a year and keep a pair of gloves in your tow vehicle. They can be temperamental but they work way better than lever style.

 

[Bert_]

I can tell you that ratchet binders are a pain in the *** to use and maintain but they absolutely secure the load much better than lever style binders.

I would agree with this for the most part, the racheting binders probably are "better".

The lever binders have always worked well enough for me that I don't want to deal with the pain in the *** part. I'm not hauling heavy equipment though, heaviest thing is 12,000 lbs

For what I'm doing I like the lever binders better

 

[tjansson]

I use the ratchet binders for my occasional equipment and log hauling. I only use 2 at a time, so that saves time over 4. If you need to use 4 to be legal then there's ways to do that too and only have to tighten 2 binders. I find I can set the pawl in the middle then use both hands to loosen/tighten fairly quickly.

 

[BukitCase]

I use ALL the tricks listed by AA/FC, plus another - if you keep at least a light coating of grease on the threads, the pawl has enough resistance that you can lengthen OR shorten (before hooking up, that is) by just grabbing one hook in each hand, holding at arms length (you'll find out WHY the first time you DON'T) and letting the handle's inertia either lengthen OR shorten by the direction you swing the handle. This does take a bit of coordination -

That's by far the fastest way I've found to "preset" BEFORE hookup. It also makes it quick to STORE the binders with all threads covered, if you care.

Can't remember the last time I used the over center ones - Oh wait, it was just BEFORE I bought the first pair of ratchets ... Steve

 

[ATC]

by just grabbing one hook in each hand, holding at arms length (you'll find out WHY the first time you DON'T) and letting the handle's inertia either lengthen OR shorten by the direction you swing the handle. This does take a bit of coordination

Probably a few people out there wishing for their two front teeth for Christmas...

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

I have a few of the lever binders and can honestly say I have only used them once.
Ratcheting ones used consistently to haul equipment.

Learning to extend them before hooking up saves a lot of aggravation.

I have to run mine in for storage in my trailer, so each time they are pulled out to use extending them is the key.
Have some open chain spray lube I hit them with.

 

[thr3squared]

Probably a few people out there wishing for their two front teeth for Christmas...

That was my immediate thought

 

[Hiball]

I’ll Use lever style load binders on occasion for small items. Whenever I’m hauling something substantial I grab my Quickbinder’s, it allows for quickly running slack prior to final tightening.

 

[AA/FC]

I would agree with this for the most part, the racheting binders probably are "better".

The lever binders have always worked well enough for me that I don't want to deal with the pain in the *** part. I'm not hauling heavy equipment though, heaviest thing is 12,000 lbs

For what I'm doing I like the lever binders better

If you're not hauling commercial equipment everyday then yeah, just use whatever works best for you.

Side story:
Many years ago back when I was hauling forklifts everyday, that company had mostly lever binders on most of their trucks so I had to use what they had. One morning I was securing a full load of forklifts to my trailer using lever binders.... Instead of a piece of pipe, we actually had the proper lever binder bar designed for closing binders. Well, I always like my chains banjo tight so I'm always going for that "extra" link..... as I was pulling on that bar, one of the "peened ends" on the binder snapped off (see picture below) and shot across the parking lot and hit the side of a service van. Sounded like a gunshot! It damn near hit me in the stomach. When I found the piece that broke off, and inspected the broken binder, I was amazed how poorly lever binders are made in that area. Ratchet binders don't have this weak link... Plus, I can get rubber tired machines MUCH tighter with ratchet binders than I ever can with lever binders.


Where the "eyelet" passes through the binder clevis, it gets "peened" on the other side. This allows the eyelet to freely rotate in the binder clevis.

 

[WWheeler]

lol, Bet you were glad it was a "service van" and not the boss' car.

 

[AA/FC]

lol, Bet you were glad it was a "service van" and not the boss' car.

Well, this happened at a customers location so the "boss' car" on that property would have also been known as "a damn good customer". lololol. Yes, that day could've turned out much worse than it did.

 

[cherrybomb]

Chain,tie down points on trailer and equipment, and which ever binder you use are inherently dangerous.The pipe on the snap over binder can be real dangerous. If at all possible use a well lubed ratchet binder.Yes a bit slower,but safety is also important.

 

[zendriver]

hated using ratchets but they adjust easier and safer.

speedbinders just look like a bunch of extra work to do less work.

 

[Bert_]

Chain,tie down points on trailer and equipment, and which ever binder you use are inherently dangerous.The pipe on the snap over binder can be real dangerous. If at all possible use a well lubed ratchet binder.Yes a bit slower,but safety is also important.

I would say the pipe makes it safer. You have a lot more control with a nice long lever vs. the short handle that you have to pull with much more effort.

 

[AA/FC]

I would say the pipe makes it safer. You have a lot more control with a nice long lever vs. the short handle that you have to pull with much more effort.

