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Chainsaw blade recommendations

jrsavoie

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Jun 4, 2013
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1,468
Location
North east Illinois
I've had 5 chainsaws in the past 50 years.
I bought all my blades and had them sharpened at 3 local stores. The last store I used, closed this year.
They all carried quality blades, so I've never really became a blade connoisseur. I just went and bought what they had.

Can anyone help me pick out a couple chains? Preferably made in the USA.

DeWalt dccs670b chainsaw 16", dewalt dw01dt616t - blade

One carbide and one or two regular.

I'd just as soon order off Amazon or anyplace for comparable price and speed of delivery.

Anything here?

Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=oregon+r56&adgrpid=52858879821&hvadid=634019035806&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1016367&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=2331842634595694857&hvtargid=kwd-296216527370&hydadcr=20381_13411395&tag=hydsma-20&ref=pd_sl_2i84jt8hzq_b

amazon.com, DeWalt dccs670b chainsaw 16" carbide blade - Google Search
 
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Pinemarten

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Jan 23, 2023
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333
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Washington
I like Stihl or Oregon chains. COE varies, some Stihl chains are German, some Swiss. Measure your chain pitch between rivets. Typically it will be 5/16 or 3/8" Count the number of drive links and get a chain that matches.

Buy a couple round files and file your chain if it needs touching up. Like many things, a couple strokes with a file will sharpen up a chain that is starting to dull. If you keep cutting (gnawing) wood 'till the chips turn into dust, you will have to file a lot to get the cutters sharp again.
 
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jrsavoie

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Joined
Jun 4, 2013
Messages
1,468
Location
North east Illinois
I like Stihl or Oregon chains. COE varies, some Stihl chains are German, some Swiss. Measure your chain pitch between rivets. Typically it will be 5/16 or 3/8" Count the number of drive links and get a chain that matches.

Buy a couple round files and file your chain if it needs touching up. Like many things, a couple strokes with a file will sharpen up a chain that is starting to dull. If you keep cutting (gnawing) wood 'till the chips turn into dust, you will have to file a lot to get the cutters sharp again.
No time for that. I'll have to post on Facebook and see if there's another store close by that has good stuff

Thanks
 

lolaetype

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Dec 11, 2019
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North Western Arkansas
No time for that. I'll have to post on Facebook and see if there's another store close by that has good stuff
You can buy Oregon chains at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, and virtually any farm and ranch store. How quickly do you need a new chain? A trip to the local hardware store quick or Enterprise transporter quick? :cool:
 

MongoTA

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Joined
Mar 10, 2018
Messages
1,003
Location
CT
I've had 5 chainsaws in the past 50 years.
I bought all my blades and had them sharpened at 3 local stores. The last store I used, closed this year.
They all carried quality blades, so I've never really became a blade connoisseur. I just went and bought what they had.

Can anyone help me pick out a couple chains? Preferably made in the USA.

DeWalt dccs670b chainsaw 16"

One carbide and one or two regular.

I'd just as soon order off Amazon or anyplace for comparable price and speed of delivery.

Anything here?

Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=oregon+r56&adgrpid=52858879821&hvadid=634019035806&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1016367&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=2331842634595694857&hvtargid=kwd-296216527370&hydadcr=20381_13411395&tag=hydsma-20&ref=pd_sl_2i84jt8hzq_b

amazon.com, DeWalt dccs670b chainsaw 16" carbide blade - Google Search
I use the Oregon AdvanceCut R56 loops on my DW670 chainsaw. The first hit on your amazon link.
I don't have any carbide loops. That saw takes a 3/8", .043, 56 drive link loop. This looks like it might work, but verify first: Carbide loop for DW670
 

Terra Nova

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Joined
Feb 26, 2012
Messages
4,200
Location
Michigan
It's Oregon chain but I have no experience with it. As mentioned I use LPX chain linked and have good luck with it. Rereading your post, a DeWalt dccs670b likely needs something less aggressive though. Out of curiosity why do you want carbide chain? Demo work?

