Chainsaw Chain Repair Tool/Process!

[Finky198]

Same here ^^^ In my 10+ years of tree work. I have never once myself or any one I know in the biz ever repaired a damaged chain that's just and accident waiting to happen. Those tools are meant to take a roll of new chain and turn it into loops of a needed size. Which in turn is just cheaper in bulk...

OP That fact that your even thinking about this. makes me wonder if you should even own a saw of the size. As well as how you call out someone on there use of a smaller saw to whom is most likely much more safe and level headed then yourself. And is also concerned for your safety. Yet you mock them.

I hope you have your chaps on when your repaired chain comes flying off, or do you not think there necessary either...

 

[pauls_workshop]

Man you sure are hung up on getting just and only what you want to hear.

The Hydro axe I run at work will cut your saw apart in 1 second

50, I must admit my big Echo will not compete with your hydro axe! You win!

After two posts in the first 12 replies to go buy another chain, I may lose patience on that matter. Some great information in this thread so far though for those like me who are DIY types and mechanically inclined to fix almost anything. Peace. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

Same here ^^^ In my 10+ years of tree work. I have never once myself or any one I know in the biz ever repaired a damaged chain that's just and accident waiting to happen. Those tools are meant to take a roll of new chain and turn it into loops of a needed size. Which in turn is just cheaper in bulk...

OP That fact that your even thinking about this. makes me wonder if you should even own a saw of the size. As well as how you call out someone on there use of a smaller saw to whom is most likely much more safe and level headed then yourself. And is also concerned for your safety. Yet you mock them.

I hope you have your chaps on when your repaired chain comes flying off, or do you not think there necessary either...

Hey Finky, how about we meet out back behind the Garage Journal and settle this like men rather than your sneaky attack above? You say I challenge someone yet you insult me and my capabilities multiple times in your first post here? Go jump in a lake. If you did not actually read above, I MILL with chainsaws, sometimes with an Alaskan Mill, sometimes FREEHAND. I've used saws 35 years. I have about 10 of them. I could TEACH classes on use of saws safely. I also sharpen my own chains and rakers to razor sharp, better than a new chain, BY HAND. If you are concerned about my skills, I am concerned abour your sanity and ability to get along with others you just met. Good day. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

The 80cc class of saw is very nice......have several myself.....all Mac's. Wait until you get bored of it and jump to the 120+cc class. That's when the fun begins.

Last week I cut up a red oak that was 48" at the base and still 40" across at 20 feet up the trunk. Used a McCulloch SP-125 and a 42" roller nose and a full skip chain. Six truckloads of firewood on just that piece alone.

As for a chain break and spinner, i would go with a Tecomec. I've had mine 20 years without any issues. Made a lot of chain with it. I think watching videos on how to make it would be the best "class" without actually seeing it done in person.

I have a bunch of old Macs too I inherited from my dad. I was using a mini-Mac when I was 10 years old with him cutting firewood for survival. Biggest Mac I have though is a ProMac 650 at 60cc. That red oak sounds impressive!!! I will check out the Tecomec. I'm not sure I need a pro setup though to make my own chains, just a few small repairs. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

Our shop spins them up for folks for three bucks w chain plus .50 cents a link. Just go to a local shop.

That's really cheap. Certainly an option, but around here not so cheap. I like to do things myself though and learn how to do something new at least once a month. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

So you have a high torque saw with a worn out chain and you going to fix it with a vice grip and a hammer ? Gorilla brand duct tape is pretty good stuff !!!

I do prefer Gorilla tape now over any other brand of duct tape - great stuff and made in USA!

My chains aren't worn out, just took out a few links hitting metal. I don't use worn out chains. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

I don't have any info on splicing the chain but if you are going to mill try a top angle of 5 degrees the standard crosscut 30 degree angle cuts slow and rough.

