Chainsaw Chain Repair Tool/Process!

[pauls_workshop]

Hey guys, thought I'd ask a question or two on a more rare topic. I have a few chainsaw chains needing just one or a few links replaced. I want to do this myself but have never done it before. I got a few replacement links that come with rivets for the job. It is very important this be done well as you don't want a chainsaw chain to ever come apart on you.

Question is what tool is best to break up the links on the chain and how to do it best (process)? Also, what is best process to put in the new ones. I'm assuming you just pound the rivets flat when assembled with a ball peen or is there a better way? Thanks - Paul

 

[gungatim]

I don't know about chainsaws so sub'd to learn, but for motorcycle chains, there is a tool for pressing the pins out and another for peening the rivets. not sure if it would work on the small chainsaw chain though.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035U9SGO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[gungatim]

well looks like they make a specific "spinner" for chainsaw chains, not sure how it works though.

http://www.harborfreight.com/chain-saw-chain-breaker-spinner-99835.html

 

[LB-1911]

Hey guys, thought I'd ask a question or two on a more rare topic. I have a few chainsaw chains needing just one or a few links replaced. I want to do this myself but have never done it before. I got a few replacement links that come with rivets for the job. It is very important this be done well as you don't want a chainsaw chain to ever come apart on you.

Question is what tool is best to break up the links on the chain and how to do it best (process)? Also, what is best process to put in the new ones. I'm assuming you just pound the rivets flat when assembled with a ball peen or is there a better way? Thanks - Paul

WoodlandPro Chain Breaker & Spinner Combination
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...landPro-Chain-Breaker-Spinner-Combination.axd

Note: The WoodlandPro Chain & Spinner comes complete with anvils and punches to spin 3/4 pitch saw chain.

View mounting and use instructions (582KB pdf file). -

See more at: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...-Spinner-Combination.axd#sthash.YojqseaV.dpuf

 

[woody 73]

see if this helps you out:

 

[pauls_workshop]

Thanks so far guys. Couple good ways to get a pro-like setup. I was really hoping though for a much cheaper way to do it, more manually, as I probably only have 4-5 links I have to fix up and don't really need to roll my own whole chains at all. Is this simply not advised at all? Or is there a simple manual way to tackle a few links. I have a cobalt drill bit set, so could probably just drill out the pins completely if I needed to to get the old links off the chain. thx- Paul

 

[LB-1911]

The rpm of that chain is?

Go purchase the proper chain.


Edit to add -
It has become obvious that "The rpm of that chain is?" was a poor choice and I should have made a reference to the speed at which the chain travels .

For those so inclined -
Calculating Chain Speed
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_chn_speed.htm

 

[trackwelder]

I'm all for fixing as much as I can, but I would just buy new chains. How many chains do you go through?

 

[pauls_workshop]

The rpm of that chain is?

Go purchase the proper chain.

LB, this was not my question, whether or not you thought I should buy a new chain.

- Paul

 

[LB-1911]

Thanks so far guys. Couple good ways to get a pro-like setup. I was really hoping though for a much cheaper way to do it, more manually, as I probably only have 4-5 links I have to fix up and don't really need to roll my own whole chains at all. Is this simply not advised at all? Or is there a simple manual way to tackle a few links. I have a cobalt drill bit set, so could probably just drill out the pins completely if I needed to to get the old links off the chain. thx- Paul

The rpm of that chain is?

Go purchase the proper chain.

LB, this was not my question, whether or not you thought I should buy a new chain.

- Paul

Better?

 

[pauls_workshop]

I'm all for fixing as much as I can, but I would just buy new chains. How many chains do you go through?

I have lots of chains and saws. Sometimes will hit something metal and break or damage a tooth. Maybe 5-6 teeth a year max. My question is if there is a manual method to fix these or if you really have to buy one of the units mentioned above. The questions here are for people who have repaired the chains themselves before, not those with just opinions on the matter, as we all have those. My scope is small so just on the edge of whether buying a pro type unit would be cost effective or not. I would not use it much. thx- Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

Better?