If you're in a time crunch just head to any local big box store or outdoor power equipment dealer and pick up what fits.
 

Bert_

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Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,729
Location
NW Iowa
I have several chains. Ones I've bought new have been Oregon, because it's what's easily available. I'm hard pressed to notice any different for my non professional use.

I 100% agree with getting some round files for your chain. You can sharpen several chains in the time it takes to drive and have someone else do it.
 
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jrsavoie

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Jun 4, 2013
Messages
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Location
North east Illinois
You can buy Oregon chains at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, and virtually any farm and ranch store. How quickly do you need a new chain? A trip to the local hardware store quick or Enterprise transporter quick? :cool:
It's only a 50 mile round trip now that the local hardware store closed. When I was 14 or 15, we used to cut and sell wood by the pickup load, delivered and stacked.
I haven't needed a real saw in a while.
Back then we touched up our chains.

I don't have many good hours in a day. So a lot of things don't get done. Like touching up a chain or sharpening drill bits.
 
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jrsavoie

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Jun 4, 2013
Messages
1,468
Location
North east Illinois
I have several chains. Ones I've bought new have been Oregon, because it's what's easily available. I'm hard pressed to notice any different for my non professional use.

I 100% agree with getting some round files for your chain. You can sharpen several chains in the time it takes to drive and have someone else do it.
I have plenty of files.
Last saw I had 5 or 6 chains, I'd just swap them out. And drop them at the hardware store when I went.
 
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jrsavoie

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Messages
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Location
North east Illinois
It's Oregon chain but I have no experience with it. As mentioned I use LPX chain linked and have good luck with it. Rereading your post, a DeWalt dccs670b likely needs something less aggressive though. Out of curiosity why do you want carbide chain? Demo work?

If you're in a time crunch just head to any local big box store or outdoor power equipment dealer and pick up what fits.
We have a mulberry tree and are always cutting mulberries out of the other 1500 trees.
I cut them down to the dirt and throw Tordon on them.
Carbide holds up better to dirt. I also have a stump or 4 to dig out. And I use them to cut the roots.
If I can't get somebody to drop the 100 year old ash trees for a decent price, I'll be buying or borrowing a real saw.

Several years ago, we dropped, cut and burned, 4 in a day.

They're far enough from everything that there's nothing they can hit.
I'm not paying $1200 to have a tree dropped when I can buy a saw and do it myself.
I think a couple friends still have their saws, hopefully still in running order.
If not I've seen them on marketplace for a decent price and I can sell it after the tree is burnt up.
 
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PCustoms

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VT
No offense, but calling it a blade irritates me and doesn't exactly inspire confidence that someone should be felling trees.


Cutting in dirt will also trash your bar, carbide chain or not. Not generally advisable.

As far as chains, I've been running Oregon. A brand cheaper then the Stihl and if I touch a rock seems to take the hit better. I touch up with the appropriate file after a tank or two and typically 1 new chain a year. I've got several for the old saw that could use a pro sharpen and I'd get some life, but haven't looked for a service.

I just realized the new saw is going on a year with the stock low kickback chain, I hould swap in the Oregon this weekend and buck some logs.
 

P0234

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Aug 6, 2012
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NoVA
Oregon makes nice chains, use their guides to pick one that works for your needs.

Stihl/Pferd make excellent sharpeners that take less than 5 minutes between tanks of fuel. And if you think you don’t have time for that, you must have lots of time to waste with a less than sharp chain. I can make it through about two tanks of gas before I notice the chain is slowing me down.
 

PCustoms

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VT
I can make it through about two tanks of gas before I notice the chain is slowing me down.
I love felling in the snow, logs stay cleaner and chain lasts longer. If I wait until summer to buck there's always dirt somewhere from skidding or rain splash.

A few years back dad and I were pulling firewood off of a "slash" pile (less then a truckload they left in the woods) and we tried cutting a maple that ate chains. Not sure if it was rock hard from aging or if it had a lot of minerals, but when the dull chain count was higher then the rounds cut we gave up.
 