A binder pipe is the MOST dangerous part about securing any load. The problem is, once the binder lever "snaps" down into place..... or at least FEELS like it snaps into place... some people take their hand off the pipe while it's still slipped over the binder lever. (to wrap up excess chain, etc..) This is VERY dangerous because the lever can suddenly snap back open and the attached pipe now becomes a deadly weapon when it hits that person square in the head. This has happened many times, to a lot of people over the years. The pipe is fine if you NEVER take your hand off it the entire time it is slipped over the binder handle.

 

[matt_i]

I'm not sure if this style of binder still has the ratchet backup or it relies fully on the worm gear...I would be worried down the road about a mechanism you can't see...if the worm (meaning the hex drive) ever gets stripped or popped out of the case and there's no ratchet backup...it will self-loosen as you drive. Like anything the metallurgy and manufacture is more important when the mechanism gets more complex.

I can see with logs that it could be a pain as they bend and tighten together where you'd need a lot of extra takeup and that style could be quite handy. Most everything I've trucked requiring chain tie-downs was solid metallic material or with rubber tires and didn't require a lot of takeup.

 

[Bert_]

A binder pipe is the MOST dangerous part about securing any load. The problem is, once the binder lever "snaps" down into place..... or at least FEELS like it snaps into place... some people take their hand off the pipe while it's still slipped over the binder lever. (to wrap up excess chain, etc..) This is VERY dangerous because the lever can suddenly snap back open and the attached pipe now becomes a deadly weapon when it hits that person square in the head. This has happened many times, to a lot of people over the years. The pipe is fine if you NEVER take your hand off it the entire time it is slipped over the binder handle.

Why would anyone leave a pipe on the handle once it's latched? I've always pulled it off and laid it on the trailer or tossed it over by the next binder

 

[ATC]

A binder pipe is the MOST dangerous part about securing any load. The problem is, once the binder lever "snaps" down into place..... or at least FEELS like it snaps into place... some people take their hand off the pipe while it's still slipped over the binder lever. (to wrap up excess chain, etc..) This is VERY dangerous because the lever can suddenly snap back open and the attached pipe now becomes a deadly weapon when it hits that person square in the head. This has happened many times, to a lot of people over the years. The pipe is fine if you NEVER take your hand off it the entire time it is slipped over the binder handle.

I feel like I have an above average level of common sense, and understanding of physics.

Once the lever snaps down into place, the pipe comes off and I smack the lever of the binder to make sure it's seated. It's easy for someone in a rush, or someone lacking a few screws upstairs to snap the lever down while a piece of the chain is caught between the handle and the body, not allowing the handle to close properly. As you said, if they are leaving the pipe on the handle, maybe it is causing the handle not to close all the way, creating the dangerous situation in the first place.

Again, 15+ years of using them, and I have never had an issue. No close calls, no unexpected releases, no loosening up....nothing.
Not 'professionally' mind you, but enough.

The lever style binders are not dangerous. The users are.

 

[ATC]

I'm not sure if this style of binder still has the ratchet backup or it relies fully on the worm gear...I would be worried down the road about a mechanism you can't see...if the worm (meaning the hex drive) ever gets stripped or popped out of the case and there's no ratchet backup...it will self-loosen as you drive. Like anything the metallurgy and manufacture is more important when the mechanism gets more complex.

I can see with logs that it could be a pain as they bend and tighten together where you'd need a lot of extra takeup and that style could be quite handy. Most everything I've trucked requiring chain tie-downs was solid metallic material or with rubber tires and didn't require a lot of takeup.

Looks similar to a Crescent wrench worm gear that gets driven by the bolt.

Still trying to decide between these and some plain ol' levers...

 

[geartow]

If you are using a cheater pipe to make a snap binder tighter you are over working its design from the start.

 

[Bert_]

If you are using a cheater pipe to make a snap binder tighter you are over working its design from the start.

The cheater is just to reduce the amount of effort.

 

[metlmunchr]

The biggest problem with over center binders is that you often find one link is too loose and the next link is too tight. Particularly true with any load that's not on tires or otherwise flexible.

Crosby is pretty much the accepted standard for quality in rigging equipment. If you look at Crosby's site, they sell over center, standard ratchet type, and speedbinder type binders. Anyone even vaguely familiar with manufacturing can easily see the over center binder is the simplest, and therefore should be the cheapest of the 3 types. Yet, for equal load rating, the over center type is the most expensive. When my dad switched from over center to ratchet type 40+ years ago in his crane and rigging business, the ratchet type binders cost twice as much as over center. The only reason the over center is now the most expensive has to be low demand and attendant low production volume. Were it not for the fact that the trucking industry is so resistant to change, the over center type would likely fade from production.

That said, the speedbinder is the cheapest of the three while easily being the most complicated. The design is based on a manual slack adjuster for cam type air brakes as used on heavy trucks. The design is proven over 60+ years and all the equipment is in place to produce in high volumes. The speedbinder mechanism might require a material change in a few parts for added strength, but even that is doubtful when you look at the loads air brake chambers are capable of applying to slacks and the number of cycles they have to endure without fatigue failure.

If I was outfitting a trailer today with a full complement of binders, I'd buy 2 or 3 ratchet type for those cases where you can't get the handle against something solid, and the rest would be speedbinders. One of the biggest advantages to the speedbinder is the simplicity of collapsing it when not in use so the threads are protected from dirt and rust.