Not really, no. Have you ever used a chainsaw? Or rebulit chainsaw chains? Some background to your thoughts may be useful. I don't like to throw things away that are perfectly good with one new link. My question is not whether to buy a new chain or not. My question is the best way to handle that one link. thx - Paul

 

[2oolhound]

When I was a faller (15 years or more) I used to buy chain in 100' rolls and make my own. All I used was a 3" long steel plate I got from the saw shop that had a groove in it to support the type of chain I used, and a punch. The steel bar supported the links so they didn't bend when you drove the pins out. You needed to place the bar on something big and heavy but there wasn't much to it. I think I often filed the heads of the pins down so they drove out easier. Then you just peen the new links over. You will need to file the new links (the teeth and rakers) down to match the rest of the chain or they will stick up and grab.

Sorry, all my chainsaw stuff is 500 miles away or I'd snap a picture of these cheap tools. The HF one in the link above used to cost about $300 back in the 70's.

 

[Majordisorder]

Just get one of these. http://ahlbornequipment.com/sawchainanvilandpunchset-forwfp.aspx

 

[rhandwor]

I used to use master links to repair a chain. http://www.ebay.com/ Search chainsaw master links as their are various sizes.

 

[rlitman]

The rpm of that chain is?

Go purchase the proper chain.

Chains do not have an RPM. SFM would be more appropriate. The cog might have an RPM though.

Back to the point, while I have broken and assembled my share of bicycle chains, without the proper tools, I wouldn't try it. With bicycle chains, the tools are usually inexpensive (with some exceptions).

With chainsaw chains, the process is more complicated and requires much more expensive tools to get it done right. Most dealers will have lengths of chain on a roll, and the tools to break and assemble chains on the bench. If I was just looking to fix one or two chains, I'd take them to a dealer that does this sort of stuff. If you're looking to buy chain by the roll and use a lot, then the tools may start to pay for themselves.

 

[woody 73]

Paul Hi the following company has some very nice products, I buy from from time to time and they are very nice to deal with.

Hope this helps you out:

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Chain/Chain-Breakers-Spinners/

 

[Treeman]

Hello Paul,

I can't remember the last time I damaged a chain that I had to replace links on, and when I did I just let our excellent dealer do it for a very nominal price. So, I cannot offer real world experience.

Google repair chain site:www.arboristsite.com[/U][/U][/I] and there is plenty of information there about doing this with minimal tools, i.e. grind the rivet down carefully, punch it out, replace defective links, and peen new pins in.

Best of luck to you.

 

[pauls_workshop]

When I was a faller (15 years or more) I used to buy chain in 100' rolls and make my own. All I used was a 3" long steel plate I got from the saw shop that had a groove in it to support the type of chain I used, and a punch. The steel bar supported the links so they didn't bend when you drove the pins out. You needed to place the bar on something big and heavy but there wasn't much to it. I think I often filed the heads of the pins down so they drove out easier. Then you just peen the new links over. You will need to file the new links (the teeth and rakers) down to match the rest of the chain or they will stick up and grab.

Sorry, all my chainsaw stuff is 500 miles away or I'd snap a picture of these cheap tools. The HF one in the link above used to cost about $300 back in the 70's.

Thanks, excellent informative post! I do all my own sharpening myself so know all about that part. I do chainsaw milling as a hobby. I've used saws about 35 years now, but never any kind of pro. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

Hello Paul,

I can't remember the last time I damaged a chain that I had to replace links on, and when I did I just let our excellent dealer do it for a very nominal price. So, I cannot offer real world experience.

Google repair chain site:www.arboristsite.com[/U][/U][/I] and there is plenty of information there about doing this with minimal tools, i.e. grind the rivet down carefully, punch it out, replace defective links, and peen new pins in.

Best of luck to you.

Thanks Treeman. I'm on Arborsite too, but wanted to ask here on the tool side of it all. I hang out in the milling section there for now. Yes, could be easier to find a local person set up to do it and have at it, I just don't know any at the moment or have a local dealer I've done anything with yet. - Paul

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

I'd buy this if i didn't already have one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grandberg-M...427084?hash=item33b6b1a34c:g:hsAAAOSw5HJXK1KD

They've been around forever, so $20-30 seems reasonable used.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Just get one of these. http://ahlbornequipment.com/sawchainanvilandpunchset-forwfp.aspx

Very interesting! Manual simple process I was thinking of! - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

I used to use master links to repair a chain. http://www.ebay.com/ Search chainsaw master links as their are various sizes.