P0234

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NoVA
I love felling in the snow, logs stay cleaner and chain lasts longer. If I wait until summer to buck there's always dirt somewhere from skidding or rain splash.

A few years back dad and I were pulling firewood off of a "slash" pile (less then a truckload they left in the woods) and we tried cutting a maple that ate chains. Not sure if it was rock hard from aging or if it had a lot of minerals, but when the dull chain count was higher then the rounds cut we gave up.
Yeah it’s crazy how some wood just destroys chains. Was talking to my tree guy about it, he said at times there is no rhyme or reason. I had a couple trees this year that had to be borderline petrified.
 
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jrsavoie

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Jun 4, 2013
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Location
North east Illinois
No offense, but calling it a blade irritates me and doesn't exactly inspire confidence that someone should be felling trees.


Cutting in dirt will also trash your bar, carbide chain or not. Not generally advisable.

As far as chains, I've been running Oregon. A brand cheaper then the Stihl and if I touch a rock seems to take the hit better. I touch up with the appropriate file after a tank or two and typically 1 new chain a year. I've got several for the old saw that could use a pro sharpen and I'd get some life, but haven't looked for a service.

I just realized the new saw is going on a year with the stock low kickback chain, I hould swap in the Oregon this weekend and buck some logs.
How would you suggest I cut roots when digging a stump, without taking all day and staying out of the dirt?

I used to have a cheap Wild Thing to use for abusive stuff. Those, actually weren't bad little saws. Mine lasted for way over a decade.

Apparently I'm not the only one that calls it a chain saw blade. I even saw a chain saw blade sharpener for sale.

 
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Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
You will never save more time than when you take the time to sharpen with every tank a fuel. It only takes a few minutes to hit each tooth with a file twice or three times.

I second the RS yellow stihl chain. Carlton a close second. Not a fan of oregon.

Also, please don't cut down the ash trees(widowmakers) They have been killing and maiming people cutting them down when a dead branch falls from up high and takes them out.

A good friend two years ago was cutting them out an while cutting the 16th one, one that looked really solid compared to some, a branch fell out and literally tore off the left half of his face and cracked his skull. Luckily he was working with his neighbor that called in a lifeline flight and got him to surgery quickly. Its hard to tell with how good of job they did but he wasn't making any money for 6 months let alone the hospital bills. He was no dummy and has been logging for his saw mill for 30 years.

We push them over with an excavator now.
 

jonesg

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finn

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The UP, God's country
How would you suggest I cut roots when digging a stump, without taking all day and staying out of the dirt?

I used to have a cheap Wild Thing to use for abusive stuff. Those, actually weren't bad little saws. Mine lasted for way over a decade.

Apparently I'm not the only one that calls it a chain saw blade. I even saw a chain saw blade sharpener for sale.

Mini excavator works for me.

plus, it’s fun then.
 

finn

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it takes longer to swap a chain out than sharpen the cutters, I use an elec diamond sharpener, makes very quick work or the teeth.
A round file for in the field touch ups, its very quick once you get the rythm going.

I bought a bench mounted electric sharpener from Northern tool ten or 15 years ago, when the local saw shop priced themselves out of sharpening my chains. Once it’s set up, it only takes a few minutes per chain…. Quicker than driving to the saw shop, dropping off the chains, then picking them up two days later.

Filing is ok for touch up, but takes me longer.

Baileys Carlton chains are my go to for fresh chains.
 

johninct

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Dec 21, 2010
Messages
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It's only a 50 mile round trip now that the local hardware store closed. When I was 14 or 15, we used to cut and sell wood by the pickup load, delivers and stacked.
I haven't needed a real saw in a while.
Back then we touched up our chains.

I don't have many good hours in a day. So a lot of things don't get done. Like touching up a chain or sharpening drill bits.
I find that it is a waste of my time to use a chain that is not sharp. The 10-15 minutes required to fill gas+ oil and then sharpen the chain on the bar to me is always worth it.
 