Anyone who says over center binders aren't dangerous just hasn't used them enough to get that inevitable surprise that's gonna come one day. Yeah, they're fairly safe if you always treat them like a loaded gun, but why do that when there are alternatives available for less money that present no danger to the user.

 

[AA/FC]

Why would anyone leave a pipe on the handle once it's latched? I've always pulled it off and laid it on the trailer or tossed it over by the next binder

no idea.... you'd have to ask the people who leave it on the handle after it's latched.

 

[zendriver]

A binder pipe is the MOST dangerous part about securing any load. The problem is, once the binder lever "snaps" down into place..... or at least FEELS like it snaps into place... some people take their hand off the pipe while it's still slipped over the binder lever. (to wrap up excess chain, etc..) This is VERY dangerous because the lever can suddenly snap back open and the attached pipe now becomes a deadly weapon when it hits that person square in the head. This has happened many times, to a lot of people over the years. The pipe is fine if you NEVER take your hand off it the entire time it is slipped over the binder handle.

That is dangerous, because that not how the tool is supposed to be used.

 

[ATC]

The biggest problem with over center binders is that you often find one link is too loose and the next link is too tight. Particularly true with any load that's not on tires or otherwise flexible.

Crosby is pretty much the accepted standard for quality in rigging equipment. If you look at Crosby's site, they sell over center, standard ratchet type, and speedbinder type binders. Anyone even vaguely familiar with manufacturing can easily see the over center binder is the simplest, and therefore should be the cheapest of the 3 types. Yet, for equal load rating, the over center type is the most expensive. When my dad switched from over center to ratchet type 40+ years ago in his crane and rigging business, the ratchet type binders cost twice as much as over center. The only reason the over center is now the most expensive has to be low demand and attendant low production volume. Were it not for the fact that the trucking industry is so resistant to change, the over center type would likely fade from production.

That said, the speedbinder is the cheapest of the three while easily being the most complicated. The design is based on a manual slack adjuster for cam type air brakes as used on heavy trucks. The design is proven over 60+ years and all the equipment is in place to produce in high volumes. The speedbinder mechanism might require a material change in a few parts for added strength, but even that is doubtful when you look at the loads air brake chambers are capable of applying to slacks and the number of cycles they have to endure without fatigue failure.

If I was outfitting a trailer today with a full complement of binders, I'd buy 2 or 3 ratchet type for those cases where you can't get the handle against something solid, and the rest would be speedbinders. One of the biggest advantages to the speedbinder is the simplicity of collapsing it when not in use so the threads are protected from dirt and rust.

Anyone who says over center binders aren't dangerous just hasn't used them enough to get that inevitable surprise that's gonna come one day. Yeah, they're fairly safe if you always treat them like a loaded gun, but why do that when there are alternatives available for less money that present no danger to the user.

Thanks for your reply. I just have to wonder where you are getting your pricing from? A CM (USA) lever binder is about $52 (found on different site than below). A CM ratchet binder is about $100 (Crosby about $190), and a Speedbinder is $130. I'm looking at the 5/16 - 3/8 size.

 

[ATC]

If you are using a cheater pipe to make a snap binder tighter you are over working its design from the start.

I don't think so. Jumping up and down on a 4-foot pipe on one...? That, would be overworking its design.

Also, no one is getting a lever binder properly tight just using their hands on the 12" handle. Maybe this is why they pop loose on some people...

The slew of companies making cheater bars specifically for lever binders should clue one in that they are a requirement. A couple state that they are not for this use, but that is just their lawyers talking. If they weren't actually made for that, then the companies wouldn't make the end of the bar specifically made to fit a binder handle.

 

[Ryan_340]

There not cheap, but our flatbed haulers at work use a ratchet style that looks like a come-along. The brand is Ancra EZ binder

 

[purplezr2]

Those speedbinders look like a slack adjuster with a piece of threaded pipe in the middle.

 

[jonshonda]

We have one for our skid steer, and I agree needs lube often. I always extend out as far as possible before hooking the chain as well. When you get it right, it works great!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Yeah, Dirt Perfect also uses them, and is where I first saw them. Looks like the couple places I've checked are at least 30 days out on shipping...

I was going to mention DP using them but you already know. However, for those that don't know about them, here's Kleeman (works for DP) discussing them.

I really didn't need any for what I do but I have a pair of ratchet style binders. . . I found one in the middle of US 30 and the other off in the berm.

 

[ATC]

Well, I couldn't bring myself to spend the coin on the Speedbinders...not to mention, no availability until July sometime. Not that I'm in a hurry. But I came to my senses and decided that spending $500+ on something I don't "need" for my occasional weekend hauling needs is just not something I'm comfortable with spending right now given the state the country is in. I still have a concrete pad and a carport/garage planned for this year too...

So I found some CM (USA) forged lever binders for $43/ea and ordered 4 of them along with some more stake pocket D-rings.

Thanks to everyone who replied. I did take everything y'all said into consideration. I'll post some pics when they come in.