Yes, that is basically what I got for the repair, the master links and rivets/pins. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

I'd buy this if i didn't already have one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grandberg-M...427084?hash=item33b6b1a34c:g:hsAAAOSw5HJXK1KD

They've been around forever, so $20-30 seems reasonable used.

Thanks, also very interesting! Now how does it work in practice since you've used it for along time? Good for what I'm talking about? Any issues? thx- Paul

 

[50cal]

I just bought a new saw Stihl 241 16 inch bar. Picked up a extra chain no more than 25.00 . I would feel safer with a factory made chain than a cobbled mess.

 

[48fordnut]

I use a cut off wheel to grind the head down then a punch to knock the pin out. Works for me, and hundreds others. Not cobbled at all.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Thanks, also very interesting! Now how does it work in practice since you've used it for along time? Good for what I'm talking about? Any issues? thx- Paul

Its as simple as a Vice Grip, and there are no parts to become separated or lost. If I had yards of chain to build, I'd go for one of the bench mount contraptions.
If you look real close at the spun rivets, you can tell they are not OEM, but it's just cosmetic.
I have an 80CC Husky with a 32" bar, and no issues. Well, maybe I am running out of trees.

http://www.granberg.com/content/instructions-using-break-n-mend-tool

some tips and comentary http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-break-n-mend-can-it-work.115165/

 

[pauls_workshop]

I just bought a new saw Stihl 241 16 inch bar. Picked up a extra chain no more than 25.00 . I would feel safer with a factory made chain than a cobbled mess.

50, you share the opinion of others up above. That isn't what I'm asking for here though - I don't need opinions. This topic isn't for you. Also, I think your Stihl saw is very *cute*. My saws can cut it in half in about 10 seconds. thx- Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

I use a cut off wheel to grind the head down then a punch to knock the pin out. Works for me, and hundreds others. Not cobbled at all.

Thanks! I'm sure I could use my dremel to grind the end safely like that. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

Its as simple as a Vice Grip, and there are no parts to become separated or lost. If I had yards of chain to build, I'd go for one of the bench mount contraptions.
If you look real close at the spun rivets, you can tell they are not OEM, but it's just cosmetic.
I have an 80CC Husky with a 32" bar, and no issues. Well, maybe I am running out of trees.

http://www.granberg.com/content/instructions-using-break-n-mend-tool

some tips and comentary http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-break-n-mend-can-it-work.115165/

Thanks! I just got an older Echo CS-8000 at 80.7 cc with a 32" bar too for milling. I'm liking 80cc class saws! Great help today my friend! - Paul

 

[bob15]

Thanks! I just got an older Echo CS-8000 at 80.7 cc with a 32" bar too for milling. I'm liking 80cc class saws! Great help today my friend! - Paul

The 80cc class of saw is very nice......have several myself.....all Mac's. Wait until you get bored of it and jump to the 120+cc class. That's when the fun begins.

Last week I cut up a red oak that was 48" at the base and still 40" across at 20 feet up the trunk. Used a McCulloch SP-125 and a 42" roller nose and a full skip chain. Six truckloads of firewood on just that piece alone.

As for a chain break and spinner, i would go with a Tecomec. I've had mine 20 years without any issues. Made a lot of chain with it. I think watching videos on how to make it would be the best "class" without actually seeing it done in person.

 

[50cal]

50, you share the opinion of others up above. That isn't what I'm asking for here though - I don't need opinions. This topic isn't for you. Also, I think your Stihl saw is very *cute*. My saws can cut it in half in about 10 seconds. thx- Paul

So you have a high torque saw with a worn out chain and you going to fix it with a vice grip and a hammer ? Gorilla brand duct tape is pretty good stuff !!!

 

[brianh]

Thanks! I just got an older Echo CS-8000 at 80.7 cc with a 32" bar too for milling. I'm liking 80cc class saws! Great help today my friend! - Paul

I don't have any info on splicing the chain but if you are going to mill try a top angle of 5 degrees the standard crosscut 30 degree angle cuts slow and rough.