Davefr

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OR
No time for that. I'll have to post on Facebook and see if there's another store close by that has good stuff

Thanks
The time you spend touching up your chains pays dividends. Sharper chains = less cutting time and easier on your saws and you.
 

jonesg

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northern Maine/
The time you spend touching up your chains pays dividends. Sharper chains = less cutting time and easier on your saws and you.
true, I can feel the chain pulling itself through the wood when sharp. No need to press down.
I'm in northern Maine, timber is the main industry, I talked to the owner of a lumberjack store, he says the chainsaw guys touch their chains up all day. They do some select hardwood culling where they can't get the big snipper machines in so chainsaws still see a fair amount of use.
 

P0234

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If you can use a fingernail clipper, you can use one of these, they work great and zero skill involved.

 
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jrsavoie

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North east Illinois
I bought a bench mounted electric sharpener from Northern tool ten or 15 years ago, when the local saw shop priced themselves out of sharpening my chains. Once it’s set up, it only takes a few minutes per chain…. Quicker than driving to the saw shop, dropping off the chains, then picking them up two days later.

Filing is ok for touch up, but takes me longer.

Baileys Carlton chains are my go to for fresh chains.
Way back when, we had a 12 volt version. No clue what happened to it
 
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jrsavoie

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North east Illinois
Mini excavator works for me.

plus, it’s fun then.
I use the backhoe, but still have to cut roots.

It's not that huge of a backhoe.

All the stumps I can remember digging out, were over 100" circumstances.
One was 46" diameter.
They were all planted the same time. When my Dad was 9 years old.

I wish I had a mini. Might buy one yet. But I doubt it. That and a JLG
 
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jrsavoie

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North east Illinois
You can buy Oregon chains at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, and virtually any farm and ranch store. How quickly do you need a new chain? A trip to the local hardware store quick or Enterprise transporter quick? :cool:
The chain is still working.

I think I actually bought at least one extra chain a few years ago, but gave it away with the Wild Thing saws.

The nearest store is about 25 miles away. But I heard yesterday a local lawn mower shop sells and sharpens chains.
 
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jrsavoie

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Jun 4, 2013
Messages
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Location
North east Illinois
You will never save more time than when you take the time to sharpen with every tank a fuel. It only takes a few minutes to hit each tooth with a file twice or three times.

I second the RS yellow stihl chain. Carlton a close second. Not a fan of oregon.

Also, please don't cut down the ash trees(widowmakers) They have been killing and maiming people cutting them down when a dead branch falls from up high and takes them out.

A good friend two years ago was cutting them out an while cutting the 16th one, one that looked really solid compared to some, a branch fell out and literally tore off the left half of his face and cracked his skull. Luckily he was working with his neighbor that called in a lifeline flight and got him to surgery quickly. Its hard to tell with how good of job they did but he wasn't making any money for 6 months let alone the hospital bills. He was no dummy and has been logging for his saw mill for 30 years.

We push them over with an excavator now.
Definitely have to watch for the dead branches.

Hiring an excavator to toppled them sounds price comparative to what I was priced, just to drop them.

And they could rip out the stump. Stumps take me quite a bit of time with the old backhoe.
 

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
Definitely have to watch for the dead branches.

Hiring an excavator to toppled them sounds price comparative to what I was priced, just to drop them.

And they could rip out the stump. Stumps take me quite a bit of time with the old backhoe.
Almost makes me cry on how many dead ashes are in the woods now when I walk in them.
 
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jrsavoie

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Almost makes me cry on how many dead ashes are in the woods now when I walk in them.
Yep. We've lost at least 8 bigguns & have 4 more that don't know they're dead yet.

We only have 4 bigguns left.
We give them the bug killer every year. Have a couple with 14" trunks that are infected, but haven't cut them yet.

Not sure what to replace them with.
 
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