I buy ripping chain at baileys it comes ground at ten when it gets dull I regrind to 5 its faster. I use a Stihl 660 a 92 cc saw, I use a 28 inch bar for most of what I mill using the Alaskan small log mill attachment.

I was thinking of buying a chain spinner and breaker, baileys has good prices on loops but bulk rolls get a bit cheaper.

I have snapped a few chains at load they just drop, lots of opinions from a few that most likely don't use a saw much. Or at all like the
"what rpm is it rated for" comment

Thats a guy you want to get some advise from

Hi Brian, thanks for your post! Yes, I've been milling 3 years now but I found much much cheaper to just buy a regular chain and then as it wears in, regrind it to be a milling chain. I've read Madoff's book and follow much of his practice. I like more like 2 degrees vs 10 or 8 or 5. Works even better for milling. I hand grind my own teeth and rakers using a dremel or files. Also, you may want to learn about progressive raker angles off the milling section of Arboristsite. Makes a HUGE difference when milling. I've only recently started doing it and it is amazing. I used a few Carlton ripping chains at 8 degrees and found doing it my own works better than the Carlton new. I've also broken chains before and like you they generally fall forward and down and just stop. Full personal protection is a must always though. I use full body chainsaw overalls, not just chaps, and a full polycarbonite face shield always and of course hearing protection/helmet when cutting the trees.

I suspect your 660 would beat my new old echo cs-8000, but it would be a good video test between the two. I like the echo's alot. I have a cs-590 also at 60 cc I was milling with last year. That is incredible for 60cc size and a best buy for sure of all brands. I only have one Stihl - an old 011. I've had nothing but problems with it, starting, running well, or strong. That's a project saw for me when I have the time to work on it more. My old Mini-Macs would outcut that as it is by about 5x and they are much smaller cc saws. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

The next time you need to buy rolls of chain try here: http://www.psep.biz/store/chainsaw_chains.htm

I find PSEP to be much cheaper than Bailey's (about $55.00 for a 100ft roll of Oregon 72LGX), and when you tack on shipping, Pat's really gets cheaper because they have a flat rate of eight bucks..

Thanks Bob, great to know new sources. If I do want to "roll my own" later on, I will check them out first. - Paul

 

[pauls_workshop]

When I worked in an outdoor power equipment shop, the only chain we stocked was on rolls. Over the 6 years I worked there, I probably made a thousand of them. Sharpened magnitudes more.

We had all professional Oregon equipment, powered sharpener with various wheels, chain breaker, and rivet spinner. It takes some practice to get it just right. I bent my fair share of links breaking a length of chain off the roll. I also made some rivets too tight, or not tight enough. I was just a teenager, and was fortunate enough to have a master mechanic to supervise me and check my work, and show me what I did wrong. There is definitely a learning curve, even with top notch equipment.

In all those chains over all those years, I never repaired a chain.

Personally, I'd just buy a new one, unless I had a roll of chain, all the proper tools, experience, and too much time on my hands.

Thanks for your post Mr. Cheapo. I do like your name here and can relate well to it !

Good information to consider. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and fix small engines as a hobby too. If I botch it up, I can always just take it apart again and go to a shop with it. As you said above too, shops can also mess these up readily unless very good using their equipment. I am the type to rather do things myself and trust "myself" to get things right rather than trusting others to do it wrong. I've seen lots of that in the past. This I think I can do with a little practice. Pros I think would not bother with repairs and just buy a new chain as time is money for them, and most homeowners certainly should NOT try repairing or even sharpening their own chains, but that is not what this thread is about. Pros can be Pros. No problems with that. - Paul

 

[PBCampbell]

For milling I could see trying to mend chain. I've never done it or knew anyone who did, but I've read it's hard on chain. My concern would be getting the new cutters equal to the rest. I could see this as a time consuming exercise if one didn't have a chain grinder. When all is said and done I have doubts about the economics of mending chains.

 

[Ryan]

Arguing over chainsaw repair on the internet? Really fellas? Have ya come to this?