When I can remember to do it, I am getting a 5/32" diamond burr to replace the grinding stone. The way I do it, I hardly take off any material. The file may be the best way to do it but a lot of times I need it fast rather than perfect. Someone (not naming any me) tends to stab me when I use rat tail files to sharpen anything, and although I have (and love) the PowerSharp on-bar sharpener, my spare chain doesn't use that sharpening method.
Are either of them or the HF sharpener (or the Oregon) the textbook right way to file your saw? No. It gets wood cut faster and reduces downtime, increases safety, and gives you options.
I don't do the dremel sharpener exactly like they tell you in the video. If you've used one of the pointy style hones on a serrated knife, your sharpening action is straight in and out, but angled so the knife's blade angle is maintained. That's the best way I can describe it. Even if it's not the most bestest-est, I see a drastically noticeable difference cutting after sharpening.
I'm neither a pro logger or a pro saw sharpener.
by no means was i saying that powered sharpeners do not work to a acceptable level, they definitely do work. they are designed to make sharpening faster, and easier for people that dont do it on a regular basis. it takes lots of practice to get it just right with a free hand file, but you also get a superior cut with a file sharpened chain. with the rakers at the right height, you can get a chainsaw to completely feed itself, and require very little to zero pressure and the saw will pull itself through the cut.
you would have to do a fairly horrid job sharpening to not see a marked improvement in cutting over a dull chain. but doing a so so job, whether with a file, or a powered sharpener can make a chain less safe than it was dull. getting the depth gauge(raker) height is important, and you should get a gauge to show where it needs to be filed down to. the angle of your cutting teeth are just as important, as well as the edge profile made while sharpening. also, using a file can be just as fast as powered sharpeners once you get the hang of it, it takes just a couple strokes per tooth, doing all on one side, then flipping and doing all the other side. keep the bar outta the dirt, and brush clumps of dirt off any wood you are cutting, and you will go many times longer without sharpening.
im not a pro logger or a pro sharpener by any means, but i did work for a worldwide tree service company for some years, and learned to sharpen a chain fairly well, after much trial and error, and instruction. both methods work acceptably, neither is right or wrong, only personal preference and what works best for your level of experience.