I buy ripping chain at baileys it comes ground at ten when it gets dull I regrind to 5 its faster. I use a Stihl 660 a 92 cc saw, I use a 28 inch bar for most of what I mill using the Alaskan small log mill attachment.

I was thinking of buying a chain spinner and breaker, baileys has good prices on loops but bulk rolls get a bit cheaper.

I have snapped a few chains at load they just drop, lots of opinions from a few that most likely don't use a saw much. Or at all like the
"what rpm is it rated for" comment

Thats a guy you want to get some advise from

 

[trackwelder]

50, you share the opinion of others up above. That isn't what I'm asking for here though - I don't need opinions. This topic isn't for you. Also, I think your Stihl saw is very *cute*. My saws can cut it in half in about 10 seconds. thx- Paul

Man you sure are hung up on getting just and only what you want to hear.

The Hydro axe I run at work will cut your saw apart in 1 second

 

[bob15]

I don't have any info on splicing the chain but if you are going to mill try a top angle of 5 degrees the standard crosscut 30 degree angle cuts slow and rough.

I buy ripping chain at baileys it comes ground at ten when it gets dull I regrind to 5 its faster. I use a Stihl 660 a 92 cc saw, I use a 28 inch bar for most of what I mill using the Alaskan small log mill attachment.

I was thinking of buying a chain spinner and breaker, baileys has good prices on loops but bulk rolls get a bit cheaper.

I have snapped a few chains at load they just drop, lots of opinions from a few that most likely don't use a saw much. Or at all like the
"what rpm is it rated for" comment

Thats a guy you want to get some advise from

The next time you need to buy rolls of chain try here: http://www.psep.biz/store/chainsaw_chains.htm

I find PSEP to be much cheaper than Bailey's (about $55.00 for a 100ft roll of Oregon 72LGX), and when you tack on shipping, Pat's really gets cheaper because they have a flat rate of eight bucks..

 

[brianh]

The next time you need to buy rolls of chain try here: http://www.psep.biz/store/chainsaw_chains.htm

I find PSEP to be much cheaper than Bailey's (about $55.00 for a 100ft roll of Oregon 72LGX), and when you tack on shipping, Pat's really gets cheaper because they have a flat rate of eight bucks..

Bob. Thanks for the info I will give them a try next order.

 

[Zaylor]

http://granberg.com/product/break-n-mend

http://www.granberg.com/content/instructions-using-break-n-mend-tool

 

[L.Cheapo]

When I worked in an outdoor power equipment shop, the only chain we stocked was on rolls. Over the 6 years I worked there, I probably made a thousand of them. Sharpened magnitudes more.

We had all professional Oregon equipment, powered sharpener with various wheels, chain breaker, and rivet spinner. It takes some practice to get it just right. I bent my fair share of links breaking a length of chain off the roll. I also made some rivets too tight, or not tight enough. I was just a teenager, and was fortunate enough to have a master mechanic to supervise me and check my work, and show me what I did wrong. There is definitely a learning curve, even with top notch equipment.

In all those chains over all those years, I never repaired a chain.

Personally, I'd just buy a new one, unless I had a roll of chain, all the proper tools, experience, and too much time on my hands.

 

[stihlntime]

Our shop spins them up for folks for three bucks w chain plus .50 cents a link. Just go to a local shop.

 

[50cal]

When I worked in an outdoor power equipment shop, the only chain we stocked was on rolls. Over the 6 years I worked there, I probably made a thousand of them. Sharpened magnitudes more.

We had all professional Oregon equipment, powered sharpener with various wheels, chain breaker, and rivet spinner. It takes some practice to get it just right. I bent my fair share of links breaking a length of chain off the roll. I also made some rivets too tight, or not tight enough. I was just a teenager, and was fortunate enough to have a master mechanic to supervise me and check my work, and show me what I did wrong. There is definitely a learning curve, even with top notch equipment.

In all those chains over all those years, I never repaired a chain.

Personally, I'd just buy a new one, unless I had a roll of chain, all the proper tools, experience, and too much time on my hands.

Bravo, there is a reason or two why 99% of shops wont repair a chain. They have been pointed out in previous posts so I wont offer up my opinion.